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Comments
I agree about the windshield problem. Besides the sudden crack which appeared this week I got a chip (in a different location) before getting the truck home from the dealer and many very small pits. The windshield seems to pit extremely easily. I had the same experience with a Subaru Forester. OTOH, I had two windows break in a Chrysler minivan for no reason--one rear window while driving down the street and one of the rear side windows exploded while parked in the garage one Easter morning. I just seem to have bad luck with glass. I carry a high comprehensive deductible, but am thinking about lowering it to help pay for auto glass.
Fortunately we don't have much of a stink problem so far (just turned 30,000 miles). I have smelled it a few times when driving hard, but it was pretty minor. Guess we have been lucky in that regard.
Overall, I really like the truck. I have never had a vehicle that I didn't have a few complaints about. The 4Runner and a Honda Accord I once had are about the best vehicles I have owned.
Squeaking “belt noise” (cold engine) at 700 miles
(diagnosed and 'fixed' by dealership with new belt tensioner and belt at 2000 miles)
Squeaking “belt noise” (cold engine) returned at 2500 miles
(Dealership didn’t acknowledge problem, seemed like new belt wearing in was the culprit so I let it go – “belt noise” went away by 3500 miles – woo hoo, problem ‘solved’ w/o doing anything)
Fuel pulsation dampener recall at about 3000 miles
Faint headliner rattles started at about 4000 miles, have gotten worse over time
Gutter trim coming loose above front doors at about 4000 miles.
(dealership glued the rubber back down very poorly and it is now permanently protruding, though protruding less – the thing is supposed to snap in place, not be glued almost in place)
Suspension squeaks starting at about 4500 miles (ie 5-10 mph going over speed bumps – front shocks?)
Moonroof rattles starting about 5500 miles. Rattles loud enough now I can’t tell how bad the headliner rattle is.
Ventilation system seems to leak starting at about 7500 miles (it will allow hot air through vents when the system is off – seems to remember the temperature setting prior to being shut off. For example if I manually set it at 82° with the fan on any setting, then turn the fan off, air at the same hot temperature continuously comes out the vents even if it is 60° outside). Maybe I’m missing something about how it is supposed to operate. I would think if it let air through under these conditions, it would be ambient.
Squeaking belt noise (cold engine) has returned (cold weather related?) at 7800 miles.
All along I have heard the ticking sound folk here have mentioned, however, I only hear it if I listen for it. It is not that bad in my book. Saturn had timing chain as well – maybe I’m used to it.
I’m not saying this truck is a piece of garbage or a lemon - yet. These problems are annoyances, but they are adding up, not making the ownership experience what I had wanted/expected, and I had hoped to avoid such things by steering clear of GM, Yugo, Daiwoo, and Hyundai.
I’m wondering if any of you can recommend a dealership in the north Los Angeles area that will take my concerns seriously. Hamer Toyota doesn’t seem to care about the “minor nuisances” I’ve brought to their attention – I’ve given three different service teams a chance to prove their mettle. Meanwhile, I’ll go back and read up on how some of you have dealt with these issues.
If you have new thoughts, I’d be happy to hear them - particularly with the ventilation system.
I’m taking it to a dealer (Frontier in Valencia?) in a few weeks for it’s 10000 mile oil change/tune up and plan to bombard them with this list. I want stuff fixed and fixed right. I still plan to own this truck for a long time, but if I can’t get this stuff cleared up or if the list continues to grow I won’t be afraid to ditch it. Sure, I’m a picky new car owner, but for $28+k, I feel entitled to a vehicle that is not falling apart within 7 months and well in advance of 10000 miles. That’s what I got (and was prepared for) with the Saturn. If I wanted these issues I’d have bought a VUE for $8k less.
My apologies for the length of this post, thanks for help/suggestions y'all have
2Walker
(initially this login name was a pun on my conservative driving habits and 2 wheel drive SUV... now it seems accurate for how it works!)
Also, I have 3 second vibration in break pedal when breaking which goes away. The solution offered on this board was to replace the booster. I went two dealers and all of them said that this is normal and 2nd one told me that "vehicle equipped with power assist brakes not break booster system, normal operation no problem found"
Does anyone have any recommendations or solutions.
I have special-ordered a 2004 4Runner V8 Limited, which should be getting here in 2-3 months. With respect to the sulphur smell, it seems to bother different owners very differently, or maybe it occurs in varying degrees depending on the specific vehicle.
In your case, it seems like your 4Runner does have the smell, but it doesn't bother you too much. At least not enough to make you have a bad overall opinion of the truck. Would you please let me know whether the smell is something to worry much about? How frequently does it happen? Does it happen only when you rev up the engine to an extreme, only when the car is stopped, etc?
My only experience with the smell was while test-driven a 2003 model and really flooring it. Soon thereafter, while stopped at a light, I noticed the strong smell, and it went away as soon as I got the car moving again. I test drove the car 4-5 other times, and noticed no smell.
Thanks a lot in advance.
I also want to note that my vehicle vibrates at around 1600RPM at any speed or gear. Most noticable when going up a hill at 30 MPH (since gear doesn't change).
Anyone else notice the same?
Dean
I sat in the rear area while a buddy drove up and down a washboard road last night and eliminated what I thought it was: The dbl deck, tire jack, cargo cover and now it appears it’s actually in the rear hatch door on the left side. Seems the electric-rear-hatch-easy-opening system is not pulling the hatch in tight enough on the left side.
Has anyone else heard this?
Is the “tightness” or travel of the rear hatch adjustable?
Any and all advise very much appreciated...
Thanks!
It might be pretty simple to try slight adjustement of the strike plate, but I suspect it would be tricky to loosen the bolts and adjust the hinges. I'd be inclined to have a reputable dealer attempt a warranty repair/adjustment.
nmf51, you might need to lube your driveline. There are many posts about thuds and thunks in the "Toyota 4WD Systems Explained" thread, and some good explanations/remedies.
Later, I began hearing a heavy-metal clunking from what I thought was outside the vehicle (left-rear), like maybe spare tire area, or suspension. Turns out it was the left rear seat latch and they lubed it and that fixed it. I will tape it soon because I'm sure the lube won't do the trick for long.
Also, when truck is at idle, motor makes a throb/bounce type vibration about every 5 seconds. Anyone know what that is? If I sit still, I can feel it bounce the whole truck a little.
After visiting 3 other tire stores and spending way too much $$$, I decided to bring it to a Toyota dealer that is literally 1/5th of a mile from my office (didn't buy the truck there bc the sales dept. is full of idiots). The service guys were great, very helpful, and they suggested that they try their new Hunter 9700 to diagnose the problem. Immediately, the machine found 2 slightly warped wheels. They ordered 2 for me under warranty. Problem solved.
I will never again have my tires balanced by any other machine.
Any advice as I took the vehicle to two different dealers and they say that this is normal, all new 4Runners do that. Because rpm falls in that level in most driving situation, I find this very enoying.
When vehicle is warm, and your parked at idle, in drive, with foot on brake- rpms at 500 or so... no vibration... put it in neutral and rpms climb a little, then every so many seconds there's a throbbing vibration that bounces the truck some.
I'm just wondering if this might be part of the problem or is it a wheel/tire issue or a combination of the two. I just can't figure this one out and I'm not getting any help from dealers or Rep.
My next step is test drive another 4runner and if it's smooth (I'm sure it will be) try to get them to swap the wheels out briefly (I'll pay for the labor) and see if that eliminates the problem. If it does, I know it's a wheel/tire defect, if it doesn't, obviously the problem is elsewhere but at least some progress will have been made.
I purchased the vehicle used (May 31, 2003) and the first time I used the 4WD, I had to call the service department about how to get the flashing wheel lights to stop blinking and to get the 4WD engaged. The lights were blinking for blocks. Well, I got it into 4WD and after that it wasn't bad for that trip. I used it again tonight (3 weeks after the previous experience) and drove for blocks with the flashing 4WD indicator lights flashing. The vehicle has 28,000 miles. Any suggestions?
When shifting into H4, make sure you are driving in a strait line, shift the lever, and then (at the same time) modulate the throttle up and down and it should engage. I belive this loads and unloads the linkages, and allows the gears to engage. It is not necessary to depress the clutch, (if it is a manual).
Hope this helps,
Whitney
Anybody have this problem or have heard of it? I'd hate for this to happen with another vehicle.
Any info is certainly appreciated.
I would suggest getting a small flashlight and a wrench and looking around for loose bolts or anything else that doesn't seem right. I don't know about the 4Runner specifically, but lots of vehicles suggest periodic re-tightening of seat bolts. I don't know that they're more likely than other bolts in the car to loosen, but the consequences can be serious.
1) Loose seat bottom (up & down play).
2) Vehicle tilt (driver side lower).
3) Vibrations.
3) Quirky brake issues.
4) Engine ticking noise.
The 04 had a loose seat bottom identical to mine, was tilted just like mine, and the ticking noise was the same.
Only thing different was it didn't have the vibrations that mine does and the brakes seemed normal.
My vibration is not from tires. It happens only when RPM is between range 1500-2000. It goes away if you go outside of the range. There is also a slight vibration at this RPM when in N and in full stop.
This sucks as this is a crusing speed with RPM in tha range. Looks like that I need get used to it.
My vibrating breaks were performing perfectly when at dealer this morning (no vibration). I think it is a weather related (first very cold day in year 32 degrees). As soon day warmed up to 44 degrees, the problem came back. Breaks is not a big issue as you only feel it when breaking. RPM vibration is the problem as I feel all the time.
I am not going even start the rotten-egg smell problem....
I am very dissopointed with Toyota. I expected a better quality. Where is the famous 4Runner name.
I tried everything to try to get the 4WD working. One note, I was on ice at the time I tried to engage the 4WD. (I was parked on ice).
4WD fuse
Wire harness
Vehicle speed sensor
4WD position switch
4WD indicator light
Actuator assembly
A.D.D control system
4WD control ECU
Transfer assembly
I just bought a V8 SR5 and it also has the same vibration problem. It is subtle enough to overlook easily but annoying enough once you notice it. I thought it came from tires because I can feel it even at neutral and not sensitive to rpm too much as long as the vehicle was moving, but I'm not sure. I hope it'll go away once the care breaks in.
Note: I have over 300,000 kms (190,000 miles).
I was told this is probably a U Joint.
Questions:
1) 'to the gang out there', is this probably a U Joint?...anything else?
2) What is the approx cost of replacing the U Joint?
3) Is this different form a CV joint?
4) Any other things I should be aware of ???
Signed,
Vehicle Idiot
Other possible sources of vibration are a bent or out-of-balance drive shaft, or a stuck yoke spline. There must be other possibilities, but I'm not good enough to think of them.
If the yoke is stuck, it is possble that it only needs to be greased. You should be able to tell if the yoke spline is stuck by jacking up the vehicle after making a mark (not a scratch) on the yoke with a marker. Jacking up the vehicle should move the yoke splines out as the suspension drops. If the yoke doesn't extend or extends suddenly, it may be binding and be the problem. Try filling it with good moly grease (alot is needed to fill the spline), and then drive it for a while. While you're under there, grease everything. This might loosen it up if it's the problem or if it's a dry u-joint.
(No, a u-joint is different in design than a CV joint). See:
http://members.aol.com/carleyware/library/cvjoint1.htm
You can check the drive shaft run-out by removing it and measuring the wobble at the middle in a jig while you rotate it slowly. Usually the max runout is around 0.8 mm (1/32 inch). I guess it is possible for a drive shaft to act as you describe with out-of-spec run-out, but I have not seen that.
Drive shaft imbalance would seem to be unlikely since it would be relatively constant under power and coasting. Also, it is difficult to get out of balance.
I guess the cost of replacing a u-joint is around $200-$300, but it is a WAG. I have never had one replaced to know. Cheap part, mostly labor. A really frozen spline would maybe be $200-$500, depending on the cost of the parts.
I think the most likely problem of the above is a stuck yoke spline, but it is a shot in the dark since I can't ride in the truck and check it out. Could be a u-joint also. Could be a number of things in the front drive system. Could be anything... (disclaimer)
Good luck