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I have heard that in *very* cold weather, the screen may remain dark for a few minutes but will eventually turn on as the car heats up. Any chance of that?
Folks, let's remember this is the TL Maintenance and Repair discussion, okay?
Here's my maintenance schedule, although, I'll admit it's on the compulsive side. But if you ever wanted a used car, my car would be the one you'd want :
Fuel Induction every 15,000 miles-30,000 miles or 1 year - DEALER ONLY
Fuel Induction tx requires a special machine ONLY AT DEALER
Fuel induction uses BG 44 (stronger than CF5)
Fuel Injection tx is just a bottle of BG CF5 into gas tank every 7,500 miles
http://ezinearticles.com/?Car-Repair-Prices:-Fuel-Injection-Services,-Are-They-W- orth-It?&id=300855
BG Frigi Clean - kills mold, $40 - do Annually
bottle comes with hose and screws
injected thru AC exhaust
dealer wants $120
you can do it for $30 labor and $40 bottle with independent mechanic
make sure mechanic gives it 20 mins to dry out the foam
do the FrigiClean before you add new internal cabin air filter so that your old filter can collect the mess
Radiator Flush every 20,000-25,000 if lots of stop and go or every 2 years
- 2 bottle of coolant (antifreeze) + BG kit
Power Steering Flush - every 25,000 - 30,000 (3 bottles) or every 2 years
Transmission Flush - every 30,000 or every 2 years - DEALER ONLY
- 15 quarts + BG additive
- or 4 quarts if drain and fill only
Air Filter and Internal Cabin Filter every 12,000-15,000 miles or once/twice per year (depends on your environment and driving)
Spark plugs - every 50,000 miles for regular plugs, or every 60,000 - 100,000 with Iridium or Double Platinum (labor $200, plugs $200) - Independent Mechanic will not allow you to buy plugs and bring it to their shop b/c of liability
Car Battery - every 3-7 years, check readings at each oil change, most places would say on average 3 years is best
Alternator - every 5-7 years
Starter - every 7-10 years
Wiper Blades - annually
Timing Belt - every 100,000 miles or 7 years, may want to replace water pump when you replace the belt - best to do with Dealer for peace of mind
Brakes - every 40,000 miles, will need new ceramic brake pads from Acura
best to buy new rotors (3rd party ok) instead of resurfacing the rotors
ideally to get new rotors at each brake change but ok if you pass 40,000 and do it at 80,000 miles
Brake Flush - every 30,000 or when brakes are being done - DEALER ONLY
Suspension - dependent on driving conditions
PCV Valve - at 30,60, and 90,000, $140, helps engine to breathe
rotate tires every 6,000 miles
Here is my maintenance schedule for my 2000TL that I drove 70K over 8 years:
Change oil and filter every 3 to 5000 miles at the local Honda garage
Blow out the air filter every year with compressed air, never replace it.
Cabin filter....what is that?
Chance tranny oil....never
Change brake fluid and drain....what for?
Rotate tires every 5000 miles
Spark plugs...designed for 100K, why change them.
Brakes..I myself put on Brembo rotors and pads at 65K because we were going on a 2400 mile vacation. Pads were only half worn.
Take it to the dealer for anything....never except for tranny recall.
I sold the 2000 to my Grand Daughter and she has put an additional 15K on it and it runs like a top.
The 2008 TL is 1 1/2 years old and just turned over 10K. Only maintenance to date was oil change and filter at 7000 at the local Honda garage.
Taking it to the dealer.....probably never.
By the way, I inquired about snow tires in an earlier post. I purchased Blizzaks and new rims on TireRack.com. They are INCREDIBLE! It feels like I'm driving an all-wheel-drive car now. And the new rims look awesome; I actually like them much better than the OEM rims.
Lucky for me...it fell off when I was washing my car...so I still have the cover.
The big question for everyone here.... How the heck do I reattach the cover???? I tried to do it...but I can't seem to figure out how to properly mount it so it won't fall off.
Help!!!!!
the metal base.
I've had it since Jan 2006. The 2nd battery was on warranty and was replaced Feb 2008. My car went dead this past week. I got another battery at Costco. I hope their battery lasts longer than the two Acura batteries. The Acura's only lasted about two years each.
As a comparison I haven't had to replace my 2003 Toyota Highlander battery once yet.
Does anyone know if there is a weakness in the Acura batteries or the elctrical system which drains them faster?
I don't believe I can 'superglue' it as the surface area of the cover edges are pretty little.
Darn....hate to think I have to bring it to the dealer and have them charge me big dollars for such a little thing.
Anyone else here have the same experience?
This is a very typical problem - particularly in dealerships that have cheap carwash infrastructure.
Unfortunately, it can not be re-attached - the assembly will have to be replaced. Most dealerships do not stock it.
It happened 3 times to our 2004 TL - each time the complete assembly was replaced free since the car was still under warranty. Now if I take my car in for a service, I inspect these BEFORE making the payment.
Suggestion: make a lot of noise at the dealership - they may provide a free replacement.
1) turn ignition switch to "On" (I tried this w/the car OFF and w/the car ON)
2) press the button repeatedly until the oil life is displayed
3) press and hold the Select/Reset button for 10 seconds. The multi-information display will ask for a confirmation. Press Select/Reset button to select "Ok".
- Here's where I'm having the problem. When I hold the Select/Reset button in for 10 seconds it simply reverts right back to the "Service Reminder: B2" yellow message" - I don't have the option of hitting the Select/Reset button again to reset the message.
Any idea how I reset this service reminder? I recall the manual instructions worked in the past, not sure why they aren't working now. Thanks.
I agree that wandering in middle of nowhere and waiting for lousy Acura roadside service or AAA is no fun at all. The battery design has flaws. But I think that's the only stall experience I have with Acura vs. 3 times of my long-gone MB, even though it never has any battery issue.
I always start with the ignition off. Then turn it on to the second on position (when all instruments light up and before the starter engagement position). Select the screen with the oil life and then just hold the reset down for a good 20 seconds, release and hold it down 1 or 2 more times for 20 seconds each. Eventually it resets the oil life. I don't worry what the screen shows in between, I just keep it held down 2 or 3 times and it resets.
Originally, it seemed to reset quicker but now it takes several attempts.
Good luck
In that event you may still need to repeatedly hold down the reset button starting with the screen on which the oil life showing. A different screen may pop up but there is no need to go back to the original oil life screen like you tried to do. I just let off then push and hold again and it resets.
Also, do i need these flushes that they recommend?
I probably could do the battery myself.
The cabin air filter you should DIY. Takes about 2 minutes, and most of that is taking your junk out of the glove box! Engine air filter isn't too bad, but can be a little bit of a hassle and requires some tools.
The battery? Go to Walmart, and get a better one for about $75 installed.
Tranny flush, I had the dealer do. Mostly to make sure it got the correct fluid, but also (given the tranny issues honda has been having) to give me more leverage if I later have to fight for a good will repair!
So, that leaves brakes. I had my Accord done at a Tires plus store. Did a fine job. I also had them flush the brake fluid. I think the rear brakes were about $225, and the fluid flush another $65 or so? Honda does spec out the brake flush, and it is a good idea to do it.
SO, if you have a shop you are comfortable with, you can probably save a coupole hunder $$ on the full brake job, and as a bonus, you can pick different pads 9since the Honda ones aren't the greatest).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Battery at 6 years, never a brake flush, never a cabin filter, never a new air filter (I blew out the old one every year with compressed air, replaced the front rotors and all pads myself with Brembo parts for about $250 I believe, rotated tires every 5000 miles and replaced them prior to a long vacation trip at 65K, and that ol' 2000 TL is still running great with 95K on it now. At first I always took out the book when I went to Honda and showed the service manager what needed done and he would always say, "We don't do that, no, not needed, etc".
Sounds like you are being reamed. I seriously question the pad measurement since the front and back rarely wear at the same rate. Shop around. Your mileage may vary.
As to Vator's point, not many people are willing (or ale) to do brake jobs on their own (and if you gotta ask how to change an air filter, likely not one of them!).
But, it is always a fine idea to get a 2nd opinion and estimate, and any tire/brake place will give a free one if you don't trust the dealer.
It is also more common to just change the air filter every couple years. They don't cost much, but if you are happy with the air trick, NP.
The brake fluid? Probably many people don't bother, but it is specifically recommended by Honda, and pretty cheap insurance, to make sure your brakes work like they are supposed to, and you don't end up with contamination problems (and a master cylinder for a car with ABS is mucho expensive).
tranny fluid change, I don't remember when they call for it, but on an '05, should be due, and again, cheap insurance to avoid problems with a very expensive part!
Prices actually seem normal for a dealer, and everything called for makes sense, so I really don't think they are tyring to "ream" the OP
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
- Battery: buy a premium one at Sam's or Cosco for 1/2 or 2/3 the cost and install it yourself - piece of cake
- Cabin/engine filters: I've yet to replace the cabin filter on my '05 TL w/56k miles. Maybe I should. But as my Father-in-law always reminds me, "you'll eat a barrel full of dirt before you die".
- Front and rear brakes: are they just talking pads? My Dad replaced my pads and rotors - front and back - and the total cost was something like $200. Everyone tells me how easy it is to replace brakes but, after watching him do it, I wouldn't tackle it on my own. The emergency brake part of it was a little tricky in my opinion (didn't seem to rattle my Dad, but it took him a little time to get it right). Regardless, I'd take it to a tire/brake shop and have them give you a quote.
- Tranny flush: I had mine flushed at an oil change shop
- Brake fluid flush: I haven't had mine done yet, but will get it done at an oil change shop when necessary.
The one thing I've learned with Acura service...shop around!
Just be sure that it is an EXACT size match and without battery caps protruding from the top, otherwise your battery cover will not fit back on properly. Also the negative battery cable is VERY short and the positive virtually immovable, so any physical size difference will present a problem. The COSTCO battery had protruding caps so it was a no-go for that one.
I purchased a new battery at Costco (size D) that was matched for my car. I put it in yesterday and ever since, my maintenance light comes on whenever the car auto switches gear then goes off again after it's done switching. The speedometer always goes to zero when switching gears but quickly goes back up to where it was originally. Any idea what's going on or suggestions to fix it?
Thanks
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I assume you cleaned both the battery and the battery cable terminals with a wire brush before installing?
Also, I'd check the ground cable attach point to the engine and furrther check that you did not dislodge a smaller wire under the hood when working to get the new battery in and the old one out.
The clutch (Like most TL's on E-bay I have been watching) was replaced at 70K under warranty. he selling as he want something with more power since the car is having too many miles. Highway miles on a used car never bothered me.
Is there anything I need to look for when examining this car beside all his service records? Is there any reason to stay away from 2004-2006 TL's?
Do they have any annoying " VW check engine light" type problems or unsolved electrical/mechanical issues?
Never had a car with Nav and wish this car didn't have it either. Any reliability problems with Nav?
Can you replace the rear spark plugs w/o removing the intake manifold?
Thanks,
Joe
end up with broken glove box on your first try.
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
Oh yeah....How is the road noise? I want a higher end car because I don't want to feel and hear every bump in the road anymore. I drive a pointiac now....they are great reliable cars but the road noise is there all day from day one!
I have a 2007 TL. What is the TSA button for? This is located to the the lower left of my dash. I remember asking the Acura sales guy about it and he didn't have a clue. I accidently pressed it the other day while driving and the hazard symbol appeared on my dashboard.
Thank you in advance!
The Owner's manual recommends it be left on. If you haven't read the owner's manual I think you will find it it very informative in that it will alert you to some features of your car that you may not know you have (such as backup mirror tilt-down, tap-on interior lights, key-fob all windows down selection etc).
I just purchased a 2005 TL to replace a disastrous Nissan Murano SE and I have to say I am driving a fabulous machine.
I usually don't buy new cars because of the miles I have to drive. I looked at a lot of cars before I bought a 6 spd. manual TL in great shape. This car drives like it just came off the lot. It had 100k miles so I had to replace the timing belt ($850) but I bought the car for only $11K. It always ran on synthetic so the engine is solid.
The market is flush with a lot of good TL's coming off of leases from '05 - '08. There are some great deals here.
The TL is a luxury sports sedan so expect to pay up for service and parts. E.g. - I know brakes are expensive (~$200). I would always recommend synthetic oil; this engine revs high and it will last 300k miles if you keep synthetic in it.
Tune ups are very high at Acura dealers; however, I took mine to a Honda dealer who will do the work for about 25% less. The Accord V6 uses a similar engine.
Tires will run around $650 for a set.
You can save on some things by going to Autozone and doing the work yourself (there is no magic to replacing spark plugs) or go to a reputable smaller shop (like: Midas; etc.). I've only had the car a month so I am still learning about it.
I think you will be happy with this car. I drove a Murano for five years and now feel like I've been reborn.
Never another Nissan for me!
Has anyone had issues with windshield chips from flying pebbles, etc.?
I never noticed this much with my last Acura but my 2007 TL seems to have suffered from several chips on the windshield in the past three years. I'm starting to wonder if this is a more fragile windshield or simply more freeway driving.
Also, are windshild chips dangerous? Will they become worse with time?
Thanks in advance for your input!
I was p.o.'d to say the least. I have had similar problems with my 4Runner. I had a Murano that seemed to be more resistant to such encounters. I am guessing that it is mostly due to the strength of the temper in the glass and the shape of the windshield.
Rounded windshields will be stronger and more resistant to pits and chips. The inertia force (vector) of the stone will be glanced off (rounded w.s.) rather than absorb the impact. A flat windshield will absorb more if not full impact.
The TL has a flatter windshield.
I also ended up with a chip on the hood each time. I have the 3M clear coating on the hood of my 08 and I am hoping that helps absorb the energy of the stone.