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I had a rattle that I thought was coming from the front passenger door. My girlfriend thought is was coming from the front drivers door. It turned out to be my sunglasses in the holder. Just shows how deceiving the sounds of very slight rattles can be.
The Computer detects the fuel amount in the tank and it is multiplied by max MPG you can have to display no of miles you can drive. In the Trip Computer Software a Linear relationship talbe is stored b/w Speed and MPG, this table is obtained by plotting a graph b/w speed and MPG to determine MPG at different speeds. This must have been done by toyota at pre-production testing. The Trip computer keeps on averaging the miles driven to find out which current MPG value it should use from linear relation b/w MPG and Speed.
(However the graph is not linear all the way as it starts declining after 55-60 MPH, Also while determining relationship b/w speed and fuel usage, the engine is not tested at every single mile, the graph is extended or extrapolated to find out MPG in certain mile range, which by itself induces some room for error)
The only way to get very acurate MPG from trip computer would be if you going on long trip and burn the whole tank. In that case you can see mileage exceeding 22, 23 MPG for V6 2WD, because the averaging error is lot less at cruising speeds.
If you really want to check out MPG before every trip you have to reset the MPG and Avg Speed every time. However with combination of in-town, highway driving you should expect 2-3 mpg error. I am not sure what accuracy Toyota post for their MPG ( +/- ?) but there is always a second column with Observed MPG in most car magazines and discussions.
Plz correct me if i am wrong in my theory anwhere.
asif
Thanks
- you may have a rattle coming from the rear left compartment housing the emergency tools. Check to see that all items are properly stowed. You may wish to wrap any exposed metal tools with a shop towel to reduce any rattling.
In general, I haven't had any problems with it. It does have a tendency to be a bit tail-happy under acceleration, but then the skid-control comes in with a bit of a heavy hand. One morning we had an ice storm and the back started to come around on me in a corner. It came back very easily with a bit of counter steer. If you don't know how to counter steer your way out of a skid, then you don't know how to drive in snow...
Acceleration from a stop (both on level roads and going uphill) on snow-covered roads was just fine. In fact, a bit too good. The traction in snow is good enough that it is very easy to not realize just how slippery it is. You'll find out just how slippery it is when you try to stop and or corner. Like many SUVs, I think it is easy to get over-confident in the snow in the 4Runner and get yourself into trouble. Slow down, leave yourself plenty of room, and use smooth, gentle inputs to the throttle, brake, and steering wheel.
On a couple occasions I had to drive over and through 1 1/2 foot snow banks left by snowplows. The 4Runner went through without any problem at all.
Next year I will probably spring for dedicated snow tires. Your brakes stop the wheels, but the tires stop the truck. Dedicated snow tires certainly aren't necessary, but will give an added factor of safety.
IMHO, I would switch back to dino oil and change your oil at 3-4,000 mile intervals, you won't notice any difference between the dino and synthetic changing that often(mechanically).
B4 the flame starts, I am not an advocate of synthetic oil, I don't care who recommends it. I used it once and had a similar experience as this.
Love the oil wars :-)
Steve, Host
madatrub "Will Mitsubishi Endeavor ... Endure?" Dec 12, 2003 6:49pm
Lifter noise:
tharms "Toyota Sequoia Owners: Problems & Solutions" Dec 2, 2003 11:16pm
Synthetic lessening start-up noise:
once_for_all "Mazda MPV" Mar 21, 2003 3:30pm
Steve, Host
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/ehl/engineoilspecs.htm#viscosity
From what I read on this board, I understand that certain Toyota dealers use 10W-30 when they change the oil instead of the recommended 5W-30.
Being in AZ, I don't think it's a problem. The coldest it gets this time of year where I live is about 40. It doesn't sound or feel any different than before the oil change. I'll monitor fuel consumption and see what happens. I'll definitely use the thicker oil for the May-Sep period.
Is this just BS? I offered to bring my own brand and weight of oil (5-30) during the next change, they looked at me like I was some sort of freak.
I have had issues with this dealer in the past, so I am not surprised. BTW...the other Toy dealer in town is a flatout thief and should not be in business, they are doing Toyota a dis-service representing the brand.
When should you get your first service?
I would go by the owners manual for time or mieage. The service light coms on at 7500 mile increments which is maximum milage for oil changes. I do my changes at 5K mile intervals.
Sounds like it's about time to contact the service center for an oil change. Thanks for the response.
Each individual needs to evaluate their driving patterns and experience with their oil and engine to determine what is suitable for them. It is always better to err on the side of too many oil changes than to risk wearing out your engine because of poor oil-change habit. When it comes to oil changes, there is no set rule or generalization that applies to everyone.
Using synthetic oils will permit longer oil-change intervals, but you have to evaluate the cost in with this convenience.
I changed oil at 3k miles on my 2004 4Runner V6 2WD, just to be on safe side, incase the break-in of engine has left some tiny metal shavings. My MAINT lite has come on exactly on 5k miles. Does the Service technician need to reset some thing or the light comes on every 5 k miles. BTW my toyota dealer put 10W40. i was surprised but i did'nt ask why. i hope it wont have that much of bad impact. i am convinced that for new engine, a lighter visocity oil will give better lubrication, specially in winters and in cold start.
your input will be appreciated
asif
To reset the oil maintenance light, refer to page 121 of the owner's manual.
Any ideas of similar experiences? thanks doct
The owners manual has the procedure to reset the light. I don't remember the page but I think its in the index.
Good point. Brake fluid is designed to absorb any H2O. As such, you should flush your brakes every few years. If you look at old brake fluid under a microscope you can see tiny water droplets suspended in the fluid. This causes the freezing of the H2O and lessened brake capability.
Just curious. My 2000 Ltd factory roof rack has a 165lb weight limit. Anyone know why the limit dropped off so much?
Any thoughts or similar experiences.
Tangman
It cranks up fine, and when I shift to Drive, the thing doesn't move. I have to step on the gas a little bit. If I haven't used the truck in a couple of days, I have to really step on it. And when it eventually moves, there's a noise that sounds like something has been holding it back and it now has been released. This has been happening only overnights. When I start it in the evening after a 8-9 hr break in the office, it moves fine.
Any clue what could be going on?
And I don't use the Parking brake. I did notice today that I had the vehicle idling for about 4 mins before I actually put it in Drive, and did not have the problem. I'll research a little more and post updates again.
PS, Thanks to Joebriun for the initial help on oil filter and plug location and tips!
Step 1 = Open hood.
Step 2 = Remove front skip plate, secured by 4 12mm bolts, let back end hang down, then pull out the plate which has 2 front alignment/safety tabs holding the skid plate from dropping off.
Step 3 = slightly loosen oil filter with oil filter strap wrench. The location of the oil filter is driver side and right behind the front stabilizer bar.
Step 4 = Loosen the 14mm oil drain plug. The location of the plug is below the 2nd skip plate which has a oval access door, pry door off with a screw driver.
Step 5 = Start engine for 2 to 3 minutes to allow the oil to heat up, then shut off engine.
Step 6 = Remove oil plug and drain oil.
Step 7 = Torque oil plug with gasket in place and install access door.
Step 8 = Remove old oil filter and install new oil filter with o-ring lubricated. Make sure the old o-ring is with the removed old oil filter.
Step 9 = Tighten new oil filter 3/4 to 1 turn after initial contact with oil filter base.
Step 10 = Install front skip plate.
Step 11 = Add oil, I initially added 5 quarts and later added 1 more quart for a total of 6.
Step 12 = Check yellow oil dip stick level indicator.
Step 13 = Start engine for 2 to 3 minutes.
Step 14 = Shut off engine.
Step 15 = Check oil dip stick level, add if needed.
Step 16 = Start engine for 5 to 10 minutes to check for oil leaks.
Step 17 = Shut off engine and re-check oil dip stick level again and close hood.
Time spent on oil change is approximately 30 minutes.
Why I do this is the job gets done right with TLC and no mistakes, hopefully... lol
I know there are a lot of horror stories behind oil change facilities and rather not be part of it.