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You should double check for your vehicle, visit K&N website here: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=33-2878
I dont see where I can access the instructions there, but they sent me instructions with the air filter I bought from them. Call them or something! Good Luck
If you have the water pump with plastic innards, that is HIGHLY recommended. A broken timing belt usually means that another component has failed previously (rather than the timing belt itself) - i.e. water pump, timing belt tensioner, etc. - leading to the timing belt's demise...
If you have the water pump with the metal innards, based on the experiences of several VW mechanics that I've spoken to - the newer timing belts are robust enough to go at least 90,000 - 100,000 miles before changing it (and the water pump). I usually go with the 90,000 mile figure - just to be on the safe side... :shades:
i had the same problem with my 2002 passat WITH RIGHT TURNS TOO! i felt weird telling the vw dealer this last january (cold weather like you), but they said that my brake pads needed replacement. and 500 buck later , it came on again. so this time they replaced the brake reservoir. now fast forward 6mo, i start having problems with what seemed like my automatic transmission (not upshifting when pressing down on the gas). i then get the recall notification in the mail about the pollen filter seal, and water that can back up into the car as a result. so i took the car in, and they said that the "?transmission sensor" was under the seat where the water gathered, so they replaced it for "free."
i have been reading other people's isse with that recall, and i wonder whether the brake reservoir could have frozen as a result of the recall as well.
they have already told me that they are denying my request for reimbursment for the brakes/rotor repair.
what do you think?
good luck.
The engine light is on.
I am getting the following codes: 17119: gear 5 incorrect ratio P0735 mechanical failure,
17195 Excessive Clutch Slippage P0811 Mechanical failure,
17100 Tranmission Input speed sensor (G182) implausible signal P0716 MIL ON:
CAN YOU PLEASE ADVISE PROBLEM and a SOLUTION ? Thanks
Jim
It is due for an oil change, and I'm taking it in on Friday, but I was wondering if that or a dirty oil filter could make that much of a difference, or does it sound like it might be more of a transmission issue? It has 45k miles--could a trans flush be on the horizon, or am I barking up the wrong tree?
Thanks in advance,
Steve R.
Only test drove a used 07 passat (dealer does not have 08 model) that I won't buy. Will test a new 08 one at a different dealer. I dislike the red indications on the display and it makes eyes fatigue. Why don't they change it to green or other color. I also don't like the seat. I am medium build and feel the seat not as comforable as those on Volvo. Btw these are somethings that are not that critical. I read enough bad reviews on passat for its problems and expensive maintemnace and repairs and that's the main concern I have. Of course I read bad reviews on every make and every models. So for those who have owned Passat for around 5 year or above how do you rate its reliability and how much did it cost you on maintenance and repair? I know it depends on luck, same principle on buying used cars, when it comes to single individual.
-high cost of repair
-not too reliable, crazy front suspension problems and more
But with the new volkswagens:
-I dont really know!
But, oh man, they are so much fun to drive and they dont look bad. If you want an awesome driving experience and willing to spend some money on repairs down the line then go ahead.
This is just my opinion, not the consensus!
I am not a "hard driver" and it has been very reliable transportation. I get between 35 and 40 mpg. The only serious problem I've had with it, occurred recently and left me on the side of the road on three separate occasions. It was diagnosed as a crank position sensor, which I had replaced and it has performed very well for almost two weeks since.
Jim
the mistake of driving an 08 Passat Wagon. I am in love with it. Loved how it
hauled [non-permissible content removed] and just handled. I want it BAD! but, i too am unsure of VWs
reliability, and I would lose ALOT of money on my trade since it is a giant [non-permissible content removed]
tax deduction. So, in 3 years, I willl get a VW Wagon, or 5 series wagon, and
finally be happy.
the car has been awesome. it now has 106,000 miles on it. the only problem I've had was the flasher/turn signal unit went out at about 80,000. It cost about $40 at the dealer for the new unit, and about 15 min to put it in. I know this car doesn't have a great reliability reputation, but mine has been excellent.
1. Never, EVER use a Haynes manual as a reference guide for a VW. I highly recommend purchasing the Bentley manual (the VW bible).
2. The Haynes manual that you have probably has information for your Passat up to early 2001. Your car is more than likely the 2001.5 - which had a lot of design changes to the engine - including the hydraulic tensioner that you have (the one with the rod protruding from the lower left). This tensioner adjusts the timing belt tension automatically without the need for human intervention (except to replace the tensioner itself).
3. If your car is indeed a 2000 through 2005, the water pump is integrated into the engine block. If you see a cogged gear that the timing belt drives - that is your waterpump. I would HIGHLY recommend changing the water pump at this time due to the fact that the factory water pumps have plastic impellers that have been known to disintegrate around the 60,000 - 70,000 mile mark. The water pump should be replaced with the improved aftermarket GRAF water pump with the metal impeller.
If you do not have any of these items, I would STOP what you're doing, and order a complete timing belt service kit from germanautoparts.com.
Here's the complete link specifically for your model passat
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Passat/Engine/290/3
Trust me, this will save you a lot of headache$$$$$$$ in the long run.
Good Luck...
My condition was temperature related and similar to yours. If I really gave it the gas, the exhaust sensor light would flash to indicate potential problems with the catalytic converter. This all happened after I hit a deer and had quite a few repairs to the front left side of the car.
The problem was diagnosed by Northland VW in Cincinnati. It was a broken spark plug wire. He found it by spritzing water into the engine as it ran, then saw sparks. It was very tough to find because I could not produce the problem for any dealers. They replaced all the spark plug wires.... then ended up replacing them again 4000 miles later for a regular maintenance!
Question: do you think this tensioner needs to be replaced? When I compressed it in the c-clamp, a small amount of hydraulic fluid came out.
In other words, if you just replace some of the parts, and one of those components fail, you're looking at a $5000+ engine replacement job.
So play it safe - and replace everything. And do not install that plastic water pump - get the metal one. Based on my personal experience (I have two 2003 1.8Ts - one Passat and one Jetta), and the experiences of many VW mechanics that I've worked with over the years - the plastic waterpump has a life expectancy of 60,000 - 65,000 miles before its starts to disintegrate.
The metal water pump will extend your timing belt change intervals to the 90,000-100,000 miles (close to the factory recommended 105,000 miles). With the metal water pump, I make it a point to change the belts (and associated components) every 90,000 miles (to be on the safe side).
That being said - everything I have just stated assumes that the car has regular oil changes not exceeding 5,000 mile intervals with a VW 502.00 specification motor oil (at the VERY MINIMUM) or a VW 503.01 specification motor oil (HIGHLY RECOMMENDED). The majority of timing belt failures are due to factors other than the timing belt itself:
1) Sludge - leading to a seized engine which causes the timing belt to break
2) Failed timing belt related components:
- Plastic water pump disintegrates - plastic pieces jam the water pump
while the timing belt is moving - causing the belt to break
- Timing belt tensioner failure - causing the timing belt to break
- Running an engine with the same timing belt past the recommended
change interval (i.e. well past 105,000 miles) - leading to timing belt
failure due to excessive wear.
Here's a list of motor oils I recommend (using the newer VW 503.01 specification - HINT: every oil in this specification is synthetic):
Mobil 1 0W-40 (Available at most major auto stores)
Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (Available at Auto Zone, and selected auto stores)
Oil Filter - Use the factory MANN oil filter specifically for the Passat 1.8T ONLY!!!! Most of the aftermarket oil filters (Fram, etc.) are of inferior construction (rubber bypass valves, rubber anti-drainback valves, etc.).
The VW factory oil filters are not only robustly constructed, they incorporate an internal steel ball-bearing bypass valve and steel ball-bearing anti-drainback valve which aids in regulating the oil pressure while the engine is running, and prevents dirty oil from flowing back into the engine after the engine is turned off.
Good luck, and let us know how your timing belt job worked out.
I finally got the timing belt on....after about 5 hours of tugging, stretching, cursing and inserting several breaks to restore my sanity, I got it on by getting it on the crank, water pump and tensioner pulley and about halfway on the camshaft. Then I put a wrench to the camshaft and turned it, pulling the belt onto the cam in the same manner I used to put bicycle chains back on...
I must confess that I decided to take my chances with the old tensioner and the plastic water pump, in no small part due to the fact that parts were not available for several days and I need this car on the road. I will be sure to do this again in 60,000 miles and order the German Auto Parts kit and do it right. I can't tell you how disappointed I was that I didn't know about this product before I started. I also changed the plugs and oil, and the car runs fantastic. BTW, my experience is that those platinum plugs are worth changing at 50,000 miles, not 100,000.
If your car is at or above 60,000 miles, you're rolling the dice by re-using the old tensioner. But the bigger risk is re-using the old water pump. Case in point: When the timing belt/water pump was changed on my 2003 Wolfsburg Jetta 1.8T (73,000 miles) and 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T (65,000) miles, the water pumps on both cars disintegrated when they were removed (not worn, but DISINTEGRATED). This is based not only on my experience, but the experience of several VW mechanics that I've worked with over the years.
I realize you need to get your car back on the road, but you have to ask yourself - is it worth risking a potential $5000+ (for the engine alone without the labor) engine replacement? Keep in mind, the 1.8T is an Audi-sourced engine, not a VW engine - which means $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$....
Krzys
60,000 miles. Beautful Car, Owner sale, Fully loaded, one owner and very low mileage , V6 engine. Recently fitted with new tires, brakes and battery. All scheduled maintenance completed. Purchased new car and must sell.
he also told me he had an oil leak but just recently got that fixed.
so, what im asking is, if it all checks out, does this seem to be a good deal. anything you would suggest me asking him? he said i can take it to a mechanic, which i will, but you guys have any tips for me
If that isn't the case, the seller should knock at least $750 - $1000 off the price (which is what will likely cost to have the timing belt service performed - which includes the timing belt, serpentine belt, tensioners, water pump, thermostat).
If these terms are met and you wind up purchasing the car, I would then do the following:
1) Purchase the timing belt service kit from germanautoparts.com. It includes everything you will need - including the improved aftermarket water pump with a metal impeller. Do this and you will extend your timing belt service interval from 60,000 to 100,000 miles (as recommended by the factory).
Here's the link for the timing belt service kit:
http://www.germanautoparts.com/Volkswagen/Passat/Engine/290/5
2). Find a reputable mechanic who specializes in VWs, and have them install the timing belt kit (that way you will only have to pay for labor). I would not take it to the dealer because not only are their labor charges much higher, they will insist on installing their factory parts (including the plastic water pump) - and you will pay accordingly $$$$$.
Also find out whether the following recall items have been addressed:
1) Brake light switch
2) Coolant temp sensor
In addition, check the condition of the brakes - especially the rear ones, as the rear brakes tend to wear more quickly than the fronts on Passats.
Good luck...
I noticed an earlier post suggesting a loose engine mount. Could this instead be due to an inproper alignment of the crank and cam shafts (incorrect timing)??
I will be returning soon to the dealer to get the problem corrected on their dime (it is not only annoying but is probably damaging my engine) since the car ran smoothly prior to the repairs.
Any other suggestions for getting the dealer to acknowledge this problem and to fix it??
Thanks
I'm an East-Coaster, so I wouldn't personally know any mechanics in the Dallas area.
However, here's a link (specific to your area) that has some recommendations for VW mechanics:
http://www.city-data.com/forum/dallas/112640-vw-mechanic-dallas.html
I'm confident you are in good hands. Good luck, and keep us posted!
They gave me a form to get reimbursed if I had already paid to have this repaired. I am in the process of getting the dealer to provide me a breakout of the repair service so I can send this in to VW.
http://www.bentleypublishers.com/volkswagen
Haynes is notoriously slow on bringing out updated VW manuals. They don't appear to have a manual available for the B6 Passat, with the most current model available being the B5.5 2005 model.
http://www.haynes.com/
They told me the repair is $1,300 or $2,200 for both tensioners.
What do you guys think? Can I fis this problem for less and what should I be looking out for? Thanks you in advance.
Jon in SLC.
Good Luck...
Thanks
RWL
I have taken it in twice for diagnostics and they said that they can't find anything wrong with it ($139).However, it did throw the following codes (see below), but they said that these shouldn't be causing the problems. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Codes:
16684, 16686, 16687, 16688, 17519 and 17544
SAE - P1111
VAG - 17519
Description - 02 Control (Bank 1) System too lean
Umm, yeah, they did and you've got the codes to prove it. Where did you take it? VW specialist?
If it were me, I'd search for additional air leaks.
The local VW dealership here does have a reputation and that's why I went elsewhere. Do you suggest a VW specialist?
I've searched high, but not low for additional air leaks. I will continue looking and see if I come up with anything. Thanks for the input and I welcome more!