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Chevy Silverado: Problems & Solutions
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You can check the negative battery connection - by taking a jumper cable and placing it on the negative battery terminal - then attach the other end to the engine block - if the truck starts then you know the negative cable has a problem - could be the connection at the battery, or to the engine - or maybe the whole cable could be bad.
Normally when you jump start an engine you hook the positive battery post on both vehicles together with the first cable - then hook the second cable to the negative batter terminal on the car that is running - and then hook the other end to the car engine of then vehicle that will not start on its own.
If this is how you hooked the jumpers up and the engine started with no problem - then I think your positive cable must be good.
Thanks for the post.. I will check this tomorrow
When in auto-trac - I can turn with no problem - it does not matter what the road surface is - dry concrete - wet - snow - mud.
In 4 wheel high I can feel a slight difference if on a dry surface - but the truck still turns without much of a problem - that is what the differential is for - that is why it is called a DIFFERENTIAL - it allows one wheel (the outside one) to roll faster than the inside wheel when you go around a corner. It allows a differential between the wheel speeds.
If I am on dirt or snow or in the mud - even if I am in 4 wheel low the truck turns with no problem - sure I can tell I am in 4 wheel drive - it take a little more power to get going - THAT IS NORMAL.
If you need to shift your 4x4 out of 4 wheel drive every time you go around a corner - if you are driving on snow - ice - dirt - mud - gravel - then something is wrong with your truck.
1. VIN# 1GCEC19V45Z297374
I have an 05 Silverado with a 4800 engine equipped with trailer tow package.
Two weeks ago, while driving I noticed the engine temp gauge drop to zero-cold. Heat was still coming out of the heater, and vehicle ran well in all respects. A week later the Check Engine light came on.
An appointment was made at the dealer and on the way over, the heat gauge worked fine (from start up]. After being inoperative for 2 weeks, the temp indicator resumed working. The mechanic put the scann tool on it, and could read no problems. He reset the CE light. I was not happy about leaving it, as I thought the fault would return. A new temp probe for the engine was ordered and an appointment was made to install.
When I went back they said they had a Chevrolet car with the same engine come in, with the same problem. (temp gauge to zero and some time later CE light came on.) So they used my ordered probe in his car and ordered me another.
In the meantime the mechanic thought this to be unusual for same symptoms on 2 vehicles, so he contacted higher authority, and they said that there was a temperature switch in the block heater cord and if it were removed it would cause this problem.
I had removed the -18C. degree switch incorporated into the plug, as I have a timer for heater and I think -18 (0F ) is far to cold and a heater is needed to prevent wear associated with cold start up.
The logic, as I was told it, is as follows.
When the engine has been plugged in, the block is warm. The temperature sensor in the intake manifold senses cold. [Block warm, manifold cold]. This, to the computer is an abnormal situation. This causes confusion to the computer, and the effect renders the temperature gauge inoperative, followed, some time later, by check engine light. The inoperative engine temp gauge is sensed by computer as giving trouble and engine control is taken over by the manifold sensor. The abnormality results in the check engine light coming on a time later.
Hence this is why engine ran well.
As I was told it, the cold weather settled into Canada first in the west. Many people felt as I do, & the -18 degree C (0F) switch was removed by many owners. This problem surfaced there first and has worked its way east, reports resulted as the cold weather worked its way east. This all sounds like a stretch to me, The dealer sounds as confused as I. In fact I feel sorry for him to have to deal on a daily basis problems like this.
However my question is this.
If all the above is true, where a warm block and cold intake causes engine check light to come on, how about a cold bout of -19 for a few days running. and engine is plugged in.The -18 degree switch is closed activating block heater and the intake manifold is cold. Would not an engine check light be a daily occurrence? I have no idea. Perhaps someone has the answer.
The GM lady on the phone went ballistic, saying I was going to void my warranty. It sounded like my grade three teacher.
My personal opinion is that GM made some kind of engineering error and has tried to correct it with this silly 0 F switch. A real back yard approach I think.
Is this the tall tale of 2005 and I the victim?
What is your opinion here?
...........................................................
Now if anyone can tell me how to fix the lights coming on, and going off, a dome light that goes out just when you need it. Headlights I cannot shut off that lights up my neighbours bed room as I turn into lane, A radio that stops when you open the door that I can not listen to while around the truck unless the passenger door is open. That incessant key in ignition warning, I will be eternally grateful.
Thanks a lot.
I suspected there might be a differential problem in the front. If the rear differential had a problem I would have had a problem in 2 wheel drive. I emailed Chevrolet last Thursday and have a conference call appointment with a representive Monday morning. Also my dealers service manager
wants me to bring the truck in for them to check after I talk to the chevy rep.
Thanks again
Bowdash
Another thing, do the headlights pop out somehow to change the bulbs, or do you have to remove the batteries.
SNOKING
I have a 2005 1500 crew cab, 8500 miles. A clunking noise (you could feel it also) just started last week when driving over bumps, etc. around the driver location. Took it to the dealer and they knew exactly what the problem was and fixed it right away. They told me they replaced an intermediate steering shaft.
I also notice a different clunk when the auto transmission shifts to 3rd gear at times. Will probably take it in for that also (that's why I'm scanning on Edmunds this eve).
(C/S gets a bump at 1/2 or 2/3 upshift. Occurs intermittent. Ran Diagnostic check for codes. None found. Reflashed Powertrain Control Module with latest calibrations.)
Don't understand what the above means and I have only driven a few miles since but so far no bumps on shifting. Should have asked but was so interested in my primary problem that I didn't read the bump report on the warranty
paper work until I got home. If the shift bumps don't start again I guess it dosen't really matter. Hope your dealer can take care of your shift noise.
The blower fan works great now.. Thanks again.
BTW several years ago I test drove a new S-10 4X4 blazer with the Z off road package. It had Bilstein heavy duty shocks on it, big 31X10.5 tires and the ride was awful! I never rode in a new vehicle that rode so harsh! Regular shock absorbers and smaller tires would no doubt improve the ride quite a bit.
The term "shock absorber" is somewhat misleading. They are actaully shock dampeners, becuase they do not absorb the shock at all. This is done by the springs or torsion bars. Sock absorbers merely slow down the spring or torsion bar oscillations. If the shock absorbers are very stiff, they allow less spring or torsion bar movement and cause quicker rebound, thus causing a stiffer, more jarring ride.
I replaced the stock shocks with Bilstein Heavy Duty - I also replaced the stock Firestone Wilderness 265 75 16 (P rated car tires) tires for 285 75 16 load range D.
After these changes the ride is much stiffer - but that is OK with me - when empty it rides like a truck!
When I have a load in the bed - or when I tow IMO the ride and handling is better than stock. The truck also corners much better - not as much body roll.
I run 33/30 PSI front/rear empty & the ride is OK. When hauling a load or towing I normally run 40-50 PSI (tires are rated to 65PSI.
I am currently at 130k miles and I regularly flush my tranny. It is flushed about every 25 k in miles. I baby the truck. I am the original owner and give it nothing but the best. Oil is changed every 2000 miles with full synthetic oil and i even change the oil filter in between oil changes to ensure top filtration.
The tranny thing just started at about 125k miles, out of no where. I pull a heavy load with the truck on camping trips. I pull my 5th wheel and boat behind the 5th wheel. Total weight is about 17,000 lbs. Usually forget all that is behind me as it flys down the road.
Anyone with a fix for this, would help me sleep easier. Heading for Alaska in the next month or so and would love to have this things behind me.
Thanks in advance.
He tried to get a vehicle inspection (emissions passed), but the state computer (N.C.) says that the transmission is slipping. And that's far from the truth, since it shifts hard from 1st to 2nd, & 3rd. He has the button in the middle of the shifting arm. I would love to possibly replace the trans computer with one that does not use the button for overdrive.
For all the Chevy lovers here, I'm not going to run down this truck, but I won't give you my personal opinion of it either. I'm a Chevy owner also, with a 93 3500 work truck, but this 99 Silverado is just a pain in my neck, and a pain in my brothers finances.
My 1987 260E Mercedes-Benz was easier to troubleshoot and restore than dealing with this truck. So if anyone has info that will allow me to replace the trans control unit with one that works when you put it in "D" then I would appreciate hearing from you.
Thanks for your time.
Archer
I think all Chevy truck owners (here and elsewhere) should form a class-action lawsuit against GM, and all it takes is one owner to step forward, and the rest will follow. Let me know if you want to do something like this, and I'll be glad to assist you with a website and other avenues that may get you some results that you deserve. I could not imagine spending $40K for a vehicle that has problems, so I can understand your frustration, and I realize that you had no clue, like my brother, that you would have problems down the road.
The dealership is nothing other than a rip off, and I call them "Stealerships" since they replace parts and you have the same problem. I'm a mechanic and not a parts changer, and it makes me angry at GM because I have to deal with this 99 Silverado, which has had trans problems for over two years. One reading said "Speed Shift Sensor".....well that didn't do it....another reading said electronic solinoids in the trans, well that didn't fix it either.
Normal to GM is sending out service bullitins to calm the customers down, so there won't be a class-action lawsuit.
If you want to file a complaint against GM, go to www.ripoffreport.com and I'm sure you will find others that have your same issue...maybe you can mention the dealer's name and location where you purchased your truck. I think it's a shame that you have problems...and I bet you have under 100K miles, right?
Good luck, and let me know if I can help you.
Thanks,
Archer
Has anyone else experienced this? Is that the way it is or is there something wrong with the truck? Are there any options for smoothing out the ride without sacraficing its towing and offroad abilities? I do light offroad activities, and I haul a bass boat frequently.
Thanks
I did as you requested. I have a 2003, 1500, 4X4 Crew. When I turned the wheel side to side the first time, it was smooth. After I did it a couple times it started to bind a little, but quit as I took some pressure (before I started to roll) off the brake. I've never noticed it before, so I don't think it has himdered my ability to park in tight quarters (with this truck everthing seem to be tight), although my driving style is such that I rarely find my self turning the wheel while at a dead stop. Some of what you are talking about may be normal, but I'm not woried about it. In the future, if the dealer ever tells you that something is normal, then make him let you test drive another vehicle. If it is truly "normal", then they should all do it.
Hope this helps
I have a 95 chevy silverado and i have a recurring coolant leak from the top of the pump housing where the hose connects. I have had this replaced with the same fitting three times now and i was wondering if there was an alternate solution.
Thanks
Tana109
You should try turning the steering wheel from lock to lock on a 16,000 lb curb weight military deuce and a half (2.5 ton 6X6) WITHOUT POWER STEERING when the truck is stopped on a paved street. Then you would know what hard steering is all about.
While the deuce and a half was not a real good example, it goes to prove how much stress is placed on the system and how difficult it is to turn while not moving......
It tends to give away my age but for quite a few years after I started driving the only ones with power steering were rich folks and city-slickers!!! The rest of us poor folks learned the easy way to do it and it's ingrained in me now.... :P
The dealer basicly said "too bad" so I called the customer
support line and filed a complaint stating to them that I do not tow anything and I take care and baby my gm vhiecles
(own 4 of them now, all bought brand new from this dealer)
After a couple of days I recieved a phone call and they said that they could do nothing for me because my warrenty
was up. so I told them that they and GM could go and F...
themselves and that I would never ever buy another GM product as long as I live (had 11 new GM cars since 1988)
and this is how they treat thier loyal customers.
Well luckily my good friend is a transmission rebuild man
and for only $1000.00 I had my trans completely rebuilt
with heavy duty parts and lifetime warrenty. But my next
vehicle sorry to say wont be a GM. Oh ya now at 75k my
speedometer is pegged at 120mph , boy I wonder how much that will cost me to get fixed since I have read in the
forum that this is a common problem.
Towed it to the nearest dealership a (Buick dealership)
Next day got a call "all fixed" the bill $253.00.
for what you ask? A new distributor and rotor.
My 1500 silverado only had 58k
the week before I replaced the plugs with GM platinum.
I paid the bill but was pissed off to find out that a 2003
still had a distributor cap and rotor and not a coil pack
sure looks like a coil pack tucked and hidden behind the air intake plumbing. should have had a better look before I sent it to the dealer but i was not home when it would not start cause I would have replaced the cap and rotor
myself. After receiving the old parts and examining them
I noticed water and lots of corrosion in the cap.
About 4 months latter a recieved a recall letter from GM
stating that the A/C hose above the distributor cap was leaking condensation down on the cap and causing a "no start problem". Luckily I saved the receipt, sent it in got a check back for $253.00.
And they wanted me to bring it back for proper recall repair. Well they replaced the cap and rotor again, they put a foam absorbing cover on the A/C hose and said they put a vent screen on the new distributor cap, so any water
could evaporate if it got in the cap again.
Good luck hope this helps
Did you find a fix for this yet?
any info greatly appreciated.
thanks , NORTHERN