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2005-2007 Toyota Avalon

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Comments

  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Maybe you removed the gas cap without adding fuel, enough fuel..

    Or maybe you left the gas cap loose....

    "took it to a mechanic."

    Who would more likely than not take advantage of you even if the problem were as simple as above.
  • 91199119119911 Member Posts: 54
    Before handing out a lot of money check/have somecheck the vacuum line under the engine air filter. These often come off when someone changes or checks the filter. Have someone else check the computer to see what the problem is. In Ga. Autozone will check it free, others that I know of is O'Reilly's. They will also sell you a part and some times install it for you free, depending on the length of time it takes. :)

    Good Luck,

    9119911
  • Lulu44Lulu44 Member Posts: 6
    I tried the gas cap thing already and nothing happened. I am going to get a second opinion before I do anything.
  • Lulu44Lulu44 Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for that bit of information. We don't have an O'Reilly's, but I will take it to AutoZone before I go to the dealership.
  • gomst1gomst1 Member Posts: 58
    If you left the gas cap off or something stuck open in the evap sys the code will be P0455=Evap Sys Gross Leak Detected. If you tightened the gas cap but not tight enough the code will be any of the following: P0455; P0442=Evap Small Leak or P0456=Evap Very Small Leak. Depending on the condition of the purge valve, you may have the same codes above so, it is not only the purge valve that can cause the above codes. Any problems on the Evap sys may give you these codes.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Assuming the initial problem might have been the gas cap it may take several days, "drive cycles" (depends on "your" driving style) to clear the CEL.
  • Lulu44Lulu44 Member Posts: 6
    Thank you for the vital information. The mechanics evaluation listed the following codes: P0441 and P0455. Do you have any suggestions on how and where I should repair the problem? I always worry that when they (mechanics) see a female coming they see an easy mark (sorry to sound like I am sterotyping mechanics-not my intentin). Thanks for your assistance.
  • jlsextonjlsexton Member Posts: 302
    Several weeks age I asked a simple question, no one answered it, perhaps you might be as so kind to try. I wanted to drain 1 gallon of coolant & replace it. I could not find any way to refill other than the overflow tank, even the drain was hidden, so any & all help would be appreciated. Usually a simple task if only one can find the ingress & egress.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Here is the technical definition, if it helps:

    P0441....Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow

    P0455....Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected (gross leak)

    Any one who understands the tech side of this is welcome to explain it to everybody.... but it really doesn't sound that complicated if you repair cars and sure doesn't look like $600... :)
  • necro1234necro1234 Member Posts: 23
    Hi everyone

    Just curious, so we worked out the top end is probably about 140mph on this car.
    Just curious how the heavy VW R32 with a far less powerful 3.2 L motor claims they limited the top end to 155mph if the more powerful Avalon motor could not even reach this.

    Is this claim of 155mph on a standard 3.2L V6 with no form of turbo realistic? as I was thinking it would be a weight vs horsepower scenario to see how far the motor could get the chunk of metal.

    The weight from what I read for both cars is about 3500 lbs, so weight is near equal.
    Power on the avalon is claimed at 168bhp @6200 with the VW claiming 250bhp @6300
    Torque for the avalon is claimed to be 248 lb.-ft. @ 4700 rpm where the VW is claimed at 236 @ 2,500-3,000

    So if you have a car that is pushing a fair amount less power+torque at about the same weight, how is it possible with aerodynamics that I dont think could account for a limited 155mph let alone anything over that?

    Just curious for the more technical folk here.

    Thanks and happy holidays everyone!!

    Sheldon
  • necro1234necro1234 Member Posts: 23
    Ok so I see on vw.com that they claim the estimated top speed of the R32 is 133mph which sounds more realistic, funny that all the media reviews claim that VW states its limited to 155mph which didnt make any sense.

    Thanks

    Sheldon
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Sheldon, FYI...

    The weight of a vehicle has very little to do with vehicle top speed, whatever it is. Reason: "Objects in motion tend to stay in motion...."

    The weight of a vehicle has everything to do with how long it takes to acheive top speed from rest. Reason: "Objects at rest tend to stay at rest...."

    For top speed limitations the single biggest factor is air, also known as aerodynamic drag (Cd). A smaller engine of less power can easily propel a different vehicle to a higher top speed if the body of the second vehicle is more aerodynamic. Physics 102...

    Enjoy an Avalon today... Great Cars.. :)
  • necro1234necro1234 Member Posts: 23
    Ta for the reply.

    Very true, I did not think of that.
    I've seen video's though with a (supposedly) stock standard R32 hitting 170mph, I wouldnt have thought the aerodynamics of the vehicle would have allowed it to get to that speed without more power.
    Especially on further research that for the 2008 R32 the Drag coefficient is listed as been .32 where the Avalons body is listed as been .29, would this not mean the car with the .29 coefficient would cut through the air better?

    Thanks again

    Sheldon
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Yes, a lower Cd means a vehicle will not disturb as much air and will be more efficient at high speed, all else remaining equal. Also, there is little difference up to about, say, 45 mph due to the basic design of the car itself. After that, Cd becomes more important very rapidly as frontal air pressure increases with the square of the speed... ;)
  • Modad55Modad55 Member Posts: 3
    Where is the Tech issue you refer to? I'm not doing well finding things on the forum yet. Thanks,
  • Modad55Modad55 Member Posts: 3
    This also applies to '07-'08 Camrys.
    The "check engine" and VSC lights came on, so I took it to the dealer. They tell me that I have to replace the O2 sensors and the intake manifold.
    The cost was $1,800. I have 45,000 miles and just passed 36 months.
    There is a Toyota Service Bulletin (T-SB-0114-08). Does anyone know anything about this? Is it common? What about the repair cost? Help! I am livid...this is supposed to be Toyota's top-of-the line car. So what's with a repair like this, only 9,000 miles out of warranty?
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Not sure on the TSB, will leave that to others, but... O2 sensors are easy to replace and should not cost anything near the $1800. number you use, labor and parts. Replacement is not unusual, they do fail, but this is a little earlier than most.

    The intake manifold itself is a major engine component and, absent some very unusual situation, is seldom replaced. You need to ask "why" as to this part. In addition, it may be part of the powertrain warranty and replacement may be free, if needed.

    Suggest you try another dealer, this one is very suspect, based on your information. Post your results. Hope this helps. :)
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    Emissions control warranties extend FAR beyond the normal factory warranty.
  • Modad55Modad55 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the input. I'll post my progress.
  • amauhryamauhry Member Posts: 55
    fin,

    Ok, aerodynamic is a big factor in many designs. Coefficient of drag for most family cars we see on the street doesn’t differentiate to the point to account for significant difference in vehicle speed.

    Here’s this question: which will accelerate faster from rest, a two-cylinder motorcycle (standard specs; no fancy bike) or a Caterpillar truck generating, say, 2000 ft-lbf of torque?

    …and for the sake of this argument, the bike will leave the Caterpillar in the dust too.

    Do you all think it is only the drag factor that will give the edge to the bike? If so, think again.

    Amaury
    '08 Limited
  • necro1234necro1234 Member Posts: 23
    I personally would think it would be the power to weight ratio that would count the most.
    The bike that may push out far lower torque and bhp also has hardly any weight to deal with, which of course is a different story with the caterpillar.

    Least thats my thought on it :)

    Cheers

    Sheldon
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    Don't confuse the rate of acceleration of a vehicle, such as an Avalon, with the theoretical top speed calculations for the vehicle. These are two different things, figured different ways.

    As an object (bike, Avalon, truck, etc.) accelerates, the weight of the object becomes less important and the aerodynamic shape, if you have air as a factor, becomes more important, all else remaining constant.

    You have the concept essentially correct, as does the post after yours. It can be confusing at times... but it's really just basic physics. Toyota engineers know what a vehicle will do before it is ever built and tested on a track just like Boeing knows what a plane will do without ever flying it. It's the things you missed that make engineering exciting.... :)
  • amauhryamauhry Member Posts: 55
    fin,

    There is a factor in design between the motorcycle and the Caterpillar that explicitly tells you why the Caterpillar, with its massive engine generating about 2,000 ft-lbf of torque and ~ 600 hp, has a top speed of just about 50 mph whereas the bike, with its tiny engine producing just a fraction of the truck’s energy and power output, has an equal or greater top speed.

    Better yet, explain why the Space Shuttle Crawler Transporter (the flatbed that transports the shuttle from its hangar to the launch pad) generating way over 5,000 hp has a top speed of less than 1 mph (at this speed aerodynamic drag is insignificant). I can assure you that my Avy, just like the bike, generating a meager 268 hp, will leave the Crawler in the dust too in no time.

    The modern-day Somalia pirates are taking full advantage of this difference in design by simply using common sense. Their tiny vessels are capable of intercepting and outrunning the huge ships out in the Indian Ocean.

    Yes, as you said it, it’s all about physics, Newtonian physics to be precise. But you still keep missing the answer.

    Amaury
    '08 Limited
  • angeange Member Posts: 158
    I have a 2005 and they replaced the intake manifolds to try to minimize the hesitation in the transmission shifting at slow speeds. It helped but did not resolve the problem. The manifolds should be covered by Toyota. Ask what do the manifolds have to do with check engine light? I think you are entitled to free manifolds costs. Good Luck
  • theroyalmiketheroyalmike Member Posts: 7
    Hi
    Considering buying a couple of Avalon’s for a Taxi service and have some questions.
    Any opinions on using Avalon as a Taxi
    Trying to piece together service recommendations for Avalon any one have a copy of Toyota recommendations.
    Do they have factory running lights as standard as I am in Canada but will probably buy from the USA
    What grade fuel are you running is it happy enough on regular or do you need premium
    What should I look out for when buying used specific to Avalon.
    Thanks in advance
  • pcc49pcc49 Member Posts: 25
    Hi Mike:

    I own a 2006 Avalon Limited and have nothing but praise for the car! It is powerful, roomy and runs on regular! Yes, the owner's manual even says it runs on regular.I think this car will be perfect for a taxi. I have over 100K miles now. I have changed tires once and front brake only. It is quiet and drives very smooth and "effortless"!
  • jlsextonjlsexton Member Posts: 302
    I personally had only one problem of concern, it was with the Limited Smart Key, the vehicle refused to start, acted like it was running, ground the starter. Towed to Toyota, they found nothing, has acted up once after that, disconnected the battery overnight, been good since then, that was September. Large back seat, not a large trunk for a car this size, probably because of the back seat. Found it runs best on Mobil regular, terribly on Sunoco. Mobil I get 22 around town, was up to 34 coming back from my niece's on that long trip. Sunoco I went down to 15-16 around town, only purchased it once. Some off brands were good, doubt if you have them, Quik-Chek, Stewart's Shops also gave good mileage. Good luck, please keep your cold weather up there, I'm tired of clearing my driveway.
  • jlsextonjlsexton Member Posts: 302
    Missed you, hate to ask but how's the car business, here in NY it's lousy.
  • jim2006jim2006 Member Posts: 6
    Hello,
    Just an update. I had tsb st002-06, replace steering box, clunking noise, done DEC. 07. That was at 28k, noise stopped everything ok. At 38k, noise started again
    , brought back to dealer at 39k, Jan. 09. Since out of warranty was told it would be on me. Sent email to Toyota, from Toyota.com page. I stated this seemed to be premature failure and did they think this was right. Toyota contacted the dealer, who contacted me to make an appointment to check car, (Avalon xl 2006). They first tried a new tsb-0296-0819, this puts lots of grease in the steering assembly.
    That didn't help. The Toyota reginoal rep. said they would pay for a new steering box even though it was out of warranty. The service manager at the dealer said since I paid for the failed attempt tsb-0296-0819, cost $121, the dealer would pick up the labor for the steering box. Work done, noise gone. The service people still are not sure what causes failure. Some think spline gears wear and cause free play. Service manager thinks it's the universal joint, (in steering box), wears and causes free play and
    clunk noise. All hoped new part (steering box) was better engineered and problem would not recur. New part warranty one year, I will be watching closely. I thought Toyota did the right thing when they did not have to. It gives me a little hope when people stand behind their products and work. Happy Motoring.
  • sbmansbman Member Posts: 12
    Hi Jim, I also just had the clunking noise serviced for 06 Touring under extended warranty @ 33,000 miles. They did the grease trick and it only reduced it some. I will have to take it back again. Glad to hear that Toyota supported you - as they should have.

    My wife's Bonneville has done the same thing. Dealer replaced some steering parts and the noise was gone for about a year. Its back again big time. This will be at my expense and about $300.00. May be a universal design problem for some cars.
  • winifred2winifred2 Member Posts: 2
    On 2/9/09 a Regional Field Technical Specialist from Toyota evaluated my Avalon and found a pin or small rod (there are two) in the L. front passenger side brake) that was sticking, and lubricated it to prevent any future occurances. They also,
    as a courtesy, gave me and additional extended warranty at no additional cost.
    I am feeling much better about Toyota now. Thank you for having this website.
  • fxshenatefxshenate Member Posts: 5
    Hello all...not sure if there is an extended warranty forum but if someone could tell me how much I should look to pay for a Toyota Extended Warranty for an 06 Avalon XLS with 44,000 miles. I have no idea. Thanks!! :confuse:
  • popsavalonpopsavalon Member Posts: 231
    Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think you can get a TOYOTA warranty after the original warranty (36K) expires.

    Call 1-800-530-5789, Midwest Toyota, Hutchison, Kansas, for info. They have close to best prices if available. I paid just over $600 for zero deductable, Platinum Warranty for my 07 Avalon.
  • fabusfabus Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2006 Toyota AVALON LTD. in New York ( Brooklyn). I bought it as a flood Vehicle and have not been able to fix it for the Past Year.
    I have changed all the Computer Boards and it keeps blowing out the Main Computer hence not taking any charge to allow it to start.
    I AM DESPERATELY IN NEED OF HELP. IF YOU ARE EN ELECTRICAL GENIUS AND CAN FIX IT PLEASE HELP. Nearby Toyota Garage is Useless, they cant help.
  • jlsextonjlsexton Member Posts: 302
    So somewhere you have a short, either to ground or 2 wires. You need to remove all chassis grounds, get out your voltmeter and start the LONG process of hunt & peck. I have to assume you have had a diagnostic run by someone with no results. Either you have a hard short as in a wire grounded or 2 touching or water is still present causing a bridge. Try a heat gun first, see if it clears, then as stated if not a voltmeter and a search. Hope you got it REALLY cheap.............

    Why any Toyota garage can't help is beyond me, maybe they don't want the headache.
  • branch15_5branch15_5 Member Posts: 44
    Jim, a question about your steering clunk. Was $121 the entire cost of the repair of the steering box replacement? If not, what would that be?

    I'm having the same problem with my 06 XLS. It gets worse as the outside temperature increases. I originally thought it was a strut mount issue, but the box may be the problem.

    Thanks
  • fabusfabus Member Posts: 3
    Thanks,
    I wish it didnt cost that much. Its really Low milage though. 4800. The previous Electricial Mech advised to buy New Harness for the car but it costs too much.
    So really at a cross road.
    Any help / advise wld help.
    Regards.
  • jerseybearjerseybear Member Posts: 6
    I just buy a 05 avalon limited (53K, full loaded) today from some Infiniti dealer in New Jersey. the dealer offers me a $2000, 4 years bumper to bumper warranty, with NO DEDUCTIBLE and NO MILEAGE LIMIT, because the 05 and up comes with a lot electrical stuffs. It would be very expensive for repair.

    This is my first avalon, shall I take the offer or not? Thanks for your comments
  • jlsextonjlsexton Member Posts: 302
    I had my 06 for almost 3 years, no electrical problems. Warranty Direct should be cheaper, they give a bumper to bumper for around $1500, I believe that was the price they quoted me. My problem was getting them to define exactly what THEIR bumper to Bumper actually covered, read their website explanation, to me it was not explanatory enough. If you get an exact coverage from them please post it, I tried several others, this was recommended, good luck.
  • wwestwwest Member Posts: 10,706
    You can get that same extended warranty for less than ~$700, just go to a different dealer.
  • necro1234necro1234 Member Posts: 23
    I paid about $2500.00 from my dealer for 7 year/100000 mile (which ever comes first) and if I don't ever use the warranty, they reimburse me my $2500.00.

    Cheers

    Sheldon
  • jerseybearjerseybear Member Posts: 6
    Would this steering column (noise) problem lead to the loss of control of the car, beside the annoying noise? what's the worst possible consequence?

    How much It could cost to have it fixed permanently?
  • jerseybearjerseybear Member Posts: 6
    much better than the one offered by Infiniti dealer!

    Is that toyota plaitnum extended program? It seems different Toyota dealers sell the package in quite different prices.
  • jerseybearjerseybear Member Posts: 6
    Below is from the Infiniti Elite Extended protection plan( it is NOT a comprehensive list)

    let me start from a few items not covered: Paint, exhaust system, carpet, glass, upholstery, soft trim, weatherstripping, battery, clutch disc(manual transmission), tires, disc brake rotors, spueaks, rattles, water leaks, wind noise.

    Vehicle components covered:

    Engine: engine mechanical, lubrication & cooling system, fuel system, intake/exhaust manifolds, engine electrical, emission control systems, electrical fuel injection/ECC

    Power train: transmission, propeller shafts differential, transfer case;

    Steering system:

    Front and rear suspension:

    Brakes:

    Road wheels:

    Body& Interior

    Electrical: body electrical, heater & air conditioning

    Audio & Video components: cellular, Audio/ Video/navigation, mobile entertainment system
  • jerseybearjerseybear Member Posts: 6
    quite a few of people complain about the Steering Column (or Shaft) Noise, and some of them seem already have it for two years. I am wondering how much dangerous this Steering Column (or Shaft) Noise problem could be?

    Would Steering Column (or Shaft) Noise jeopardize the driver? I mean is there any potential threat to the driver's life? like loss of the control of the car,.........

    Otherwise, I would let it be, since My 05 avalon is out of warranty and the noise is not that much. So far, the steering operation is still smooth, except the clunk noise when making a turn in local.
  • angeange Member Posts: 158
    I found a Toyota dealer in Mass who sold me one for 985 7 yrs or 100,000 miles. Phone no. 413-772-0231.

    My Toyota dealer tried to pull a fast one one last week. When I started the car it missed like running on 5 cylinders and the check engine like came on.I drove 4 miles and would not go cver 40 mph. Parked it in the garage. Took it next day, the light went out. The service mgr. told me they found nothing and normally I would be charge $89.00 for checking the computer, but would pass this time. My contract does not cover this if they fine nothing wrong. Lesson learned, take car immediately so they can see for themselves. Why didn't the computer record the check engine light? ange
  • jlsextonjlsexton Member Posts: 302
    Hope it is a good one, as with all things in life it is WHAT you get for your money not necessarily the price.
  • jerseybearjerseybear Member Posts: 6
    Last week, I had four new michelin tires installed and balanced in Sears. After that, I got steering wheel shaking at 65 mile and up.

    I went back to Sears, and the technician had all the four new michelin tires rebalanced. Unfortunately, the shimmy is still there.

    Finally, I went to some Toyota dealer. They checked it out and found out that the two front wheels were incorrectly balanced. And they charged me $79 for it. There is NO more shimmy, then, even I hit 90 mile on highway.

    Does Toyota dealer really have some high-tech balance machine? or It is due to the careless work at Sears? I thought tire balance is NOT a hard job and could be done at most garages.

    BTW, do you think I need have the two back wheels rebalanced too at Toyota dealer for another $79?
  • jlsextonjlsexton Member Posts: 302
    What kind of balance did SEARS do, a static or high speed. Me, I'd be at the managers throat asking for my money back or at least compensate you for your costs & trouble. Sears is NOT the same company it once was, as a past loyal customer I purchased appliances there, you would think when you're spending money in this environment they would treat you better but they don't. I trust my Toyota car store, I knew the sales manager as a young boy.
  • finfin Member Posts: 594
    The question, and answer, is probably in the prior post that uses the terms "static" and "high speed" as to balance. Here's the difference, simplified: One method balances the rim/tire on a machine and then the tire goes on the car. You do not balance the brake rotor or other moving wheel parts. The "high speed" balance spins the tire on the car and thus balances all things that rotate. You can see the difference. Performance vehicles generally use the latter as even 1 oz of incorrect balance becomes a major vibration at 100+ mph.

    After several decades of driving on Michelins I can tell you, my opinion, the problem is Sears. Normally Michelins are OK without the on-car balance job. They are great tires. But any ride is better with tires balanced on the car. If you feel no vibration from the rear leave them alone unless you cruise at 90+, then just rebalance all four when you rotate. There is no special machine at the Toyota dealer, just a service manager and a tire tech guy who are more interested in the job than the people at Sears......
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