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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Thanks, Caribou1 for the web sites. I have been looking at these sites for a while and that may be the way to go. My first choice would be a molded hose that only requires one clamp on each end. However, the "Hump" hose has some potential when connected to steel tubing. I'm not sure I want to go any higher that 8 clamps which might be required with a build-a-hose system - but if it holds up... Referencing Winter2, I need to start working on this in earnest fairly soon.
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    Crdnot,

    I also purchase my CRD to pull my camper, an 18ft Zoom 718FD(56 sq-ft frontal area) which weights 4428# loaded, leaving the remaining 600# for passengers and cargo thus maxing out the tow capacity of the CRD. I had it written in the purchase contract that the CRD could pull my camper. If this F37, which mine has had, changes things I will know tomorrow as I am taking the trailer on a month long trip. I won't be able to log on for a week, but I will follow-up on the results. I will be pissed if it can't pull it. I have over 39,000 miles on mine. It could pull very well before (F37) and still got 16+ mpg.
    The torque converter of the 545RFE had or has a plastic stator when originally built, maybe its be changed to a metal one as these plastic ones failed behind the Hemi's

    Farout,

    Did DCX ever replace the wiring harness? Because that is what connects all of the sensors to the computer, if its bad, many many things will not work or operate correctly. I bring this up because my boss had his Escape's (company car)wire harness damaged by squirrel's and he had major problems with everything. Harness was replaced and it work once again. (It was one of the first units delivered as we were a supplier to Ford and got one of the first 200 units.
    So, maybe it was just the harness??

    I just my recall notice on the ball joints, which was done months ago - is there another one??
  • budsjpbudsjp Posts: 25
    You may recall my earlier email reporting my wiring harness was replaced after getting repeated readouts that various items were faulty, second or third time around. The tech shook the harness and the engine died - he repeated that a number of times with the same result. He tried to find the short but couldn't and wound up with practically an all day job replacing the harness. I'd guess a less interested tech wouldn't want to do that tedious job. I have another 10k on the truck since with absolutely no problems. So, I second your idea of checking for a faulty wiring harness.

    Have not done the F37 because my service manager suggests it may cause more problems than it solves.
  • I agree that a lot of the electrical problems may be associated with faulty wiring harnesses. I had mine on the March build 2006 CRD changed at 1050 miles and have had not more problems. Prior to having the wiring harness changed, the jeep was in the shop 5 times for problems with the electronic throttle warning.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    zoomy2: The dealer and DCX apparently felt they did not want to expend any more efforts in attempting to find the root of the problems. I can't say they were willing to try any thing anymore. The Service manager refused to allow this CRD to use any more of the diesel Tech's time up. Frankly, we gave up too. I did not to spend any more of our time and fuel to keep trying more attempting fixes. Hope your CRD works well with your TR.

    farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Farout, you live in a beautiful region where you should have plenty of these little computer harness predators: they are the MARTENS!
    http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/land/er/factsheets/mammals/Marten.htm

    We have weasels and shrews here as well. The only way to keep them far from your home is to have a pet that chases them out of it's territory, including your vehicle. I know shrews appreciate the air filter housing of my motorcycle :sick:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I've been pulling timber in 4WD-LO without stopping the engine for several periods of 2 to 4 hours. The truck handles very accurately in acrobatic situations/positions and the oil pan is well designed to never allow for any sign of engine oil pressure drop. As long as gravity alone keeps me into my seat, there is oil available for the pump, even during long periods. I had never read this anywhere. ;)

    Exhaust fumes were saturated with unburnt fuel after each piece of timber was extracted from the woods. The full load on the engine was never more than 3 minutes. My observation is the following:
    - if we need to produce such efforts, we should rapidly get the catalyser warm again to get rid of the unburnt fuel because the heat produced by a long idling period alone can't manage this :sick:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    I have bookmarked both of these sites and will research them further. I am still more interested in a braided stainless steel hoses if I can find them.

    The hose exiting the turbocharger has some oil seepage above the clamp site. Not a good sign. Feels a little soft too, also not a good sign.

    The hose that goes from the aftercooler to the intake remains in place with the gasket cement helping quite a bit. No oil on the outside of this hose.

    Did notice something that could be crucial. This engine requires 6.4 quarts of oil. Do not add more than that. The oil ends up in the hoses of the intake system. It is possible that even a little bit of extra oil could be over pressuring the system or could be causing foaming leading to increased leakage past seals (too much pressure) or lack of lubrication (from the foaming). I inadvertently added a touch too much oil and hoses that were dry know have some oil in them.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Caribou1: We don't have these little MARTENS yet. However. just in the last two years we have Armadillo's that have moved into our area. This is new in Missouri in the last decade.
    We have had a squirrell's who have stored acorns under the hood of our 1996 Dodge Neon.

    farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Winter2,
    Before you decide which type of replacement hose you buy, consider the movement of the engine and the effort needed at the mounting point. Braided hoses are very stiff for mating two ports facing each other because of a material compression effort made greater by the brading. I find these perfect for more than 75 degree assemblies where the 'flowing' movement of the material is already released from mounting stresses. In this case, the longer the hose, the less you will worry about it. A longer hose will also accomodate a slight twist.
  • kathekathe Posts: 2
    I just traded my 2005 CRD Limited. I just got tired of all the service visits, the shudder, the fuel line problems, etc. and decided to bail. It had 43,000 mi. on it and the dealer gave me $14,500. It was in excellent shape in and out. I feel weak, but hope I will like my Nitro better. :sick:
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    crdnot...

    Thanks for sharing your legwork in this matter as you seem to share my sentiments: No voluntary torque reductions w/o a compensatory remedy (or buyback).

    Your use of the term "drivetrain" made me curious until you talked about your differential failure. During my self-done "12,400 mi" service, the original, used rear differential lubricant sucked out was quite burned. The alternate 80W-140 specified for CRDs used to tow was the replacement oil (w/ the requisite anti-slip additive, of course).

    I'm almost to 25,000 mi. and it will be interesting to see what the condition of the used oil is again. I'll take your experience to heart and perhaps I'll need to take things farther like you did. Good luck.
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    Yeah...

    And don't forget the drivetrain warranty is halved beyond 2005 ;)
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    They become porous and spongy with time and exposure to heat and the oil vapors...

    Sounds like politicians too :mad:
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Farout: Did you get your replacement vehicle yet? I am still in limbo. I guess I need to just play the waiting game. Hamchamp
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    Been a while since I posted or even came in the bd room here. Just to report, my 06 CRD Sport with just close to 15,000 miles had the ball joint and tranny recall performed last week. Well, the week of March 19th they did the ball joints then waited for over a week to get in a new torque converter. The whole transmission was rebuilt by the Dodge dealer's Viper/Cummins certified technician. The tech has been there for over 30 years so I had confidence in his work and quality.
    Well, the shudder at 50, even with a brand spanking new trans is still there! What are we to do?
    I was hoping to keep this little thing around and run it into the ground, but now I'm seriously considering trading it in when Toyota puts a CAT in it's Tundra. I didn't need a big truck, because well I'm not in that line of work. I just see that with Toyota's reputation for quality and CAT being the best diesels around maybe that's the way to go. Well, happy motoring, hope all is well with everyone in here.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hamchamp: We thought we would get the Compass on Monday, but the paper work was sent to the auditor, and we are just waiting for them to say go get it. The waiting is a hard thing to go through. Everything DCX said has been exactally as we were told. The Compass is ready to take home we just need the final ok, which better be soon.....we hope.

    farout
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Interest in what auditor. DCX, IGS, or your personal auditor?
    Hamchamp
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hamchamp: It was the ISG auditor. We pick up the Compass to night. The end result was very fair. DCX replaced the extra patrs we had installed and paid the have the same put on the Compass. From the time we were told DCX was going to replace our CRD it has been 6 weeks. Here is the best part the DCX Customer Care line was who suggested the buy back to us! So the program works!

    Farout
  • anomiousanomious Posts: 170
    Hi! Just had the ball joints and torque convertor replaced on my "05" with 11700 miles. So far everything feels great! Still has "jump" and passing acceleration. The shift points are still the same too. Fifth gear around 55MPH. No shuddering at all. Wish you the best! I'll keep y'all posted!
    ;) LK
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Farout, Thanks for the auditor information. Every bit is helpful. We wish you godspeed with your new vehicle. :) Patience is what I am working on. LOL LOL. I will keep you posted with my progress. The Jeep on a Heap :sick: has been at the dealership 68 days and 68 nights. We are looking forward to a replacement. :shades: A Dakota Quad. Hamchamp
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    Towing after F37. I didn't notice any problems. It pulled just fine. In lower gears, pulling a hill, the overheating (gage going past center) didn't happen.
    A section of the trip on two-lane in-which we drove 56-57 mph in what I will call 4th gear at 1850 RPM ran with cruise control and got 20.6 MPG!!! (I do want to say I had a tail wind) I think I am going to change the way I pull the trailer. With this kind of mileage it is worth it, stay out of OD and go just over 55. My CRD will not go into overdrive until 59 MPH. I will have to check again on the next two-lane section.
    Now it did jump down a gear a couple of times for a slight dip in the road, don't know why - RPM jump to 2600 and then shifted back.
    On acceration I applied enough throttle for 2400 RPM, before I use to have to get to 2800 RPM before it would shift through the gears. So this appears to be a good thing (F37 recall). :D
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hamchamp: We did pick up our Compass on April 4th. When we drove up the dealer re parked it and ISG & DCX have a large notice that this vehicle is not to be moved by anyone execpt the DCX driver who will be picking it up. From the dealer it goes to some central place to see if any bugs can be worked out and then to the auction with a buy back title, and 12,000 mile warranty.
    The final results in mileage paid turned out to $ .05 cents a mile. DCX felt we had been very much inconvienced, and said they were very sorry several times. after it was all said and done and the mileage was deducted, and the CRD was paid off we had about $300. that was applied toward the Compass. After ISG gets a paid in full lein release we get our title on the Compass, which we were told would be two weeks or so.
    Our first jaunt in the Compass got 23.4 mpg. The Compass has as much or more pick up that our CRD had, certianly better mpg. Diesel here is $2.90 and gas is $2.63. It seemed strange not to go to the diesel pump.
    Are you any closer to getting your truck? I am very pleased our situation with DCX worked out as well as it did. Hope you can get your situation resolved quickly.

    farout
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Farout, Great news for you. I am happy that you received your Compass. Also, thank you for the information about the odyssey you traveled to obtain the Compass. DCX did well by you. I still have 20 more business days, per ISG, at the most, but I will post when I get more information. Your possession of the new Compass is very encouraging to me . Happy Easter. hamchamp
  • playgabeplaygabe Posts: 31
    My thoughts on the shifting down was due to the lowering of the HP the engine puts out. I'm sure you will see that the pulling power up hills is reduced and that is why I'm not getting the recall done. My dealer agrees with me. If I was not pulling a trailer I'd have the recall done but pulling over Mtn's (continental Divide) and others I want all the power I paid for when we purchased the CRD. Our MPG have been 19 pulling at 60-65MPH and 26-27 not towing. So far no problems with the engine or trans.
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    i would probably have the recall if not the crd will tear up the torque converter and it will through pieces of it through your tranny i couldn't tell any difference in power the europeans have had less power all along and get along great we are just spoiled over here
  • Has anyone had a problem with their belt tensioner and squeaking in the front end? I have had the belt tensioner replaced, alternator and the serpentine belt (twice). Now, about 10-12k miles later I notice it is starting to squeak again like the first go-around.

    Should I just dress the belt and move on or are others having this repeat problem and I need to take it to the shop?

    Boiler
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Sounds like something is not lined up properly. With the engine off take a straight edge and check the alignment of your pulleys. They didn't correct the problem, just the effect. Good Luck.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Boiler, observe the belt and look for shiny areas on the tensionner and the pulleys. My belt is not really tight but does not slip. Do you use an additional light bar or accessories that could load the alternator? Have you been in the water?
  • wheetwheet Posts: 1
    I wanted to reply to your Shudder at 50. We have a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD. The shudder at 50, most noticeable on days when the temp was below 40 degrees, drove us crazy. After many many trips to the Dealer where we bought it..the shudder was still there. We finally brought it to a Dealer in Maine and they worked with a DaimlerChrysler Rep and they determined it was the ECM. Since they replaced the ECM, it has not shuddered once. Thought this may be something they would want to check into.
    Wheet
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    "the crd will tear up the torque converter and it will throw pieces of it through your tranny"

    Then, it will grow fangs...

    Everybody knows that less is more in Europe- it's the only way Europeans can feel greatness at all. Sadly though, less is less.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Bullhead,
    I'm sure you know there is a subtil difference between asking for more and being asked for more. All high-tech products are designed to stay on "the cutting edge of the razor". You can sometimes use larger equipment for a given task, but what do you do with it the rest of the time? You pay for that little extra you once needed. I think this is a major difference between both sides of the pond.
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    caribou1...

    I not only get your point, but feel the same way about all the HUGE pickup trucks with 6.9 and 7.3 liter diesels I see. It's funny; my brother bought an early 90's Dodge diesel and I believe it has a 4.7l non-turbo and it easily pulls more than I ever need (almost). It's still in service, too. However, everyone needs to know their best compromise. A 1.4l VW diesel is quite sufficient for only commuting and a 2.5l CRD Liberty is more than. We're still conquering our landscape here in the Western U.S., however, so some extra pulling power is often very sensible.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Bullhead,
    I've been using my Jeep for pulling trees out of a private piece of land. I've pulled about 12 cubic meters of wood out of the forest and stacked it along a country road. This is roughly 23 trees of 15 to 20 meters long, and there (was)is a steep 4 foot climb at the edge of the terrain. Our truck is limited by it's mass (not heavy enough), it's ground clearance, it's driver's high viewpoint and small mirrors (in this case) but not by it's power nor precision of handling when balancing on two diagonally opposed wheels. It's a grown-up's toy :blush:
    The cost of this exercise is:
    - Front 'bumper' :confuse: and right wheel cover cut the plastic rivets right off: they were too close to the ground when the truck was at it's maximum angle of approach-departure.
    - Two right hand side doors are pushed in by 4" and the door steps as well. The side view mirrors don't reach down enough and when the engine roars, you can't hear or feel the body giving in! This was a bit of a surprise.
    - This engine is a camel. It takes less than 3 quarts of fuel per hour!
    Now that the exercise is over, I find my truck a bit oversized when I park it along my colleague's vehicles ;)

    Last observation: the tail lights are made of acrylic glass or it's equivalent. But why make them so thin? I also broke one without any sign of warning. The tinted material is less than 1/16" thick!
    Without any intention of going rock climbing, I believe the truck could be a little less flashy and better suited to enjoy the transfer case and the power of the diesel engine.
  • 13301330 Posts: 6
    Anybody know of a way to monitor the gear you are in with a meter or gauge? There should be a way to read voltage for the different gears the tranny is in. It would be useful when determining the rpm/accelerator pressure to apply for max mpg. Had a VW Touareg which had gear indicator on the dash. Very handy info.
  • Hi Zoomy,
    I have a 2006 CRD ( build date Feb.2006 ) My CRD was not recalled for the "F37" recall...I can't get below 2000 rpm's in 4th gear at 56-57 miles per hour towing nothing :confuse: My crd in overdrive at 70 miles per hour is just a "fuzz" over 2000 rpm !! Is this about right ?? Planing on getting a Casita travel trailer in oct. any thoughts ??
    thanks,
    Skeeter
  • mike6206mike6206 Posts: 35
    I'd like to know how the CRD is doing when you use a 15W40 dino or synthetic blend oil. The reason is that Conklin sells a 15W40 ParaSynthetic oil under the Conklin CONVOY label and I was told by Conklin that it would work in the CRD. ;)
  • nescosmonescosmo Posts: 453
    Mike..... If you change your 15w-40 dino every 5k or less, i see no reason why it shouldn't work. If i were you i would use Chevron Delo 400. One of the best.

    Nescosmo.
  • mike6206mike6206 Posts: 35
    Nescosmo,

    I just wondered because I'm thinking of going into a deal where I can sell Conklin's Lubes and car care products and I starting by trying thier additive Diesel Plus with the cleaner 4 Power, their auto tranny fluid, ATF XTRA PLUS 4, etc. I think that while the Mobil Delvac 1 is working, let it stay my oil. This link, http://www.conklin.com/pg.asp?p=6 will show their line of products.
  • lakelvrlakelvr Posts: 21
    What and where is the "boost pressure solenoid filter" that is in the maintenance schedule and hopefully on my engine. Have an '05 w/F23 & F37 and zero problems @ 27k. Last trip of 4k from the flatlands to the Rockies got 30.9mpg going out to Crested Butte and 29.5 overall but that is at 1780rpm. Had a need for speed last week and got 16.6mpg @ 78mph for a 225 mi. trip one way. Very satisfied so far but last week had to use chains to navigate back road snow and there wasn't much room in wheel well for them.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Two companies I know of make fully synthetic 15W-40 oil. They are Amsoil and RedLine. I have used Amsoil's 15W-40 in my CRD last year and when I change oil later this month, I will use it again for the warmer weather. It has the same flow characteristics as Mobil 1 5W-40 and Shell Rotella 5W-40. However, it is more heat resistant and has a significantly lower rate of vaporization than either of the two aforementioned oils, thus keeping the intake system and EGR cleaner.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Look behind the air cleaner box. It is hanging on a short black rubber hose. It looks like a fuel filter of many years ago.

    As for chains, you can only put them on the rear wheels and they need to be "S" class.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Winter2, when you put chains on the front wheels, you get assistance for traction, braking and steering. A bonus of having the chains up front is the widening of the tracks made for the rear wheels. I learned this from a local 4X4 club. I must admit it makes sense because I drove my truck in deep heavy snow and I noticed that comes a time the steering assistance no longer works. And you are stuck (I was) :(
    When chains are up front, your front wheels can easily move the snow away from the sidewalls and it's a bit simpler to move in any direction. The torque takes good care of that: you don't need to wind up the engine to get moving.
    But of course, this is for non drive able conditions, when schools close for several days.
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    i have several customers who use amsoil 15-40 and no problems i use 5-30 series 3000 and it works fine like i have said before i think the crd is bullet proof it is all the bull hanging on it
  • crddudecrddude Posts: 6
    Well,

    I just had the ball joints, tourque convertor and a stuck egr valve serviced. Now the engine seems to run a little rougher and the mileage fell from 32 to 26 mpg highway. Also hear a rush of air from the engine during acceleration at around 2k rpms. Hmmmm....

    2005 Liberty Diesel Owner.
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    caribou1: I could be wrong, bit I think chaining up the front on an Independent Front Suspension is a no-no. I did that on my Montero during a hunting trip and was replacing Idler and Pitman arms plus the drag link soon after. Look in the Liberty owner's manual for answer. I will still use the more-tame cable chains on the front as it becomes necessary.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Bullhead,
    I bought these KOENIG SUV chains and tried them on my rear wheels one day:
    http://www.konig.it/SchedaProd.aspx?ID=139

    The deep profile of my BFG T/A tires gave me the same digging ability as when using chains. I find these tires far better than common chains in heavy snow.
    In fluffy snow using T/A tires you're on dry pavement! But the law imposes chains on certain alpine roads :sick:

    I believe 75% of our local vehicles have front wheel drive, and they must all use chains on mountain roads!

    The same law forces me to use 225x75x16 to have the proper load index and not to destroy the lining in the wheel wells. The 235x70x16 has a lower load index than the 225.

    All this to say we should be able to put the chains up front without destroying anything. But surely avoid 'ladder' chains that produce repeated impacts on the suspension. If they had not been so expensive, I would like to have 'honeycomb' chains. They provide constant mesh.
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    Got internet access again, maybe a laptop should be on my wish list with a wireless connection.

    Boy these CRD's sure don't shift the same. Mine goes into OD at 59 and 1950 RPM.

    I don't think that you should have any problems pulling a Casita travel trailer; 16' & 17' models have a axle weight capacity of 3500#, the 13' is 2200#. They are shaped more like an Airstream so they should pull easy and being only 6'8" wide.... I looked at the 16" Freedom and Liberty models, I just didn't like the single axle. Load weight balance is more important as it will induce sway if not loaded properly.
    I have see alot of these campers out there and their owners really like them.
    Question: What does you CRD's RPM at 60MPH or 62MPH? Trailer tires are only rated for max. speed of 65MPH, so towing you what to stay under this speed.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Synlubes,

    I sent the specs for the 5W-30 series 3000 oil to V.M. Motori for their input and they shot it down except for use in cold weather. The message was that it was too thin for use in the engine at temperatures exceeding 40 degrees Fahrenheit.

    I like the 15W-40 because of the very low vaporization rate. The hoses from the turbo to aftercooler, and aftercooler to intake stayed pretty dry and clean.
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    I have considered getting "S class" chains for all of the wheels but there does not appear to be enough space between the inside of the tire and the front suspension for a chain to fit through reliably. There is plenty of room in the rear.

    I agree with you however that putting chains on all four wheels is ideal.
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