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Are the TSB's listed on any web site?
And if you ask nicely, sometimes a service manager will print one out for you.
Steve, Host
There were a few posts waaaay back describing two ways to drain the filter canister. As described, you will need to either 1) remove the filter and sensor as a unit or 2) unscrew the combination water sensor plug from the bottom of the filter after removing the electrical connector.
Method 1 involves disconnecting all electrical connectors and hoses that are in the way so the filter can be unscrewed. The filter is simply dumped into a suitable container to look for water in the fuel, reinstalled and everything reconnected.
Method 2 involves removing the 2 mounting bolts attaching the entire unit to the fire wall and lifting it up to access the sensor. This method requires a transmission funnel to be placed under the filter down through the open area under the filter into a container under the vehicle.
I used the second method. My hoses and wires were long enough to lift the assembly up toward the engine with the top engine cover removed. I did not find any water in the drained fuel. There is a bleed screw on top of the filter assembly that may or may not have a purpose for draining the filter. Someone said it did need to be opened.
A third option (if your hand is small enough) might be to unplug the electrical connector on the sensor and unscrew it letting the fuel run on the ground and maybe the vehicle. The problem with this is you will not know how much water you have in the drained fuel.
The final step after putting everything back is to push the plunger on the filter assembly 15 or 20 times and start the engine. It will die. Do this again and it will keep running.
Thanks, again.
Can't find any B-diesel fuel in western Ohio, who sells it?
Steve said where to go but you don't get details unless you pay. I just visit my Chrysler-Jeep Dealer they are very good about doing the right thing. I went to the service department and asked the question about the shifting issue. The service manager said he remember reading something on this and then got the copy of the TSB from the desk and even let me read it. Since the return line filter change I haven't had the problem.
I also asked several other questions about the CRD maintenance training received by the mechanics. They have (6) CRD certified mechanics. Which when you think about it, this dealership is a in a town about 18,000, so that is alot. I'm sure I could have gotten a little deal, but having a dealer that will go the extra mile is worth something.
www.Biodiesel.org
Go to, Buying Biodiesel and click on , Retail locations.
LK
No holes to drill. There were (2) of the insert nuts to install at the transmission/transfer case support and it used (2) of the bolts holding on the front skid plate. The plate has re-enforcing ribs or looks like tubes between the single layer ends. There are a couple of tabs that go into the front cross member, with a hole to gain access to the drip pan drain. It covers the oil filter from the bottom but I think the exposure is to the right side, or at least I think it too much, time will tell, but don't tell Murphy.
Thanks for the Biodiesel link!
Well, I’m not sure that is such a bad Idea related to water but it is also a fuel filter. I’ve read so much about water and contaminants in diesel fuel that I’m paranoid and drain my filter at each oil change (6k). So far after 2 drains, all I’ve got from the filter is clean waterless diesel fuel. I have been buying the cheapest fuel I can find at newer stations and my mileage is great. The fuel filter is fairly large and due to the sensor design it will not take much water to set off the sensor – assuming it works okay. However, if you fuel up and drive 10 or 15 miles and the water in fuel warning light comes on, you might have just got fuel with a lot of water and need to go directly to a shop or drain it yourself along the highway. And, this is independent of the mileage on the fuel filter.
Does it really need to be changed every 12k? That seems excessive!
Yes, that does seems excessive, especially when the owner’s manual says to change the fuel filter at 25k miles. I think the manufacturer would err on the side of caution – so, at least 25k. Caribou1 made a very convincing argument for going a lot further based on fuel flow calculations. I will change my fuel filter at 25k and cut it open to inspect it for contaminants. After that I may go longer.
checking fuel system lines for damage would be warranted. how ever i d be more apt to to thinking cavatation by air intering the system at some point. or a drop in fuel pressure (which is poss. but not likely) for it would tend to cause a longer lasting effect.
these common rail fuel systems tend to sometimes run fuel pressures upward to 24,000 psi along with the pulse discharge injection system, meaning the injectors actually fire 3 times per cycle 2 pilot injections prior to the main injection. i would think if there was a problem with fuel delivery pressures that the ecu would have a built code to detect this. as these high pressure systems are not very forgiving.and pump failure would most certainly happen. keep us informed please.... gw
Westie
What is the basis for very short service intervals? I bought this vehicle to tow occasionally, go off pavement on difficult roads/weather and to save money not to buy it gifts that it doesn't need. Until I find evidence of "crud" in my fuel (and I'm going to look hard for it) I'm going to follow the service intervals recommended by the manufacturer. The "teenie-tiny itsy-bitsy injector nozzles" are one reason you don't need to change the filter every ten minutes. There just is not that much fuel going through these filters.
Question. Are you mashing the accelerator pedal when you accelerate? If so do not. You do not need to take the engine past 2500 - 2800 RPM while accelerating. Also, I have been blowing the EGR's nose weekly. To do this, make sure the engine is fully warmed up. Lock out the O/D. From a stop, mash the gas, taking it to about 60 mph. You may get some smoke, but this will clear out the EGR. Caribou1 shared this trick with me.
:sick:
Thank You for the additional prodding.
Another possible contributor to the EGR issue might be the oil. It may be coming apart and vaporizing in larger quanties than the EGR can handle, thus contributing to the problem. I have switched over to a different brand of 5W-40 oil that has a very low evaporation rate.
- Shift into gear at low (idling) rpm,
- Keep the engine under load,
- Accelerate from low rpm until turbo boost starts,
- Shift into higher gear asap.
This way of driving guarantees perfect clogging even with european diesel fuel!
The automatic tranny we have is programmed not to do this. But we still need to push the engine just a little bit to make shure it stays clean.
Certainly no codes have popped up and probably never will. If having the fuel lines checked and the fuel filter changed make a difference, I will be letting everyone know.
I am in central Indiana.
On another note. I tried the blow-out of the EGR with the 0-60 acceleration mentioned earlier today. I never realized how much fast the CRD accelerates with the OD off. Though I had a different vehicle. :shades:
I hope the bucking goes away. Methinks I won't baby it through the shifts anymore but that will be a tough habit fuel a fuel-conserver like myself to break...
Wrangler Diesel
I think you might be right....I'll check it out tomorrow and let you know...
There seems to be a logic break when discussing fuel filters. I cannot prevent a filter clog caused by bad fuel by changing the filter before I get the bad fuel. I can only deal with it after it happens.
Changing the filter once a year or once a week will not prevent you from getting a load of slimy dirty fuel that clogs a filter. You or I could still get a load of bad fuel sometime. The rest of the time there is reasonably good fuel going through the filter with maybe some impurities being trapped in the filter.
After I drive 25k miles I will have only put about 1k gallons through what looks to me like a relatively large filter. There is no relief valve or bypass valve in this filter. If there is dirt in the fuel it will not go through the filter. The high pressure side of the fuel system is after the filter, not before, so dirt cannot be forced through the filter.
However, you have convinced me to carry a new filter in case of a clog when I go on the road. And, I agree the fuel tank should have a drain.
Wrangler Diesel
When I did my car shopping, I looked at new Wranglers. The Wranglers with the features I wanted (a hardtop) were more expensive than the Liberty diesel, smaller and got worse gas mileage. I'd think the diesel engine on the Wrangler would drive the price up even further.
I like the Liberty now that I've got it.
However, I still consider the Wrangler more of a "real" Jeep.
I'm really wondering what kind of vehicle that Jeep will come out with as the new Wrangler. Maybe it will be a shrunken Liberty with higher ground clearance.
I would recommend to do this starting with a full tank to feel more comfortable and not hear the refill chime when in the middle of nowhere :sick:
Carrying a spare fuel filter sounds like a good idea, but if you end up with a bad load of fuel that ruins the filter in situ, then pulling the tank, draining and cleaning it, along with the fuel line going to the filter is in order. I would like to see a better means of draining the filter without having to make the mess it is going to be if and when I do it. My old Isuzu had a similar setup but there was a petcock and a short hose for draining water out of the filter without having to remove any sensors. Was very slick and simple. The system they have on now is meant for European consumption. Their diesel fuel is of better quality than ours and is much cleaner to boot. Getting water and dirt in diesel in Europe does happen, but not to the extent it does here.