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I also purchase my CRD to pull my camper, an 18ft Zoom 718FD(56 sq-ft frontal area) which weights 4428# loaded, leaving the remaining 600# for passengers and cargo thus maxing out the tow capacity of the CRD. I had it written in the purchase contract that the CRD could pull my camper. If this F37, which mine has had, changes things I will know tomorrow as I am taking the trailer on a month long trip. I won't be able to log on for a week, but I will follow-up on the results. I will be pissed if it can't pull it. I have over 39,000 miles on mine. It could pull very well before (F37) and still got 16+ mpg.
The torque converter of the 545RFE had or has a plastic stator when originally built, maybe its be changed to a metal one as these plastic ones failed behind the Hemi's
Farout,
Did DCX ever replace the wiring harness? Because that is what connects all of the sensors to the computer, if its bad, many many things will not work or operate correctly. I bring this up because my boss had his Escape's (company car)wire harness damaged by squirrel's and he had major problems with everything. Harness was replaced and it work once again. (It was one of the first units delivered as we were a supplier to Ford and got one of the first 200 units.
So, maybe it was just the harness??
I just my recall notice on the ball joints, which was done months ago - is there another one??
Have not done the F37 because my service manager suggests it may cause more problems than it solves.
farout
http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/land/er/factsheets/mammals/Marten.htm
We have weasels and shrews here as well. The only way to keep them far from your home is to have a pet that chases them out of it's territory, including your vehicle. I know shrews appreciate the air filter housing of my motorcycle :sick:
Exhaust fumes were saturated with unburnt fuel after each piece of timber was extracted from the woods. The full load on the engine was never more than 3 minutes. My observation is the following:
- if we need to produce such efforts, we should rapidly get the catalyser warm again to get rid of the unburnt fuel because the heat produced by a long idling period alone can't manage this :sick:
I have bookmarked both of these sites and will research them further. I am still more interested in a braided stainless steel hoses if I can find them.
The hose exiting the turbocharger has some oil seepage above the clamp site. Not a good sign. Feels a little soft too, also not a good sign.
The hose that goes from the aftercooler to the intake remains in place with the gasket cement helping quite a bit. No oil on the outside of this hose.
Did notice something that could be crucial. This engine requires 6.4 quarts of oil. Do not add more than that. The oil ends up in the hoses of the intake system. It is possible that even a little bit of extra oil could be over pressuring the system or could be causing foaming leading to increased leakage past seals (too much pressure) or lack of lubrication (from the foaming). I inadvertently added a touch too much oil and hoses that were dry know have some oil in them.
We have had a squirrell's who have stored acorns under the hood of our 1996 Dodge Neon.
farout
Before you decide which type of replacement hose you buy, consider the movement of the engine and the effort needed at the mounting point. Braided hoses are very stiff for mating two ports facing each other because of a material compression effort made greater by the brading. I find these perfect for more than 75 degree assemblies where the 'flowing' movement of the material is already released from mounting stresses. In this case, the longer the hose, the less you will worry about it. A longer hose will also accomodate a slight twist.
Thanks for sharing your legwork in this matter as you seem to share my sentiments: No voluntary torque reductions w/o a compensatory remedy (or buyback).
Your use of the term "drivetrain" made me curious until you talked about your differential failure. During my self-done "12,400 mi" service, the original, used rear differential lubricant sucked out was quite burned. The alternate 80W-140 specified for CRDs used to tow was the replacement oil (w/ the requisite anti-slip additive, of course).
I'm almost to 25,000 mi. and it will be interesting to see what the condition of the used oil is again. I'll take your experience to heart and perhaps I'll need to take things farther like you did. Good luck.
And don't forget the drivetrain warranty is halved beyond 2005
Sounds like politicians too :mad:
Well, the shudder at 50, even with a brand spanking new trans is still there! What are we to do?
I was hoping to keep this little thing around and run it into the ground, but now I'm seriously considering trading it in when Toyota puts a CAT in it's Tundra. I didn't need a big truck, because well I'm not in that line of work. I just see that with Toyota's reputation for quality and CAT being the best diesels around maybe that's the way to go. Well, happy motoring, hope all is well with everyone in here.
farout
Hamchamp
Farout
LK
A section of the trip on two-lane in-which we drove 56-57 mph in what I will call 4th gear at 1850 RPM ran with cruise control and got 20.6 MPG!!! (I do want to say I had a tail wind) I think I am going to change the way I pull the trailer. With this kind of mileage it is worth it, stay out of OD and go just over 55. My CRD will not go into overdrive until 59 MPH. I will have to check again on the next two-lane section.
Now it did jump down a gear a couple of times for a slight dip in the road, don't know why - RPM jump to 2600 and then shifted back.
On acceration I applied enough throttle for 2400 RPM, before I use to have to get to 2800 RPM before it would shift through the gears. So this appears to be a good thing (F37 recall).
The final results in mileage paid turned out to $ .05 cents a mile. DCX felt we had been very much inconvienced, and said they were very sorry several times. after it was all said and done and the mileage was deducted, and the CRD was paid off we had about $300. that was applied toward the Compass. After ISG gets a paid in full lein release we get our title on the Compass, which we were told would be two weeks or so.
Our first jaunt in the Compass got 23.4 mpg. The Compass has as much or more pick up that our CRD had, certianly better mpg. Diesel here is $2.90 and gas is $2.63. It seemed strange not to go to the diesel pump.
Are you any closer to getting your truck? I am very pleased our situation with DCX worked out as well as it did. Hope you can get your situation resolved quickly.
farout
Should I just dress the belt and move on or are others having this repeat problem and I need to take it to the shop?
Boiler
Wheet
Then, it will grow fangs...
Everybody knows that less is more in Europe- it's the only way Europeans can feel greatness at all. Sadly though, less is less.
I'm sure you know there is a subtil difference between asking for more and being asked for more. All high-tech products are designed to stay on "the cutting edge of the razor". You can sometimes use larger equipment for a given task, but what do you do with it the rest of the time? You pay for that little extra you once needed. I think this is a major difference between both sides of the pond.
I not only get your point, but feel the same way about all the HUGE pickup trucks with 6.9 and 7.3 liter diesels I see. It's funny; my brother bought an early 90's Dodge diesel and I believe it has a 4.7l non-turbo and it easily pulls more than I ever need (almost). It's still in service, too. However, everyone needs to know their best compromise. A 1.4l VW diesel is quite sufficient for only commuting and a 2.5l CRD Liberty is more than. We're still conquering our landscape here in the Western U.S., however, so some extra pulling power is often very sensible.
I've been using my Jeep for pulling trees out of a private piece of land. I've pulled about 12 cubic meters of wood out of the forest and stacked it along a country road. This is roughly 23 trees of 15 to 20 meters long, and there (was)is a steep 4 foot climb at the edge of the terrain. Our truck is limited by it's mass (not heavy enough), it's ground clearance, it's driver's high viewpoint and small mirrors (in this case) but not by it's power nor precision of handling when balancing on two diagonally opposed wheels. It's a grown-up's toy
The cost of this exercise is:
- Front 'bumper' :confuse: and right wheel cover cut the plastic rivets right off: they were too close to the ground when the truck was at it's maximum angle of approach-departure.
- Two right hand side doors are pushed in by 4" and the door steps as well. The side view mirrors don't reach down enough and when the engine roars, you can't hear or feel the body giving in! This was a bit of a surprise.
- This engine is a camel. It takes less than 3 quarts of fuel per hour!
Now that the exercise is over, I find my truck a bit oversized when I park it along my colleague's vehicles
Last observation: the tail lights are made of acrylic glass or it's equivalent. But why make them so thin? I also broke one without any sign of warning. The tinted material is less than 1/16" thick!
Without any intention of going rock climbing, I believe the truck could be a little less flashy and better suited to enjoy the transfer case and the power of the diesel engine.
I have a 2006 CRD ( build date Feb.2006 ) My CRD was not recalled for the "F37" recall...I can't get below 2000 rpm's in 4th gear at 56-57 miles per hour towing nothing :confuse: My crd in overdrive at 70 miles per hour is just a "fuzz" over 2000 rpm !! Is this about right ?? Planing on getting a Casita travel trailer in oct. any thoughts ??
thanks,
Skeeter
Nescosmo.
I just wondered because I'm thinking of going into a deal where I can sell Conklin's Lubes and car care products and I starting by trying thier additive Diesel Plus with the cleaner 4 Power, their auto tranny fluid, ATF XTRA PLUS 4, etc. I think that while the Mobil Delvac 1 is working, let it stay my oil. This link, http://www.conklin.com/pg.asp?p=6 will show their line of products.
As for chains, you can only put them on the rear wheels and they need to be "S" class.
When chains are up front, your front wheels can easily move the snow away from the sidewalls and it's a bit simpler to move in any direction. The torque takes good care of that: you don't need to wind up the engine to get moving.
But of course, this is for non drive able conditions, when schools close for several days.
I just had the ball joints, tourque convertor and a stuck egr valve serviced. Now the engine seems to run a little rougher and the mileage fell from 32 to 26 mpg highway. Also hear a rush of air from the engine during acceleration at around 2k rpms. Hmmmm....
2005 Liberty Diesel Owner.
I bought these KOENIG SUV chains and tried them on my rear wheels one day:
http://www.konig.it/SchedaProd.aspx?ID=139
The deep profile of my BFG T/A tires gave me the same digging ability as when using chains. I find these tires far better than common chains in heavy snow.
In fluffy snow using T/A tires you're on dry pavement! But the law imposes chains on certain alpine roads :sick:
I believe 75% of our local vehicles have front wheel drive, and they must all use chains on mountain roads!
The same law forces me to use 225x75x16 to have the proper load index and not to destroy the lining in the wheel wells. The 235x70x16 has a lower load index than the 225.
All this to say we should be able to put the chains up front without destroying anything. But surely avoid 'ladder' chains that produce repeated impacts on the suspension. If they had not been so expensive, I would like to have 'honeycomb' chains. They provide constant mesh.
Boy these CRD's sure don't shift the same. Mine goes into OD at 59 and 1950 RPM.
I don't think that you should have any problems pulling a Casita travel trailer; 16' & 17' models have a axle weight capacity of 3500#, the 13' is 2200#. They are shaped more like an Airstream so they should pull easy and being only 6'8" wide.... I looked at the 16" Freedom and Liberty models, I just didn't like the single axle. Load weight balance is more important as it will induce sway if not loaded properly.
I have see alot of these campers out there and their owners really like them.
Question: What does you CRD's RPM at 60MPH or 62MPH? Trailer tires are only rated for max. speed of 65MPH, so towing you what to stay under this speed.
I sent the specs for the 5W-30 series 3000 oil to V.M. Motori for their input and they shot it down except for use in cold weather. The message was that it was too thin for use in the engine at temperatures exceeding 40 degrees Fahrenheit.
I like the 15W-40 because of the very low vaporization rate. The hoses from the turbo to aftercooler, and aftercooler to intake stayed pretty dry and clean.
I have considered getting "S class" chains for all of the wheels but there does not appear to be enough space between the inside of the tire and the front suspension for a chain to fit through reliably. There is plenty of room in the rear.
I agree with you however that putting chains on all four wheels is ideal.