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Comments
If you're still under warranty bring it to the dealers attention - have them replace weatherstrip and adjust the door.
For it D.I.Y. fix, you can try adding some 1/8 -1/4 inch diameter silicone or plastic tubing inside the current weatherstrip to beef it up so it doesn't compress as far. It will hold the door and stop the rattling.
At the top of the door, put the tubing in the rain channel above the doors. In the weather strip around the inside of the door opening there is a slit where the pieces join at the bottom. Just oil or use WD-40 to lubricate the tubing and push it in the opening at the bottom and work it a little at a time all the way around the strip. There are holes made in the weather strip where you can spray the oil in.
Now for the bad news - expect 6 to 8 mpg while towing. hehehe
I've been meaning to post my experiences some time now, but been very busy.
I have a Black 04 F250 6.0 4x4 SuperCrew XLT SB that I bought new. About 30k miles, I started noticing a 'Rough Idle' that would come and go, but seemed to manefest itself when I was at a stop light on a slight incline. I figured it was bad gas or maybe i would need the oil changed. I just ignored it, this was my first diesel.
About 32k miles, the transmisison light came on. It would come and go. The manual said it could be bad gas, so when I fueled up, it went away so I figured that's what it was.
About 33k miles transmission started slipping and jumping in the lower gears. I could drive from Mesa to Tucson without any problems until I started getting into stop and go traffic, then it was quite the ride. Floor the gas pedal, see the RPM's climb, and speed slowly increases until some breaking point and the transmission would jerk forward. There's always be some sort of strange klunk that happens when I startup and place it in reverse.
I took it to Berg Ford, they had it for about a week and said it was fixed. Some sort of faulty solenoids.
The cool thing was they gave me a rental car at no charge because it was warranty work. Well, the truck worked great until I got it back down to tucson, and started behaving worse. The transmission would start slipping and the The Tow Light would come on for some strange reason.
I drove it back, and they gave me another rental car. (5.0 Mustang Convertable was nice to drive around), so I couldnt' be that upset. Repairs took another week, and they told me to come back and pick it up.
So I drive all the way back there, and they told me it was some sort of warped solenoid pan, musta been bad workmanship. Once again the Truck works for about an hour, then same old transmssion problems. This time I would have to shut the Vehicle Down and then restart it and then it would behave ok, at least driveable. The tow light would be on at that point in time.
When I returned the vehicle for the 3rd time, they gave me some lemon escort, so I planted the flag about needed this truck fixed this time around. Everone made fun of the escort wondering what in the hell I was thinking. You traded your truck in for that!!!
I told the dealership I wanted a new transmission. They said that ford mandates that they can't give a new transmssion unless the repairs exceeded 3500 bucks. I said this was my 3rd time back, surely we are at that point. They said they could replace every part and not exceed 3500 bucks. (I'm sure since it was warranty work that's the case, but if it was on my nickle, it would be quite the different story).
Well, when I got the truck back for the 3rd time it seemed to be in pretty good shape, not 100% but maybe 95% percent.
At 48,000 miles my transmission started acting up again. Doesn't have any power when I start the thing up, seems to take forever to wind up. Once I get to 40 mph, power resumes. I changed the oil, differentials, and fuel filter and that seemed to reduce some restriction, but still no power in the lower gears. Looks like I will have to take it in again or just go with another Heavy Duty Truck brand -- what other options do I have? Shell out 4k for transmission repairs every 25k miles or so?
So naturally, I am very disappointed at this F250 6.0 TD. I bought what I considered the toughest truck and the power train has lemoned out on me. I don't do any pulling, and most of my miles are highway miles and I average about 400-425 miles on a tank.
My greviences are #1 - Issues in the first place, and #2 - Trying to Get the Thing repaired the first time, Ford should have just bolted on a new transmission and been done with it.
Hope your experiences are better.
I think that a liner cushions and protects the bed against objects that are thrown in (firewood, etc.) and might gouge the bed. Not so with a spray on. If you are concerned about things sliding around on a bed liner, put a piece of plywood in.
Now, if you value looking cool, then get a spray on that is the same color as the body and glows when lit by head lights.
Recently purchased a new 2005 F250 PSD - what a great truck! I'm trying to determine if I have a problem with the outside temperature display. When I start the truck in the morning - it reads 80 degrees (in Phoenix) and adjusts downward very quickly if it's colder than that outside. However, if it's 100 degrees outside, the adjustments are very slow going up and seem to happen only after the vehicle is traveling at least 40 mph or more. When I arrive at work in the morning, the outside temperature displays 78 degrees. When I get back in my truck around 5 p.m., it displays 78 degrees (when it's 109 degrees outside). It takes my truck 10-15 miles before the display actually gets up to 109 degrees and I have to be moving for it to do so. Has anyone else had this problem and if so, what did you do to fix it.
Thx
Purchased my 2005 F250 PSD, Crewcab 4X4 in December 2004 and have experienced similar problems with my outside temp display. Since I only have 1300 miles on the truck, it has not been back to the dealer for service. This problem will be on my "hit list" when it goes in for its first service. Please post anything you find out if your truck goes in first.
My police department was recently awarded a F250 Super Duty V10 6.8 engine truck related to a drug crime. We tried to improve the performance buy trying to purchase a superchip / hypertech chip. I was informed they do not not make one for this truck.With out spending thousands of dollars how can I get some more speed out of this truck if it is possible ? I would appreciate any tips of the trade or experience with imporving truck performance..
Thanx Badge 103
kcram - Pickups Host
Diablo or Superchip - they gave more power than Banks. Note: Chips for V10 usually require Premium fuel. (Hope you can fill it up off of your department's fuel pumps.
Are you looking to improve response off the line, or you looking to increase the top end? Be advised these pickups are governed at ~95 mph. They do that because, #1 the tires on these beasts aren't made to go that fast for an sustained time. (I don't think anybody makes speed rated tires in the stock size.) Also and more importantly, the drivetrain components are designed for towing/hauling not high speeds - been told that driveshafts and front ends can grenade at sustained high speeds - which is why Ford governed it.
My stock V10 won't beat a Corvette off the line, but it still moves impressively fast for a 7500 lb. vehicle. From '99 to '02 V10s had a "minor" problem called exhaust flutter. Around 2000 rpm there was a resonance in headers/manifold y-pipe that made it sound like a diesel motor. Flutter didn't hurt engine, but in the process of trying to iron it out, Ford tried a whole bunch of different computer programs mods to reduce it. Some of the codes worked reasonably well, but others killed the engine's power when they killed the noise. You could try having a mechanic reflash the computer to try a "better code."
You can gain some improvement relatively inexpensively by helping the motor to breathe easier - you can add a K&N air filter to help the intake. A Cat-back exhaust system will help a bit too.
Folks have changed the headers, and rear end gearing, but you're getting pricey for those mods.
Thanks for answering my message. The truck is a 2001 gas engine. Top end speed is what I would like to improve if possible. The truck is governed at 95 mph like you stated. I have been looking into a K&N air flow system and possible a throttle spacer would this help the performance I am looking for ? I am not looking to make it like a Police Interceptor even thoe it would be nice just looking for a little bit more speed.
Harness for the engine going to the injectors..my '04 is in getting done as we
speak. It was on the Yahoo News last week...total about 244,000 F-250, 350,450
and 550 gas and diesel trucks....pain in the b.... stalling is one of the signs..per
the service mgr. where I went....have a nice day.
This is the link for the recall. You need to type in the truck info. I had this problem with a 2003 f250 with the new psd got a new 2005 so far so good. They say you can also call ford at 1-800-392-3673 to get the info since the trucks are not made in VIN order.
Lost all power a week ago. Technician found the Vanes in the Turbo seized. Installed new Turbo in addition to upgraded controler from Ford. He doe's not know why he was instructed to change the controler but suggested that the change may address the problem somehow. Also suggested that I drive it a little harder. Other F-250s have had the same problem with this model of Turbo.
Lost all power a week ago. Technician found the Vanes in the Turbo seized. Installed new Turbo in addition to upgraded controller from Ford. He doe's not know why he was instructed to change the controller but suggested that the change may address the problem somehow. Also suggested that I drive it a little harder. Other F-250s have had the same problem with this model of Turbo.
THANKS
JOSH
Torque converter has varying amount of slip depending on the speed/load of the motor, the gear the tranny is in, and the speed of the truck. Slip is needed at various times for proper operation, and torque converter slip is programmed to run in a ratio to engine rotation. Shortcoming: slip is a source of inefficiency and reduces mpg. So, when truck reaches highway speed and the load is steady, the torque converter locks up, meaning it doesn't slip. The ratios is 1:1, torque converter turns once for each engine revolution.
The thing about torque converter lockup is that many time you can feel it. Almost like the truck has shifted into another gear. Some vehicles have it more pronounced than others. I feel it on my truck, depending on how I'm driving it may be subtle or at other times it's a definite bump. It's not a problem.
Now, a word of caution. You will be putting these tires on an F-250. Superduties typically come equiped with Load Range E tires, I think, at least that's what was on my F-350. I'm pretty sure my buds BFG M/T 33's are only Load Range C. You ave a very heavy truck, upwards of 7k lbs. I would venture to guess the front axle will have close to 4k lbs on it, without any sort of a load on the truck. I'm afraid the BFG's will be at, or at least very near, their load limit on the empty truck. Check out your individual axle weight ratings on the inside of the drivers door jamb. Then divide that number in half to find out how much weight each tire must support. Check out the ratings on the tires to make sure they can handle that much weight.
It's an under thirty minute fix, depends on the size of your hands. It is located on the front of the block to the left of the water pump - as you're facing the front of the truck. It's tight in that area, that's why I mentioned the size of your hands. If you go to the Ford garage, you'll pay WAY TOO MUCH for it. Find the nearest International truck dealership/parts store. That engine was made by International and they know it as the "T444E". The last time I heard anyone say, the International CPS only cost around $90.
If you've got play money, you can probably add a chip to raise the power and thus use less right foot and rpm to accelerate. If that interests you, stop by the new Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification Board here at Edmunds Forums.
kcram - Pickups Host
39 gallon fillup has gotten a bit painful again, but this truck is not my daily driver. V10 is superb motor. Loads of power without the extra baggage associated with diesel care and feeding, They've tweaked V10 HP, torque , and economy a bit with the new 3 valve engine in '05.
brake control? Is there a panel under the hood to connect auxilary accessories
to that those switches turn on and off? Thanks for any info.
Closer tolerances in newer engines require thinner oil (15/40 guys are you listening)
Ive been building and rebuilding caterpillar engines for 10 years. Cat recommends 10/30 for 0 to 95f.
Letting your engine idle under 1K will shorten bearing and piston life
Save the 15/40 for your old Pete or KW.
Although I have run 15/40 in my 84 and 94 w/o no problems.
rotella-shmella. overpriced
If your front end needed all that work, did you also change the steering stabilizer? The original equipment ones wear out fairly quickly. You may be feeling bump-steer now that the rest of the front end has been tightened up.
Also, did you look at the ball-joints? The OEM ones don't have grease fittings and can take a beating from the weight of your diesel. If your tie rods, etc. were shot, odds are the ball joints aren't too far behind.
Any suggestions on getting a more throaty sounding exhaust short of trading in the truck?? Any thoughts on the new exhaust kit for the f250 v10 by MagnaFlow Performance?
Please help!
Would be grateful for advice about what to be especially cautious about. Truck seems to run OK, though a bit slow to come to a smooth idle. It seems to have lots of power.
Have been very happy with my 1984 GMC High Sierra 6.2 diesel half ton 4x4, but really need a 3/4 ton...
Thanks for help!
Barrett
I was told that because of firing order of V10, you get a different timing between the exhaust pulses and the system just doesn't have time to resonate like a V8. The next pulse cancels it out.
Considering the symptoms - fan very loose and metal shavings all over the engine, are you sure that the fan wasn't hitting something as it spun? Get an inspection mirror and start looking around the fan blade area, it could've been chewing into the back of the radiator or somewhere else. I know water pumps make a lot of noise when they go - but in my experience they released metal into the cooling system, not over the top of the engine.
You could have two problems - a bad fan clutch and a bad water pump.