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Ford F-250 Owners



  • rscott6rscott6 Posts: 20
    FYI, we just came back from a trip to Az. round trip 500 miles...CC set at 72 mph.
    21 MPG...use to be 18-19 mpg..there's 15,450 on the OD. '04 F250 w/6.0 & Auto.
    Trans., 2WD Crewcab Shortbed...How Sweet It Is.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    You probably have the "quick connect" fittings. There is a small circular spring holding the connection together. You have to expand that spring in order to pull the hose off. You mentioned your remote location, so I'm assuming an AutoZone or O'Reilly's is out of the question???? If you can get to a parts store, then you need to buy a tool for this. I don't know the name of the tool, but I do know it's some sort of a "quick connection" removal tool. The auto parts clerk should be able to help you. If you can't get to a parts store, then you can make the tool like this. Using the cap off a plastic quart oil can, cut the top out of it. Then cut it so that you can lay it out flat. You need to determine how long it needs to be by measuring the circumference of the connection. Cut the cap to an appropriate length so that you can roll the plastic cap into the same diameter as the quick connect. Push the cap into the gap, where you can see the spring. This should lift the spring off the collar of the male end, allowing the hose to slip right off.
  • Thanks for the info, I'm still weighing the pros and cons of installing the Banks system, and really appreciate the imput.
  • I have exactly the same color on my truck. It does change color with the amount of sun or cloud that you have. I love the color and every where I go people comment on how much they like it and how good the truck looks. Forget the brown idea it is not brown, if anything it has more green and gold in it. Keep it clean, shinny, and add a chrome grille guard and you have the best looking Ford around
  • usmc03usmc03 Posts: 8
    Thanks, the color has definitely grown on me.
  • bigbass8bigbass8 Posts: 2
    I own a 99 F250, 5.4 Super Duty. Started today, but has happen about 1 1/2 - 2 yrs ago. Once i start my truck and put it in gear, i drive off. Problem is with the shifting between 2 - 3 gear. Check engine light came on after about 20 miles. Last time i took it to the Ford Dealership and a mutual friend replaced either a sensor ? not sure.... trying to get in touch with him today. I recall he dropped under the back end of the truck and less then 5 minutes he replaced the part. Could someone help me with the actual part that was replaced and how to replace it?
    Also, seems odd that my way home i stopped off at the mall to pick up my son and the freaking horn goes off..... after what seemed like 10 minutes (2-3) it goes off.... then again it goes off.... so i'm thinking maybe it's a signal from the transmission, but even after i park it in the drive way and why goggling it goes, for now i have removed the fuse to the horn....Thanks, rd
  • bigbass8bigbass8 Posts: 2
    I resolved my issues...Thanks, anyways...horn issue was the horn relay switch...
    transmission issue was the speed sensor, auto zone evaluated through the check engine light...Thanks,
  • usmc03usmc03 Posts: 8
    Hey, I was wondering how 35 inch tires will affect my truck. It's a 2005 F-250, 4x4, crew cab, 6.0 PSD, auto, 3.73 rear. I understand that taller tires affect the gear ratio. Will I have to do anything to my gears? What negative effects will it have? Will chipping it offset any negative effects or will it add to the strain? Also, I want to put a leveling kit on it...nothing bigger than 2 or 3 inch. Some friend says all I need is a spacer on top of the coil spring. Is that it? The offroad shops around here have leveling kits ranging from 500--1400 dollars! Just for 2 or 3 inches?! What's the best way to level my truck without screwing it up? Sorry...lots of questions but anything in return will help I'm sure. Thanks.
  • newatthisnewatthis Posts: 2
    Hi everyone,

    I'm all over this site looking for help. My husband has a 1995 Ford f 250 powerstroke diesel, 4x4, automatic, 85,000 miles. On his way to Alaska loaded with building materials and a four horse trailer loaded. Just called outside of Redding, CA to say that the oil pressure is going down. Any help or advice is desperately needed. anyone know anything about this or ever had this problem? Isn't 85,000 miles not enough to have engine problems?


  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    There's a reason those lift kits are expensive, there's a lot of little things that get affected when you raise the height of a vehicle. The angle of the drive train changes, you have to make sure the driveshaft still lines up with the rear end properly. The steering changes - some of the old parts are now too short for your steering to work properly. The shock absorbers are now too short, etc.. etc., etc. It all should be modified correctly so you don't screw up a brand new truck and possibly run into some warranty issues if something breaks as a result of your mods. Also, and more important, if you don't lift the truck properly, you could run into a whole raft of driveability and safety issues that could really ruin your day.
    If you switch to 35" tires, you're going to reduce the effective gear ratio way down, and your truck will be guttless wonder with no power. Chipping the engine will help a bit, but the whole engine management system is set up to work with the stock sized tires - the tranny shift points, etc will not be optimal for your new tires. The computer would have to be re-flashed to tell it what sized tires are on it, but it will only help a little bit. The most effective way to restore the power is to change the gear ratio. With tires that tall, you'd probably have to go from the 3.73 rear end, up to like a 4.80:1 ratio. It's not a cheap modification, but it would help the most.
    Don't know where you're from, but there are some Ford dealers that actually do lifts on the trucks they sell - I've heard they even let you roll the costs into the financing..
  • allenb4allenb4 Posts: 3
    I own a 2001 with approx. 90,000 miles on it,all of a sudden the truck will not stay running,it is as though the key has been turned off while driving at any speed.The truck now has left me stranded,after finding a ride home I returned about 10 hours later and the truck started and sounded normal, I then made the 2 mile trek back home where the truck killed 1/2 block from the house and would not start back up again,we pushed.After about 1 hour the truck started up with no problems then after 10 min killed and would not start back up.I did this about four more times over the next 24 hours with the same results a truck that dies after about 5-10 minutes.The parts store will check the codes for me but says the check engine light must be on to get any codes,and as you would no it the service engine soon light is not on, my luck.As to the repairs the truck has recieved, the tranny was repaired at 55,000 along with the turbo charger,the gasket for the water seperator was leaking at 75,000 the filter and gasket were replaced this is also drained at every oil change, the water pump went out at 87,000 coolant and FW-16 additive was put back in the system,the oil is changed every 3-5000 miles filter FL-1995 shell rotella is my choice of oils. ANY HELP STUCK IN THE DRIVEWAY ,Allen
  • chadwick44chadwick44 Posts: 1
    It sounds like the camshaft sensor, mine sat at the repair shop for 2 days while they tried to get it to fail (has to fail so they can read the code). It cost about three hundred bucks to repair but runs great now. I hope this helps.
  • allenb4allenb4 Posts: 3
    Did you have a hard start in the mornings or did the truck stall while running was dampness an issue at all,and what happens to the codes after the truck fails, I am stuck between the cam or crank sensor thanks for the reply Allen
  • masethmaseth Posts: 1
    tranny is not slipping it is lock out a trany service should take care of it
  • paintmanpaintman Posts: 23
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Most likely it's the Camshaft Position Sensor. If you have an International Truck dealership close by, you can get the part there. The engine is a "T444E" and the sensor is only $80, or around that. That same part at the Ford garage will set you back much more. This is a 30 minute repair. The sensor is located on the front of the engine, to the left of the water pump. It's a tight fit trying to get to it, but not a difficult repair to do.
  • I have a question about what would serve my purpose better as far as power, throttle response, fuel mileage, reliabilty, etc. A v10 or a PSD. I am wanting to get a crewcab 4x4 long bed and lift it about 16-18 inches with 42" or bigger tires. Every now and then I will be pulling a 5-7 thousand pound trailer out of state to a few car shows, but mainly just during the summer. It will be used as a daily driver also. any help would be appreciated. I am looking at a 1999-2003 f250 with a v10 or a 99-2003 f250 with a powerstroke diesel. any info will be greatly appreciated. thanks
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Wow!!! That will be one heck of a truck! Considering the amount of money you're going to spend on the lift, tires, gears, brakes, etc.... I'd suggest going ahead and buying the Powerstroke. You're going to need the extra torque of the diesel to turn those big tires, even with gears, especially when towing. The diesel will give you the option of adding more power through chips/tuners whereas the gasser won't do that. You may get 30 hp out of the gasser, while the diesel can get over 150 hp, just from a chip! Also, you can add propane injection for even more power. Infact, 750 hp and 1,000 ftlbs of torque is not out of the question with the Powerstroke.

    Personally, if it were me doing this truck, I'd get the diesel and run twin 4" stacks up through the bed. :D
  • fjweldingfjwelding Posts: 5
    I have a Ford 250 7.3 diesel. The truck refuse to start in the morning. After leave the key on for 5 to 10 minutes sometimes it start some other take more. Also it have a rare sound(like a relay stuck) close to the gas pedal when you crank the engine. I noted that if the sound is present the truck will not start. Once you can't heard the noise when cranking I know the engine will start.
    This situation is very inconsistent because some times take long to start the truck but others engine star at the first cranking.
    Any suggestions.
  • You can raise the front to level it with a simple kit. check trucks magazine for article on doing just that in the last issue. not too hard and can be done for fairly small investment in parts and labor. Good luck
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Sounds like you glow plug relay is failiing. You actually hear the relay chattering?
  • fjweldingfjwelding Posts: 5
    Yes you can heard the relay chaterring at the same time you are cranking the engine. When the relay is chaterring the truck will not start. Once the noise dissapear the truck start with out problem.
    The situation with the relay noise started after the truck went to the shop for a transmission leak and they replace the converter.
    Where this relay is located.
  • zonamanzonaman Posts: 3
    Recently purchased a F250 SuperDuty 4x4 Crew Cab with a 6.0 Turbo Diesel. I have roughly 1000 miles on the vehicle and I'm only getting 10-11 mpg. I'm a little concerned - I've read that folks are getting 15-17 mpg in town with there Superduty's. Will the mpg get better over time as the diesel engine breaks in? I'm also hearing a whirling noise when stepping on accelerator pedal. The dealer says that it's the turbo charger. Should I be concerned?
  • zonamanzonaman Posts: 3
    What was your fuel economy like when you first purchased your truck? My 2005 F250 Crew Cab is only getting around 10-11 mpg in town and I'm driving very lightly.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    I have a V10, not a diesel, so I don't know. . What year is your truck? Maybe Jim Mullins (the resident diesel expert) will chime in here.

    You can probably find it. Open the hood and look over by the fuses and relay box, and listen for the chattering relay. When you've localized the sound, touch the realys. You'll feel the vibration.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Posts: 493
    Didn't see the post you were referring to, but I get that kind of mileage with an '01, V10, Crew Cab, long bed with an automatic,4x4, and 3.73:1 rear end. Though I tend not to baby it.

    I thought the new motors were supposed to be a little more fuel efficient?
  • fjweldingfjwelding Posts: 5
    My truck is 1999. The heard sound under the body by the gas pedal or maybe inside the truck but close to gas pedal area.
  • tl552tl552 Posts: 1
    I recently bought a used '05 F-250 with the Keyless Entry System. According to the owner's manual: "The keypad can be operated with the factory set 5-digit code; this code is located on the owner's wallet card in the glove box, is marked on the computer module, and is available from your authorized dealer."

    The wallet card is not in the glove box and the dealer wants $100.00 to read the code. Where can I find the computer module that has this code on it? Once I get the factory code, I can use the instructions in the owner's manual to program a personal entry code.

  • allenb4allenb4 Posts: 3
    I replaced the cam sensor on 6/6/05,only took about 10-15 minutes,and everything seems fine as of today 6/8/05.Bought the part on ebay 72.00 and 8.00 shipping.Thanks to every one for all the help saved me a bunch of bull with the dealerships that have no clue ,Thanks again Allen :)
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    1000 miles is not nearly enough to break in a HD diesel engine. You also have to remember you have one of the heavier Super Duty trucks (4x4 and Crew Cab) - the high mileage trucks are always the 2 wheel drive regular cab rigs. As you drive and get some miles on this thing, your mileage will improve. If you haven't already, you should load the bed or hook a small trailer to the truck and give it some work to help seat the rings. A run through the mountains if you have any will also help add engine load.

    kcram - Pickups Host
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