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Comments
"I guess you have to remember that these are supposed to be economy cars first."
No offense - but I don't think you could be more wrong with regard to typical buyer of the Mazda3. Those choosing the M3 over the others are that sector of the small-car buying public looking for performance over economy and I count myself as one of those.
The Mazda3 is meant to be a performance car first - the Civic an economy car first. There's nothing wrong with either approach - it's just aimed at different needs. These different priorities are exactly why I think Civic and Mazda3 owners clash so much as to which is the best car - they're looking at totally different factors that make it "best".
I do, however, think you've made an excellent point. The typical buyer of a small car is strictly looking at the economy factor. There's no denying that. My point was simply that the excellent economy of the Civic is exactly why it wins "best car for the money" contests in the media.
That, however, doesn't mean the Civic is a "better" car. It just means it conforms more to the wants of the populous.
I have absolutely no idea what you mean by "honestly Honda already has Mazda3 beating material on the shelf for later introduction if they need to."
They already have the 200hp 2.0 engine and suspension tuning in the SI and the Acura CSX, a Civic clone in Canada, has all of the higher end Mazda3 options. If Honda wanted to compete in the "performance car" realm, they have the resources to do so. They even have a five door high performance Civic in Europe. So I guess if they thought it would sell, they could go that route too.
The CSX
http://www.acura.ca/acura/csx_micro/en/csx-popup.html
The 5-door
http://paultan.org/archives/2005/07/26/2006-honda-civic/
My main sticking point with this whole "Civic LX/EX -vs- Mazda3" debate is that they are really two entirely different animals aimed at two entirely different buyers. This disparity in target audience kind of renders the whole "-vs-" thing useless in my opinion.
For example, when I purchased my Mazda3s-GT I would have seriously looked at the Civic Si if the sedan version was out. As it stood though it was only available in a Coupe, only being sold at sticker and I had no choice in color AND was looking at a 10-12 week wait. Navigation is an option on the car but no dealer in my area could get one.
I drove the Civic EX Sedan with Navigation but there's no way I could live with its lack-luster drivetrain. That's just me - if its performance is suitable for someone, great! I just couldn't drive it every day no matter what its fuel efficiency is. The car is not made for someone looking for a performance oriented vehicle - it's made for someone looking to comfortably get from point "a" to point "b" while consuming as little gasoline as possible.
So, basically for me it came down to the Civic Si Coupe equipped like I wanted (and couldn't get...) at $24k or a Mazda3 GT Sedan (equipped exactly as I wanted...)at $22k and the Mazda3 has a ton of equipment, plus leather, that the Civic doesn't even offer. I could also get the Mazda in whatever color I wanted, etc. - it was a no brainer for me considering the reliability ratings are essentially the same on the two cars.
If I remember correctly, zero plusing tires does not change the speedo upwards. At 60MPH indicated you will be going an actual 58MPH, which is easy to live with.
To the other reader who says he doesn't understand why changing the tire brand and size would change the speedometer, if the tire is larger, diametrically, when mounted on the rim of course the speedometer will give a different TRUE reading. The whole wheel/rim is taller so the distanced traveled in 60 minutes will be different. In effect your speedo is no longer an accurate guage for speed anymore than your tach would be.
Fowler3
A plus zero means you keep the same diameter wheel - but install a tire with a larger section width (wider tire) and
a smaller aspect ratio
Plus 1 means you go up 1 inch in wheel diameter and install a tire with a larger section width and
a smaller aspect ratio
Plus 2 - go up two inches in wheel diameter bla bla bla
In all of these cases the OVERALL diameter stays about the same as stock.
I made a comment that I did not understand why people get so concerned small changes in tire size because of the impact on your speedo - like going from a 205 50 17 to a 215 50 17 - which is a change of less than 2% - so when my speedo says 60 I am really going 61.5 - big deal - who cares.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/WebX/.ef8069f/190!make=Mazda&model=MAZDA3&ed_ma- keindex=.ef8069f
What I noticed is that over 65, with the rear window all the way down, (and the front windows up) there was this rumbling coming from the back, and it got much worse up to 80 mph, to the point where it was unbearable. Opening both rear windows didn't help, either.
It started to happen with the window at about halfway down (with further experimentation)
Is this something other people have noticed?
Sorry for the sarcasm, I couldn't resist.
Every car I've ever been in displays some degree of wind buffeting when both rear windows are down. It's just the result of a drop in pressure within the car the faster you go. When the air moving over the car travels by the oepn window, it gets sucked into the lower pressure but since there's nowhere for that air to go, it gets sucked back out. If there were no back window on the car, the air would get sucked into the car and forced out the back window and the buffeting would reduce substantially.
Dave
The problem was more extreme for that particular car, than for others I've driven. I'm not sure if it's a function of the styling, or what.
In this situation, it was bad enough to be giving me an earache, which, yes, confirms the idea to me that it's definitely an air-pressure problem.
Or maybe it's just that it's been so long since I've owned a car with four doors (21 years or so), that I've just never really had occasion to notice the problem before.
Honestly though - I can't ever think of one time where I've been travelling at 80MPH and entertained the idea of just having the rear windows open.
For one thing - it's been pretty much proven that having your windows down increases drag enough to more than negate any gas mileage savings from having the A/C off. If anything - modern A/C units on and windows up will yield you better MPG than A/C off and windows down.
no restrictions.
What about these!
If I keep it in first gear at 50 MPH the engine makes a high pitched whine - and the RPM is very high.
When I turn the heater on high with the windows rolled up on a 85 degree day the car gets hot inside.
If it is raining hard and I don't turn on the wipers its hard to see the road.
If I don't turn the stereo on I can't even hear the music.
If I put the front seat all the way back I can't reach the gas or brake pedal - but if I put the seat all the way forward the steering wheel it too close.
I can't believe Mazda does not have a TSB on these defects!
I got the trade-in value that I was looking for for my 04 sedan, so I will have a silver GT hatch by friday :shades:
It's just a different market.
As I said originally, it's been nearly 20 years since I've driven a 4-door car, and my Saab 99 wasn't a problem in that regard. And I only had the back window down so that I could make a lane change and check my blind spot without it being impaired by the price sticker.
I was just wondering if anyone else had noticed such a thing.
Sheesh.
I think the sarcasm was a result of the simple fact that in virtually ANY car sold today, you'll notice the exact same effect. In other words, this isn't a trait of JUST the Mazda3.
Dave
I'm thinking of buying a 3 with the HID's. But, they want top dollar for it. Do any of you know if I can install the OEM HID later? That way I can buy the cheapest model and satisfy my jones without busting the bank.
The illegality is due to most aftermarket systems utilizing the stock halogen reflectors. That means no cut-off like you have with the OEM HID's and that means blinding oncoming traffic. It's stupid, it's dangerous, and I freakin' scream my head off every time I see a moron coming at me with improperly installed aftermarket HID's. :mad:
The long and short of it is that the OEM Xenon HID's for the 3 are FAR SUPERIOR to any aftermarket HID you can buy. Plus, with the OEM's you've got a manual leveling device with in-cabin controls that allows you to level the cutoff.
This link may help you: OEM HID Discussion
The dealer can not put the OEM HID's in - they have to come from the factory installed. My advice - if you want HID's, bite the bullet and get the OEM ones installed from the factory.
The hosts here may delete that link since it is linking to a 'competing' forum
I wound up getting an Elantra 5-door. The air pressure problem, probably because the design is less wagon-like, is far less pronounced. So if I decide I do want the nice breeze on my back, I don't have to worry blowing out my ear drums - or feeling like that's going to happen.
It was also at least $2k less than the base level M3 hatchback, and probably more when you start accessorizing.
Yes, I'm aware I got a heavier car with a lighter engine. I'm ok with that. I got a car I'm very happy with. I just wish we could go back to the days when you could get a hatchback as the lesser option to the sedan, instead of the higher-end option. Because, sadly, money *is* an object to me. A dear and precious one.
Enjoy your new car. Hyundai has become a viable competitor and I think in 5 years or less they'll put out a worthy entry-lux competitor too.
06 GT manual
Search on google for mazda3 forums (can;t post the site name here), and you should see a site that can answer questions about this
"This is the noise and pulsating forces that accompany driving with windows open. While the frequency of the sound of the buffeting is often below the range that can be heard by human ears, it can still be felt as a pulsating wind force, a phenomenon that can be very fatiguing. "
"An unstable shear layer that is established at the forward edge of a window opening causes wind buffeting. These disturbances (swirling wind or currents of different speeds and directions) travel along the side of the vehicle and, when they reach the rear edge of the window opening, generate a pressure wave that propagates both inside and outside the passenger compartment."
Here is a little blurb I found on it
http://www.deskeng.com/Articles/Applications/Reducing-Wind-Fatigue-and-Summer-He- adaches-20041201213.html
Anyway, cool article. Thanks for the link.
I've seen several pictures of 2006 Mazda 3's with a variety of parts and accessories that apparently are not available in the USA. I saw a Thule made roof rack that attaches to the roof rain gutters, as well as Door sill enhancements and nicer pedals.
Does anyone know a source of these products other than ordering directly from Japan or Hong Kong ebay stores? I'm particularly interested in the dedicated roof rack. I know Thule they make a system that works with the 3, but the dedicated rack looks cleaner.
Thanks for any input.
Daryl
1. How noisy does it get at say 70mph as compare to your previous car?
2. Does it have passing power at 70mph?
3. How does it do going up a slight grade? Is it easy to keep a steady 60mph?
4. Does anyone with a black interior feel the cabin gets too hot easily?
Thanks in advance!
"1. How noisy does it get at say 70mph as compare to your previous car?"
previous cars were 2004 Honda CR-V and 1999 Honda Civic EX...noise levels in the 3s seem to be comparable. about the same.
"2. Does it have passing power at 70mph?"
has plenty of power in reserve...it's so easy to be cruising along at 70, step on the gas and next thing i know, i'm going over 90! the suspension is so good that the 3 feels very surefooted & stable even going over 100mph. my civic was lowered w/ eibach prokit springs & tokico struts and didn't feel as stable as the 3s. acceleration is definitely on par or better than our CR-V & absolutely better than my Civic.
"3. How does it do going up a slight grade? Is it easy to keep a steady 60mph?"
no problem keeping a steady 60mph on slight grades. in fact accelerating up them is a breeze even without downshifting. really steep grades do require me to downshift to 4th.
"4. Does anyone with a black interior feel the cabin gets too hot easily?"
the black leather can get pretty hot during summer...the fabric interior doesn't burn the skin, but does get pretty hot as well.
hope this helps.
i wouldn't go as far to say the Fit is as quick as the 3S...anyways i decided to check the Edmunds reviews again...
so according to Edmunds...
their 5spd MANUAL Fit did 0-60 in 9.3 secs and the 1/4 mile in 16.73 secs @ 80.82 mph
according the Edmunds comparison btwn the Civic & 3...
their 5spd AUTO TRANS 3S did 0-60 in 8.6 secs and the 1/4 mile in 16.4 secs @ 84.7 mph...
the 3 w/ the manual transmission is markedly quicker than the auto trans. i believe the 3S equipped w/ MT does 0-6 in approx 8 secs.
the 0-60 time for the Fit is about the same as that of my previous car, a 99 Civic EX, which felt substantially slower than the 3S.
Where Built: Japan
Dimensions
Exterior
Length: 176.6 in. Width: 69.1 in.
Height: 57.7 in. Wheel Base: 103.9 in.
Ground Clearance: 5.7 in. Curb Weight: 2826 lbs.
Interior
Front Head Room: 39.1 in. Front Hip Room: 54.9 in.
Front Shoulder Room: 54.9 in. Rear Head Room: 38.4 in.
Rear Shoulder Room: 54 in. Rear Hip Room: 53.9 in.
Front Leg Room: 41.9 in. Rear Leg Room: 36.3 in.
Luggage Capacity: 17.1 cu. ft. Maximum Cargo Capacity: 31 cu. ft.
Maximum Seating: 5
Performance Data
Performance
Acceleration (0-60 mph): 9.13 sec. Braking Distance (60-0 mph): 120.75 ft.
Base Number of Cylinders: 4 Base Engine Size: 2.3 liters
Base Engine Type: Inline 4 Horsepower: 160 hp
Max Horsepower: 6500 rpm Torque: 150 ft-lbs.
Max Torque: 4500 rpm Drive Type: FWD
Turning Circle: 34.1 ft.
Fuel Data
Fuel
Fuel Tank Capacity: 14.5 gal.
EPA Mileage Estimates: (City/Highway)
Manual: 25 mpg / 32 mpg Automatic: :