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Overall, the '93 Fleetwood Brougham is still doing excellent, but has gone through a series of issues since I was last here:
-Engine developed pretty bad spark knock/detonation and the check engine light kept coming on while cruising on the highway. Never lost power or felt anything but creamy, but did not sound good, so took it to the local GM dealer (sells everything BUT Caddy's) and they hooked it up to diagnostics and found the EGR valve, as suspected, was the source of the problem. Put a new one in, plus a new accompanying solenoid, and no more noise and no more light.
-Noticed last spring after the car sat out in a rain storm that it was leaking along the driver's side windshield top & door frame. After a while it stopped doing it there, and now leaks directly in front of the front overhead console almost every time it rains (no garage, but we try to cover it up) and has left the flip-out cupholer full of water a few times. Took it to a windshield place, but they didn't want to just re-seal the windshield because of the vinyl top, which they said could be hiding a leak underneath it. Not likely, but they wanted to do a water test before anything, and being winter still, we decided to delay it until the weather got better--hope to get it fixed SOON!
-Soon to be needing a few maintenance items, since it is now right at 99.9k miles. Namely, I'm thinking fresh transmission fluid and filter, tires (the old Atlas Pinnacles are just getting bad), and, hopefully, new shocks. The white vinyl top could also use a light freshening, so I'm going to look into getting it re-dyed since it's in perfect shape, just a little drab white instead of bright, fresh white.
Other than that, still love it, and hope to have it for a very long time! And maybe add another '93-'96 FW to the mix in the next few years to give the Roadmaster and the current Caddy a new "friend".
As for the door, it may be sagging a little since it's been opening and closing for 220k miles and 11 years. Then again, what part actually rubs? Is the door visibly "out of alignment" or sagging at all when you look at it?
Bleach and hot water.............I scrub the top with Ajax......(keep as much off the paint as possible). Rinse, dry....then use bleach and hot water on a rag (don't let it leak or run on the paint) and wipe down the tops.
Snow White results !!!!!!!!!!!!
Ya know nowadaze there are paints that they spray on vinal roofs to maintain or change the color(s). Shiny too !..............
Problem was, over time, it not only didn't last depsite weekly washings and application of protectant, but the Buick's went back to looking very nasty (thick gray stripes/marks) and the Caddy's began to look like my weekly "scrubbings" were taking the finish off (it really does look like the white has worn off, since the top of the texture bumps is gray in some areas).
As such, we tried the bleach again, but it had little affect a second time on either car. The Caddy doesn't look bad as is, and most people don't notice, but I do and it's bothersome. Here's an example:
http://img152.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img152&image=10000416by.jpg
You can see the gray area on the top where I think the finish is wearing off and can't be bleached anymore (but I could be wrong).
"Ya know nowadaze there are paints that they spray on vinal roofs to maintain or change the color(s). Shiny too !.............."
Yep, that's what I was told by another Fleetwood owner, that they would re-paint his vinyl top (also white) since it wasn't cracked or damaged. That seemed an attractive option to me, if it didn't cost too much.
1. change the plug wires along with the plugs at 100K miles. Your localACDelco parts store has "lifetime warranty" wires. Keep your box and receipt!
2. Change the water pumb by aound 120,000 miles at the LATEST. I won't give much of a warning of when it's about to al, and when (not if) it does, it will ruin the "optispark" distributor that is right below it.
3. Most of these cars came with factory engine oil coolers, these lines will eventually leak, Their expensive to replace, but cabe easilty done.
4. Your gas gauge wil lie to you from day 1. the sender retails for 440, but if you make friends with the parts guy (I HIGHLY recommend this ou can get for 330, plus labor to install.
5. keep up with your steering, if thelinkages get loose, you'll get wierd sterring issues.
6. lubricate the "steering stops" at each oil change to reduce or eliminate hte "clunk" you can get if you cock the swheel all the way over when going in or out the driveway.
Check with your local GM dealers on their GM Goodwrence lifetime warranty repairs. "Goodwrench shops" have the lifetime warranty on CERTAIN items, like shocks, AC compressors, EGR valves!, etc, but not on everything!. CHECK OUT THE COVERED PARTS LIST, Soem tiems are NOT covered, especially "wear" items like brake parts. Stay away from the dealers on brake repairs, they cost almost double in some areas and I'm still trying to get the dealer to keep their 4 axle brake job mo my 2000 Eldorado from squealing!.
The Yokahama tires are doing nicely on my car. The problem is that both Goodyear and Michelin who made the OE tires for this car have stopped making the 235-70-15 tire in whitewall! I do not recommend 235-75-15 because your handling will suffer! While the yokos are ok, I'm still looking for a T or H rated 235-70-15 tire for this car (and my 1968 DeVille conv which I run the same size on). Sears used to offer a Michelin T rated, lasted 7 years on my 1968, but again nowadays, BLACKWALL only!
Anybody who finds a good white wall for this car, please post!
Yopu'll fine that the front bumper top paint might bake in the sun (mine did) and that the top of the grey moldings that go around the waistline of the entire car will bake (mine did too) and that the top of the door (where it meets the vindow) will also bake. Thsea all happenned on my car, but they can all be painted. I did the bumper top, and the waist linee moldings, I'm still getting a price on the door top moldings. Also the trim at the base of the vinyl top at the rear will bake off too. I had that done. My 166,000 mile car look nearly brand new as a result :
Happy motoring :shades:
Yet, we keep going back and forth on the issue. My father originally was going to put the 75's on just because he liked how they looked on his Buick and thought the 70's just look too small for such a big tank of a car. Now he isn't sure what he likes. I still want to go with the 75's, and have been told by a few people who have done the same, that they not only fit perfectly, but the extra sidewall makes the car ride even better. The speedo will be off by about 2mph (I already calculated it with a tool on a website), but that's very minor.
What Yoko's do you have? In addition to the size, we're also trying to decide on a brand to buy too. The car currently has a set of Atlas Pinnacle's on it that are getting quite worn down and are VERY loud on the road.
Thanks,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com
Thanks. Anyone else have this problem?
find what ya need.
Open up your e-amail address and we can send ya some good links for parts.
Can't post them here directly because its a NO-NO at this site...............
Meanwhile, assuming the link(s) you have in mind are neither to another message board or an automotive dealership, please share here for all to benefit.
Thanks.
Are these fairly simple repairs, can anyone let me know of a trust worthy autorepairer up here in Edmonton, Alberta. When i first purchased her I went to a local dealer but the prices when in outer space.
I found the car sitting in a chryler dealers lot and just went and bought her, I really want to her running like new but I am on a budget (kids at university)
Many thank
Chris
Caddy History
I have a couple of problems that perhaps others have advice about.
1. The serpentine belt has a chirp chirp sound, especially when the compressor is engaged. My 1997 Suburban (same 5.7L engine) just developed the same sound. I hope it isn't catching. I've replaced some pulleys and the belt, which cut down the constant squealing, but the chirp is still there. If I spray the top right pulley with WD40, the chirp stops. It is kinda rusty, could that be the problem?
2. I need a small part for the rear window regulator, but so far every store has said they sell only the entire regulator (thanks a lot, $350). The part I need is a small donut shaped plastic disc that slides in a track to allow the window to raise and lower. Do any shops sell just this part?
P.S. Is it true that the larger engine in the 1995 is both more powerful AND more economical? I get 18 around town and 27 on the highway (with the A/C compressor on, and 2 more MPG with it off).
CHANGED CARB & PLUGS , WIRES AND CAP AND ROTOR ARE ONLY 20,000
MILES OLD. EVERY TIME I RESART ENGINE IDLES GREAT FOR 5 MINUTES OR SO. PLEASE HELP. THANK YOU.
I'll keep my eyes out on the net and post if I find anything. In the meantime, here's a GREAT site to search lots and lots of salvage yards for specific parts:
http://www.car-part.com/
I have a '93 too, with the 350 TBI engine and while it's only rated at 185 horses (REALLY pathetic for such a large engine), it runs and sounds like silk, and has some SERIOUS guts to it, when asked. It sure does move--which has always made me think that the LT1-powered newer ones really must be as amazing as everyone says they are.
That said, I've been extremely satsified, and am currently looking at buying ANOTHER '93 to give our current white one a friend, and give me a car to get back and fourth b/w college and home next year.
Last week I bought a 1993 Cadillac Fleetwood. It is in excellent condition throughout, everything works, but it has 140,000 miles on the odometer. The people I bought it from said they are mostly highway miles. I paid $3350 for it. My question is: what maintanance should I do on this vehicle to keep it running well? It seems totally fine at the moment, perfect actually! I plan to use this vehicle as a daily driver to and from work. (60 miles round trip on the highway) Should I bring it to a mechanic and have anything replaced or changed? How do you take care of a vinyl top? Thank you in advance for your kind advice.
Tim
http://www.car-part.com/
You should be able to find everything you need there, after a bit of searching and maybe a couple phone calls to get specifics.
I reply: Yep, my dealer found that specific part at a nearby Chevrolet dealer for $4.44 plus tax. It was not an exact match for the original part, but it fit nicely and looks stronger than the original. I put the door panel back on and now the window works as good as new. Thanks very much for the tip!!!!
Does anyone have experience with my other problem, a "chirp chirp" from the serpentine belt? It went away when I treated it with belt dressing, but then I learned that these new belts are ruining by belt dressing. Expensive lesson. It also goes away when I spray a touch of WD40 on a certain rusty-looking pulley.
To add to the situation, my 1997 Suburban with the same 5.7L engine now has begun the "chirp chirp."
If I have to replace the radio, I'll get one with a CD player.
Mike
Do you ever notice it not working/working properly again when you go over bumps? A lot of times similar issues will happen in cars when and if the grounds are bad/faulty, something that's been happening for a while now with the rear speakers in our '92 Roadmaster--they'll flicker off and on over bumps in the road.
The specs:
1995 Fleetwood Brougham
-Marblehead Metallic w/ Light Neutral leather
-118k miles
-Only options are the Brougham package, locking fuel door, and a full size spare
-Blackwalls (UGLY), but they're still a pretty fresh set of Michelins all around, so that's not a real biggie
-In BEAUTIFUL shape, and even nicer than our '93, which I always regarded as next to immaculate
-$4995 internet cash price
Drove nicer than my '93, and even felt tighter despite the slightly higher mileage (118k vs. 103k on our current one), and the price is well within my budget. Always wanted one of my own, since the '93 was technically just bought by my father for my brother and I to have a nice "to school" ride.
Here's a couple pics, too:
'95 Marblehead FWB
Love the LT1 and the beautiful color combo...just need to get a few last minute insurance and banking things cleared up, then hopefully there will be 2 in the driveway
Denise
This car is beautiful inside and out with still-shiny paint, a pristine vinyl top and gorgeous leather interior. Everything works-keyless entry, all power switches, load-leveler rear (no leaks I could see over 7 days) and not a hiccup from the 5.7 Liter V8.
With only 32,000 miles on the odometer, however, I wonder about the various seals and gaskets and if some of them might have aged enough during the past eleven years or so with so little driving to cause some problems. I will, of course have my mechanic go over the car before I plunk down my money, but I would appreciate any opinions/experiences anyone can give me about what we should be looking at in terms of replacement in a Fleetwood in this condition.
I appreciate any advice anyone can give me. Thanks! :confuse:
We DID turn some heads when we pulled in amongst all the SUVs, trucks and RVs!
P.S. The whitewalls carry the name, "NAIL GUARD"...
A3D
Please forgive me for my frustration, but in the last two weeks my two beloved Oldsmobiles (each running beautifully on the GM 3800 engine with over 140K on each) have been totaled and I am now faced with replacing them.
A3D
Be SURE to follow the posting format just above the post box so that they have all the information they need. And don't be shy about reposting if you don't get an answer right away.
Good luck and let us know what happens.
This car should be easy to service and repair as there is plenty of room under the hood and the rear wheel drive puts the engine and transmission where they are easy to get at.