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I don't have a tonneau cover but they look great and wish I did have one. When you speak of a lid I assume you are talking about what we refer out west here as a shell?
By the way, this is for you maltb.....I've noticed here lately that my "door ajar" light stays on longer along with overhead light....sometimes turns off slow...sometimes fast.....any TSB's on that ??.......
There are no TSBs for that, but there are only 2 parts that could cause that: The GEM module and the switch. The switch is about $7 and the GEM is $115. If you are out of warranty, I'd live with it until it becomes annoying.
I have the same problem with my door ajar light coming on often...I solve it by making sure the back doors are shut very tight.(I assume you have the 4 door)The door connections seem to be poorly designed to me, but "slamming" them has worked so far
btw,
thanks for the info mdaffron!
BTW, I do remember reading something somewhere about drive shafts in the 4000 series. Especially the extended cab ones, since they had an additional universal joint in them, making them three sections long. There was a TSB or something on them and people were complaining of that clunk noise a few years back. I've also read many comments on that "door ajar" problem too.
You should also go check out nhtsa.com -- under "problems and issues" they have a section where you can look up the recalls and TSBs on your vehicle. You can also look up and read summaries of consumer complaints about your vehicle too. Sometimes it's reassuring to see you're not the only one experiencing a certain problem.
Good luck with the truck --
Meade
The intermittent wipers staying on even when in the off position.
The heater temp control knob sometimes works. If I leave it in the "red zone" then the heater will work.
Finally, the paint has blistered on the cab roof and hood.
BUT, it's paid for and starts every morning. I'd appreciate any suggestions on remedies etc. Thanks
It is also time to replace shocks etc. Any recommendations on that? Thanks
Eauxdom
Eauxdom
http://www.motortrend.com/news/stories/020426rz.html
Shock rocker Rob Zombie prepares to take his music rights law suit against Mazda to court in July over the unauthorized use of his music in a truck commercial.
LOL!!!
-Larry
around 2700 rpm, it will sputter sometimes. if i go faster or slower, the problem goes away. Has any one got any ideas??? Had tune up, replaced plug wires, distributer cap and rotor,plugs
Has 93K on it. Just needed a small truck to scoot around town and haul light stuff instead of driving my big 99 GMC Safari
Any other owners with the 2300 Engine, what's your mileage? How long did/does yours go trouble free? Any problems to know about?
My observation: for 93K and a (Ford) 4-Cyl. Seems to run good. Could use more power nonetheless
I can't find one to buy.
Half the Mazda dealers answer my request with
"Uhhh, I didn't know we HAD a Dual-Sport B4000"
What's up with that?
Having said all that, I doubt that's why your light is on. Do you notice it running differently? Also, is the warranty out?
I purchased one in February, and I have been quite pleased with it. The only problem has been a failed trip odometer; the dealer replaced the instrument cluster in less than one hour. The 4.0L SOHC engine is really strong, and the 5-sp auto trans is smooth. It might very well be the best truck I have ever had. Just don't count on transporting adults or small kids in the jump seats.
Good luck.
Truck is stripped down other than: alloys, bedliner, AC, tonneau cover.
Here's the thing: the dealer is asking $6500 and seems unwilling to budge on price (he has agreed to make minor necessary repairs and replace all tires.)
The Edmunds TMV for the truck is $5,700 (not including the tonneau cover)
the Kelley Blue Book.com lists the same truck w/same mileage and same added features at $9,285.
How is this possible? the two quotes aren't even close!
Which one is (closer to being) right?
Is the truck a good value for $6500?
Thanks in advance for any feedback and any advice on this truck
I like the four-banger for better gas mileage and since I'm not a speed demon, I don't care that I wouldn't be able to blow someone off the line. Does anyone know where I can get some pricing info?
Meade
With the server problems we've been having here, it's also possible that the system caused the problem. That has happened on some of the boards from time to time.
PF Flyer
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Pickups & News & Views Message Boards
Unless you are part of the frequent offender program. In that case they cut all the red tape and with one swoosh you are an archive on some lonely server in the basement. Not that I would I would know this of course.
Meade
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I recently purchased a '98 B2500 and just recently started having the same issue w/the 'check engine' light. My manual says the same thing about the gas cap and 3 cold starts etc. The car lot where I bought it said they had replaced the fuel filter before selling it, so I am assuming this isn't the prob. Did you ever find out what was causing your light to go on? Any resolution to the issue?
thanks
Go over to the Ford Ranger problems board and look at postings 496 and mine....497 .
I told that guy what I'd found out about the ck engine light and a probable fix for it......
I have a 99 B4000 bought in April 99 and with 33000 miles on it. Just recently, the drive indicator has gotten out of alignment so that when the transmission is in N (neutral), the truck is actually in reverse. I went to the Mazda dealer in Columbia (Pulliam Wray), and they looked at it and told me "It is out of warranty, and that they will charge me to fix it." I complained that it is just out of warranty but only has 33k on it and is a safety hazard. They don't care, if it is one day out of warranty, you pay. So much for ANY good will! I told them it is a SAFETY HAZARD. They tell me they will first have to diagnose it for $52.00. I told them look you can see it is not correct, it is already diagnosed. They still want the $52 bucks. Then they may contact Mazda about it, I suppose if I complain enough. I am still out of $52 and may have to pay rest of repair bill to get it fixed! If it were just something like running rough or etc, Mazda's lack of concern on this, A SAFETY HAZARD, astounds me! I called Mazda, a Mr. Cid (won't give last name) told me the same thing, I called the local store manager and he told about the same thing too. The bottom line is, the whole Mazda bunch apparently does not give a rip about fixing a safety problem out of warranty. You are responsible, it is your vehicle. They all seem to have lost that "We Care about you attitude." that they all had when I was buying the vehicle. I now can truly understand how these companies get into these big multimillion dollar lawsuits over safety issues on the vehicles. How sad it is after all the bucks we pay for these vehicles.
I just guess that I was totally spoiled after owning Hondas for 10 years. I was never treated like this with them. My daughters Honda quit on her one time with 55K on odometer and it was towed in and they paid the towing without us even mentioning them paying. They replaced a coil that was on recall for free. Now they did not have to do that, but this is what keeps folks coming back to Honda. Honda, please come out with a pickup, I will need a new one in next couple of years. It won't be a Mazda after this lack of care from them. The Mazda truck has been a good one, I admit, but just hope you don't have any trouble with it as I get the feeling they are really money hungry form my experience with the local dealer.
Anybody else had this problem?
Honda is coming out with a pickup. I think '04 or '05. Off topic, Porsche is coming out with one too, which has 450 HP!
But it's not really a safety hazard, because you know about it. And whoever drives the truck should know it's idiosyncrasies, and how to deal with them. Like stories my folks used to tell me, where they had vehicles with no Reverse, or 1st gear. That made for some interesting planning when parking the car.
I've also driven manual transmission cars, with the stick shift on the steering column, with NO indicator guage at all, and it passed state inspection. Safety hazard? In today's lawsuit frenzied culture, maybe, but realistically any mass produced machine will have a quirk or two pop up here and there...
If you own a tool box, you can probably fix it in about an hour or two. Just open up the dash instrument panel, and try to fix the indicator manually. Put it into Neutral (use parking brake), disconnecting the wire that connects to the gauge, changing gears to what is displayed in the guage, and then reattaching the wire.
It could also be just as easy to do this at the transmission, instead of behind the instrument cluster. You might be able to move the indicator by hand, or even just paint over it to display what it should. A haynes manual available at any automotive store should help you.
You are correct, I can fix this problem. I have found the problem and is is caused by cheapness in an inferior part, not a normal wear problem. I do not like having to pay to replace a cheap piece, given cost of vehicle, which I have already paid! I looked under the dash after consulting a Ford CD manual. There is a cable from the indicator that connects to the shift lever bar. This cable has a thumbwheel mounted between a stationary plastic clip attached to the steering column to adjust indicator position. The plastic piece looks like a cheap dimestore toy. It is so thin, that it was bound to break, which it did. I guess that is why two Ford dealers and the Mazda stock this part on their shelves.(So much for the rare problem theory!) You cannot buy this one little 50 cents piece, you have to buy the whole assembly, which only retails for $19 to $20. The manual calls for dash removal and replacement of the entire assembly...$100 plus labor. I will bet you that what they do and what I would do is simply screw off the clip from the new cable assembly and replace only the little clip, which you can do, no need to pull the dash to do it, just crawl up under and have at it. BUT, I would bet they would charge for the entire operation as if they replaced the whole piece. I asked about this to a mechanic and he said only to check and make sure the indicator cable is not binding before doing it this way. Wonder why they are so familiar with this "rare" problem? I still say it is a safety problem and Ford/Mazda would lose any court case based on what I see and am documenting to send to the DOT. They could have made the part stronger for only pennies more and I would not be having this discussion. Your saying that anyone driving the truck should know it's idiosyncrasies. That is just bull! I can't let anyone drive it until I fix it, because I would be involved a lawsuit along with the dealer and Mazda if they had a wreck because of this 10 cents part breaking.
Glad you heard Honda is coming out with a truck. I will plan on getting one. Timing should be about right by then.
What really cracks me up is that you'd rather go through all this than fix it yourself for $20. What's it like living in your world?
I'm sorry if I sound a bit skeptical, it's just after you drive a car for a few years, do you even have to look at the gear indicator to know what gear it is in? Of course I wouldn't assume my girlfriend would figure it out on her own, but I'd tell her, and that would be that. If it became an issue, I would have it fixed the next weekend by noon.
Maltb, as for me "going through all this", I am retired, SO I have the time to do it! $20 is nothing to me, I could go down to Mazda and write a check for any vehicle they have on the lot! This is my world, how is yours? Just maybe, by me pursuing this, they might spend a few cents more so this does not happen in the future and save some poor sole making monthly payments from having to fork out a couple of hundred bucks to get this repaired because of a cheap part and/or causing an accident due to a wrong gear indication. And, midnight stang, contrary to what you say, I have found already that it is a problem as to what gear I am in now. You would not think so, but it is tricky without the visual indication. Try covering up your indicator and drive the vehicle for a week and let me know how it goes. Don't be careful and think about it, just pop it where your feel thinks it should be and see what happens. And don't go back to the straight drive thing, totally different thing, a clutch is involved.
In the end, I will most probably fix this my self, because I do not really want them to disassemble the dash, which will probably screw things up on the other instruments.
Actually I never even look, I just put it into gear. In the morning I put it one back from Park, and back out of the parking spot. Then two more back, and it's into overdrive/auto. If I miss, I'll either be in neutral, or just plain drive. No biggie, but I'll know it by the RPM's.
And go ahead and take off the dash. All Ford/Mazda wiring harnesses have very secure electrical connectors. It usually take a very determined individual with a screwdriver to remove one. The only thing to worry about is getting the cluster back in right, so it doesn't squeak or rattle.
Meade
Took you long enough to cool down, huh?