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Ford F-250 Owners



  • paintmanpaintman Posts: 23
    i get 19/20 mpg with my 2000 f250 diesel (manual) i have k&n filter i carry 600-2000lb payloads alot in the bed ,but have never towed
  • bonfigbonfig Posts: 14
    is there any difference in the 2 years? the jd power rating on the 01 was 7.7 on the 02 it was 9.0. whats up?
  • usmc03usmc03 Posts: 8
    Hey, thanks rscott6. I went and checked my paperwork. My truck (it is a 4x4 by the way) has california emissions even though it is registered in Delaware. Do you or anyone know if that's all california emissions is? A cat. converter? If so, what is the effect of a cat. converter on actual power, mpg, etc? Just curious to see if it would be worth taking off. Thanks.
  • paintmanpaintman Posts: 23
    my 2000 f250 diesel , when driving occasionally the steering wheel jerks hard to the right or when after i turn i fight the wheel to go straight again then sometimes all is fine, is this an indication of the power steering going bad?
  • rscott6rscott6 Posts: 20
    I think the Cat Converter is it...but you never's a sut collector. Bush wants
    to add the "Clean Diesel" to the catagory of those electric cars which could be a
    good thing if we get a tax break of some kind..if that's the case they will be looking
    at those trucks and checking for the cat. converter....I'm going to add a 4" exhaust
    and flow through muffler to help it breathe better..the cat will be left on and I know
    that doesn't help matters.
  • markr1markr1 Posts: 1
    please help recently my 7.3 has been maybe a backfire or a miss at different times once just cruising @65 once acclerating up a hill at 55 and once accelerating flat interstate at 65-70 this is my first diesel just had it dealer serviced at 60,000 now i'm at 67,000 also last long road trip the engine stalled slowing down going into a toll booth but it started right back up no problem since.. thanks for the help
  • fredmaticfredmatic Posts: 1
    I was living in Vermont and had this problem for a while....It turned out to be a bad glowplug solenoid. This is a $90 part from Ford. It sits on the top of the 7.3L engine right behind the alternator. Since I changed this mine starts pretty easily even to below zero..... (and no block heater).

    If you can use a wrench, change it yourself.... Ford ripped me off for $125 in labor charges for less than 20 minutes of work. I didn't know where the solenoid was located......
  • We bought our '99 F-250 SuperDuty, diesel (I'm pretty sure it's 7.3), Crewcab, Auto trans, anti-lock brakes, Lariat Edition (all the bells and whistles) when it
    was 2 yrs old...2001. It had 40K on it, but was in excellent shape. We added
    lighted stepsides to it so I could get my short, fat fanny up INTO it. Got ripped
    off by the dealer, whose salesman had assured us it was ready to tow the
    5th wheel we were also preparing to buy. Turns out, the towing pkg on it was
    for the purpose of hauling FARM EQUIPMENT.... and of course, the salesman
    denied having told us it was ready to pull a 5th wheel, so we ended up spending
    another $1300 for a towing package. aaarrrggghhh....

    Which leads me to the current problem..... finding an HONEST, ETHICAL
    repair shop in order to have the truck inspected and diagnosed. Last week,
    hubby was driving it when he smelled a strong odor of burnt diesel inside the
    cab... popped the hood, and found diesel fuel all over the engine. He took it
    to the NEAREST Ford dealership (not knowing what I know, having lived here
    forever.... that this dealership & its service dept have about the WORST rep
    in Western WA!).... where he asked them to inspect THAT problem, diagnose,
    and get back to him. Monday, they presented us with a ''diagnosis'' and an
    ''estimate'' of nearly $3000.... a little more than 1/10 of it related to the problem
    for which hubby TOOK it to them.

    The problem with the diesel spill was due to Jiffy Lube having either put the
    wrong cap back in OR having put NO cap in when they did a lube job 2 weeks
    prior. (They DID ultimately put that in writing, so we have some recourse
    against JL) Diagnosing this, steam-cleaning the engine, and replacing the
    cap cost us $336., which we paid.

    But we told them we'd have to ''think'' about the rest of it, since NONE of it
    had to do with the problem for which we TOOK the truck to them in the first
    place: Labor

    Diagnose Fuel Leak and Repair, Steam-clean engine**................. $274.13 2.0
    Front Brake Reline.................................................................... $299.98 2.5
    Rear Brake Reline..................................................................... $305.66 2.5
    Replace Exhaust Back Pressure Sensor and Replace tube.......... $395.49 1.5
    Replace Torque Converter (''T/C iss rattling and will come
    apart causing transmission failure'')......................................$1023.77 5.5
    Reseal Intake System and clean out Air Intake System............... #368.57 3.5

    Disposal of fuel..................................................................... $ 64.00
    Tax...................................................................................... $240.36

    TOTAL.................................................................................... $2971.70

    MINUS 1st on list (what we had done).................................... $335.62
    BALANCE if we GO for this line of padooky............................ $2636.08

    This vehicle NOW has nearly 100,000 miles on it, so I know it is probably
    due for some brake work, though I can't see it taking 5 hours to replace
    FOUR brake pads.... but prior to this ''diagnosis'', the worst problem I
    thought we had was a broken cup holder. NOW I don't know WHAT to
    think, nor who to go to for an HONEST assessment of the problems, if
    any. What do you suggest? Anyone live in the Seattle area, and know
    a good mech?

  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Sorry I took so long to get back to you on this, busy work schedule and too many other activities you know. Your email is listed as private.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Sorry about all your headaches. You just have to view salesmen as a necessary evil in car buying. Just exactly what is a Farm Equipment towing package? And why did a Fifth wheel towing package cost $1,300? A complete fifth wheel hitch can be bought at an RV dealership for around $600, $750 including installation.

    The spilled diesel fuel problem: Did JL replace the fuel filter? Did they not put the fuel filter cap back on properly? They had to have put in on, otherwise the fuel system would never pressurize and gallons of diesel fuel would begin pouring onto the ground almost immediately. They wouldn't have been able to pull it out of their shop with no cap on.

    The brakes: Those can be done by any reputable brake shop. There's no difference in your's and 1/2 ton trucks, just size and weight. I'd check around.

    I don't know about the exhaust back pressure sensor. I've never heard of that one.

    The faulty torque convertors on '99 models are a known problem. I'm kinda surprised that your's has made it to 100k if it has been rattling all this time. Since it's out of warranty and it's made it this far, I'd be tempted to keep driving it until it craps out. Of course it could take your tranny out as well if it dumps a lot of debris into the fluid. There is a transmission rebuilder somewhere in Arkansas by the name of Brian's Truck Shop. He has a reputation as building an absolutely bullet proof torque convertor. In fact, he's so confident in his work, he offers a two year unlimited, unconditional, unlimited mileage, "he doesn't care what you do to it" warranty. If it breaks for any reason, he'll replace it. To find his site, go to a search engine and type in the name just like I typed it above. You should find it no problem.

    Resealing the intake system: Interesting. These Powerstrokes use a crankcase ventilation system similar to what's used on gassers. What that means is that all oil vapors created in the engine are sucked into the intake to be burned, rather than released into the atmosphere. This oil vapor will coat the interior of your intake tract with a thin film of engine oil. The major problem with this setup is that the oil film will cause your intercooler tubes to blow apart from their rubber connectors under high boost conditions. You'll know it when it happens as there is a sound similar to a distance explosion under your hood and the truck will fall flat on its face. You'll think you just blew the motor. If that happens, all you have to do is clean the rubber boots really well and reattch them to the cooler tubes. No big deal really. Unless you have this problem, I wouldn't touch it!!!

    I would forgo this dealer and find someone else. Of course, that was the point of your post in the first place. I wish I could help you on that. But maybe I gave you a little info and insight to help you make a decision. Good luck.
  • I'm buying my new truck tomorrow and a friend of mine said that the first thing I should do to really improve fuel economy and power was to have a Banks 6 Gun Power Pack installed. Will this void my factory warranty?
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Won't say it will void your warranty... rather, it can void your warranty if the Banks damages a part that would have otherwise been covered. Also keep in mind that if the Banks equipment needs to be moved to accomodate a warranty repair, you are responsible for the labor involved to do that - the warranty only covers labor involved on a factory-stock truck.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • ooweaver68ooweaver68 Posts: 6
    hey everybody this forum is pretty cool been reading a little bit of it. I was hoping that yall might be able to help me. I got a 2001 F-250 Diesel 4x4 in feb. and I am the 3rd owner of it. it has been a great truck till this morning, it didnt want to start for me. i waited for the "wait to start" light to go off then i tried to start it and it didnt do anything. I didnt have time to mess with it so i got into my other truck and left. Tried to start it again after school and it was the same thing. I think it is the batteries but not sure. if yall got any ideas please tell me thanks OOWeaver68
  • ooweaver68ooweaver68 Posts: 6
    Got new batteries didnt fix the problem and then me and my dad swapped parts with his 2000 F-350 Diesel that didnt work but we tapped on he starter a little bit adn then it started right up any ideas on where i can et a new starter for a good price. OOWeaver68
  • redneck48redneck48 Posts: 2
    i have a new 05 f-250 super duty and have about 2,000 miles on it i am due for oil at 3,000 but i am wondering what ppl would suggest for type
  • mush25mush25 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 F-250 superduty with low miles and i have began to develop a rattle in the back of the dash board near the winshield. Does anyone have any suggestions on how i should go about fixing it? Or has anyone hd the problem in their truck? Thanks alot.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    I wouldn't try to replace the starter. You mentioned driving another truck, so it's not absolutely necessary for you to drive this truck everyday? If you can do without it for a day or two, I'd suggest having the starter rebuilt. You won't find a good quality starter for one of these engines cheap. And, it could be all that is wrong with your starter is the solenoid.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Check the owners manual for the proper weight. More than likely it will suggest 15W-40 for most temp. ranges. I suggest Shell Rotella-T. It was used in mine the entire time, up untill I sold it. Mine had over 165k miles on it with zero problems. I used to work for a truck company. They sold me on Rotella-T. Their trucks would routinely over 1 million miles without a rebuild.
  • enduraleteenduralete Posts: 1
    I just bought a ford 2003 f-250 diesel 7.3 2 weekends ago. It is a 4x4 lariat fx4 w/ 37,000 miles on it clean and in very good shape. I drove it last night parked it in my driveway went out this morning and it would not even turn over. I do not know if the inside lights were left on or what>>I opened the hood and saw it had two batteries. I tried to jump it w/ my car but did not do a thing. When I try to start it the battery light comes on and the gage light. My neighbor has a 12 volt charger and I hooked it up and it is way low. Is it for sure the battery?? Do batteries go quick???Will it charge a battery enough to start it? Any suggestions on what to do?????
  • ooweaver68ooweaver68 Posts: 6
    that other truck i mentioned was my dad's f-350 but he wouldnt let be borrow it lol but my dad had tapped on the starter and then it started right up that was thursday i think, but it has started up with no problems ever since. i'll tell my dad about rebuilding a starter and see what he thinks thanks anyway OOWeaver68
  • ooweaver68ooweaver68 Posts: 6
    hey i think the same thing was happening with my truck, i got a 2001 f-250 7.3L diesel, i got 2 new batteries and still wouldnt start my dad tapped on the starter and then it started right up, try tapping lightly on the starter, on my truck it is on the passenger side, right behind the wheel on the inside on the frame, its a big black cylinder, hope this helps OOWeaver68
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Do any of the lights burn when you turn them on?? If not, then you've got dead batteries. It takes a LOT of amperage to turn over a diesel engine, that's why there are two batteries on board. Those batteries could be over three years old. In my experiences, and these are my experiences only, I've only had one factory battery make it past three years. The batteries on my '99 F-350 crapped out in the spring of '02. If one of those batteries developed a dead cell, or otherwise shorted out, it will take the other one with it. You can try to charge them up, just make sure everything is turned off, in fact you might want to disconnect them just to be sure. I would replace them anyway. It won't hurt to have fresh batteries on board.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Those type of problems almost always return. And when they do, the truck probably won't start at all. I had a Jeep that would do the same thing. Once in a while it wouldn't turn over. About three weeks later as I was trying to leave work, I almost didn't get it started. Once I got it going, I went straight to the parts store, didn't shut it off while there, and had it fixed that night. Just be careful pulling that starter off. I don't know exactly what it weighs, but it's kinda heavy when you're lying flat on your back, holding it with one hand while you pull the bolts out with the other.
  • ooweaver68ooweaver68 Posts: 6
    i know it would return somtime and it did this morning, i stopped to get fill up the truck and it didnt want to start, so again i tapped on the starter and it started right up. my dad is working long hours right now so we wont fix it right now. but sometime we will fix it, probably right after i graduate and get some money.
  • paintmanpaintman Posts: 23
    my f250 steering is moody sometimes its a dream and sometimes it fdeels like im fighting someone for the wheel , is it posessed?
  • Help.. I found the fuel filter but cannot figure out how to remove it! it looks like there are small clips holding it on to the fuel line. I remove the clips and try pulling the fuel line off, but no luck. Is there a trick or tool I need? P.S. I really am on a nearly deserted island and no easy way to get anything... so I'll have to "improvise" any special tool. thanks
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Have your steering system tested for leaks... I blew the whole box on my 93 F150 because no one noticed the leak, and they couldn't explain why I was constantly topping off the steering fluid. It started fighting me with no warning, then finally, I couldn't turn left at all, just straight or right. (Here's a test - figure out a route home from work without ever making a left turn.)

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • 1mac11mac1 Posts: 1
    I have a 93 f250 and when I let the clutch out for the first 2-3 times i get a sometimes very loud grinding noise. Is this the dual mass flywheel going or a tranny problem. I should say that this doesn't happen all the time .
    I have gone as long a 3 weeks with no noise. It sounds like a loud ratchet.
    7.3L ZF5spd
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