Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Troy
Only a couple issues with Ford Modular engines. First is the thickness of the aluminum cylinder head. Spark plugs are only held on with 4-5 threads. There have been a low percentage of vehicles where the plug gets blown outta the block. Dealers repair it by replacing the top of the engine $$$. You can also fix it with heli-coil. Personally I think this problem may be the result of limited/poor maintenance. Plug may have loosened up, but no one ever checked it, it eventually loosens to the point where it get blown out of the block - damaging the head. Wouldn't hurt to pull the spark plugs every year or so, check them, put some anti-seize on the threads and then torque them to proper spec. It's just a pain (knuckle buster) to get to a couple of the plugs at the back of th engine.
Other somewhat common problem with V10 is Idle Air Control Valve (IAC). They tend to go after 3-4 years. Symptom - truck stalls at traffic light or when idling. Only way to keep it going is to keep your foot on the gas. Eventually, it gets to point where you can't keep the truck running. It's like about a $150-$200 repair.
Ball joints are also a little less robust than they could be on a "super duty" truck. Ford cheaped out a bit, and didn't put on ball joints with grease fittings. So the original ones tend to wear out a little faster than I'd like.
Aside from that, a Ford Super Duty with a V10 is great truck. Absolutely no regrets, and I will be keeping mine until it literally falls apart. Plenty of power to carry a load or pull a trailer. The V10 make my truck a blast to drive when it's empty. I surprise a lot of folks with how fast my Crew Cab, Long Bed 4x4 can take off from a light. I just don't do it that often when gas goes above $3/gallon.
Ford does not cover under warranty any damage caused by a modification.
Mark.
I did by the truck drove it for the first distance trip (about 75 miles round trip) I love how it handles on the interstate, little harder keeping it between the lines in the city. I live in Montana and we usually get quite a bit of snow-this year has been different. Im glad to hear they handle well on the ice. My SUV seemed to slide around a good amount of the time. What IS the average MPG?
Is the IAC something easy to replace on ones own, or does it need to be done by the manufacturer- we dont really care for our ford dealer/technician.
I found out how easily this thing can take off from a stop light. I previously owned a suburban that needed a good romp on the gas to get through some of the quick lights around here, I was unfortunately used to this and did the same with the truck this morning (this was the first time I REALY drove it) and spun the tires, throwing gravel up on the car behind me.
Recommend buying the Helm shop manual:
http://www.helminc.com/helm/product2.asp?class%5F2=FCT&mk=Ford+%26+Lincoln+Mercu- ry&yr=2003&md=F%2D250+Pickup&dt=Shop%2FService+Information&module=&from=result&S- tyle=&Sku=FCS1210703&itemtype=N&mscsid=SDDBHQW5PDDW8PU2JN7VP6GW1TB6EA67
They're expensive but well worth it.
$1400 for ac, $1700 for a rebuilt tranny, $2200 for a reconditioned engine and the exhaust is a yearly thing.The 2 small pipes going to the cat.convertor last less than a year-any suggestions on that ??
Now both gas tanks are leaking- I got a quote of over $200.oo for each tank, plus labor and straps, ect- Also the oil pressure just dropped to the lowest bar of "Normal" and sits there. I changed the oil and filter today and nothing changed- next is the pressure sensor, after that ???
OK- where can I buy gas tanks for this beast?
what are the sizes or part numbers?
1993 4x4 ac, pS, 5.8L automatic, 122,995 miles rear tank and saddle tank
I get 8 MPG and that does not change if I have it in 4 wheel drive snow plowing, or driving down the summer highway, or with my 3/4 ton camper on it- the rear end seems geared real low...
any answers and / or suggestions would help?
p10leadman@yahoo.com
:sick:
Oil level was a little low and kinda dirty (but not milky), and the truck had sat idle for 3 months so I thought little of the few droplets of water I saw beaded on the oil dipstick. Driving the 30 miles home I noticed the temp gauge needle was acting intermittently erratic, but I chalked it up to a loose connection on the temp sensor.
I got a can of K&W Block Sealer as well as a can of flushing solution and I've been in the process of drain-refill-run-drain-refill-run, etc. <--this has been time-consuming because I KNOW the cooling system capacity is 12 qts but I've only been able to drain about 8 qts per drain operation. The K&W product has VERY specific instructions, including the demand that the flushing should continue "until the coolant is CLEAN and CLEAR". In browsing under the hood today I spotted a nice Craftsman screwdriver lurking under some hoses near the firewall on the passenger side. I manipulated it from its hiding place only to discover that it was being used to plug a vacuum line!! Where's it go? The routing direction and length of the hose led me to a point between the heater blower motor and the firewall very near to the inside edge of the fender. There I saw what appears to be a plastic fitting that had broken off nearly flush to the housing it's mounted to. I'm guessing an elbow got broken off. The device the broken remnant is attached to is a diaphram-type device with linkage attached to a short swing-arm. <--I'm GUESSING this arrangement might be to select either fresh air or recirculate cab air or somesuch.
Here's a link to a photo: <a href="http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/8048/vachose01ck3.jpg" target=_blank>link title
I'd like to (a) know what that apparently broken device is & does, and (b) whether it's going to take major surgery to replace (or is an epoxy jury-rig an option) and, (c) where I can lay my mits on a comprehensive vacuum line diagram - preferably online and free. <--Fixed income blues.
For extra point, anybody know how to go about COMPLETELY draining the coolant without removing hoses, etc?
Thanks
The gas milage issue is correct the rear axle ratio is the key- and yes, there is a wonderful ford idea- make the tag out of alumimum, and that way it'll friggin ROT off in a few years- Yet most tranny specialist will be able to figure it out. Mine is geared so low I bet I could pull a Destroyer, and still get my standard 8MPG. And YES- it takes a good football field to turn the sucker around, and It is not a crew cab or super cab- those I think take a airport runway to turn around. Yet, I love this truck !
Had another problem with my crew cab F350 was new :confuse: - the cab mounting bolts weren't torqued properly. Kept getting clunking noises on braking, turns, etc. Made me nuts trying to find it, but dealer recognized it right away and had it fixed in about 90 minutes.
I have same truck with a long bed, but I've got a V10 in it. I pull a camper that's 8700 lbs, and occaisionally tow a skid steer that's well over 10K lbs. The V10 can handle them both fine, but on big hills the motor is running at high revs. Plus my gas mileage is abysmal when I tow - 7-9 mpg. I get 10-11 mpg in the city, and 12-14 on the highway, but it really depends on how hard and fast I drive. Your mileage with the 5.4 isn't going to be all that much higher than mine because the 5.4 is going to have to work a little bit harder. It's not my daily driver - but when empty, the V10 is a real blast to drive. THe long bed holds 39 gallons of fuel so fill ups were rather painful when gas went over $3/gal.
I seem to get about 10mpg no matter what Im doing in the truck; hauling, town or interstate. Next trip will be fully loaded going to Tahoe in the summer time
kcram - Pickups Host
The neighbors cat leaving in a hurry maybe?? :sick:
Troy
I get:
11-13 city
15-16 highway
9-10 pulling about 3K (boat or atv's)
7-8 pulling 10K camper (70 to 75 mph AC on)
Get the V10 are you'll be let down, especially after owning a diesel.