Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/22 for details.
Options
99silverado vibration problem
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
Just kidding, haven't from you in a awhile. Are you having any success with GM lately? I know I haven't. The dealer call me about a new S/B for the shimmy by reflashing the EPROM. That was no fix. In fact it made the problem somewhat worse. I am going to hang in there for awhile longer before I go for the lemon law. Hope to hear from you later.
J.D.Martin
Now the "good" stuff:
-Oil leaking from rear of engine (looks like rear main)
-Squeaking sound from under cab/rear of truck at low speed (<10MPH) probably doing it all the time but dont hear it unless going slow
-65 MPH passenger and console shaking bad (I have bench seat with flip down console.
-Have growl above 40 MPH (don't really bother me, but it's there)
Have appointment to take it in on Monday. I really do like my truck other than the above. I have read all the posts in this thread and have not read of anyone having GoodYear tire problems. Dealer said there was a batch of bad tires and balancing should take care of vibration. I had not noticed the problem of vibration until I hit the interstate the other day. No vibration other than arond 65 MPH.
I hope this is not a precursor of things to come. Sold a 97F150 4x4 Lariat that was never in the shop for anything the 44000 miles I had it. Will keep the group posted.
everyone I have driven has a shimmy at 65 MPH is this common ?
You cannot identify whether you have B8 or B9 hubs without first removing the tire and brake rotor. The numbers are etched into the outside surface -the surface the hub would roll on if you lowered it to the ground- and are several digits long, starting with B8 or B9.
If you have Goodyear Wrangler ST tires the dealer can replace them at no charge if the last three digits in the DOT number (a date code indicating which week and year the tires were made)are as follows.
Black wall tires 029 or lower are bad
Raised white letter 059 or lower are bad
I was told that the Goodyear dealer could replace them too, but would have to adjust for mileage while the GM dealer would not.
This information was provided to me by both Goodyear dealer and GM dealer. NONE of it is speculation on my part.
Extended cab?
Axle ratio?
Suspension?
Many thanks.
Took Delivery on Dec 30, 1998. Don't know Born on date.
Still no shake all day today, but all in town. Tomorrow will tell the story, 275 miles round trip.
was needed for the reg cab long bed. On an ext cab short bed it would be 10.5 inches longer and on ext cab long bed 24.5 inches longer than the reg cab long bed. So they used two and of course added a carrier bearing. But not on any 4x4 since the transfer case eliminates the long shaft.
1-They would not even acknowledge a problem.
2-Said it was a truck and seemed normal to them.
3-Told me I was being too picky.
4-Told me no TSB existed on the problem.
When I took the approach described above, the Service Manager spoke with his rep at GM and called me back two days later. Asked me to come in so they could just look at the hubs. Identified them as B8. One day later he called again and said he had them.
After more than seven months I finally got my solution. Get the sales department involved. Those guys know what it would do to their paycheck if it became common knowledge a problem existed and they weren't even trying to help.
Deja Vu. There must be an echo in here somewhere. This is some of what I have been getting from both my present dealer and GM all along. I am thinking of trying the other dealer in the area and see if he can do something before I go ballistic with this. However, I did talk to the service manager and I think I have talked him into at least pulling the brake rotors off to see if I have the B8 hubs. I'll find out later when I have to return to see him.
Also is there any new info on the 1500 rpm vibration?
And I don't believe you have to remove the rotor to identify it as B8 or B9? Just the wheel, right?
The rotor and hub are two different parts now. Remove the wheel, remove the round spring clips -about three- from around the studs (just break then off and throw away, only needed for assembly line) dismantle the brake caliper and pull the rotor off. The surface around the outside of the hub -the surface that would touch the ground if you lowered it- is where the number was on mine. This surface is not visible until you remove the rotor as it recesses back into the rotor close to an inch. Probably shouldn't try this unless you've done a front (disc) brake job before, but it's not that different from the ones I've seen in the past except now you don't have to disassemble and re-pack the wheel bearing. It's permanently lubricated and not involved in this procedure.
Did the Michelins make any difference? I have been thinking about changing my Goodyear Wrangler ST for a Michelin.
hope this helps.
Also - any ideas as to what build dates may be affected ? I've got a 12/98 build, 2wd with no vibration - may just pull the rotors at the next tire rotation for fun and see . . .
If a B8 hub bearing had a cylindrical outer race, it would be non self-aligning. If the outer race had a radius, like a heim joint, it would be self aligning. I can't think why you would want a self aligning bearing on your spindle. Wheel would flop around. But "self centering" was how Steve Crawford described the B9 versus B8.
May have answered this myself. There are two bearings for the hub, inner and outer. If one was self aligning, the other would probably be fixed (non SA). Maybe there is binding in one type, or runs with a different preload. Still doesn't explain why the B8 doesn't vibrate in my truck unless it is a defect not affecting all.
ed. I have a 99 Xcab Z71 that has had a "clank"
in the rearend, first I was told it was spare tire
carrier, then tailgate, then all trucks make that noise then just yesterday they replaced the rear
springs. That took care of it for now but I don't
have much faith in service dept. If noise comes
back, I will try the same. Do they just payoff
your truck, give you another vehicle or what?
Please keep us informed.
gl3 the clunk in the rear end did it do it everytime you took off from a dead stop? Because that is what mine is doing.
bump/pothole. You could really hear it when going
over a "speedbump". Dealer installed new leaf
springs yesterday, so far no more noises going over bumps. I know the noise you are talking
about. That's one of my first complaints. The
dealer installed an "Anti Clunk Seal" (spacers
in the rearend) didn't help. Others here have
suggested gear backlash and/or torque convertor.
It happens during acceleration and shifting up or
down. Sounds real nasty. I figured I'd get one
thing fixed at a time. You're not alone. Hows your
windshield molding? Any rattles at speed? Hope this helps
Generals
My dealer has ordered leaf springs to correct my launch shudder. scraw wrote describing this fix in post #247 ,#241 in topic #547( 99 gmc sierra).
I will update after they are installed.