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Comments
http://www.autosafety.org/.
If I connect my Amazingly Expensive HDTV set to wrong voltage it will smoke. Whose fault is this? Installer if they did this, not manufacturer.
ABS, ESL and ESP all rely on wheel speed. By putting one different tire you just mess up with system inputs. I cannot blame manufacturer for assuming that user will use proper tires, at least 4 identical tires.
I assure you that if you did this to any AWD (is your VW 4Motion ?) vehicle you would need new center differential.
Now system with messed up intputs will have messed up outputs (garbage in garbage out). Did you check brakes after tire adventure? ESL and ESP use wheel braking to achive what they are designed to do. I would have brakes inspected and I think your brilliant tire installer should pay the bill.
Not checking tires was their fault.
Krzys
Maybe what you are experiencing with your braking is "I didn't know what problems I might have caused by having three matching tires and one smaller tire". I suspect that you driving with mismatched tires is related to what you see, by the way how long did you drive on them?
Krzys
The current ABS/BRAKE lights could possibly be related (19 months) later, but the cause and effect seems doubtful. Especially, since the car has been back to the dealer for other things (window regulators, head lights, cooling/heating, etc,) since then.
Is this a transmission issue, or a fuel issue?
Any thoughts or suggestions?
The soonest I could get it in was this Friday.
Are there any other records of the Anti Slip light problem being a broader issue than I am aware of? I just know because I am a woman the dealar is going to screw with me.
Any suggestions would be most helpful. Feel free to email me direct....jhan.price@gmail.com :confuse:
If I'm reading this correctly, your ASR light on your 2006 Passat Wagon is on and the brake lights (on the rear of the car) are staying on. Do you mean ABS light, by chance?
I'm sure you are concerned about your battery dying from the lights staying on when the ignition is shut off. You could (at least you could on the older models, pre-2006) simply pull the fuse for brake lights. That way all other electrical functions would work and the clock won't have to be reset. Of course, you won't have any functional brake lights - if you put the fuse back in, they'll always be on, but that's better than no brake lights at all.
Is your model year a typo? Edmunds doesn't show a turbodiesel engine available on the '06 model, but it does for the '05 model.
If you in fact have an '05 model, the switch on the brake pedal may be bad. I had this happen on my '03 and it was covered under the original warranty. Post a little more detail and maybe we can help you get to the bottom of this.
Out of curiosity, was the timing belt tensioner replaced by your indie replaced the TB and water pump? At what mileage was that work done and how long before the helicopter sound appeared?
Lots of people on Passat boards across the web recommend changing out almost everything that the TB touches, including the tensioner when the TB is replaced.
Good luck with your tough situation.
Some of the online vendors sell the complete kit - TB, tensioner, water pump, etc.
After flipping the electrical lock 5 or 6 times or taking a short drive, it's back on again. Any ideas?
renej777
Google "replace Passat microswitch" for details.
I'm racking my brain trying to figure out what the problem is. There were no issues last week when I parked it.
What's going on?
Anyway, the main damage was to the belly pan or whatever you call that plastic shield-thing underneath the engine - the front end of it got torn off and I heard a scraping sound underneath as it dragged under the car. I pulled off the road, took a look, AAA came out, and the guy wired the pan back on with black plastic wire clips. A small chunk of the thing was torn off but it is more or less in place.
The dealer estimates $362 to replace it, but I notice German Auto Parts offers the part for $129. Hmm.... doesn't look that hard to install, even for a non-DIY type like me. And I don't think there's any hurry, since most of the old one is jerry-rigged onto the car.
Any cautions or advice on this or on installation?
Thanks!
Krzys
First the water leaked to thr front drivers floor, now the back floor is flooded.
Any advice is very appreciated. -Thanks
I'm new to this posting so this may have been mentioned already. But check the nipple like rubber hose coming out at a 45 degree angle near the upper portion of the frame where you open the door. Here you can see the nipple is flat on the edge - this is where the sunroof drains into. If you open the sunroof and pour water in this area (be careful), it will come out this nipple (on both sides). If it *doesn't* come out then your nipple/hose is plugged. Stick a small twig (not too sharp) in the nipple and wiggle around to see if water comes out. This should fix it. I saw this done at the dealer.
Personally, I give those nipples a squeeze after every car wash to make sure they stay clear. I also watch them when I get in the car in rain. I always watch for water dripping from them.
Finally, yeah, you really need to clean out that cowl section by the battery and brake booster. But it could be that the seal is shot around the cabin air filter. It's a craptacular design. You can search the web for how to repair/upgrade that gasket with RTV or other sealant.
thanks
thanks
passat pollen filter seal
First link has another link, and that should give you pics of the job (or it did this AM when I tried it). Sorry, rules here preclude giving any more clues than that. If you show your email, I'd send you the link.
Thanks!
I've never done this with my car, so I can't answer your question! I do, however, watch that cowl area to make sure it's clear of any debris and I watch my sunrood drains to make sure the actually drain.
Yeah, the filter change is easy...I've done that myself. I was trying to get him to the page with the repairing / resealing instructions for the foam gasket under the actual filter (haven't needed to do this one myself, though).
Thanks to everyone for their help.
Good luck
I bought a 2003 passat manual tranny with 44k on it. After test driving 2 similar cars with pretty much the same mileage on them(both stick shift)I found hard switching to the 2-nd gear on both cars(although clutch pedal is presses all the way). Problem is more accute when car is cold. My other car is a Honda CR-V(stick shift) with 92K, original clutch on it and shifting is much smoother. Is any way to improove this?
Thanks
According to invoice VWCS90319 "SAP had water in compartment causing engine light to trigger off. VW Tech Hot Line said combi-valve would not be cause of problem"*
According to Service Mgr, notes indicated that replacement #2 also was found to contain water. Apparently there is no information regarding the cause of failure on the original and # 1 replacement pump.
When asked how the water gets in if not through a defective Combi Valve, the response is "It gets in from the outside or "It splashes in"
Actually the only way water can get in a properly functioning system is by flooding the air cleaner box which would had ruined the car. (At least twice).
Is possible that a Major International Auto company would was not going to honor their warrantee no matter what?
WVK
* Result of my quest to find out cause of problem:
Q: "2000 1.8T with 68,000 has had 3 replacement pumps an now needing a 4th. Current one has lasted only 10, 000 mi. Is this normal?
A: No it's not normal! The common MISTAKE made by the repair person isn't replacing the combi valve on the cylinder head too. What happens is the valve hangs open some and condensation (water) from combustion get forced back into the pump causing a failure. Or the pump suction line is cracked/broken and pulling water in from rain, snow, etc!
Q: The service Mgr is telling me that I must be driving though high water (which I haven't) which ruins the low mounted pump. Is that explanation plausable?
A: only if you drive through 12" deep water. But then again the pump is sealed well. I stand by my first idea, if none of the plastic lines are cracked and seal well, especially at the pump... then it's the combi valve."
From the pump manufacturer:
"In the case of a failed secondary air pump, the actual cause is frequently not found in the pump itself but instead in a sticking non-return valve between secondary air pump & exhaust manifold for example. For this reason
in the case of a failure all components togeather must be checked" http://www.msi-motor-service.com/ximages/PG_PI_0025_EN_WEB.pdf
"At the first sign of trouble, the combi valve should have been replaced. When they go bad, they leak exhaust and condensation into the pump, which ruins it. The combi valve is a one way vacuum operated valve, if water gets in the
pump, the hose between the air filter box and pump is broke or the combi valve is leaking...any mechanic should know this."
"Do yourself a favor, replace the combi valve. The ONLY way water can get in there is from the combi valve. The only other way in is the air intake in the engine air filter box, water in there and the last thing you have to worry about is the sap pump!"
The sap sucks air from the CLEAN side of the air filter box.So the mechanic (if he really is one) thinks there is water after the engine air filter? I would have lauged at him to his face. If the hose is intact, water should not be able to get in the pump that way. No wonder so many people have problems, since the people fixing the cars are
so off base..".
http://forums.vwvortex.com/zerothread?id=2332189&postid=25443239
Krzys
Its not throwing a CEL and I don't think there are any codes waiting to light up.
He said last time he looked at the plugs there was carbon build up. I was wondering if it is more an issue with the knock sensor being a little too hyper or an ignition issue.
Any thoughts?