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Ford F-250 Owners



  • The problem with those listed payload capacity numbers is they only consider the truck in its base model configuration. Based on your statement of 2,200 lbs being 80% of the listed payload capacity, then I'm assuming a total payload of roughly 2,750 lbs. In Supercab, long bed, Powerstroke configuration, that truck should gross somewhere around 9,950 lbs. That's actually overweight for a single rear wheel F-350. Now, if he has a 4x4, then his gross weight would be around 10,250 lbs! That's approaching the GVWR of an F-350 dually.

    But pf_flyer, you're right. Anytime you put that much of the trucks total capacity in it, it's gonna set it down.
  • I am looking to purchase a F-250 4x4,, Loking for any Pro's/Con's. Thank you for any imput..
  • Looking for new or used? If used, what year - Superduty or Pre-Superduty. Is it a weekend toy/grocery getter, a tow vehicle, off roader, or a work truck? Do you plan to carry heavy payloads? Do you plan to tow anything, if so, what is it and how heavy is it? What configuration, long bed or short bed, regular cab, extended or crew cab? Gasser - V8, V10 or a Diesel? Are you going to keep it stock or do you plan on bigger tires and a lift?
       F250 is a great truck, but in the '98 thru-'04 models it has surprisingly limited payload and towing ability for its size. As noted in previous posts, the older F-250;'s GVWR (Gross vehicle weight rating) is only 8800lbs. As you add features, i.e. bigger cab, diesel engine, etc. the truck gets heavier but the GVWR doesn't increase. Get a crew cab, 4x4, diesel, and you may not be able to legally carry more than about 1200 lbs of payload. This can limit your ability to tow a 5'ver or a goose-neck trailer that puts a fair portion of its weight on the truck..... If you need more payload, then consider an F-350 - for about $700 more, you gain about 1200-1500 lbs more payload capacity over the single rear wheel F250. '05 F250 has been redesigned - has ~9500 lbs payload so above isn't as important.
       As engines go, it depends on your needs - if the truck's a regular cab short bed - the 5.4L V8 is fine. If you've got a Crew Cab, long bed, then you may find the truck to be rather sluggish and you may be better off with a V10. If you tow heavy all the time then maybe a diesel is the engine for you. Diesel will give better mileage over gas engines, just has more maintenance and driveablity issues.. If you buy used, the 7.3: Powerstroke Diesel is a great engine and had all its kinks worked out by 2000-2002 model years. Watch out for the '03 6.0L Powerstroke - lot of birthing pains with that new engine - you could get stuck with someone else's used Lemon. Ford fixed most of the 6.0L engine issues in late '03.
        By and large, Superduty F250s are superb trucks and will handle lots of work and abuse. Regardless of what you read in these forums, they are well built and for most folks are relatively trouble free.
  • Hello out there in Powerstroke world. I’ve posted several notes concerning the problems with my truck. The quick recap is: I’ve had a moderate power decrease in my 2000 PS 7.3. It has 66K miles and is still in the 5 yr warranty period, but only for a few more months. All of the obvious and cheap fixes have been tried with no real improvement.

    The latest developments are thus: I took our dealers’ designated diesel tech for a test drive with a 9000 lb trailer attached. Without admitting any problem, he said he would set up an appointment with the Ford traveling troubleshooting guy. I assume this is some kind of PS expert. The tech told me (while away from the shop) that Ford tries to blame everyone but themselves in these situations. They start with fuel and oil, and then move on to the owner, other service shops, etc. I wanted to post this message for those out there not aware of this. I must be a little naive for not knowing this before.

    On a related subject, I bought a new Dodge D3500 Cummins 2 weeks ago. It is to be a replacement work truck for my F250. The reason I bought a Dodge is because of my tribulations with Ford. I’ll be able to offer a comparison between these trucks given time.

    There is real value in hearing the comments of those who have owned more than one type of diesel truck. How about it? Anyone around who has owned a Ford, Dodge, and Chevy? It seems like one brand owners are always happy with their trucks. I always wonder how much of this satisfaction is due to the natural tendency to justify ones’ choices. Any impartial consumer of all three trucks out there?
  • mmb1mmb1 Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 F250 diesel 7.3 PS. Below 40 degrees it will not start unless I use the engine block heater. I'm using a diesel fuel conditioner to prevent gelling, and I always wait for the "Wait to Start" light to disappear before cranking the engine. If it sits in weather below 40 degrees for more than 4 hours, I have lots of trouble starting it without the engine block heater. (It smokes a lot, and I have to crank it for 10 minutes before it will start, if it starts at all.) Any suggestions? Should I take it to dealer and have them look at the glow plugs? I love this truck, but can't live like this in Wisconsin where it is very cold! Thanks for any advice.
  • 40 degrees shouldn't require the block heater. Sounds like your glow plugs are still on summer vacation. Do the headlight lights dim or do you see a voltage drop when the glow plugs are supposed to be on. If you don't, it sounds like you need to get it serviced. Have you checked the basics like the fuse and the glow plug relay?
      You won't be going anywhere once temperatures get down below freezing......
  • It could be that your glow plugs aren't working. I'd check the fuses first. If the fuses are ok, is power getting to the relay? When was the last time you changed the fuel filter, could be that it is partially plugged and a small amount of gelling is not letting the fuel through. What brand of fuel conditioner are you using? Are you sure it's an anti-gelling formula? Not all fuel conditioners are.
  • Walt just hinted at something I didn't think of. Are your batteries good and STRONG? Weak batteries make cold weather starts difficult. Those glow plugs really pull a ton of amps.
  • mmb1mmb1 Posts: 3
    Temperature is 31 degrees this morning, and I'm stranded at home because it won't start (as you predicted). The headlights do not dim and I don't see a voltage drop while the glow plugs are supposed to be working, so that could be the problem. The battery seems fine, as the engine cranks quickly and lights are bright. I'm using Power Service brand of fuel conditioner, and it says on the bottle that it prevents gelling. Fuel filter was replaced about a year ago. When it finally starts, I'll be taking it to the Ford dealer. Problem is the last time I talked to them about this issue they said that they never change glow plugs. Makes me wonder if they'll know what to do. I'm taking along a copy of all the responses I've received to my post, and maybe that will convince them to take a look at these things. Thanks everyone, will keep you posted on how it goes.
  • If the truck cranks over rapidly, and I do mean rapidly, then the batteries are probably ok. You say the fuel filter was replaced about a year ago? I don't know how many miles you put on that truck in a years time, but the filter should be changed at least every 15k miles.

    Have you tried cycling the glow plugs two or three times before you try to start it? Here's something you can check in the drive, it'll only take a few seconds, BUT YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL! Pop the hood, then turn the key to activate the glow plugs. With the key still on, find the glow plug relay, which is on the top of the motor behind the fuel filter housing, there are two large diameter wires attached to it. In fact, it will resemble a starter solenoid. NOW THIS IS THE PART WHERE YOU HAVE TO BE CAREFUL. The terminals should be HOT. If they're not, most likely the glow plugs aren't working. I inadvertantly touched my relay one day while checking something else and it gave me a nasty little burn.

    I would tell you to use a voltmeter to check for voltage going to the plugs, but since I don't know what that voltage is supposed to be, I would only be guessing. There are some high voltage circuits under your hood.
  • I have the same noise in my 04 6.0 PSD F-250 Harley Davidson Pick-up. Did you ever determine the cause?
  • I have also had the spontaneous acceleration problem with my 04 F250. It concerns me to the point that I place it in neutral when at traffic lights in case it wants to perform a vicious surge when I am behind someone. It started around 4000 miles and I have tried new filters, removing water from the seperator, etc. Dealer tells me there are no known complaints of this problem and of course it has failed to act up at the dealership. If you have resolved the problem or have any other info I would appreciate your input.
  • In June 2004 I purchased a new F-250 with the 6.0 Powerstroke Diesel. At about 5,000 miles it began to surge slightly at hwy speeds and as I continued to drive the truck it would surge more often and at lower speeds. Eventually it stalls when stopped. I have had the truck at the dealer 5 times in an attempt to correct the problem. After each "repair" it runs for up to 14 days and then repeats the same pattern. The dealer says they can't duplicate the problem at the dealership and its is not registering a problem to the truck's computer system. Is this just my truck or has anyone else have any experience with this kind of problem?


  • What would be the best rear end option for the f 250, it would be used for plowing. wht kind of performance can I expect. What about the installation of a Superchip, Is there much difference?? Thank you
  • Get the shortest ratio you can get, probably a 4.11/4.10. You'll need it if you're going to be snow plowing with it. If it's a diesel, the chip will make a HUGE difference. If it's a gasser, probably only a minor difference.
  • Just to add to Jim's post. If you're gonna plow, a limited slip rear end would be most helpful. Ford's limited slip isn't the best in the business, but it can still get you out of situations where an open differential would just be spinning a wheel....

    If you buy a '250 gasser, I believe you can get a 4.30:1 rear end with the limited slip option. That'd get you the most low end grunt to move loads.
  • mmb1mmb1 Posts: 3
    Problem solved. I had to have the glow plug relay replaced. Now it starts fine. Thanks to all for the advice!
  • That's wonderful. I'm glad it was something simple and easy to fix.
  • kneisl1kneisl1 Posts: 1,694
    What mileage are people getting with the F250 with the GAS engines? Im particularly interested in the base V8 mileage. With what transmission? Thanks?
  • It will depend on the trucks configuration - 4wd vs. 2wd; regular, super or crew cab; auto or manual tranny; what gear ratio, but then again you may only get something like a 4.10 with the base 5.4 liter. From what others have told me, expect 13 to 15 mpg highway running empty.
  • kvirtkvirt Posts: 1
    F250- the worst vehicle I have ever owned.

    Mechanical issues:

    1. Lockouts changed at 70K

    2. Motor to shift to 4w changed at 75k

    3. Blown spark plug out of cyl. head at 85K

    4. Constant issues w/electrical

        a. Fuel gauge shows empty when full sometimes

        b. Passenger door powerlock doesn't always work

        c. Overhead console display shows empty tank when full;

        d. Shows 200+ miles left when tank low

    Overall, I've spent more money on this truck than all the Toyotas I've had combined. That includes 1 that went 225k, 1 215k, 1 98k (current), 1 150k
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 8,445
    I've never owned an F-Series or Toyota truck... were you doing the same work with the Ford as you were with the Toyotas?


    PF Flyer


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  • ford58ford58 Posts: 1
    In July 2004 we purchased a new F250 with the 6.0 powerstoke diesel. I vehicle begin to have problems 2 weeks after we purchased the truck. It has been in the repair shop 7 times. The dealer says they cannot duplicate the concern.


    We called Ford manufacture also. They are not going to do any thing. We are checking other options to see what we can do about this situation.


    Does your truck have over 24,000 miles on it?


    Your not alone...
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,019
    Maybe someone here with F-250 knowledge can help me out. My friend recently bought a used F-250 from a local used car dealer.I think it's a 1997. The wierd thing is, it has the rounded body style like the F-150. I've yet to see another one that looks that way. I even looked at all the F-250's on E-bay and they all have the more squared off shape. Did someone switch the tags on this thing or did Ford actually make some this way?
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • mullins87mullins87 Posts: 959
    Yep, what your friend has is the F-250 LD(Light Duty). I don't remember the years, I'm thinking '97 and '98, Ford built these. Basically they are a "heavy 1/2 ton" like what GM built years ago. Back a couple of years ago you could still get the same truck, only it was badged as an "F-150 7,200". The "7200" referred to its towing capacity.


    The F-250's that you're seeing on Ebay are the larger F-250's that shared the bodystyle with the F-350's and the '92 thru '96(or was it '95?) F-150's. The 250's and 350's changed their bodystyles with an early '99 model, which was really in '98.
  • toomanyfumestoomanyfumes S.E. Wisconsin Posts: 1,019
    Thanks for the reply. I think I was making him nervous; we've both been trying unsuccessfully to spot another one. Anyway, he's happy with the truck, it has a nicer ride than any other 3/4 ton I've ridden in.
    2012 Mustang Premium, 2013 Lincoln MKX Elite, 2007 Mitsubishi Outlander.
  • I have 04 250 6.0l diesel with the heavy springs and I tow a 26' 5th wheel and a boat and I also drive it in town alot to get to work. I would get the heaver springs and stabilizer bar because ounce you buy a truck over a half ton its going to drive like a lumber wagon anyway. I have had my truck 8 months and I love it and it drives great . I had a 03 250 5.4 gas and it drove just about the same as my diesel.
  • r. wr. w Posts: 2
    Just purchased a 05 250sd with the diesel. Picked up at dealer 01/08 drove home about 20 miles. Took off this morning after about 15 minutes I started losing power going about 65.

    I coasted off the road and when I came to a stop with my foot on the brake the engine died. I waited a minute and started it up and took off again about 3 miles later the same thing happened. Took off again stopped at a couple of stores with my brother following me. We switched trucks and he said he lost power but it did not cut off. Also I started feeling dizzy and sick after driving and noticed a fume smell coming in through the dash vents with the climate control on. Will take back to the dealer tomorrow. Has anyone experienced anything like this? I know they had a lot of problems and claims with the engine but thought they were all resolved now.
  • kyboykyboy Posts: 4
  • yhcyhc Posts: 6
    Good evening. I have '04 F-250 w/ diesel engine. I have noted that while I warm up the engine, the RPM would start out at around 600 but about a minute into it, it would rev up to 1,000 RPM and stays up there even after 10 minutes. RPM only climbs down when I tap on the gas pedal. I recently was at a dealership for service for the problem as well as for engine dying on me once while driving @15 mph. The service department replaced some sort of fuel valve stating that it was "sticking" and "should resolve the problem". However the RPM persists to increase during idling(thankfully the engine has not died on me again) and when I did go back to the dealer recently for the second time, I was then told that "Oh, it is suppose to do that". This is my first diesel engine vehicle so I am not too familiar with what the "normal" behavior of a diesel engine is. Has anyone experienced such problem? Thank you in advance for your time and opinion.
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