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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • siberiasiberia Posts: 520
    Thanks, Caribou1 for the web sites. I have been looking at these sites for a while and that may be the way to go. My first choice would be a molded hose that only requires one clamp on each end. However, the "Hump" hose has some potential when connected to steel tubing. I'm not sure I want to go any higher that 8 clamps which might be required with a build-a-hose system - but if it holds up... Referencing Winter2, I need to start working on this in earnest fairly soon.
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    Crdnot,

    I also purchase my CRD to pull my camper, an 18ft Zoom 718FD(56 sq-ft frontal area) which weights 4428# loaded, leaving the remaining 600# for passengers and cargo thus maxing out the tow capacity of the CRD. I had it written in the purchase contract that the CRD could pull my camper. If this F37, which mine has had, changes things I will know tomorrow as I am taking the trailer on a month long trip. I won't be able to log on for a week, but I will follow-up on the results. I will be pissed if it can't pull it. I have over 39,000 miles on mine. It could pull very well before (F37) and still got 16+ mpg.
    The torque converter of the 545RFE had or has a plastic stator when originally built, maybe its be changed to a metal one as these plastic ones failed behind the Hemi's

    Farout,

    Did DCX ever replace the wiring harness? Because that is what connects all of the sensors to the computer, if its bad, many many things will not work or operate correctly. I bring this up because my boss had his Escape's (company car)wire harness damaged by squirrel's and he had major problems with everything. Harness was replaced and it work once again. (It was one of the first units delivered as we were a supplier to Ford and got one of the first 200 units.
    So, maybe it was just the harness??

    I just my recall notice on the ball joints, which was done months ago - is there another one??
  • budsjpbudsjp Posts: 25
    You may recall my earlier email reporting my wiring harness was replaced after getting repeated readouts that various items were faulty, second or third time around. The tech shook the harness and the engine died - he repeated that a number of times with the same result. He tried to find the short but couldn't and wound up with practically an all day job replacing the harness. I'd guess a less interested tech wouldn't want to do that tedious job. I have another 10k on the truck since with absolutely no problems. So, I second your idea of checking for a faulty wiring harness.

    Have not done the F37 because my service manager suggests it may cause more problems than it solves.
  • agresearchagresearch Posts: 5
    I agree that a lot of the electrical problems may be associated with faulty wiring harnesses. I had mine on the March build 2006 CRD changed at 1050 miles and have had not more problems. Prior to having the wiring harness changed, the jeep was in the shop 5 times for problems with the electronic throttle warning.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    zoomy2: The dealer and DCX apparently felt they did not want to expend any more efforts in attempting to find the root of the problems. I can't say they were willing to try any thing anymore. The Service manager refused to allow this CRD to use any more of the diesel Tech's time up. Frankly, we gave up too. I did not to spend any more of our time and fuel to keep trying more attempting fixes. Hope your CRD works well with your TR.

    farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Farout, you live in a beautiful region where you should have plenty of these little computer harness predators: they are the MARTENS!
    http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/land/er/factsheets/mammals/Marten.htm

    We have weasels and shrews here as well. The only way to keep them far from your home is to have a pet that chases them out of it's territory, including your vehicle. I know shrews appreciate the air filter housing of my motorcycle :sick:
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    I've been pulling timber in 4WD-LO without stopping the engine for several periods of 2 to 4 hours. The truck handles very accurately in acrobatic situations/positions and the oil pan is well designed to never allow for any sign of engine oil pressure drop. As long as gravity alone keeps me into my seat, there is oil available for the pump, even during long periods. I had never read this anywhere. ;)

    Exhaust fumes were saturated with unburnt fuel after each piece of timber was extracted from the woods. The full load on the engine was never more than 3 minutes. My observation is the following:
    - if we need to produce such efforts, we should rapidly get the catalyser warm again to get rid of the unburnt fuel because the heat produced by a long idling period alone can't manage this :sick:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,801
    Caribou,

    I have bookmarked both of these sites and will research them further. I am still more interested in a braided stainless steel hoses if I can find them.

    The hose exiting the turbocharger has some oil seepage above the clamp site. Not a good sign. Feels a little soft too, also not a good sign.

    The hose that goes from the aftercooler to the intake remains in place with the gasket cement helping quite a bit. No oil on the outside of this hose.

    Did notice something that could be crucial. This engine requires 6.4 quarts of oil. Do not add more than that. The oil ends up in the hoses of the intake system. It is possible that even a little bit of extra oil could be over pressuring the system or could be causing foaming leading to increased leakage past seals (too much pressure) or lack of lubrication (from the foaming). I inadvertently added a touch too much oil and hoses that were dry know have some oil in them.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    Caribou1: We don't have these little MARTENS yet. However. just in the last two years we have Armadillo's that have moved into our area. This is new in Missouri in the last decade.
    We have had a squirrell's who have stored acorns under the hood of our 1996 Dodge Neon.

    farout
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Winter2,
    Before you decide which type of replacement hose you buy, consider the movement of the engine and the effort needed at the mounting point. Braided hoses are very stiff for mating two ports facing each other because of a material compression effort made greater by the brading. I find these perfect for more than 75 degree assemblies where the 'flowing' movement of the material is already released from mounting stresses. In this case, the longer the hose, the less you will worry about it. A longer hose will also accomodate a slight twist.
  • kathekathe Posts: 2
    I just traded my 2005 CRD Limited. I just got tired of all the service visits, the shudder, the fuel line problems, etc. and decided to bail. It had 43,000 mi. on it and the dealer gave me $14,500. It was in excellent shape in and out. I feel weak, but hope I will like my Nitro better. :sick:
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    crdnot...

    Thanks for sharing your legwork in this matter as you seem to share my sentiments: No voluntary torque reductions w/o a compensatory remedy (or buyback).

    Your use of the term "drivetrain" made me curious until you talked about your differential failure. During my self-done "12,400 mi" service, the original, used rear differential lubricant sucked out was quite burned. The alternate 80W-140 specified for CRDs used to tow was the replacement oil (w/ the requisite anti-slip additive, of course).

    I'm almost to 25,000 mi. and it will be interesting to see what the condition of the used oil is again. I'll take your experience to heart and perhaps I'll need to take things farther like you did. Good luck.
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    Yeah...

    And don't forget the drivetrain warranty is halved beyond 2005 ;)
  • bullheadbullhead Posts: 125
    They become porous and spongy with time and exposure to heat and the oil vapors...

    Sounds like politicians too :mad:
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Farout: Did you get your replacement vehicle yet? I am still in limbo. I guess I need to just play the waiting game. Hamchamp
  • jimhemijimhemi Posts: 223
    Been a while since I posted or even came in the bd room here. Just to report, my 06 CRD Sport with just close to 15,000 miles had the ball joint and tranny recall performed last week. Well, the week of March 19th they did the ball joints then waited for over a week to get in a new torque converter. The whole transmission was rebuilt by the Dodge dealer's Viper/Cummins certified technician. The tech has been there for over 30 years so I had confidence in his work and quality.
    Well, the shudder at 50, even with a brand spanking new trans is still there! What are we to do?
    I was hoping to keep this little thing around and run it into the ground, but now I'm seriously considering trading it in when Toyota puts a CAT in it's Tundra. I didn't need a big truck, because well I'm not in that line of work. I just see that with Toyota's reputation for quality and CAT being the best diesels around maybe that's the way to go. Well, happy motoring, hope all is well with everyone in here.
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hamchamp: We thought we would get the Compass on Monday, but the paper work was sent to the auditor, and we are just waiting for them to say go get it. The waiting is a hard thing to go through. Everything DCX said has been exactally as we were told. The Compass is ready to take home we just need the final ok, which better be soon.....we hope.

    farout
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Interest in what auditor. DCX, IGS, or your personal auditor?
    Hamchamp
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hamchamp: It was the ISG auditor. We pick up the Compass to night. The end result was very fair. DCX replaced the extra patrs we had installed and paid the have the same put on the Compass. From the time we were told DCX was going to replace our CRD it has been 6 weeks. Here is the best part the DCX Customer Care line was who suggested the buy back to us! So the program works!

    Farout
  • anomiousanomious Posts: 170
    Hi! Just had the ball joints and torque convertor replaced on my "05" with 11700 miles. So far everything feels great! Still has "jump" and passing acceleration. The shift points are still the same too. Fifth gear around 55MPH. No shuddering at all. Wish you the best! I'll keep y'all posted!
    ;) LK
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Farout, Thanks for the auditor information. Every bit is helpful. We wish you godspeed with your new vehicle. :) Patience is what I am working on. LOL LOL. I will keep you posted with my progress. The Jeep on a Heap :sick: has been at the dealership 68 days and 68 nights. We are looking forward to a replacement. :shades: A Dakota Quad. Hamchamp
  • zoomy2zoomy2 Posts: 50
    Towing after F37. I didn't notice any problems. It pulled just fine. In lower gears, pulling a hill, the overheating (gage going past center) didn't happen.
    A section of the trip on two-lane in-which we drove 56-57 mph in what I will call 4th gear at 1850 RPM ran with cruise control and got 20.6 MPG!!! (I do want to say I had a tail wind) I think I am going to change the way I pull the trailer. With this kind of mileage it is worth it, stay out of OD and go just over 55. My CRD will not go into overdrive until 59 MPH. I will have to check again on the next two-lane section.
    Now it did jump down a gear a couple of times for a slight dip in the road, don't know why - RPM jump to 2600 and then shifted back.
    On acceration I applied enough throttle for 2400 RPM, before I use to have to get to 2800 RPM before it would shift through the gears. So this appears to be a good thing (F37 recall). :D
  • faroutfarout Posts: 1,609
    hamchamp: We did pick up our Compass on April 4th. When we drove up the dealer re parked it and ISG & DCX have a large notice that this vehicle is not to be moved by anyone execpt the DCX driver who will be picking it up. From the dealer it goes to some central place to see if any bugs can be worked out and then to the auction with a buy back title, and 12,000 mile warranty.
    The final results in mileage paid turned out to $ .05 cents a mile. DCX felt we had been very much inconvienced, and said they were very sorry several times. after it was all said and done and the mileage was deducted, and the CRD was paid off we had about $300. that was applied toward the Compass. After ISG gets a paid in full lein release we get our title on the Compass, which we were told would be two weeks or so.
    Our first jaunt in the Compass got 23.4 mpg. The Compass has as much or more pick up that our CRD had, certianly better mpg. Diesel here is $2.90 and gas is $2.63. It seemed strange not to go to the diesel pump.
    Are you any closer to getting your truck? I am very pleased our situation with DCX worked out as well as it did. Hope you can get your situation resolved quickly.

    farout
  • hamchamphamchamp Posts: 33
    Farout, Great news for you. I am happy that you received your Compass. Also, thank you for the information about the odyssey you traveled to obtain the Compass. DCX did well by you. I still have 20 more business days, per ISG, at the most, but I will post when I get more information. Your possession of the new Compass is very encouraging to me . Happy Easter. hamchamp
  • playgabeplaygabe Posts: 31
    My thoughts on the shifting down was due to the lowering of the HP the engine puts out. I'm sure you will see that the pulling power up hills is reduced and that is why I'm not getting the recall done. My dealer agrees with me. If I was not pulling a trailer I'd have the recall done but pulling over Mtn's (continental Divide) and others I want all the power I paid for when we purchased the CRD. Our MPG have been 19 pulling at 60-65MPH and 26-27 not towing. So far no problems with the engine or trans.
  • synlubessynlubes Posts: 184
    i would probably have the recall if not the crd will tear up the torque converter and it will through pieces of it through your tranny i couldn't tell any difference in power the europeans have had less power all along and get along great we are just spoiled over here
  • boilermaker2boilermaker2 Posts: 131
    Has anyone had a problem with their belt tensioner and squeaking in the front end? I have had the belt tensioner replaced, alternator and the serpentine belt (twice). Now, about 10-12k miles later I notice it is starting to squeak again like the first go-around.

    Should I just dress the belt and move on or are others having this repeat problem and I need to take it to the shop?

    Boiler
  • goodcrdgoodcrd Posts: 253
    Sounds like something is not lined up properly. With the engine off take a straight edge and check the alignment of your pulleys. They didn't correct the problem, just the effect. Good Luck.
  • caribou1caribou1 Posts: 1,354
    Boiler, observe the belt and look for shiny areas on the tensionner and the pulleys. My belt is not really tight but does not slip. Do you use an additional light bar or accessories that could load the alternator? Have you been in the water?
  • wheetwheet Posts: 1
    I wanted to reply to your Shudder at 50. We have a 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD. The shudder at 50, most noticeable on days when the temp was below 40 degrees, drove us crazy. After many many trips to the Dealer where we bought it..the shudder was still there. We finally brought it to a Dealer in Maine and they worked with a DaimlerChrysler Rep and they determined it was the ECM. Since they replaced the ECM, it has not shuddered once. Thought this may be something they would want to check into.
    Wheet
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