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Comments
Of course, you aren't going through snow drifts like a jacked-up 4X4, so be realistic as to what you attempt.
Also, with 100k+ miles i would be VERY careful. Repairs on this car are very expensive.
With 4 snows, this big heavy car should be okay, but ground clearance could be a problem.
As for repair and maintenance, I presume the buyer already knows about that and is ready to deal with it.
Like i said b4 I want to get one of these cars. I have test driven the 98 740i with 105,632 miles. everything works perfectly, although the engine sounds like that of a motorcycle from the outside, bt like a V8 from the inside.
The 00 740il has 60,362 miles, bt needs engine work (oil pump is spoilt). Which do u think i should go for, mind you the 98 has a flood record.
Thanks
I think you should pass on both cars given what you've presented to us. My two cents.
So that's about $175 for the heater core.
Labor to R&R is 8.0 hours
Labor to evacuate and replace AC freon --- not sure about this.
Anyway, total cost where I live would be about $1350.
This presumes that the AC system is okay....or you can just skip fixing the AC part and just do the heater core for maybe $1200.
We assume you want the car to have at least heat/defrost?
Your call on that. My impression is that you can buy a very nice clean 735i with no major problems for about $3000--$3500.
If I were buying it, to cover my butt, I'd offer $1500 tops.
I'd say a new radiator is in my future.
This is why they crack in the first place.
Oddly, the leak has now stopped, but I'm expecting that's just temporary relief.
i'm new here and hope to get some advice. i need to have the a/c blower motor and relay replaced in my 1996 740IL. i purchased oem replacement parts. i live in boynton beach florida (palm beach county) and haven't found anyone willing to do the work.
anyone know a mechanic who is capable in my area? also what should it cost? thank you for any suggestions.
jim
Does anyone know an experienced and knowledgeable auto shop in the San Francisco Bay Area to work on a 8 series BMW? I have been having a hard time to find someone who is familiar with the 8 series and is willing to work on the car.
Truly appreciate any comments or suggestions in advance.
Speedy99
Bill Arnold BMW Repair
Many thanks again.
Also you could have a faulty idle air control valve. Surging might be caused by that. You can scan the car's computer for trouble codes to indicate this possibility.
Just throwing out blind thoughts here, without a car in front of me.
Oh yeah, you should use 91 octane, but I don't think this would cause a rough idle that clears up.
Here's one I found on eBay:
RESET TOOL
As for synthetic oil, I use Mobil 1 and I think that's fine for your application.
Mr. Luck
See you there!
First query: A very faint alarm sound (hardly noticeable, moreso when the radio is on) is barely audible when the ignition key is turned on. I'm clueless, any guess on where this is coming from?
Second query: By changing the O2 sensor at 100,000, is there a real, significant improvement in fuel consumption/performance? Car passed recent smog test.
Question is - which one is a better buy? I know this is a personal preference but the instate car warranty expires EO 2011 and the one on the car in CA expires March 2013. Is it worth pursuing the out of state car? The out of state car will run about 3-4K more - considering more taxes and higher interest rate (2006 CPO is at 3.9%)..
Looking for some recommendations here. I have seen a lot of mixed messages on 750Li long term reliability. Any pointers?
Is there such a thing as BMW warranty beyong 6yrs 100,000?
Thanks
So the warranty should be the first criteria then?
The CA cars have comparable mileage - ~30K. I do plan to keep this car long and usage is going to be limited to about 600-800 miles a month. The 2006 with 27K miles (whose warranty expires end of 2011) is driven about the same miles - ~9k/year.
The 2007 used car financing rates are at about 6.79%. Its almost as if they're charging you for stuff that will break, in advance. In comparison the 2006 is at a 3.9%.
Is there no warranty after the CPO expires? Or am I just too hopeful?
Thanks
The 2006: (Negotiated down to 43.5 @ 3.9% APR)
http://www.bmwnorthscottsdale.com/detail-2006-bmw-7_series-750li-4195607.html
The 2007: (Not negotiated yet - but listed at 44.9K @ maybe a 6.5% APR)
http://www.sterlingbmw.com/certified-inventory/vehicle-details.htm?vehicleId=1a8- 8bae04046381e0059c8b52f6d8b92&useHistory=true
You can bargain hard on a 7 series right now.
BTW - is the 750Li really as bad as some people refer to? I see sharply contrasting responses from people. It seems like some peope have had no issues, while others see frequent transmission/engine problems. I wonder why this car would have so many more issues compared to a high end 5-series with the same engine? I know electrical complexity is higher due to iDrive and in general rule of thumb is that the more complex system you develop poorer the reliability expected, since you now have more parts that could potentially fail.
I know that the 2002 745's had major issues - a friend told me that he owned it and had issues. But I also hear BMW fixed these in upcoming models.
Since you're the expert, it would be great to hear your perspective.
Thanks
What I can say with assurance is that earlier 750s have been problem-ridden and sometimes make it to the "worst used cars" lists. Part of this came from the V-12 engine, which now of course is a 760 option, not a 750 option.
How much of all the earlier issues BMW has squared away by 2007, I have no idea. The reliability ratings for the newer cars seem quite improved--but there are still issues.
People "love" them because they are GREAT cars to drive, not necessarily because they are dead-reliable or cheap to own. Also depreciation rates are higher than normal.
I have heard different numbers... When is it best to buy the maintainence plan? The car I am looking at has 18K miles left on it and about 20months of the original warranty, after which the extended warranty kicks in (valid through 2013).
I'll send out requests to multiple dealers. Is it advisable to buy this as soon as possible or should I wait until I get closer to expiration?
so you have a CPO warranty until 2013, right? (GOOD!) And I presume you'll keep the car until then....so we need to figure out (seems to me) the cost of about 4 years of maintenance with NO plan at an independent BMW shop vs. 4 years of maintenance at dealership prices.
Much as I hate to say it, you may find that not a lot of independent BMW shops are not that comfortable with a 7 series car.
I have asked for the breakup of the maintainence plan - its called "BMW Ultimate or Elite". Now I do have this maintainence plan until mid-2011 since the original warranty does not expire until then (this is a 2007 750Li). The pre-owned warranty kicks in after 2011 but the maintainence plan expires mid-2011 and will need to be bought for the period 2011 to 2013 (2013 is when the pre-owned warranty expires). Depending on how this car works out I plan to keep it - but first pass want to see how it runs through atleast the warranty period.
Now this car also happens to be a demo car - and the basic warranty is available until 55K miles (it has 33K miles on it right now). But maintainence still expires at 50K.
This is one of the two cars that this dealer had on their lot for 113 days and they lowered the prices down almost 10K to clear out their inventory. So I think I have a pretty decent deal and would hence not mind paying a little bit more for the maintainence plan from BMW. I do hear that third party options are pretty unreliable.
Now what the guy offered to be was $2999 for a 2 year maintaince plan post the 50K maintainence expiration. That covers me through 2013. Now I hear that the brakes, rotors, oil change and windshield wipers cost a fortune for the 750. They should easily exceed 2999 if they break - which I am guessing they will.
So its a no brainer. But I also hear that you can shop around for the best price. To answer your question on the specifics - the maintainece plan through BMW has no deductibles.
I have plenty of time to buy and negotiate this maintainence plan. The car is working out great btw and I believe this one was a pretty good buy - thanks to this one and another one of these being on the market for like 100 days plus, the dealer shot down the price about 8K below the first advertised price. I believe a 44K price for a 2007 750Li with pre-owned warranty until 2013 - is a pretty decent deal.