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I have been a mazda owner since 1981 and have a mazda master technician since that time. have very please with mazdas. regarding the complaint about the check engine light problem , there is a small electrical vavle&hose assembly attached to vapor canister routed to intake manifold, by replaceing this & resetting check light this should cure the problem. second issue is about the clunking noise in the b-series 3000 or 4000 the noise is coming from the slip joint in the drive shaft, the only cure i have found is to remove the rubber boot covering this area of the joint and pack the female end of shaft with a heavy grease and reassemble this could last for year depending driving stress, hope this info may help some of you,keep posting and I do presently own a 1999 b-4000 4x4 4dr.5spd.atx. very please with it.
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I bought a 1997 Mazda B2300 SE Pick up with a towing package. The truck had 129,000 when I bought it and now has 132,800. I have been getting terrible gas mileage (15-19 mpg). I replaced the 8 spark plugs and 4 of the wires, put in a new air and fuel filter. The plugs looked like the original plugs by the way. The truck runs about the same and the mileage is about the same. I love the truck, but it gets poor mileage and is a dog. It has the 2.3l engine. Any help or suggestions to help the mileage would be great!
Clean out the throttle body, replace PCV Valve, and definitely run some injector cleaner into the vehicle. At your milage I would recommend some zMax too, as you should see a serious amount of improvement in smoothness and power.
Has anyone had problems shifting into first and second gears during cold weather? After you go thru gears a couple of times or when the weather is warm, the transmission shifts perfect. I had a 1986 Mazda B2000 5 speed (stiff in first and second when cold)for seven years and have recently purchased a 1990 Mazda B2200 5 speed (second truck)and it is also hard to shift (stiff) in first and second gears when cold. These are excellent trucks otherwise.
In my '03 Ranger 3.0l 5 speed (man). It is more noticable when the truck is still warming up, but it seems present all the time. I believe it is either the synchronizers or perhaps the lockout mechanism to prevent an accidental 3-2 shift while accelerating. It seems that as I let the RPM's fall to prepare for 2nd gear, and the stick is already halfway there it wants to wait a beat until fully going into 2nd position. I can push it through with a little muscle, and there doesn't seem to be any problems. But if I wait for the RPM's to reach under 2k, the stick will drop into 2nd position with only a little pressure.
I will ask some questions next time I'm at the dealership, and we'll see.
I have a 1999 Mazda B3000 and the check engine light is on. When I call Mazda they say it is caused by low pressure in the gas tank. They indicated I should just remove the blub. I know other people who also have this light on and just ignore it. Does anyone have any ideas? I did see one person who suggested that it was caused by an airline from vapor canister to intake manifole but there is no vapor canister on this model!
I think I can help you with this problem.......go look at post # 509 and 510(my posting to answer 509) and read what I wrote there. Usually is that sensor that makes the ck engine light come on and NOT the actual EGR valve. I took it to a good dealership that diagnosed this problem and fixed it for about $100 dollars and only took them 30 mins to do so. Look in your manual, and it will tell you how the three or four things that can make the light come on and how to remedy it...but read posting 509 over in the Ford ranger problems room and if you recognize those symptoms, I bet you have the same problem.......Hope this helps you out....if you have any more questions you can email me directly at ........ tekman88@yahoo.com
I am looking for window vents for my '01 B3000 Dual Sport standard cab. I went to Mazda's website but could not find them. Does anyone know of a website where I could order these? Thanks!
It seemed on my 3.0l manual ranger, when I tried shifting from 1st to 2nd, the stick would hit a lockout right in the middle of shifting gears. It seems the linkage was just not broken in. It only happened when cold, and while my truck had less than 1,000 miles. So it sounds to me like the lockout mechanism was just sticking a bit and needed some time to lubricate. On the original poster who had a 96 mazda, it might be the same issue where the shifter linkage just needs relubing or adjustment. Hope that helps!
Anyone have any advice on how to fix this annoying problem?....the sensor must be inside the door, so I'm not sure how to get to it short of taking door panel off...the old types could just be sprayed with a lubricant. sometimes the inside light goes off fast.....sometimes takes a few minutes. How much would it cost to have it replaced or can it be done "under the shade tree"...??
I think my transmission is slipping in my 96 B4000 LE Cab Plus but I don't know. I have never experienced a slipping trans. At 60 to 75 miles an hour it will jerk like it is losing grip. It has 70K miles on it. Any thoughts by anyone if this is a slip or something else? It is only starting to get 17 mpg on the road also. Help!
I think, though I'm not sure, that Mazda has a TSB on that door ajar sensor. It's a well-known problem. I'd recommend checking NHTSA's website TSB listings, or just call your Mazda dealer if you trust them.
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I bought a brand new 1999 Mazda B-3000 SE 4x4. From the day i drove off the lot the truck has absolutely sucked. It left the factory without bolts in the drive shaft, and the Mazda dealer/service dept could find nothing wrong with it and suggested i need to learn how to drive a manual better. I had to physically get him in the car with me driving and point out what was wrong. Then he realized it wasn't me. The car came with the wrong size fuel filter, thus they had to replace the gas lines. I had the Firestone tires, two of which blew out, and had to replace them myself. Three ridiculous recalls. Premium gas only. Crappy gas milage. Underpowered. At exactly 1,000 miles after the warranty expired the engine took a dump. One year later, all of the engine gaskets are leaking. Mazda offered to split the cost of the first engine failure and told me to pound salt regarding the second.
I have never bought a new car before, treated this car like it was a Rolls, was meticulous about maintenance and for my efforts i have a 99 Mazda with under 70K and going on the second engine rebuild.
The truck was built in the NJ Ford plant and i intent on bad mouthing Mazda trucks and the Mazda corporation to everyone i can.
I have a '99 B3000 that has just over 48,000 miles on it.....I'm wondering when the fan belt needs to be replaced?....and what other things might I need to do at the 50,000 mile mark?....thanks
I have the B2200 1993 with 109,000 miles on it. It only overheats when I drive above about 45 mph. Otherwise I could drive all day long and nothing hapens! This seems strange to me. Any ideas?
Don't miss the newest addition to our live chat events here in Town Hall. Join us every Tuesday from 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for our Mazda Mania Chat!
Whether you own a Mazda, would like to own a Mazda, or just like going ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM... be sure to stop by and meet and greet your fellow Town Hall users! (We may even pull out some Mazda triva questions)
It's awful quiet out here on the B Series Board. Just in case anyone is out there - I've got a 2002 B4000 4X4. Been happy with the truck. I've got 33k miles. The stupid Goodyear Wranglers are already going bald. I've never been real happy with wet weather traction (not hydroplaning - low speed grip). I'd like to replace them with something that will last longer, grip better on the wet, handle well on dry pavement and that is good off road and not cost a fortune. Any suggestions?
I've got a '94 B2300, 2.3L, 5 speed manual. My tranny went out, and I need another one. Dose anyone know where I can find a good used tranny, "cheep," or at least tell me where to start looking???????
There can be a few things wrong if you're overheating....thermostat stuck, plugged radiator, fan clutch. The radiator will more than likely need to be pulled and rodded. I think your radiator has plastic top & bottom caps. Hopefully they aren't cracked. I have an '88 B2200 with a modified radiator that works awesome. They punched out the center of the radiator and made it a 3 core, adding more cooling capacity. The cores are larger too. After going through the radiator, change the thermostat. Might as well do new hoses while you're in there.
I 'm going to look at Mazda '87 pickup-I assume it's B-Series, don't know anything about Mazdas or Mazda pickups. Don't know yet how many cylinders etc but do know it has about 145k miles and camper shell. the guy says that it basically runs wellenough but needs muffler and TLC. Any advice as to what to look for etc.?! He wants $750 Thanks!
"The owner's manual says 5w30 and canadian tire says 5w20. Should i listen to the manual or the garage? "
First, the reason why canadian tire calls for 5W-20 for your mazda B-300 is because in 2001-2002, Honda and Ford (then B-3000 is included)recommend 5W-20 in their light duty vehicule. The reason is simple...to save money! Let me explain. Auto manufacturer have to pay a tax who refers to fuel consumption of vehicules they build. 5W-20 grade oil decreased very slithly the fuel cunsumption, but enough to cross the line who separates 2 tax category. Then, this oil grade is to save money to manufacturer...not customers. Think about it, the 3 liters V6 engines didn't change between 2000 to 2002...so then, there is no reason why this engine would need a different oil viscosity to assure proper protection...this engine have been built with the same specifications than 1997, even older.
However, if you purchase 5W-20 from ford, you will notice that is a semi-synthetic. Less viscosity have been compensated by a better quality lube..that's why a semi-synthetic is used. However, beware before using any Castrol petroleum 5W-20 or similar non-synthetic product: Under severe or hot applications, the 5W-20 grade offer a thinner oil film that may lead to metal adhesion.
For that reason...continue to use a 5W-30 oil grade. This engine has been designed for 30 grade oil at normal operating temp. The 20 grade oil is for manufacturer's benefit (less environmental taxes)...not customers (if poor quality oil, engine wear increases).
Greetings all. With the gas prices going up and up, I'm considering buying a second vehicle. I've decided I'm going to get a small 2 wheel drive, regular cab (or if I can find a deal on one, an extended cab)truck. Theres not many vehicles in that category. I have a '99 Explorer, and I didn't realize that the Mazdas were EXACTLY the same as the rangers/explorers. I knew they were basically the same truck, but the dash is identical. With the dash being the same, and other aspects the same, I think I'd be making a smart move to get a vehicle that was identical on the inside. Also, according to Consumer Reports, the Mazdas/Rangers (2wd) up through 2000 have been very reliable. I'm taking on a job out of state, and will need something reliable with great mileage for the commute, and use the Explorer on the weekends. My questions for you guys are, what problems have you had with your Mazdas? Have you been overall satisfied? Also, what would you consider a good price on one, say, a 98-99 with around 50k miles? I found a really nice '99 with 43k miles for $5995. I've been looking at the Mazdas, Rangers (which are more expensive for some reason), S10s, Sonomas, and Tacomas (which all have high mileage in my price range.) I'm looking to spend no more than $6500, which I know is a very low amount, but I'll have to finance it. Already paying 200 a month on the Explorer, so I can't afford much over 100 more per month. Do you think this is wise? Also, what kind of mileage do you guys get with the 4 banger and even the 3.0 six? I'd also like to have a 5 speed, but I noticed there are some automatics too. Any suggestions, comments, etc are appreciated. Thanks!
I recently bought a snazzy new (2003) b-2300 pick up and now I'm thinking about a little cross country jaunt. I'd like to get a camper shell, but I don't want to pay $900 and up for a new one. Can anyone give me any advice about purchasing a used camper shell: things to beware of, places to buy (I'm in the Los Angeles area), and such? Thanking you in advance!
THINKING ABOUT PURCHASING A 1996 B4000 4WD 5SP HOW RELIABLE ARE THEY?WHAT PROBLEMS HAVE THERE BEEN WITH THIS MODEL? FRIENDS SAY THEY WERE HAVE TRANNY PROBLEMS WITH AUTOMATIC IN THE 92-94? THANKS
I recently found that one of my keys would not start my B4000 pickup (then only after killing my battery). My dealer indicated that my keys required re-programming at $100. This seemed kind of steep. Isn't there another way to get my two keys to function?
Some sorry *** stole the batter and cut my cables in my 86 mazda truck. I have 2 questions. the small guage extra lead from the pos. cable goes where?? and ...there is a cable to an 80 amp fuse that has been cut and I am bafflesd as to where it should terminate on the other end. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Has anyone had any problems with the failure of the 4x4 buttons inside a 94 B4000 ext cab? I can't seem to get my truck to go into 4x4 anymore. The buttons don't seem to be working (no longer lighting up), but I'm not sure if that is it, or, how I can troubleshoot it. Can anyone help?
Can anyone confirm that the front bumper brackets for the 94 B4000 are the same as the 94 Ford Ranger? I ordered the replacement bumper for the B4000 and it was an exact match, but the brackets for the 94 Ranger were way off.
Check the ignition wires that lead away from the key switch to the 4x4 module. I had a alarm system installed and the installed failed to re-connect both wires through the system. The 4x4 panel wouldn't work. After re-connection, the panel worked again.
I have a 2000 year B4000 SE 4wd and the center console padded armrest that hinges backward and sits on top of the console broke off shortly after i purchased the truck used 2 1/2 years ago. The mazda replacement it something like $350 which is absurd imo.
So i've looked for quite a while on online parts db's to see if somebody might have one and i've never found one. i did purchase a 2000 b3000 console for $50 sight unseen over the phone since the wrecking yard guy thought they were the same. they are not.
Even ebay has nothing and has had nothing. seems like there would be at least a couple of wrecked b4000's around somewhere and i think a ranger model probably has the same console but i haven't been able to figure out which one.
Does anybody have a good online source of mazda truck interior parts, most are only mechanicals or some outside parts?
Thanks much and the truck has been ok but is a gas hog and that hurts these days!
I own a 'tired' 96 B2300, and all of the sudden my windshiled wipers stopped working. I immediately checked the fuses but since i bought the truck used primarily for work, i don't have the book or any guide that shows me which fuse corresponds to the wipers. I only found one busted, replaced it, but still nothing. Can anyone help me narrow down the problem? Maybe the wiper motor? But why all of the sudden? ">
Does anybody know the shifter thread size for a '99 B-3000 5 speed? I want to change shifter knobs, but i don't know what size to buy. Any help is appreciated.
How do you get the housing off after you take off the hose? I see this round thing and it looks like the thermostat would fit inside but the bolts wont budge any ideas? Or Place to find repair instructions Owner manual was no help and haynes guide is 100 bucks
Help woman trying to fix her sons truck he cannot get the housing off after removing the hose to replace the thermostat
Hi All: Hope someone out here has some suggestions. I have a b300 i bought new in 2002. It only has 5K miles. The sucker from day 1 has always been missing. i have taken it back to the dealer 9 times, no check engine light therefore no problem. I have found using an inductive timing light that 3 of the 6 cyclinders stop firing up to 1 sec at a time regardless of engine speed. They don't do it at once, but still miss. They do this regularly at all speeds, so while driving down the freeway it momentarily looses some power. The other 3 cylinders fire reguarly and work fine. I showed this to the mechanic and they changed the ignition/coil, but not effect. I am at my wits end. Any ideas, suggestions ???? HELP please!
Hello - I know this email is old... and you prolly sold the truck or maybe... Did you ever get an answer? I have a similar issue... Symptoms exactly like you indicate. I just had a tune-up and they told me the DPFE Sensor was bad... I talked about slipping issue and they said it would probably fix that as they see nothing wrong with the tranny...
I have a B400 and am having a problem with the instrument cluster. Sometimes upon cranking the truck the water temperature gauge will peg all the way past high and the gasoline gauge will peg all the way past empty. If i hit the dash above the instruments they will go back to normal readings. Is it a short? Should I replace the gauges? What is the name of the part that controls that? Can I do the work myself or is it too involved like taking the dash apart. Thanks for your time. I love the truck otherwise. John
Comments
On topic: I drove my 4 month old B3000 out to vegas bringing it up to 10,600 perfect miles.
;-)
Back to the Mazda B Series...
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I will ask some questions next time I'm at the dealership, and we'll see.
-Chad in Houston
http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/Wind_and_Rain_Deflectors.htm
It seemed on my 3.0l manual ranger, when I tried shifting from 1st to 2nd, the stick would hit a lockout right in the middle of shifting gears. It seems the linkage was just not broken in. It only happened when cold, and while my truck had less than 1,000 miles. So it sounds to me like the lockout mechanism was just sticking a bit and needed some time to lubricate. On the original poster who had a 96 mazda, it might be the same issue where the shifter linkage just needs relubing or adjustment. Hope that helps!
It has 70K miles on it.
Any thoughts by anyone if this is a slip or something else? It is only starting to get 17 mpg on the road also.
Help!
Meade
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I have never bought a new car before, treated this car like it was a Rolls, was meticulous about maintenance and for my efforts i have a 99 Mazda with under 70K and going on the second engine rebuild.
The truck was built in the NJ Ford plant and i intent on bad mouthing Mazda trucks and the Mazda corporation to everyone i can.
Don't miss the newest addition to our live chat events here in Town Hall. Join us every Tuesday from 6-7pm PT/9-10pm ET for our Mazda Mania Chat!
Whether you own a Mazda, would like to own a Mazda, or just like going ZOOM ZOOM ZOOM... be sure to stop by and meet and greet your fellow Town Hall users! (We may even pull out some Mazda triva questions)
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Dusty
Don't know yet how many cylinders etc but do know it has about 145k miles and camper shell. the guy says that it basically runs wellenough but needs muffler and TLC.
Any advice as to what to look for etc.?!
He wants $750
Thanks!
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My clutch seems to be "sticking" or "catching".
How big of a problem is this?
What is involved?
What type of money am I looking at?
Thanks ahead of time for any replys!!
First, the reason why canadian tire calls for 5W-20 for your mazda B-300 is because in 2001-2002, Honda and Ford (then B-3000 is included)recommend 5W-20 in their light duty vehicule. The reason is simple...to save money! Let me explain. Auto manufacturer have to pay a tax who refers to fuel consumption of vehicules they build. 5W-20 grade oil decreased very slithly the fuel cunsumption, but enough to cross the line who separates 2 tax category. Then, this oil grade is to save money to manufacturer...not customers. Think about it, the 3 liters V6 engines didn't change between 2000 to 2002...so then, there is no reason why this engine would need a different oil viscosity to assure proper protection...this engine have been built with the same specifications than 1997, even older.
However, if you purchase 5W-20 from ford, you will notice that is a semi-synthetic. Less viscosity have been compensated by a better quality lube..that's why a semi-synthetic is used. However, beware before using any Castrol petroleum 5W-20 or similar non-synthetic product: Under severe or hot applications, the 5W-20 grade offer a thinner oil film that may lead to metal adhesion.
For that reason...continue to use a 5W-30 oil grade. This engine has been designed for 30 grade oil at normal operating temp. The 20 grade oil is for manufacturer's benefit (less environmental taxes)...not customers (if poor quality oil, engine wear increases).
Chow !
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My questions for you guys are, what problems have you had with your Mazdas? Have you been overall satisfied? Also, what would you consider a good price on one, say, a 98-99 with around 50k miles? I found a really nice '99 with 43k miles for $5995. I've been looking at the Mazdas, Rangers (which are more expensive for some reason), S10s, Sonomas, and Tacomas (which all have high mileage in my price range.) I'm looking to spend no more than $6500, which I know is a very low amount, but I'll have to finance it. Already paying 200 a month on the Explorer, so I can't afford much over 100 more per month. Do you think this is wise? Also, what kind of mileage do you guys get with the 4 banger and even the 3.0 six? I'd also like to have a 5 speed, but I noticed there are some automatics too. Any suggestions, comments, etc are appreciated. Thanks!
I recently bought a snazzy new (2003) b-2300 pick up and now I'm thinking about a little cross country jaunt. I'd like to get a camper shell, but I don't want to pay $900 and up for a new one. Can anyone give me any advice about purchasing a used camper shell: things to beware of, places to buy (I'm in the Los Angeles area), and such? Thanking you in advance!
Rue
HOW RELIABLE ARE THEY?WHAT PROBLEMS HAVE THERE BEEN WITH THIS MODEL?
FRIENDS SAY THEY WERE HAVE TRANNY PROBLEMS WITH AUTOMATIC IN THE 92-94?
THANKS
and ...there is a cable to an 80 amp fuse that has been cut and I am bafflesd as to where it should terminate on the other end. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Mike
Any ideas?
Hope that helps.
So i've looked for quite a while on online parts db's to see if somebody might have one and i've never found one. i did purchase a 2000 b3000 console for $50 sight unseen over the phone since the wrecking yard guy thought they were the same. they are not.
Even ebay has nothing and has had nothing. seems like there would be at least a couple of wrecked b4000's around somewhere and i think a ranger model probably has the same console but i haven't been able to figure out which one.
Does anybody have a good online source of mazda truck interior parts, most are only mechanicals or some outside parts?
Thanks much and the truck has been ok but is a gas hog and that hurts these days!
mike
Help woman trying to fix her sons truck he cannot get the housing off after removing the hose to replace the thermostat
Hope someone out here has some suggestions. I have a b300 i bought new in 2002. It only has 5K miles. The sucker from day 1 has always been missing. i have taken it back to the dealer 9 times, no check engine light therefore no problem. I have found using an inductive timing light that 3 of the 6 cyclinders stop firing up to 1 sec at a time regardless of engine speed. They don't do it at once, but still miss. They do this regularly at all speeds, so while driving down the freeway it momentarily looses some power. The other 3 cylinders fire reguarly and work fine. I showed this to the mechanic and they changed the ignition/coil, but not effect. I am at my wits end. Any ideas, suggestions ???? HELP please!
Did you ever get an answer? I have a similar issue... Symptoms exactly like you indicate.
I just had a tune-up and they told me the DPFE Sensor was bad... I talked about slipping issue and they said it would probably fix that as they see nothing wrong with the tranny...
Jorge
(I say Hmmmmmm)
John