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Comments
You can tell by looking at the wheels of any vehicle if the hub or the lugs are supporting the vehicle. The center of the hub usually sticks out from the break drum or rotor hub. This protrusion goes through the center of the wheel. The back side of the wheel is sort of rolled in a curve into the hole for the hub. The hub is curved in a complimentary manner to accept the hub. The lug nut and bolt pull the wheel into the hub and forces the wheel to center on the hub. Neither the lugs nor the holes in the wheel need to be in perfect alignment for the wheel to be perfectly centered. However if the hole in the wheel is too large for the hub, centering of the wheel is anybody's guess.
I haven't been able to look at a Tundra that closely to tell. Perhaps you owners could look and determine if Toyota really is depending on the lug system for centering the wheel.
Good luch guys,
Rich
I don't understand the physics of what you're describing. I don't understand why there would be a rotational balance problem by merely allowing the drive shaft to position itself naturally on the splines. If that were the case, wouldn't all front engine / rear wheel drive vehicles have the same problem?
Rich
The vibration get worse when you tow a fishing boat.
I find it very difficult to believe their statement. If they are truely not aware of a vibration issue, then they should be fired. I am guessing that they are not acknowledging the problem because of the potential monetary liability they may incur for repairs if they did admit there was a problem. I bet that the cost accountants and lawyers figure the cost of repair would be higher than lost sales. I don't pretend to know the answer to that one. But I do know I am not going to buy what I believe to be an otherwise excellent truck, with a potential built- in problem. For me, I would be down to the showroom tomorrow if Toyota would just fess-up to the issue and tell everyone what is being done to deal with thie issue.
But given their apparent lack of candor about the problem, I see a Ford F-150 in my future.
I am a Toyota owner ( 1990 4 Runner, 115,000 miles) who likes everything about the Tundra, except for this vibration problem. I refuse to roll the dice and spend $28K for a truck that may have some sort of fundamental flaw. My point is that Toyota is being short-sighted by not coming out and acknowledging the problem, and saying what they believe the fix is. If they did, then potential buyers like me would be more receptive to further considering the Tundra. But I can't wait forever, and I am frustrated by this tact that Toyota is taking of just saying no problem exists. So, I will probably go to my second choice in a truck, the F-150.
Toyota is doing their best to keep this under raps but they know about it. The mechanics said that a "tech report" or something like that was supposed to be issued by Toyota that would tell the mechanics how to fix it. This was a few months ago, not sure if it was ever put out. I'll put my buying plans on hold.
Got stuck with a lemon of a Ford one time - it's not going to happen with this vehicle. BTW this is my third Toyota and bought the Tundra because of the legendary Toyota quality...
What are the possible long term issues with this? Quicker and troublesome tire wear for sure, the big tires don't come cheap. Is there metal fatigue taking place over a few years worth of service that could cause a possible break without warning?
I'm going through arbitration over this issue right now. Thats how much of a problem this is to me. If this were a normal function of the Tundra, all of them would do it, not just 2 or 3 percent. read: 2,000 to 3,000 trucks.
Wish me luck.
We are looking for a full-size,, extended cab pick up, but we don't want to get a vehicle with a built-in problem, either. However, we have found the F-150's to be a little un-exciting. We like the ergonomic interior, but even the larger V8's sound like they are herniating themselves when put to the task of merging onto a freeway or going up a minor incline.
So, I was curious as to what about the F-150 made it attractive to you.
RJ
To make a VERY LONG story short, I visited THREE dealerships in OKC and I finally found one (Not the dealer from whom I purchased the Tundra from) dealership who REALLY wanted to help me!
As I sat in the service managers office for over an hour AND listened to him talk to a regional manager about the vibration problem, he privately handed me a MEMO from Toyota concerning the center console vibration AND the steering wheel vibration problems! They are called TSN's!
Toyota KNOWS about the problem but it will cost them more to fix it than not to fix it! TRUST ME!!! They know of the vibration problem! They also know of SEVERAL other problems!!!
Luckily my vibration problems were solved at my own expense! My truck rides like a dream! Hopefully, reliability will get better with the Tundra!
I have a list of problems that I've had with my truck! It SUCKS!!!
Good luck to all!!!
Todd~~~
Can you e-mail me with your solution to the steering wheel vibration, if you had this and it was fixed? If I loose in arbitration, I would like to see about fixing my problem, even if it's at my own expense. Then, I'll turn around and submit my reciept to Toyota for reimbursment. Thanks.
What's everyone running? The Dunlop web site said run what the OEM specifies. I'm sure they'de be happy to sell me a new set 20,000 miles down the road. Is there a good all around tire pressure which is best for gas mileage and wear?
That means you inflate them to higher psi when carrying load, and deflate them to lower psi when riding around empty.
The only way to be sure of this, in the long run, is to periodically check your tread wear. Too much wear towards the center means too much pressure. Too little pressure causes wear along the outside edges of your tire.
Riding around empty, I run about 30 psi. After 23,300 miles, I'm still showing a bit too much wear in the center, so I may drop down to 28 or 29.
Dunlops yet, but if you were to guess, what kind of mileage might one expect running the Tundra empty and mostly around town? My wife drives it and loves the view and visibility. Unfortunately, she is something of a lead foot, and has already spun the tires twice. It would sure be great to get say 30,000 or maybe 35,000 miles on this set of tires.
Selecting the right tire pressure involves a little give and take. Softer ride = lower pressure, Bigger load = higher pressure, Better MPG = higher pressure, Better tire wear = somewhere in the middle.
Hey! It worked for me once (but not on a Toyota).
Does your brake pedal pulsate when stopping?
Thanks for your input, I believe Tundra owner will mark their tires to see if they slip .
Michelins are also my first choice .
The salesman had lied to you. I followed the manual instructions about tire pressure.
But it didn't help. Lower pressure will mask some vibration, but increase gas consumption . I have the original Dunlops that Toyota installed . It is a great Truck , if you want to buy, set Cruise at 58-60mph and let it run for a couple of miles, your hands off the steering wheel and see if it vibrates (flutter). It is your 30K. I don't want you stuck with the Truck that you will love and HATE.
Just a story...
I took a nearly brand new car on a long trip. A car that had perfect brakes at the beginning. After 800 highway miles of very little brake use, to my utter astonishment upon applying them, my pedal pulsated, and the steering wheel shimmied. And it did this forever after, until I had the rotors turned. Apparently, there was just enough light friction from the pads, or parasitic drag to overheat and warp them from highway use. I mention this because it sounds consistent with your observation of heat and mileage.
It also seems like all else has been tried, rims, tires etc. Those items should not be that critical, usually. But rotors, hubs, spindle, or bearings, seems like it's in there....
I drove a Tundra about 40 miles at highway speeds in Utah. I did not notice any vibration or steering wheel shimmys, or brake pedal pulsations. Believe me, I was aware of some reports, and scrutinized...but only noted normal good behavior.
http://members.aol.com/sturbridg1/utahtrek.html
Still, I'd be hesitant to tell you to turn those rotors on a lathe, since removing metal reduces life, and is a wasted expenditure if it doesn't work.
I note the logic of your observations. If the same guy who tells you it's rotors made your problem with balance worse, how reliable is he? My advice is to try pursuing this more, if possible through your dealer. Suggest to him, hubs, bearings, spindles. Or turning the rotors on a lathe. It is something they have not tried, and could be key.
By the way, rotors also get warped by over-torquing the lug nuts, as with an air impact wrench.
Actually, my only complaint is the body colored paint under the rear wheel wells, which I promptly covered with flat black the day I drove it home ...
Good luck to those of you who have not been so blessed with a perfect truck!
Another potential issue: Does everyone with vibrations have ABS? Just wondering if this might have had some affect on the brakes. I don't have ABS and like I said before don't have any vibrations or flutters either.
Let's try to determine if different options or configurations may be the problem.
List options and basic truck specs.
mine is
2WD SR5 Access Cab
V-8 automatic
5 spoke Alloys with narrow 245 size tires
Front grill guard
60-40 seats (that shake)
No ABS brakes