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Just wanted to say 'thanks'. I've just purchased a 1996 BMW 740iL (my first BMW) and am pretty excited. She's got 86,000 miles on her and a clean bill of health from the local Florida BMW service department.
This thread has given me lots of useful information to pull from - I really appreciate it.
Dealer didn't want to cover the calipers under extended warranty, but a call to BMW NA fixed that in five minutes. My position was that if the dealer couldn't tell me what caused the problem, they could not deny coverage of a possible defect.
MS
I have an 88 735i. I was driving on the highway and the long metal chrome strip on the front of my car flew off. It's the chrome strip right below my headlights & right above the license plate frame. I don't know the name of the part & I couldn't find it on the bav auto website. The part can come off because it has little grooves on it & can be adjusted.
Do you have any suggestions as to where I can purchase the part? Think I'll have to go to the dealer? Thanks for your help!
Otherwise, get on Google and search away. I've found good stuff on Ebay, too. Now and then I'll find an old 7 series that someone is selling for "restoration" and of course nobody buys it. Then I mail the guy and ask if he wants to sell pieces off it. That has worked on a few occasions and I got good deals. But of course that takes time and is really a last ditch effort.
Sometimes it's just easier to go to the dealer, bend over and get your kick in the pants.
Thanks.
Your gas pedal of course isn't really a gas pedal, it's just a flap that signals the computer where the throttle position is. This really shouldn't affect cold start and as you say you shouldn't even need to press on the gas.
2000 740i -- the dealer might want to check the evaporative control system that is supposed to vent excessive fuel to a closed filtration cannister. Perhaps a hose is leaking there. Common problem.
The veh. is in pristine cond., So just curious on any feedback on this model.
Thanks--WNTABMR
If you are biting because the price is so low, there is a reason the price is so low. Many buyers are shy of the car. You have to have the financial means to take on a car like this, but if you do, it can be very rewarding.
And they service all of these types of veh.
i'll keep you apraised of the status.
thanks again Mr.Shiftright..
Let me add a thought. The non authorized "high end dealer" usually has IMHO the sleeziest practices in the industry. Look at where he fits in: He has to buy his cars at auction, cars that the authorized dealer doesn't want, because he doesn't get in any trades and as a result he pays more for them than the authorized dealer who "trades". Moreover, he has no knowledge of the car's history, his mechanics don't specialize enough to be thoroughly competent, and whatever parts he does put into them were bought at close to retail. Finally he is selling cars to people who are driven by status reasons. They really want to drive a Bimmer, Range Rover, or Mercedes but can't afford to pay the going price of admission. So, they cheat and pick up a used 7 Series or a used Range Rover for 15K and think they got a steal when all they got was an unending headache until they dump the car on some other status insecure person. I call it the "We Get To Get Even With Interns (and other cash poor, aspirants to the good life) Industry".
Since this is my first venture into a BMW, I'd like to know up front if there are going to be any common problems that may arise with this 2001 740. Any feedback would help.
I finally got a '95 740i, the car is in excellent condition. But the rear brake light on the driver side does not work. I changed the bulb & nothing, so I alternated sides(put the new bulb on the pass. side) and the bulb works fine, any ideas before I go to the dealer for this prob.???
Mr. shiftright I filled the tank yesterday and the fuel gauge stopped at only a quarter of a tank. It's working properly going down to zero, now the needles reading 0 and the warning light is on. Any suggestions? thanks for the help WNTABMR.. (1995 740I-107,000MLS) P.S. THE TANK IS STILL 80% FULL.
is this warm steam or a cold kind of mist? Does the windshield fog up? Do you smell anything sweet? Check your floor mats where the transmission meets the firewall, under the dash. Any moisture there, is the carpeting wet either by the gas pedal or the passenger foot well?
WNTABMR: Have your mechanic or dealer check out the sending unit in the gas tank. This is usually a pretty easy test.
WU8 -- mediasteve mentioned a few problems which I have certainly heard of before on a 7 series, but these are not things you can really prevent or guard against, so......
In response to your questions about warm or cold kind of mist (yes). This happens sometimes when I start up. The mist is cold then it changes to warm. But it does it whenever it is hot or cold. But than again it does not do it continuously all the time. As an example I might turn it on and it'll start to come out and than stop. (go figure why would it do that?)
Also I mentioned that it sometimes comes out the back vents, is this all tied into the heater core system?
The windshield does fog up. I do smell a sweet odor like anti freeze.
The floor mats and the carpet do get wet with moisture by the gas pedal and on the passengers foot well.
Are these all signs of a leaky heater core?
And if it is how much would a job like that cost or could I do it myself. I heard nitemares of how complicated it is in this type of dash to replace things.
I would appreciate it if you, could help me with some insight to this problem. I like my car, but I don't like this problem.
I don't think you should tackle it yourself unless you had step by step instructions. It's not the type of job that is very intuitive, as things interlock and often come out in a specific sequence.
Why don't you get a few quotes from say the dealer and from an independent shop that speializes in BMW and let us know what they say.
the life of 2001 740i. Did anyone hear otherwise?
thanks for your input, happy holidays
just pull the wires off the measuring device and see if the light goes out. When the plunger drops (inidicating low fluid) it makes a connection, lighting the light. So dropping plunger = a light and rising plunging = no light.
It was a cold night last nite. Suddenly no heat inside the car with the fan on and "low coolant level" sign came on but the engine temperature gage showed normal. I noticed coolant was coming out thru the radiator releif valve. I tightend the releif valve, but it still leaking. And still no warm air in the car with the fan turned on to max heat.
Please, tell me what could be the problem and what do I need to do.
Thanks
It has about 114K miles which may be a bit different from your problems but consider this.. This car stacked a lot of miles and the guy, (Biloxi lawyer) sufficed with the usual 10-30 oil off the shelf. The owners book sez use synthetic 5W-40 so I hunted it up at an oil dealer. It ran rough,so with the recommended plug change being 100K miles I guessed the plugs were never changed. Wrong, new and correct plugs were put in at about 53K miles and these were well coked. All plugged up.. shorted and the car ran rough. New plugs and presto, smooth as silk.
It is not hard for a novice to check and if necessary do the plugs and buying them from Advance Auto or something like that at $6.00 beets ( ) the hell out of BMW Bosch. Adv also had the NGK or whatever was in it before or can order in a day or so. Get a bit of advice on plugs and alum heads as they are a bit more fragil. Put a couple drops of oil on the threads...for next time and don't overtorque...
Bosch and net info tells that the wrong oil contributed (possibly) to the coking of the plugs and possibly low octane gas..Will check on the gas quality soon. To be sure, use premium till you get the problems ironed out but I think a look at the plugs would be a start. Seemed to turn off my check engine light.
228 863 8688 for non professional (no fee) conversation on the thing.
An independent garage possibly can do you some good if they have diagnostic stuff... and probably not at the BMW price. BM is tight with their tech info. Sorry on the Buck Rogers stuff as I am just getting familar with this high tech stuff.
Like I said there, the 114,000 mile vehicle was not particularly subject to 'high end' maintenance...wrong oil and possibly regular gas. Sludge in valve covers is a giveaway. Plugs had only 60K on them and were foul foul fouled. Coked. Ran quite rough. New proper 4 prong plugs made it run veeery smmmmooth. Phew!
Only have about 120miles on the proper synthetic
oil and no visable leaks or consumption but after a trip and a shutdown, on re-start it puts out a pretty impressive cloud of blue/white smoke. Wife complains. Since I have only a couple weeks fooling with the thing I have limited knowledge of the exact internal engine assembly but does this suggest worn or aged valve seals??
If so, can they be replaced without pulling the heads?? (I could live with this if it stays like this) I have yet to find things like engine specs, drawings, instructions, torque specs and such.. Where can this be obtained particularly if I eventually have to get into the thing???
If things get bad, will a Chevy engine fit?
(hea, just kidding!!!) How can I check tranny oil?
Anybody know how to eventually locate a runout but not destroyed 4.4 that can be had for a rebuilt project?
Thanks,
N
Thanks,
nick