Hello all. I am looking to buy a 3 series and would love to get a 2011 model if I can get the right price. What discounts are being offered right now? Also , is there a way to check inventory in the local BMW dealers? I live in Detroit.
Today I test drove a 328xDrive and it had done 3800 miles. It had Premium package, Value package, Sirius for 1 year, Heated steering. The dealer offered it to me for 34900 + Tax...total 37400. Looking at the prices on this forum, 33k is the norm for this set of options. Am I missing something? The dealer was also saying that he's running out of the 2011 models very fast. Will I be too late if I am looking to buy in March?
Was in the market for a 3 series and I was told the 2012's should be hitting the dealers in March with Demos arriving in the first week of Feb. With similar equipment the 2012's would be priced $2500 more then the outgoing model Plus, I am sure the dealers are not going to budge too much off the MSRP soo...
I ended up buying a 2011 328i with premium pkg and Navigation with MSRP= $40,675 for $34,997 last day of Jan 2012. Had to pull the trigger since the color combo i was interested in was the last available within 100 mile radius Just wondering if anyone is seeing a better deal recently?
i bought on jan.30th msrp close to 40k and get it $33,800+all other stuff: premium+heated seat, silver + grey. edmunds says invoice is $36,000. so the cost is 33,500 after 2500 incentive. did not get any other service or extra dime on anything.
The car price in this area is higher in general than the big cities and the quote from other vendors in the area(within 100miles there are 5 dealers total) are much worse than this one. so i jumped.
so far its ok but when i turn sharply, there are sounds a small metal/screw things on the back go left and right. need bring into the deal to check and fix that.
otherwise pretty good.
i guess since bmw is one of the hardest to negotiate so anything below invoice shld be pretty good. i asked the sales and he said when 2012 model comes in, there will be no negotiation.
I figured i could probably get another $500 off the price if i waited a little more when the 2012 cars hit the dealers, but then I would have to get the colors and the options that were left. So it was easy. This one was MSRP= 40,675 and SP= 34,997+tax+ registration+ $80(junk fee). BMW finance also has the 0.9% financing for 60months which is amazing!
Hey guys, I'm looking to get a 2008 M3 coupe fully loaded with less than 40k miles. Anyone have any ideas what these cars are going for at dealer auctions? Also what is a fair price to pay for through private party vs dealer? I am seeing prices from $28k to over $50k. KBB value is in the mid $30k-45k.
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I see that a lot of vehicles on BMW CPO website end in various figures, such as $xx,991 $xx,992 $xx,993 $xx,994 $xx,995
I assume the last three digits signify how long they have had the car, and how many times the price has been reduced?
Is there a formula / rule to figure out when the price was reduced and when it may be reduced again if it doesn't sell.
Basically if it's $xx,991 does that mean it's been reduced a couple of times and they are more likely to negotiate or I can wait a little while for further reduction?
Those are just dealers trying to push their units up to the top of the search, without actually lowering prices..
When you list by price, low to high, their units come up first, instead of those that price by xx,999
BMW CPO cars are like any other used car, except they come with an extended warranty and supposedly are inspected and held to certain standards, and brought up to those standards or rejected, if found lacking..
That warranty adds cost to the dealer, and is reflected in the price... Pricing is no different than any other used car. The dealer sets the asking price and you have to negotiate for your best deal.
Here is some information from a BMW salesperson in the Bay Area regarding the recently released 2012 BMW 3 series - supply of the 335 is very low - better deals available on the 328 - you have to custom order the specific car that you want (i.e., the cars are not available in inventory) - if you custom order a car it will take 2 months to arrive
I'm in the Bay Area and was quoted the following on a 2012 228i 36 mo/15K miles per yr lease. I haven't seen the milage penalty charge before, can anyone verify is this is a decent deal? It appears high to me.
Thanks!
MSRP 44.195 Milage penalty 1,800 Residual 62% Lease end value 25,600 Sell price 41,800 + gap insurance of 925 = total cap cost of $42,725
608.91 + 50.24 (tax) = 659.15 payment.
Sec deposit $2 tot initial fees $45 tot annual fees $369 (not sure what this is?)
They came back and told me they made a mistake on the lease payment (I'm not sure if they did or just gave me new numbers because I told them it was too high). MF was .00195,
Price is:
15k miles is 608.82 12k miles is 584.11
I don't want to pay for gap insurance, can I opt out of that?
The MONEY FACTOR of 0.00195 is too high. It means that the INTEREST RATE is 4.68% (INTEREST RATE = MONEY FACTOR multiplied by 2400). In an era of zero interest rates why is BMW charging 4.68%?
The variables that are used to calculate LEASE PAYMENT are 1. CAPITALIZED COST (i.e., the price that you negotiate, including fees such as gap insurance, in your case it is 42,725) 2. RESIDUAL (i.e., the price at the end of the lease, calculated by multiplying the negotiated price by the RESIDUAL PERCENT which BMW determines) 3. DOWN PAYMENT (i.e., any amount you pay to reduce the amount that you are "financing"... I am putting "financing" within quotation marks because you are not really financing a purchase and instead "renting for a period" such as 36 months) 4. MONEY FACTOR (i.e., the annual interest rate divided by 2400)
Here is a link that will help you calculate the LEASE PAYMENT
My recommendation is to negotiate a lower CAPITALIZED COST since they are unlikely to lower the other variables. One strategy you may want to use is to first ask to reduce the money factor saying that "with interest rates near zero why are you charging me 4.68%". Try to get an interest rate close to zero, such as 0.5 % (half a percent). Then try to get them to increase the RESIDUAL by saying that "BMWs hold their values well and so I feel that the residual should be at least 75%". Finally, ask for a lower CAPITALIZED COST. This is the variable that the dealer CAN reduce.
Your goal should be to pay less than $400 per month with ZERO down. Actually I would not pay more than $375 ... but that's because I negotiate hard and if I do not get what I want I walk away from the deal
car_man (or any others), do you have any idea what offer might replace the current 328xi 33 month lease deal? I am interested in the current offer but don't need the car for another 5 weeks so am not really in a hurry. I have a dealer offering what I think is a pretty good deal on the exact car I want, but I only want to pull the trigger if this deal is going away and won't be replaced. Does it even matter if there is a formal deal that BMW is offering? As far as I can tell the money factor and residuals are nothing special, and the selling price is dictated by market demand/negotiation, so the biggest thing that could disappear would be any BMW-subsidized cap cost reduction, right? What are the odds that deals on the 2011 328xi will get worse in March with the new 2012's continuing to roll in? Seems low, but I'm not an expert....
FWIW, this is the deal I have on the table:
MSRP: ~ $42.5k Selling Price: ~35k Additional cap cost reduction: $2.5k I do not know the residual or money factor specifically but with this combination of other inputs and a $3k down payment the pretax monthly payment was $360 (this would imply a 50% residual with a .00195 money factor if my math is correct).
Is this a deal worth jumping on before the current offer expires? Is a better deal likely to replace it on March 1? Is the offer "deadline" meaningless and the dealer would be willing to make this same deal March 1 regardless of what special offers BMW is advertising?
Sorry for all the questions - I have never leased a car and never really paid attention to advertised deals so don't know how to proceed.
Since they have offered you a price ($360 per mo) here is what it means: - you have an "anchor" for the price (i.e., you have some idea of the lease payment) - the seller CAN go lower (this is obvious because that's how businesses and people operate ... for example when you set the price for something that you are willing to sell you will have a range in mind and you will start at the high end of the price and then keep negotiating till the price hits a "floor" below which you will not drop the price. You should try to find out the floor price for the car)
I ran the numbers using the calculator here http://www.carloancalculator.me/lease-calculator/ and it seems that you are basically financing about $9,500 (32500 - 3K downpayment - 20K residual) at 4.68%.. What this also means is that you are "renting" a car for 3 years and paying a price of $12.5K. This is an ok price if the interest rate were lower.
Let's look at this deal - you are prepared to drive an OLDER MODEL BMW for 3 more years. In other words this car, which is already an outdated model, will get more and more outdated every day right until you have to return it to the dealer. This car should not be worth 12.5K. I would pay, in today's current dollars, at most 10K to lease it.
My recommendation is to go for a lower monthly payment, which you can arrive at by negotiating one or more of the following
If you let the deadline of Feb 29 slip and then come back at the end of March the seller is UNLIKELY to give you the same or better deal.
So, here is your best bet: late in the evening on Feb 29 you show up at the dealer PREPARED TO BUY IF YOU GET THE RIGHT PRICE. Then you ask for a monthly payment of $280 AFTER TAXES. In your mind you should have a "ceiling price" which would be the MAXIMUM that you would be willing to pay. Do not offer any more than the 3K downpayment. Then, if the car dealer does not give in to your ceiling price you should walk away and NEVER go back to that dealer.
I would recommend that you pay maximum of $300 per month including taxes.
Good luck and I hope you get the $300/month price.
WOW.. I thought your earlier reply to Jenn was the worst post I had ever seen on this forum until this latest one somehow trumped it. Do you know anything about leasing at all? The advice you are giving is TERRIBLE and unrealistic. You either have no idea what you are talking about, or are trying to sabotage negotiations on purpose. $300 after tax for a brand new $42K BMW? Maybe with $7000 down. You are lucky to lease an altima for that price. Not to mention if you knew what you were talking about you would be telling people to negotiate a lease with ZERO down, to protect against losing a large down payment in the event of an accident.
Do you realize that money factors and residual values are set by the manufacturer and can not be negotiated lower than a base rate? Sure some dealers may mark up the money factor for extra profit, but you don't have a chance in hell at getting a dealer to reduce it below what is set by BMWFS just because you negotiate hard. You also can't choose your own residual based on what you think a BMW will be worth in 3 years.
Please stop littering this forum with advice that belongs on the trash heap. Even if your uncle owned a BMW dealership you would be laughed at asking for a 75% residual and .5% interest on a lease.
If the selling price is 35K, then it has the potential to be a great deal! as long as the dealer doesn’t slip in something here and there at closing. If I had read your post yesterday, I could have done much better Here's the lease I just signed. my very first lease ever. I was not sure at the spot whether inception, residual, or disposition can be negotiated. Hope next time I can do better. Wife loves the car
2011 328xi prem+nav, 33-mon lease, 10k mi per year MSRP: 42.2K, selling: 36.8K, residual 57%, money factor 0.00146 (equivalent to 3.5%).
1) Upfront payments $2794: $353 first month $875 lease inception $349 doc fee (dealer makes $500 on inception and doc combine) $901 tax (state tax on $353 x 33 + $875 + $349) $316 title registration
2) Refundable security deposit $2800 This deposit buys down 7 x 7 = 49 points from the 0.00195 money factor, thus lower monthly payment. Note 2800 is slightly higher than 7% of the cap cost, and there seems to be more room to go, the financing guy may have made a couple of hundreds here, but I didn’t argue much.
3) And there's a $350 deposition fee, if I don't buy or lease from BMWFS at the end of the lease.
Many east coast dealers seem to have more than one hundred 2011 328xi in stock. Given the market and weather condition, also incentives directly from bmw, I believe it’s very realistic to knock 6K+ off msrp. It can get even better at the end of March, but selection may be less by then.
What this guy said. For the 2012 3 series, the best offer I have seen is 500 above invoice. The MF and residual are pretty fixed. You can do MSD and lower the MF but thats about all the variable you are getting.
So I see that BMW has announced new offers on the 328xi for March. Does anyone (car_man?) know the embedded residual and money factor for the 30 month 328xi lease offer advertised on BMW's website? Thanks in advance.
Just picked up a new 328i X-drive. With the new incentives and the 2012s now at the dealers it seems like time for a good deal on the 2011. MSRP was $41, 215. Sales price was $33,429 plus taxes, plates, etc. In addition the 0.9% financing and first two payments free made it an easy call. Only a few grand more than the used 2009 I was considering. Works for me.
I'm in Bay Area and I'm looking forward to lease a 328i convertible for 32 months. A couple of questions: 1 - Are there any incentives now? On BMW official website I saw there is a 1000 lease credit. 2 - What's the reasonable residue value & MF for this lease?
Guys, looking for advice - recently drove a friends modded 2009 335i and loved it so am itching to buy one. Went to test drive a 2009 at a dealership in LA which had less than 30k miles on it, sports package, premium package and navi etc. Cost around 34k. The dealer apparently had a bunch of new 2011 335is left and offered one for 45k (includes cold weather package,premium package, navi, sports package).
I'm not sure how much these cars depreciate but i'm wondering if the 45k is a good offer considering 2012s are out - I'm ok with a 2009 model as well however wanted to check if you guys think this is a deal worth considering.
I'm looking for a similar automobile, but have been quoted a considerably higher figure from my local BMW dealer (almost $38k). The name of your dealer would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
I got the quote for 2012 328i Mineral Grey Metallic, Leather with Premium Package $41,202 OTD price, dealer in Southern Cali. Also I got the quote Mineral Grey Metallic, Leatherette, Moonroof, Power Front Seats OTD price: $39,464.25
Taking delivery tomorrow a 2011 328i xdrive with Value package and Premium package2 DeepSeaBlue Metallic 5500down 30 months/30000miles 275/month BMW pays for 2 months. Is this a good deal? I think I overpais atleast 1500$
1st you have to post the MSRP of the car Next find out what the selling price is Next find out what the money factor (or lease rate) they are charging you is
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
MTV...what NYC said. If you haven't taken delivery yet, let us know what the MSRP and the actual purchase price is. Then, let us know the tax, and trade info (if any). Then ask them for the money factor.
We'll be able to better help once we have that info.
Just reporting offer from BMW dealer in SW FL- drove car today, much nicer than I had expected. Dealer offered 3% off MSRP, I guess not bad for a brand new model. That price, $52884, equates to a $684/month lease, plus tax for 36 mo, 10K/yr miles. MF = .00195 and residual = 65%. I do not know of any available incentives for this model but think the residual makes up for a lot. Up to 7 security deposits can be made, each one reduces MF by .00007.
Is this a good offer. 2000 down, $376/month 10k for 30 months? MSRP 41,365. residual 27,700. First time lease buyer. Im paying taxes and bank fee and reg fees up front. didnt understand what 2500 allowance meant in ad either.
My lease to be finished is MSRP 41325 for the 2011 328xi sedan im putting 2000 done. Is this a good deal? Im paying taxes bNK FEE AND motor vehicle fees up front. Compare this to BMW lease special please. What is 2600 allowance mean. THX
Looking at a lease on a 2011 328xi, MSRP of $42815. What is the MF and residual for a 30 month lease?
I'm located in VA and the dealer has an advertised $479 administrative fee and the tax rate is 3.5%. What payment should I expect to negotiate if I pay nothing down compared to paying $2500 down.
I was looking at a 2012 328i. Anyone know much off list are dealers discounting these cars? I got one offer of $1600 off list, before we talked lease/sale details. This was about 3% off MSRP for the car I was looking at.
I like to get pricing before talking lease or purchase. Anyone out there have a 2012 sales experience yet? (Naples, FL)
Comments
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
$2,500 dealer cash
$1,305 AT credit
2011 328i w/auto, PP, (heated seat already comes with value package)
Target Price: $31,131
from carsdirect.com, try w/your zip code.
they offered me 34000 and i asked for 32000 and then 33000 not accepted.
328i+pp
dealer!!!! no good man....
I ended up buying a 2011 328i with premium pkg and Navigation with MSRP= $40,675 for $34,997 last day of Jan 2012. Had to pull the trigger since the color combo i was interested in was the last available within 100 mile radius Just wondering if anyone is seeing a better deal recently?
i bought on jan.30th msrp close to 40k and get it $33,800+all other stuff: premium+heated seat, silver + grey. edmunds says invoice is $36,000. so the cost is 33,500 after 2500 incentive. did not get any other service or extra dime on anything.
The car price in this area is higher in general than the big cities and the quote from other vendors in the area(within 100miles there are 5 dealers total) are much worse than this one. so i jumped.
so far its ok but when i turn sharply, there are sounds a small metal/screw things on the back go left and right. need bring into the deal to check and fix that.
otherwise pretty good.
i guess since bmw is one of the hardest to negotiate so anything below invoice shld be pretty good. i asked the sales and he said when 2012 model comes in, there will be no negotiation.
I figured i could probably get another $500 off the price if i waited a little more when the 2012 cars hit the dealers, but then I would have to get the colors and the options that were left. So it was easy. This one was MSRP= 40,675 and SP= 34,997+tax+ registration+ $80(junk fee). BMW finance also has the 0.9% financing for 60months which is amazing!
Cheers!
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Please respond by Tuesday, February 7, 2012 with your daytime contact information and a few words about your experience.
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Share your vehicle reviews
I assume the last three digits signify how long they have had the car, and how many times the price has been reduced?
Is there a formula / rule to figure out when the price was reduced and when it may be reduced again if it doesn't sell.
Basically if it's $xx,991 does that mean it's been reduced a couple of times and they are more likely to negotiate or I can wait a little while for further reduction?
THANKS!!!!
When you list by price, low to high, their units come up first, instead of those that price by xx,999
BMW CPO cars are like any other used car, except they come with an extended warranty and supposedly are inspected and held to certain standards, and brought up to those standards or rejected, if found lacking..
That warranty adds cost to the dealer, and is reflected in the price... Pricing is no different than any other used car. The dealer sets the asking price and you have to negotiate for your best deal.
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Did you get a good deal? Be sure to come back and share!
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Here is some information from a BMW salesperson in the Bay Area regarding the recently released 2012 BMW 3 series
- supply of the 335 is very low
- better deals available on the 328
- you have to custom order the specific car that you want (i.e., the cars are not available in inventory)
- if you custom order a car it will take 2 months to arrive
Any ideas on pricing?
I'm in the Bay Area and was quoted the following on a 2012 228i 36 mo/15K miles per yr lease.
I haven't seen the milage penalty charge before, can anyone verify is this is a decent deal? It appears high to me.
Thanks!
MSRP 44.195
Milage penalty 1,800
Residual 62%
Lease end value 25,600
Sell price 41,800 + gap insurance of 925 = total cap cost of $42,725
608.91 + 50.24 (tax) = 659.15 payment.
Sec deposit $2
tot initial fees $45
tot annual fees $369 (not sure what this is?)
Drive off $1,078.86
a) What is the MF you were quoted?
b) What is the invoice price of your car?
Not really a fan of gap insurance, but hey its a personal choice
They came back and told me they made a mistake on the lease payment (I'm not sure if they did or just gave me new numbers because I told them it was too high). MF was .00195,
Price is:
15k miles is 608.82
12k miles is 584.11
I don't want to pay for gap insurance, can I opt out of that?
Thanks for your help!
That is the acquisition fee for BMWFS
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The variables that are used to calculate LEASE PAYMENT are
1. CAPITALIZED COST (i.e., the price that you negotiate, including fees such as gap insurance, in your case it is 42,725)
2. RESIDUAL (i.e., the price at the end of the lease, calculated by multiplying the negotiated price by the RESIDUAL PERCENT which BMW determines)
3. DOWN PAYMENT (i.e., any amount you pay to reduce the amount that you are "financing"... I am putting "financing" within quotation marks because you are not really financing a purchase and instead "renting for a period" such as 36 months)
4. MONEY FACTOR (i.e., the annual interest rate divided by 2400)
Here is a link that will help you calculate the LEASE PAYMENT
http://www.carloancalculator.me/lease-calculator/
My recommendation is to negotiate a lower CAPITALIZED COST since they are unlikely to lower the other variables. One strategy you may want to use is to first ask to reduce the money factor saying that "with interest rates near zero why are you charging me 4.68%". Try to get an interest rate close to zero, such as 0.5 % (half a percent). Then try to get them to increase the RESIDUAL by saying that "BMWs hold their values well and so I feel that the residual should be at least 75%". Finally, ask for a lower CAPITALIZED COST. This is the variable that the dealer CAN reduce.
Your goal should be to pay less than $400 per month with ZERO down. Actually I would not pay more than $375 ... but that's because I negotiate hard and if I do not get what I want I walk away from the deal
FWIW, this is the deal I have on the table:
MSRP: ~ $42.5k
Selling Price: ~35k
Additional cap cost reduction: $2.5k
I do not know the residual or money factor specifically but with this combination of other inputs and a $3k down payment the pretax monthly payment was $360 (this would imply a 50% residual with a .00195 money factor if my math is correct).
Is this a deal worth jumping on before the current offer expires? Is a better deal likely to replace it on March 1? Is the offer "deadline" meaningless and the dealer would be willing to make this same deal March 1 regardless of what special offers BMW is advertising?
Sorry for all the questions - I have never leased a car and never really paid attention to advertised deals so don't know how to proceed.
Thanks!
- you have an "anchor" for the price (i.e., you have some idea of the lease payment)
- the seller CAN go lower (this is obvious because that's how businesses and people operate ... for example when you set the price for something that you are willing to sell you will have a range in mind and you will start at the high end of the price and then keep negotiating till the price hits a "floor" below which you will not drop the price. You should try to find out the floor price for the car)
I ran the numbers using the calculator here http://www.carloancalculator.me/lease-calculator/
and it seems that you are basically financing about $9,500 (32500 - 3K downpayment - 20K residual) at 4.68%.. What this also means is that you are "renting" a car for 3 years and paying a price of $12.5K. This is an ok price if the interest rate were lower.
Let's look at this deal - you are prepared to drive an OLDER MODEL BMW for 3 more years. In other words this car, which is already an outdated model, will get more and more outdated every day right until you have to return it to the dealer. This car should not be worth 12.5K. I would pay, in today's current dollars, at most 10K to lease it.
My recommendation is to go for a lower monthly payment, which you can arrive at by negotiating one or more of the following
- lower cap cost
- lower money factor
- higher residual
If you let the deadline of Feb 29 slip and then come back at the end of March the seller is UNLIKELY to give you the same or better deal.
So, here is your best bet: late in the evening on Feb 29 you show up at the dealer PREPARED TO BUY IF YOU GET THE RIGHT PRICE. Then you ask for a monthly payment of $280 AFTER TAXES. In your mind you should have a "ceiling price" which would be the MAXIMUM that you would be willing to pay. Do not offer any more than the 3K downpayment. Then, if the car dealer does not give in to your ceiling price you should walk away and NEVER go back to that dealer.
I would recommend that you pay maximum of $300 per month including taxes.
Good luck and I hope you get the $300/month price.
Do you realize that money factors and residual values are set by the manufacturer and can not be negotiated lower than a base rate? Sure some dealers may mark up the money factor for extra profit, but you don't have a chance in hell at getting a dealer to reduce it below what is set by BMWFS just because you negotiate hard. You also can't choose your own residual based on what you think a BMW will be worth in 3 years.
Please stop littering this forum with advice that belongs on the trash heap. Even if your uncle owned a BMW dealership you would be laughed at asking for a 75% residual and .5% interest on a lease.
2011 328xi prem+nav, 33-mon lease, 10k mi per year
MSRP: 42.2K, selling: 36.8K, residual 57%, money factor 0.00146 (equivalent to 3.5%).
1) Upfront payments $2794:
$353 first month
$875 lease inception
$349 doc fee (dealer makes $500 on inception and doc combine)
$901 tax (state tax on $353 x 33 + $875 + $349)
$316 title registration
2) Refundable security deposit $2800
This deposit buys down 7 x 7 = 49 points from the 0.00195 money factor, thus lower monthly payment. Note 2800 is slightly higher than 7% of the cap cost, and there seems to be more room to go, the financing guy may have made a couple of hundreds here, but I didn’t argue much.
3) And there's a $350 deposition fee, if I don't buy or lease from BMWFS at the end of the lease.
Many east coast dealers seem to have more than one hundred 2011 328xi in stock. Given the market and weather condition, also incentives directly from bmw, I believe it’s very realistic to knock 6K+ off msrp. It can get even better at the end of March, but selection may be less by then.
For the 2012 3 series, the best offer I have seen is 500 above invoice. The MF and residual are pretty fixed. You can do MSD and lower the MF but thats about all the variable you are getting.
Can you tell me if the price of 34,997 was before any rebates, or does this include the rebates ?
thanks in advance !!
Can you tell me if the price of ~35k is before any rebates, or does this include the rebates ?
thanks in advance !!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
I'm in Bay Area and I'm looking forward to lease a 328i convertible for 32 months. A couple of questions:
1 - Are there any incentives now? On BMW official website I saw there is a 1000 lease credit.
2 - What's the reasonable residue value & MF for this lease?
Thanks!
I am looking for the 328i 2012 with base + Metallic paint, Mooroof, Leather, Power Front Seats.
Thank you so much.">link title
HEATED STEERING WHEEL (N/A w/ZMP M Sport Pkg) (248)
SATELLITE RADIO -inc: (1) year subscription (655)
PREMIUM PKG -inc: Dakota leather seat trim, universal garage door opener, auto-dimming pwr folding exterior mirrors w/2-position memory, auto-dimming rearview mirror w/compass, pwr front seats w/4-way pwr lumbar, 2-position driver seat memory, BMW Assist w/4-year subscription, Bluetooth interface, pwr tilt/slide glass moonroof (REQ: ZVP Value Pkg)
No trade in.
looking for advice - recently drove a friends modded 2009 335i and loved it so am itching to buy one. Went to test drive a 2009 at a dealership in LA which had less than 30k miles on it, sports package, premium package and navi etc. Cost around 34k. The dealer apparently had a bunch of new 2011 335is left and offered one for 45k (includes cold weather package,premium package, navi, sports package).
I'm not sure how much these cars depreciate but i'm wondering if the 45k is a good offer considering 2012s are out - I'm ok with a 2009 model as well however wanted to check if you guys think this is a deal worth considering.
Thanks!!
Also I got the quote Mineral Grey Metallic, Leatherette, Moonroof, Power Front Seats OTD price: $39,464.25
Are these reasonable price?
Thx
Automatic, Premium Package, Value Package, Steptronic, Heated Steering Wheel, Split Folding Rear Seats, Xenon Headlights, Satellite Radio, Navigation, Metallic Paint
Titanium Silver/Black Leather
MSRP: $44,190
Sale Price: $38,746
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
with Value package and Premium package2
DeepSeaBlue Metallic
5500down
30 months/30000miles
275/month
BMW pays for 2 months.
Is this a good deal?
I think I overpais atleast 1500$
DO NOT PUT "MONEY DOWN" ON A LEASE
1st you have to post the MSRP of the car
Next find out what the selling price is
Next find out what the money factor (or lease rate) they are charging you is
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
We'll be able to better help once we have that info.
2011 328i (prem2\nav\convenience\value\automatic\apps\smartphone integration) - msrp 43025
sold price 37482
MF = 0.00195
Residual = 65%
$2000 OTD
$420/month with tax. 36m. 10k miles/year.
I'm located in VA and the dealer has an advertised $479 administrative fee and the tax rate is 3.5%. What payment should I expect to negotiate if I pay nothing down compared to paying $2500 down.
Thanks for your help.
I like to get pricing before talking lease or purchase. Anyone out there have a 2012 sales experience yet? (Naples, FL)