You did not indicate whether the mirror works when you simply adjust it from the switch??
If you can adjust it up/down and side to side using the adjusting switch, then you know the motor and its gears work. Then, be sure to leave the mirror switched to the passenger mirror and try backing again. If that doesn't work take it to your dealer.
I don't know if anyone has ran into this problem but I am stumped. My radio and navigation buttons do not work. It froze 2 days ago. Now when I start the car the navigation boots up but I can't hit the ok button because the touch screen doesn't work. Sometimes if I tap on the radio I can get the radio to work until I turn the car off and the navi momentarily(seconds to work) but can't see the screen. Also 1/2 the time when I turn the car off whatever is on the screen if anything stays on even with the key out. If you know anything I would appreciate any help
Can you tell me how to change the air filter in my 04 tl? I just cant seem to figure out where it is and dont want to start taking stuff apart without knowing where it is. Embarrasing that I can find it...thanks
I am wondering if car washes, where the car moves through a tunnel while being sprayed with soap and water, is safe for wheels. What I mean is that if wheels going to end up having scratches or burns since TL's wheels sticks out of tires a bit. I hear it is easy to put curb scratches on wheels with TLs.
Can you tell me how to change the air filter in my 04 tl? I just cant seem to figure out where it is and dont want to start taking stuff apart without knowing where it is. Embarrasing that I can find it...thanks
I wanted to start this post so that 2005 owners can inform each other what parts of their cars are starting to require replacement or repair. This way, all 2005 owners will know what they need to fix/replace before it breaks.
BG Frigi Clean - kills mold, $40 - do Annually bottle comes with hose and screws injected thru AC exhaust dealer wants $120 you can do it for $30 labor and $40 bottle with independent mechanic you can buy the Frigi Clean set at Honda/Acura make sure mechanic gives it 20 mins to dry out the foam do the FrigiClean before you add new internal cabin air filter so that your old filter can collect the mess
Radiator Flush every 20,000-25,000 if lots of stop and go or every 2 years - 2 bottle of coolant (antifreeze) + BG kit
Power Steering Flush - every 25,000 - 30,000 (3 bottles) or every 2 years
Transmission Flush - every 30,000 or every 2 years - DEALER ONLY - 15 quarts + BG additive - or 4 quarts if drain and fill only
Air Filter and Internal Cabin Filter every 12,000-15,000 miles or once/twice per year (depends on your environment and driving)
Spark plugs - every 50,000 miles for regular plugs, or every 60,000 - 100,000 with Iridium or Double Platinum (labor $200, plugs $200) - Independent Mechanic will not allow you to buy plugs and bring it to their shop b/c of liability
Car Battery - every 3-7 years, check readings at each oil change, most places would say on average 3 years is best
Alternator - every 5-7 years
Starter - every 7-10 years
Wiper Blades - annually
Timing Belt - every 100,000 miles or 7 years, may want to replace water pump when you replace the belt - best to do with Dealer for peace of mind
Brakes - every 40,000 miles, will need new ceramic brake pads from Acura best to buy new rotors (3rd party ok) instead of resurfacing the rotors ideally to get new rotors at each brake change but ok if you pass 40,000 and do it at 80,000 miles
Brake Flush - every 30,000 or when brakes are being done - DEALER ONLY
Suspension - dependent on driving conditions
PCV Valve - at 30,60, and 90,000, $140, helps engine to breathe
I must have been pretty negligent with my 2000 TL. I drove it for 70K miles in 9 years and my Grand Daughter has put another 15K on it in the past year and it wasn't in the garage except for oil and the tranny recall. I put brakes and rotors on it right before selling it to the GD but none of the things you mentioned were ever done on it except the battery. No flush of anything, not even antifreeze. It still got 30 MPG in 90 MPH vacation trips. It seems to me you spent a lot of unnecessary money.
I can appreciate anyone who wants to take care of their car, just as they would take care of a family member, especially after paying so much for it; But, that maintenance schedule is on the extrerme upper level for the average owner.
The average vehicle these days is built to go around 100,000 miles with only regular oil changes and the occasional service on wear items, like tires and brake pads. I've put over 200,000 miles on each of my last 3 cars basically changing the synthetic oil every 5,000 miles and replacing the wear items (including a battery every 5 years).
Again, I commend you on your rigorous attention to your vehicle but I'd watch putting in any additives or cleaners not specifically recommended by the manufacturer, as they can change performance characteristics of existing fluids and affect seals. Just because a dealer provides the additive doesn't change this. It's these additives and cleaners where the dealer makes the bucks .
I can say that if I'd ever needed to buy a used car, I'd buy yours.
I have a 2004 TL with automatic transmission, bought in December 2003. It sticks in third gear or fourth gear. It started a few days ago. The engine light, traction control light, and exclamation warning lights come one. I see there was a recall on the transmissions on early 2004 models, which certainly includes mine. How many others have had this problem, and what was done about it?
Hi, I have a 2008 TL and have noticed a loud rattling/vibration on my front passenger side door; I've isolated the rattle to a loose body panel; its the black piece in the upper left corner of the door which is connected to the door handle; that piece is really loose and I can actually pull it up; I took it to my local Acura dealer and they told me too "turn the radio up while I drive so I don't hear the sound"; I see Acura customer service is going down the toilet; anyway, if I push in on the panel and hold it in with my hand while the car is being driven, the sound goes away but as soon as I take my hand away the rattling/vibration comes back; I was hoping to get some recommendation as to what I can do personally to get rid of the sound? could I put some super glue behind it to try and hold it in place? any help would be greatly appreciated!!
Dead batteries have been a problem for me in my 06 TL. The second one prompted more testing and replacement of HFL as mentioned in the link. Unfortunately, I've had other battery failures for no good reason.
The standard warranty is usually 4/50. I believe the transmission warranty was longer but I am not positive?? Check with your dealer or website or someone on this forum who knows more assuredly, perhaps. I'd still get it diagnosed at the dealer and push hard or call Acura 800 mothership number to push for an exception if not.
My 06 side mirror is more "ratchety" than before but still goes down. I was going to ask them to look at it at my next oil change. Any problems with this from others?
I had them look at mine during last oil change. I still am trying to figure out why both don't reverse angle like when I first got the TL. Now only one or the other goes down. They both should reverse angle when you reverse..
I have 06 TL/Navi and no problems at all. Regular Oil Changes/Rotate Tires is all I've done. 45K Miles. I am looking to sell me. :-) How much are you paying to get 06TL
Have a 2007 TLS 45K No problems. Oil changes / filters / Transmission flush / tire rotation / brakes. Just regular service items. Very happy... so happy i am buying a second Acura a 2010 TSX v6 w/ nav. Make sure the owner you purchase from has all their service records. Good luck on your purchase.
'05 TL w/~59,000 trouble-free miles. Lousy in the snow, till I got snow tires. A couple of rattles fixed under warranty. Other than that, routine maintenance and ~23mpg in mixed driving.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Got a flyer from a local dealer for $199.95 per axle (I guess that means 2 ?), and flyer from Midas for $129.95. Do I really have to go to Acura dealer for brake pads or Midas (or local shops) works the same, too? What might possibly the case that I have to change rotor and the ball-points quotes for resurfacing/replacing? Thanks,
Hi everyone, I have had my 2008 base TL for just about 11 months now and it was running fine up till about 3 weeks ago; I noticed when starting the car there was a loud chain saw like sound coming from the engine compartment and I had difficulty turning the car wheel which in turn made the sound worse; a day later I took it to my local Acura dealer and they looked the car over; there was virtually no power steering fluid left in the car and the service manager said that what was causing the sound; they refilled the fluid and the sound stop; just about a week later I started feeling a slight pull in the wheel and the sound started returning; took it back to the dealership and the power steering fluid was at low level again; the dealership put the car on the lift and couldn't find anything wrong or leaking and refilled the fluid and sent me on my way; I'm getting concerned because there is obvious a leak somewhere and this is turning into a major safety issue with the car; if I lose to much fluid the wheel will lock up and I could get into a accident; the dealership acts like nothing is wrong and seems to not want to keep the car and really get to the bottom of finding out what the problem is; if I don't get resolution with them I'll be reporting them to Acura headquarters and bringing the problem to their attention; I know there is a recall on the power steering hose for this model and I brought it to the attention of the service department and they said that they've looked at the hose and it is okay and not leaking yet they can't seem to find a leak or why within a weeks timeframe I'm losing almost all my power steering fluid; I wanted to find out if anyone has had a similar problem and if so how was it resolved?????
I'd contact Acura first to report the dealer and ask for assistance, and then report the situation to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration that handles vehicle recalls and let Acura know you are doing it.
Any dealer that allows any vehicle to leave its shop without finding where the fluid is going doesn't deserve to be repairing cars in my opinion.
I just got off the phone with an Acura dealer in Los Gatos. My stock rims are scraped to the point where I would like to get new rims. I am interested in getting a brand new set of A-Spec 18" chrome rims. He said that starting in 2010 these rims will no longer be available for purchase. They are discontinued items.
I have a very hard time believing this to be true. Can someone please confirm this? Or is this just wrong information like I suspect?
I am a firm believer in contacting the BBB. They seem to get real quick responses since no dealer wants an unresolved charge against them. You will be amazed at the speed of the response.
Have you got any friends that work on cars? Find someone to help you replace the pads/rotors this first time and you will never pay to have it done again. Just be safe when jacking it up and don't crawl under the car.
I drive a base 2008 TL that came with OEM Michelin Pilots for about 6000 miles. Most of time, I feel a harsh/rough ride from vibrations/shimmy through the steering wheel and peddles
BUT, sometimes (after work), the ride is perfect (very smooth). I don't know if the tempertaure is related. After work (about 0230pm ), the weather is hotter in LA.
I do not know if this is caused from tires or others. I took my car to dealer couple times and they said my car is normal compared to others.
Have an Acura TL coming off a lease with AFS soon. I would like to have it certified as I intend to purchase it direct from AFS. Appreciate any information of the best way to accomplish this with an Acura dealer and an expected reasonable cost for the certification. All required maintenance has been performed to date. So far several Acura dealership have been less than helpful and vague on this cost issue.
Could be the temp. You're probably going to work very early if you're getting off at 2:30 so the temp variance could be quite a bit. Rubber is harder at cooler temps so that could explain possibly. Does the ride seem rougher for the first few miles in the AM and get gradually better? If so, that would probably explain it cause you're tires have warmed up. When you go home in the PM they are already good and hot.
Thanks for m6user's response. Yes, I go to work at 0550AM: The ride is rough all the way to work about 10 miles. When I go home 0230PM, sometimes the ride is roght and sometimes smooth. When the ride is smooth, acceleration is better (sensitive). When the ride is rough, acceleration is worse. I took my car to dealer couple times, and they could not find anything wrong. So confused and frustrated. Any ideas? Thanks
Rough ride and acceleration should have nothing to do with each other. It's probably some kind of mental association. Your tires may not warm up fully in just ten miles. Can't explain the ride home differences unless it's a different route. :confuse:
I guess that depends on how bad it is. You will probably have a hard time getting a dealer to give you new tires for something they can't (or don't) experience when you take it in. The first thing I would do is check my air pressure in all four tires and make sure they are properly filled and all the same pressure. Then I would have the balance of each tire checked as whatever you're experiencing may be aggravated by cold tires and less noticeable when the tires are warm.
If it is really bad and shocks or something are involved that is beyond my expertise.
I would have someone else that knows cars drive the car first thing in the morning and get thier input if you can find someone to get up that early.
The tires aren't covered by Acura . .they are warrantied by the tire manufacturer. And from your description, they will tell you there is nothing wrong with the tires, it is something in the suspension or alignment.
Have your front tires checked for the correct balance. Sometimes a tire a not balanced 100% correctly and because it's on the rear you don't notice. When you have the tires rotated that tire is now on the front and it shows up as a slot wobble in the steering wheel at certain higher speeds. Not to say that is the problem but is a cheap check.
Thank you for all suggestions Had my front tires checked yesterday. The balance is fine. They put more pressure to my tire and it seems driving better. Before: 32 PSI (Colde) Now : 34 PSI (Code)
What are your tire (cold) pressure that runs well?
I have a 05 TL. I recently noticed my right front tire rubbing when coming out of left turn. I am having trouble pin pointing the actual spot where the tire is rubbing. I think that the shocks or something related might be loosing fluid, but actually have no idea. Looking for any advise.
I have an 04 w/ about 80,000 miles on it....I don't change the oil myself. I usually will schedule an appointment with the dealer and it's $45.00 or so, but when you call in advance my dealer will give me a car to use for the day. Usually drop it off in the am, and pick up the next morning. Can't really beat that. I took to a quick change last time and it was $53.00.....
The dealership is a little out of the way - would probably change myself, but don't have a place to dispose the oil.
The MPG really varies. One thing about this car is you have to stay after the tire inflation. If i am not at 32psi all the way around not only can I feel it, but I see it in the mpg.
Pure Highway driving 80-90 mph 30+mpg Mixture 22 City 18
I use the 89 grade gas..The service manager at the dealership I bought told me that is all the car needs. Used 87 and mileage went way down. Used High octane for a month and no difference. So I stick with the 89. Can't go wrong when the man whose supposed to know everything about your car tells you to do it. They did strongly advocate not to use the 87 octane!
Are there any online OEM parts place? An online search seem to find URLs that are just portals into the same place.
I remember 20 years ago when I got my first Acura that A&H Motorsport in Pennsylvania had OEM parts at great discounts but now it seems like they are out of the parts business and more into service.
I just recently got an '09 TL AWD. Looking for air filter, cabin filter, all weather floor mats, etc.
I would recommend this business for "Exact Fit" floormats: http://www.weathertech.com/ I purchased their "Digital Fit" all weather floor mats for my 08 TL for both front and rear that fit like glove. They have Gray, Tan and Black. Acura did not have Gray and I wanted Gray to more closely match the interior and I saw their AD in a auto magazine and found they had very good reviews.
Comments
If you can adjust it up/down and side to side using the adjusting switch, then you know the motor and its gears work. Then, be sure to leave the mirror switched to the passenger mirror and try backing again. If that doesn't work take it to your dealer.
Is it safe to get a 05 Acura TL, but with 140000+ miles?
If the center position is selected neither mirror will rotate. That is the off position.
my e mail: selig1@ix.netcom.com
I wanted to start this post so that 2005 owners can inform each other what parts of their cars are starting to require replacement or repair. This way, all 2005 owners will know what they need to fix/replace before it breaks.
- Alternator
- Starter
- Transmission
- Suspension
As for other parts, here is the maintenance schedule that I go by
It's a bit more preventive than what is in the manual
Fuel Induction every 15,000 miles-30,000 miles or 1 year - DEALER ONLY
Fuel Induction tx requires a special machine ONLY AT DEALER
Fuel induction uses BG 44 (stronger than CF5)
Fuel Injection tx is just a bottle of BG CF5 into gas tank every 7,500 miles
http://ezinearticles.com/?Car-Repair-Prices:-Fuel-Injection-Services,-Are-They-W- - - orth-It?&id=300855
BG Frigi Clean - kills mold, $40 - do Annually
bottle comes with hose and screws
injected thru AC exhaust
dealer wants $120
you can do it for $30 labor and $40 bottle with independent mechanic
you can buy the Frigi Clean set at Honda/Acura
make sure mechanic gives it 20 mins to dry out the foam
do the FrigiClean before you add new internal cabin air filter so that your old filter can collect the mess
Radiator Flush every 20,000-25,000 if lots of stop and go or every 2 years
- 2 bottle of coolant (antifreeze) + BG kit
Power Steering Flush - every 25,000 - 30,000 (3 bottles) or every 2 years
Transmission Flush - every 30,000 or every 2 years - DEALER ONLY
- 15 quarts + BG additive
- or 4 quarts if drain and fill only
Air Filter and Internal Cabin Filter every 12,000-15,000 miles or once/twice per year (depends on your environment and driving)
Spark plugs - every 50,000 miles for regular plugs, or every 60,000 - 100,000 with Iridium or Double Platinum (labor $200, plugs $200) - Independent Mechanic will not allow you to buy plugs and bring it to their shop b/c of liability
Car Battery - every 3-7 years, check readings at each oil change, most places would say on average 3 years is best
Alternator - every 5-7 years
Starter - every 7-10 years
Wiper Blades - annually
Timing Belt - every 100,000 miles or 7 years, may want to replace water pump when you replace the belt - best to do with Dealer for peace of mind
Brakes - every 40,000 miles, will need new ceramic brake pads from Acura
best to buy new rotors (3rd party ok) instead of resurfacing the rotors
ideally to get new rotors at each brake change but ok if you pass 40,000 and do it at 80,000 miles
Brake Flush - every 30,000 or when brakes are being done - DEALER ONLY
Suspension - dependent on driving conditions
PCV Valve - at 30,60, and 90,000, $140, helps engine to breathe
rotate tires every 6,000 miles
No flush of anything, not even antifreeze. It still got 30 MPG in 90 MPH vacation trips.
It seems to me you spent a lot of unnecessary money.
The average vehicle these days is built to go around 100,000 miles with only regular oil changes and the occasional service on wear items, like tires and brake pads. I've put over 200,000 miles on each of my last 3 cars basically changing the synthetic oil every 5,000 miles and replacing the wear items (including a battery every 5 years).
Again, I commend you on your rigorous attention to your vehicle but I'd watch putting in any additives or cleaners not specifically recommended by the manufacturer, as they can change performance characteristics of existing fluids and affect seals. Just because a dealer provides the additive doesn't change this. It's these additives and cleaners where the dealer makes the bucks .
I can say that if I'd ever needed to buy a used car, I'd buy yours.
http://www.in.honda.com/rjanisis/pubs/SB/B08-057.pdf
The second one prompted more testing and replacement of HFL as mentioned in the link.
Unfortunately, I've had other battery failures for no good reason.
the engine is cold. It quickly goes away as the engine warms up.
Is this anything to be concerned about?
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Any dealer that allows any vehicle to leave its shop without finding where the fluid is going doesn't deserve to be repairing cars in my opinion.
I have a very hard time believing this to be true. Can someone please confirm this? Or is this just wrong information like I suspect?
You will be amazed at the speed of the response.
Most of time, I feel a harsh/rough ride from vibrations/shimmy through the steering wheel and peddles
BUT, sometimes (after work), the ride is perfect (very smooth).
I don't know if the tempertaure is related.
After work (about 0230pm ), the weather is hotter in LA.
I do not know if this is caused from tires or others.
I took my car to dealer couple times and they said my car is normal compared to others.
Any suggestions?
Thanks
Yes, I go to work at 0550AM:
The ride is rough all the way to work about 10 miles.
When I go home 0230PM, sometimes the ride is roght and sometimes smooth.
When the ride is smooth, acceleration is better (sensitive).
When the ride is rough, acceleration is worse.
I took my car to dealer couple times, and they could not find anything wrong.
So confused and frustrated.
Any ideas?
Thanks
If it is a tire issue, how should I deal with it?
Can I use warranty to replace it or do anything else?
Thanks
If it is really bad and shocks or something are involved that is beyond my expertise.
I would have someone else that knows cars drive the car first thing in the morning and get thier input if you can find someone to get up that early.
Had my front tires checked yesterday.
The balance is fine.
They put more pressure to my tire and it seems driving better.
Before: 32 PSI (Colde)
Now : 34 PSI (Code)
What are your tire (cold) pressure that runs well?
Regards,
Thank you.
The dealership is a little out of the way - would probably change myself, but don't have a place to dispose the oil.
The MPG really varies. One thing about this car is you have to stay after the tire inflation. If i am not at 32psi all the way around not only can I feel it, but I see it in the mpg.
Pure Highway driving 80-90 mph 30+mpg
Mixture 22
City 18
I use the 89 grade gas..The service manager at the dealership I bought told me that is all the car needs. Used 87 and mileage went way down. Used High octane for a month and no difference. So I stick with the 89. Can't go wrong when the man whose supposed to know everything about your car tells you to do it. They did strongly advocate not to use the 87 octane!
I remember 20 years ago when I got my first Acura that A&H Motorsport in Pennsylvania had OEM parts at great discounts but now it seems like they are out of the parts business and more into service.
I just recently got an '09 TL AWD. Looking for air filter, cabin filter, all weather floor mats, etc.
http://www.acuraoemparts.com/delray/jsp/home.jsp
I would recommend this business for "Exact Fit" floormats:
http://www.weathertech.com/
I purchased their "Digital Fit" all weather floor mats for my 08 TL for both front and rear that fit like glove. They have Gray, Tan and Black. Acura did not have Gray and I wanted Gray to more closely match the interior and I saw their AD in a auto magazine and found they had very good reviews.