Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am curious: I had a '90 which never had the butt-drag problem, so I got lucky, but just how do you fix that problem? Do you have to replace everything at the back, including the springs?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
jc
dont think the fuse ever blew, but the relay was what was wrong and it wouldn't start until replaced it. it was only 14 or 30 bucks, i dont remember.
yours is newer than mine and mines a piece of crap, but you might check for drips under the car right around your gas tank, etc.
both cases wouldn't even turn over. the efi relay is cheap, beer or soda and a wire brush on the battery connectors is cheaper.
you can find stuff online regarding rerunning rear brake lines and using an adjustable rear proportioning valve or write me and i can fill you in - billybdd@yahoo.com - its less than 80 bucks and was alot easier than dropping the tank on my rusty piece of crap.
I have been told by three places (my mechanic, their transmission specialist, and a Toyota dealer) that I must replace the transfer case (at $3,000 to $4,000!!!). The diagnosis from everyone is that the electric motor in the transfer case has gone bad. While this is apparently a common problem with Ford, noone has ever seen it on a Toyota.
Did you find a resolution?
This past summer (2005) I noticed a black line on the rear passenger side. At first thought it was road tar, or whatever. This was after finish up a washing the car with TURTLE WAX ZIP WAX CAR washing solution" I have used this product for years with a glove and/or a wash mitt. Never a problem.
So I go to my friendly dealer and have him take a look. He noticed some other sports. I took responsibility for them as my "wife likes to park by touch" as I told him.
Any way against his better judgement(according to him) he said he would call the Paint Shop next door and have the problem taken care of. No paper was written up, Darn!! So the owner of Mike's paint shop, very personable, and help full does it right away and gave care instructions. Great Shop!! Great guy.
Now December 2005 ( about 12,000 miles total) more problems. Can't blame wife, but can blame both of us. In the pockets, where you place your hand to open the door, I discovered a BUNCH of small scratches. The scratches look to be BLACK. I doubt they are scratches, but instead the "ORIGINAL WHITE PAINT" BEING SCUFFED WITH OUR FINGER NAILS. The black fibre glass of the door is showing through.
After all this, if you stayed awake with my rambling, how should I approach my dealer? Should I talk to someone at the factory level or just get it re painted and quit my whinny attitude.
I got rid of the chevs and fords for this very same reason after reprinting them on my dime. I want something the paint stays on the vehicle. That is why I choose "WHITE".
Now I am faced with the same thing with the Toyota. Do have a 1977 Toyota, and paint problems there were/are because of me.
Sad thing is, we just love the vehicle, it has everything we need, gas mileage not so good, but fine with us, and a great riding car, and especially SAFE CAR
Should I just give it all up and trade it off for a Honda Pilot. That seems to be the best choice now
Gene
El Sobrante, CA
on the left coast
Besides I would have preferred to have a more exotic problem, like low tires, bad seals on the moon roof, auto shifting problems. I guess you get the idea.
Thank you for the assist.
Gene
El Sobrante, CA
on the left coast
isI guess I am really confused. I thought the base was the same on all vehicles. Are you saying on the Black 4-runner is white, while on the White 4-runner it is Black.Sorry to be a cynic, but the dealers I have encountered think all car buyers are idiots. They are probably right.
Gene
I asked the Toyota service dept if this can be adjusted and they said NO, ITS A COMPUTER PROGRAMMING ISSUE. sounds like bs to me - does anybody know if this can be adjusted so that the idle increase is a little more subtle??
If you have 4wd, locking the center diff turns off that portion of the traction control system that cuts the power back. I wholly agree with 2toyotas as to the capability of the 4Runner
I take my 4Runner offroad regularly, though not serious 'wheeling', as you put it. I take it out on the beach on Cape Cod and Martha's Vineyard in the summer. The beaches I use don't have any steep hills, but they do have plenty of soft sand.
On Sunday, I drove through 12" of snow out to the outdoor range at the gun club. Even though it was dragging 3" of snow, it made the several hundred yard trip without any problem whatsoever. Even dragging the undercarriage over the snow bank at the edge of the road wasn't a problem. Of course, my Nokian snow tires probably helped.
For moderate off-road conditions in mud, sand, and snow, it will do just fine.
Oh - I was asked not to drive fast or with cruise, because the car was in break-in period (it had only 100 miles when I started).
All the best!
My experience is that the computer is 1-2 mpg optimistic.
Be careful in figureing your mileage
Gene
I have another dumb question for the list (my last dumb question, i promise, sorry just bought a new 4runner last week). I was playing (ok testing) around with the H2/H4/L4 dial (while parked in my driveway) on the dash, and accidentally put it in L4 without stepping on the brake or putting in neutral beforehand. Would this cause any kind of damage to the 4wd system, even though I was in park and wasn't moving? Everything seems to be fine, but just checking...The owners manual is very vague on this and I wanted to see if anyone knew on here...thanks in advance for your help...
I personally use the gas tank method. I keep track of every fill up and the mileage, and mileage between. I calculate the miles driven divided by the number of gallons put in the tank.
Unfortunate for me, I can't seem to get a "consistent" fill. One time my mileage is 22 mpg, the next is 16.5!! That is for local driving. Long distance 300 or so miles at about 60-65 mph my fill ups tell me I am getting 18.0 18.5 with the full time 4X4 V/8.
I am happy with the mileage. If only I could keep the paint on the vehicle. Paint is coming off.
I think it will be hard to demonstrate satisfactorily at this point that the problem was ever the head gasket (if, in fact, it was - it could have just been the coolant leak and then running with no coolant). I don't think you should approach Toyota, no. I think you should decide if you want to spend a couple of thousand $$ putting in a used/rebuilt engine, and another $300 getting a new radiator. On a '95, I would probably do it if everything else is in tip-top shape.
OTOH, for $8-10K you could get into one a few years newer, which has the bigger engine (which makes a world of difference, I have had both). Imagine actually maintaining speed on long or steep highway grades....
Toyota trucks in general will go 300-400K miles, this particular one (the V-6) requires extra care with the engine, which tends to eat valves under the best of circumstances. Mine (a '90 V-6 4x4) needed a valve job at 175K, which I did happily, figuring to get many more years out of it. At 220K it was still running, but making unfriendly sounds from the lower end (predictable, right? Rebuild the top, puts more pressure on the bottom). The guy who bought it from me planned to put in a new engine, as it was in excellent shape apart from that.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I am surprised you have only just started hearing it at 160K miles though - did you just get this truck recently?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
After all of the diagnoses, I went with the advice of the Toyota dealer and replaced the transfer case. I have a friend in the parts business locally, so he got me the new transfer case for *only* $2,000 *rather than the $3,000 the dealer quoted). This did not fix the problem. The car is back to the dealer who has offered to "re-diagnose" the problem for free (the first, incorrect diagnosis cost me $400!!).
If ANYONE out there has any ideas on what would cause a 99 4Runner Ltd to become stuck in 4WD with the indicator light flashing, I would love to hear from you --
This is getting expensive (and even though it is a Toyota, it is a 6 year old car).
Thanks :sick:
If they can't tell you for sure what is wrong with it-get rid of it. To put more money in to a 6 year old car is a bad thing to do.
Also, is anyone else experiencing a problem with not being able to get the oil dipstick out? I have tried removing it when the engine is hot, warm , cold, doesn't seem to matter, the o-ring on it is now starting to rip from having to force pull it out every time. I even tried using a lubricant when I put it back in. I have never had this happen before on any vehicle I've owned!
I have the same problem at the moment with my 1999 Toyota Limited 4Runner with the flashing 4wd indicator.
Has been in the shop multiple times which resulted in multiple switches and now a transfer case without results.
Just put up $2k for the transfer case because the Toyota dealer took mine apart and seems like they could not find anything wrong, so I towed it to another shop for a second opinion and they put a used transfer case in for me because the original was striped down to nothing (thanks Dealer).
Tried AWD once and it worked and when I tried it again it got stuck with the lights flashing again and it feels like it is in 4wd.
I am ready to go to Toyota Corporate now as well because they do not seem to know how to fix it and I have spent a lot of money and time.
If you find anything out, please let me know.
Did you replace the transfer case motor?
David
Look at message 777 on how to replace the starter. It is a bit more work than you might expect.
Second, since these three belts have to be removed to replace the timing belt, then should the dealer charge me any extra labor for just putting on the new belts (instead of the old ones).
What has been your experience?
Drex :confuse:
I've had the same problem in my '03 4Runner and most of the noise occurs when my sunshade is closed. When it is open, I don't hear any chatter at all. What did the dealer say or do when you took it to him?
Drex
Thx.
Drex
I have a 2005 4runner sport V6 4x4. I have been having many issues with this vehicle, one of which is the shimmy on the highway at around 60mph. If you look up the service bulletins on the vehicle, you'll see that there's a bulletin for the steering column on this vehicle where there's a defective part on certain models that causes this issue. There are many other issues with the wheels, pressure sensors, and suspension. I am currently going back and forth with Toyota over several issues. Ours has issues when turning right, the front wheels slide, and the slippery road indicator comes on. My wife has just found this posting board, and there are many with similar issues on their 4runners.
The original transfer case WAS shot because the motor that engages 4WD was burned out (and that motor is not available as a single part -- ugh). According to Toyota the ADD switch was shorting and is what somehow ultimately burned out the transfer case motor.
Toyota Corporate advised my dealer to NOT drive the car with the flashing indicator until fixed because the motor in the new transfer case could burn out too.
Toyota was very good about it, and I suppose at worst I now have an "average" overall service record given that this was the only repair in 6 years.
Hope that helps --