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Concerning the EGR, I believe soot is the contaminant so I used 1/4 liter per tankful of straight petroleum distillate (white spirit = glycerophtalic paint thinner) to clean the injector nozzles while running and thus reduce production of soot. I read the safety instructions and chemical hazards associated to the fuel treatment doses one can buy in auto shops, questionned a chemist and came to this simple conclusion: it is white spirit that's being used for this specific task. Cetane booster is different and includes a compound made from potassium (K symbol in chemistry).
The EGR valve I have on my engine is directly fitted to the turbo housing, which means it runs warmer than yours which is water cooled. This is a possible explanation for the clogging you seem to suffer from. But shure enough, city and sunday driving do clog the EGR valves over here especially with manual shifts + heavy acceleration before the max torque range. I religiously never accelerate hard in the low revs but give it all it can take above 2200 rpm. So far, so good and reaching excellence for my rig. It's like a second skin
The EGR valve on my CRD is actually fine. I blow it out weekly so there is no problem and I use an additive to keep the injectors clean.
The oil vapor issue with the intercooler system is probably related to oil vaporization from the crankcase. There is a test ASTM D-5800 (Noack) that tests for oil loss via vaporization at operating temperatures. Mobil 1 will not publish or reveal these numbers for whatever reason. I am concerned that the 0W-40 is not holding up and vaporizing thus coating the intercooler system with oil. If there is significant enough loss past the rings, the by-products of combustion + oil may be contributing to the demise of the EGR valve in some cases. Also, you have ULSD in europe. That fuel will not be available to me until next year. Diesel fuel quality in this country does leave something to be desired.
I have saved my impressions until now. The new 06 does not have locking rear diff but uses selective braking to do the job. I am building a home on a hill and found the system works very well where I had to get a running start with my 250 ford pick im up.I can stop part way up in 2 wh. and then continue Going two tracking where I may have needed 4 wheel, it pulled up hills without spinning and no shifting. I like it. Other than fuel costs, we love the jeep and consider it to be the finest car we have owned. I am adding fuel service as are others at this point in hopes of keeping things cleaner. I have not hauled with it yet but will be adding a tranny cooler in traverse city. They have added these to other liberty's and seem to think it was no problem. Also air bags to the rear springs seems a good way to go. Would I recommend this car to others, yes in spite of diesel costs. Hey, just carry a pink motor scooter on the back and use it when you get where you are going. Ok, maybe dard green. BR
Concerning oil, I refuse to use the 0W-40 because by definition "0" is not what I am looking for as of lubrification, understand the fluidity of the residual film of oil after a few days of parking. I've been using 5W-40 up to now with full satisfaction, so why change?
My problem: The computer isn't recognizing the pressure in the spare (formerly the right rear).
I really don't want to have to take this to the dealer. Any ideas?
Try this site:
http://www.biodiesel.org/buyingbiodiesel/retailfuelingsites/
It is the official biodiesel site listing stations that properly go through the "process." Without going through the details (they are at the site). At these stations, you will see the biodiesel sticker on the pump. Thanks to these guys and the Checkoff Dollars paid for by farmers ( United Soybean Board ), the standardization of this product ( BQ-9000 and ASTM D 6751 which may be read here
On another note, you may see where they list B2 or B5 on the retail refueling sites link listed above. Until someone proves me wrong, I am viewing this as the minimum blend. One B2 site that I am currently filling up is blending B10.
Little longer than anticipated, but I thought it would be a nice overview and fuel for thought.
When i put the key in and turn it on i dont see the glow plug light its about 45 degrees out. Is that normal? engine starts right up!
Of course the dealer never had to deal with one of theese before
Robd - It lights up, you just have to look carefully and extremely quickly. Read the manual and it discusses how it works. Completely different than what most of us are used to. The problem is, now I get in a company truck and don't wait for the glow plug light to go out!
With the trip reset button kept pushed inwards, turn the ignition key from "OFF" to the first position and watch the console do a self-test. You should be able to check all the lights and dials go to all positions. :shades:
You may also have a Bosch diesel repair shop close to where you live.
Many people don't use all possibilities that are offered because they think it's ridiculous or just intend to charge the warranty. Adult school should be proposed to your mechanics because there is nothing special about this thing, meaning that he/she really has a chance to learn. We have women automobile mechanics here that do extremely well because of ancient machist competition. Perhaps you would need a few of them back home.
http://www.mtu-friedrichshafen.com/en/frameset/f_home.htm
Anyone know for sure?
So far so good with mine but I do drive a steep mountain every day so I am concerned about clogging on the descent.
Thanks
DDC Cento Photo of DDC Cento
VM Motori
Far too many people think the diesel is made by Mercedes or is a Mercedes design. It is not. The dealer I purchased my CRD from asked me how did I like driving my Mercedes Jeep. After explaining the origin of the engine and the relationship of VM Motori as a supplier of engines to Chrysler before it was part of Daimler I was amazed that the salesperson told me "During Jeep training they said it was a Mercedes diesel". He still thinks it is a Mercedes.
Perhaps you not getting into 4th or 5OD. To get mine into 5OD I have to be at 57mph or it stays in 4th. Never having had a diesel before there may be something I am not doing just correct either. This forum has helped me in checking my oil that looks like pure black. I have 2850 miles on it, but have used NO oil by the dipstick. Which some have said their CRD has used 1qt at 600 miles.
I had the formed mudd flaps by Jeep, put on. And I had the flimsey cheap ST tires replaced with 8 ply heavy duty M&S tires put on. I hope something I have said helps a little.
SO they are very fast?
I asked about putting a pressure sensor on the spare -- the dealer indicated that it was about a $100 part -- not worth it to me as it is a bit more than the cost of a new tire.
If you have the premium system then just exactly how does the dealer explain "spare low pressure" on the EVIC?
(If you have an obstructed return of oil, when the engine is running you would be able to see liquid stagnate where you normally fill your engine.)
This valve is sucked by the turbo intake port just after the filter element so there has to be something wrong in the valve itself if the engine burns it's own oil, otherwise there is an oil leak in the turbo. In either case this could clog the EGR and call for a better oil separator: the "Provent" from Mann+Hummel that I have not yet taken time to install :sick:
This is where the test came in as I misjudged the sink hole on my side and the jeep slid into it, leaning well over to the side. Other than my wife getting excited we were fine. The two wheels on my side were hanging in water and muck with no traction whatever with the skid plates holding it up. Oddly the jeep kept going back with the other side being high and dry. Just last year with my tracker, we had to walk out and get a tow in a similar situation. By the way, we still have the stock tires on yet which I am looking foreward to upgrading. For you guys in the mountains, back country around here can be a different game due to bottomless roads which come and go including forms of quicksand which really leaves you hanging. Great system, love it. BR
-A bottomless road with a water hole or
-A bottomless cliff where you must keep going because you can't get out of the truck the door just gets too heavy and pushes against you when you try to get out.
Needless to say if you have the proper tires this thing will take you almost everywhere and you will be able to tell others things they won't believe :P
Thanks
The cool down section is a bit vague but since this appears to be your first turbocharged vehicle, I can understand the confusion. Cool down does a couple of things; it allows the turbo to slow down and nearly stop spinning. If you shutdown a turbo that is spinning at 80k+, the oil that lubricates it and cools it will get coked and destroy the bearings the turbo rides on. Second if you have been working the engine by towing highway, things get quite toasty, so when idling, you cool the bearing and turbo itself because the engine runs cooler at idle. While at idle, oil circulates around the bearings cooling them off.
I think I wrote this in a confusing manner, but I hope it helps,
The 2.8L is now the only diesel being offered here or for export.
Hyundai does not use the 2.8L. Hyundai licenses a 2.0L diesel design.
I'm not sure if the CRD Limited has any pressure sensors at all, or only the basic system if the advanced system was not ordered. Does anyone else know?
Flying J has this site shows there selling price around the country, Note in the valley it dropped below 2.00 today.
http://www.flyingj.com/fuel/diesel_CF.cfm?state=ALL
Premium monitors the spare tire pressure. Base system does not monitor the spare tire pressure according to documentation of the system, however, owners at another Jeep KJ site have stated that the base system does monitor the spare tire. I only own the CRD Limited with the premium system so I can't say 100% who is correct about the base system spare tire monitoring.
You are supposed to have a sensor on the spare with either system.
On a positive note, everything that the owners manual said the fuse controls, doesn't work...just like the owners manual says...
He hosts the Report Your Local Gas Prices Here discussion in N&V and will be happy to accept reports about diesel prices.
Steve, Host
To clarify the question, eons ago, gasoline engines with carbs would suck the same amount of gas whether you are climbing or descending a hill, assuming the engine is revving at the same speed. I'm curious to know if these smarter cars are more economical. If a CRD is climbing a hill at 1800 rpm and uses "X" amount of fuel, would it also use the same "X" amount of fuel coasting at 1800 rpm, or would the computer sense that as much fuel wasn't needed and only inject a smaller amount? :confuse:
To clarify the question, eons ago, gasoline engines with carbs would suck the same amount of gas whether you are climbing or descending a hill, assuming the engine is revving at the same speed.
Even a Carb is load dependent and not RPM dependent. They WILL NOT get the same mileage up or down a hill unless you are going up the hill with the throttle closed. Maybe you are talking model T era? Carbs are dumb, but they aren't THAT dumb.
If you go up a hill with a CRD, the gas pedal will be pressed and the turbo will be making boost.
When you go down a hill at the same speed, the gas pedal won't be pressed and the turbo won't be making boost.
The mileage will be a Lot greater going downhill, maybe double.
At any rate, my EVIC is working correctly for the road tires but keeps telling me I have a low pressure condition on the spare, which I know is not correct! As noted in my original posting, the tire that is now the spare was a road tire and everything worked/displayed correctly until I switched them and now I can't convince the EVIC that the spare is correctly inflacted. Interesting. And annoying. Any ideas?
P.S.
I get 23.5mpg combined and 25.2 mph highway.
Is the fuel filter and fuel/water separator unit...one and the same?
If not, can someone direct me to the locdation of the fuel filter?
I'm going to be using B20 and would like a sparee fuel filter in the car in case it glogs-up.
Thanks in advance