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Ford F-250 Owners

1235741

Comments

  • Orangecrest
        Glad to help on springs. As far as tranny, not sure. Asked about engine, just to know which transmission you had. DIesels had different auto for your year (Torqueshift). The V8 and V10 gassers had a different one (4R100?) .

    Just a long shot, you've said you had 4x4. Is it auto or manual? Could you possibly have the hubs unlocked, but have the transfer case engaged? You might be feeling the extra spinning mass of front drivetrain in that case, it may be soaking up a little of your engine power on acceleration.

       If you're that worried about transmission, have a transmission temperature gauge installed. That's the best bang for your buck as far as being able to protect your transmission. Heat is the biggest enemy - if you keep it cool (<225 degrees) then you should avoid most common transmission failures for a long time. If you do tend to run hot (your 5.4L probably hunts for the right gears more than my 6.8L), you can also add a supplemental transmission cooler if need be. Although, after '00, they increased the cooling from the factory, so unless you're towing I kinda doubt you'd need it.
  • Thanks...

    I probably should install the gauge, because I do tow a trailer, only about 4K total...

    The slip is probably in my mind... If it isn't I will probably find out in the near future... LOL!!
  • jf067jf067 Posts: 17
    I&#146;ve got just under seven thousand on it now, but I&#146;ve been hearing this noise since I picked it up. It has never towed or been driven hard, so whatever it is, it can&#146;t be due to excessive wear. The dealer&#146;s ears are deaf to it, but friends will look at me like &#147;What the ____ was that?&#148; when we&#146;re driving. I think there is a bug in the tranny or case, but I am resigned to driving it until I find the problem the hard way -
  • I know what you mean about the dealers ears being deaf. My wife has a Windstar with 45k on it. From day one the engine has made a knocking noise at idle up to about 1,500 rpm's for the first 10 to 20 minutes of run time. I have had it in the shop several times and the dealer says he cannot hear any noise. All I got to say is that I'm gonna keep bugging the crap outta him so that either they'll give up and fix it or they'll almost have to fix it when it breaks.
  • How about dropping the car off the night before and then going back the next morning and having them check it out? Sounds like the car is warmed up before you get it there and you can't get it to repeat what you hear because of it. My wife's CR-V does the samething.
  • jf067jf067 Posts: 17
    They only hear what they want to. I had an '02 Xterra with the same thing, I figured it was a sloppy rod or main bearing. Once it was warm, the oil would take up the slack. I went so far as to let the service manager take it home one winter night, the next day he claimed that he couldn't hear anything unusual. They act like it's coming out of their pocket. Doesn't the automaker pick up the cost when the vehicles within it's factory warranty? (I traded that in for the '04 S.D.) Now I have another noise to contend with. Good luck with that dealer, maybe they'll fix it to get rid of you right?! Jim
  • cpecpe Posts: 7
    When I put the trans in 1 it will idle for ever but if I try to move it will go about 20 feet and shut the motor off. The motor will start right up and idle fine. The local ford dealer is of no help except to take my money.
  • Been there, done that. They still didn't hear it. Let's see, between my wife and I - 1 new Cougar and 1 Windstar program vehicle, I tried to buy my truck from them, but they didn't seem very interested in finding the right truck for me. My parents have purchased 3 new Town Cars and 2 new F-150's from them. I don't feel like I'm asking anything unreasonable from them. Anyway, I'm creating a very long and detailed paper-trail concerning that knock.
  • Auto or manual tranny??? Engine light on? Checked for vacuum leaks? Will the engine rev up in neutral? Give us more details.
  • cpecpe Posts: 7
    auto trans no engine light engine will rev up in neutral.I didn't check for vacuum leaks.When you operate the truck in D it shifts through all the gears fine it only does it when you put it into 1
    Thanks cpe
  • Hmmmm. Check for leaks. I would even take it by AutoZone and let them scan it. If you have any pending DTC's, then they can tell you what they are.

    This is interesting. I'll have to think on this one. It sounds electrical to me.
  • MY DAD JUST BOUGHT A 250 SD WITH THE 6.0 AND WAS WONDERING ABOUT OFF ROAD FUEL IF IT WOULD BE OK TO RUN VS. ON ROAD PUMP FUEL. IF THERE IS ANY OTHER INSIGHTS ANYONE HAS ANY INFO WOULD BE APPRECIATED.
                            THANKS GARY
  • KYBoy,

        Off road and regular diesel are the same thing. With one important exception! Off Road fuel is missing a key ingredient to make your life run efficiently. The off road fuel doesn't have any Highway Taxes in it. This is a very important part of the fuel and while it doesn't help your truck run any better or worse - it could be very important to your legal health.
      Off road fuel has a red dye in it. It's perfectly fine to run in your farm tractor, log skidder etc. because they don't run on the highways. If a Motor Vehicle inspector checks out your on-road registered truck (for whatever reason) and finds the red dye in your fuel system you will receive a summons for evasion of taxes. I have no experience in this, but from hearsay, the fines are supposed to be quite hefty, and more than make up difference in the tax you were supposed to have paid. I've also heard that in some states if you're caught you could also forfeit your permission to buy any more of the off road fuel as well, but again that is from annecdotal evidence.
       Supposedly the red dye is very persistent. If you run a tank full, it will take several tanks of regular diesel to wash it all away.
  • cpecpe Posts: 7
    I had one deisel shop tell me they thought it might be the wiring in the steering column due to the fact that it only does it in 1
  • I just have a hunch that it is electrical, otherwise it would do it in any gear position. So the truck will do just fine when you take off in 2nd as well? Will the truck die if you manually downshift from 2nd to 1st with the accelerator lightly depressed? What does it do if you downshift with your foot off the accelerator? Does the truck lunge any at all when it dies? The reason for the last question is this - I'm wondering if the electrical problem could be causing the torque convertor to lock-up the instant the idle validation switch is turned off.

    This problem is not impossible to find. It may just take lots of experimentation to isolate the problem to only one or two sets of circumstances.
  • bdm1bdm1 Posts: 3
    My brand new 04 S.D. sounds like a light diesel when started cold until engine is completely hot. Even then if I strain to listen I can hear it knock. The truck has 1400 miles, has been to the dealer when it had 400 miles on it, they told me it was an acceptable noise as per special service message #16403 from Ford Motor Co. The noise has gotten worse in last 1000 miles. Does anyone know if this is truly acceptable? Does anyone know what this noise might be coming from?
    Thanks
    bdm1
  • I am considering purchasing a 2001 F250 SD, Crew Cab, Lariat with the V10. Any advice or warnings would be appreciated. A friend sold a similar one because of very rough starting if it sat for 5 or 6 days. Something about a vacume pressure drawing fuel into the cylinders when it sat that long. Has anyone heard anything about this type of problem on the 2000 - 2003 V10 engines? Thanks for help.
  • I have a 2001 V10, w/ ~30K on it. Haven't experienced or even heard of a vaccuum pressure problem and rough idle. It's not my daily driver, so it sometime sits for a week at a time - especially when gas goes over $2/gal. Starts every time with less than a half second of cranking, no roughness.

    My engine has been almost perfect (except for a small amount of exhaust flutter). Some of the '01s had "exhaust flutter." Basically a funny noise that was caused by a resonance in the y-pipe exhaust header at ~2000-2500 rpm. Not an issue, just an annoyance. FOrd changed header pipe in '01 and lessened flutter - it was much worse in '99, & '00.

       Only other potentially serious thing that I know of - some V10 Heads have been known to spit out a spark plug, because the plug was torqued too tightly and stripped out the threads in the cylinder head. Not a real common problem, but an expensive one to repair, and it can easily be avoided. There's only about 5-6 threads worth of holding power in the cylinder head (don't know why they didn't make it thicker). You need to make sure plugs are torqued to the proper spec, and don't over torque. Also, even though, they're supposedly 100K plugs it doesn't mean that you don't have to touch them for 100K miles - you'll be much happier (sorta) if you pull em, use a bit of anti-sieze on the threads and then put 'em back. Happy is a relative term, as plugs toward the back of the engine can be knuckle busters to take out even if they aren't stuck in the head.

      V10 in '01 had power increase over previous years. Plenty of power for towing, though towing gas mileage (while better than the old 460 engines) is still pretty abysmal. If you tow an awful lot - think about a diesel. All things considered, a V10 was a wonderful choice for my needs.
  • Thank you for the information. Very Helpful. I am aware of the the exhaust flutter noise issue and that it is not an engine-damaging issue. Also am aware of the potential tempermental nature of the spark plugs. The truck I am looking at only has 36k miles on it, and I plan to have the dealer change the plugs at 75k. I don't tow much or anything heavier than 1 to 2,000 lbs. Any other input would be welcome from others.
  • cpecpe Posts: 7
    Going from 2nd to 1st with accelerator lightly depressed it will go about 10 to 20 feet and the engine will die. It acts like it is running out of fuel and the service engine light came on but went off as soon as I re started the engine. The truck did not lunge.
  • bdm1bdm1 Posts: 3
    What is the noise that you contend with on the 04 super duty? Is that motor a 5.4 triton?
  • This problem seems very much like the "Piston Slap" problem the 5.4 and 6.8L engines had back in '98 and '99. Sounded like a diesel on start-up and got quieter as the engine warmed up. Was due to a slightly out of spec problem in the milling of the cylinder heads. Supposedly didn't hurt the motor, but Ford did replace a lot of them during that time if the customer squawked loud enough to be heard over the engine.

    Do a search on it in the archived Ford forums.
  • jf067jf067 Posts: 17
    No,[bdm1]I have the 6.0 diesel. My noise is in the drive- train. Something is clanking after I put it in drive and accelerate forward. Like Walt says above, your noise may be piston slap due an Ooops in manufacturing. Worse scenario - A bearing in the lower end, which as we mentioned earlier, the dealer seems to be deaf when you can hear it just fine. Jim F.
  • Anybody know of any hidden recall on f250 headgasket,My 2004 F250 6.0 deisel is in for a headgasket but Ford says all replacment heads are defective so far my truck has been with the dealer for two weeks now no end insight.
  • Has anyone connected a K&N Air Flow Filter?

    The problem I am having is the sensor that is in the area where the original air filter sits.

    If there isn't air flow passing this sensor, the engine stalls out...
  • Hello
      I have a 99 F-250 super duty 4x4 with a V-10 and an automatic transmition. When I drove the truck this morning, it shifted hard from first to second and from second to third, only those gears, drive or overdrive seem to be fine.When I checked the trany fluid it was just below the low mark on the stick so I added fluid but it still shifts hard. At the same time the service engine light came on , and the abs brake light came on. And now I notice the speedometer and odometer are not working at all. I have not noticed any problems at all before with this truck. It has 71000 miles on it. Could all these problems be related?
  • Don't think this going to help you, but my odometer went out at 16K. It had the work check across it and then even that went away.

    Ford changed out the whole speedometer section.

    I know I have an electrical short in my truck, but I am to busy to give it up.

    If it burns to the ground, I guess they will have to give me another truck?

    The service light just popped on today as well... Good luck...
  • connon1connon1 Posts: 15
    With the onset of colder weather my question is regarding proper warm up time for the 6.0 powerstroke. I could not find this addressed in either the owners manual or the deisel supplement supplied with my truck.The closest mention of warm-up was just to wait till the idle settles down before driving.Can this be good for the engine? Mine is the F250, cc,04.With nights now down in th 40's I am using the block heater.
  • So, first winter with the new Diesel huh? :-)
      40 degrees is not cold! So do you know about differences in winter and summer diesel fuel? How about anti-gel fuel additives.

     Once it does get cold, then wait the full time for the glow plugs to warm up. Once it fires up, waiting 'til the idle slows down is fine. It's not going to hurt the engine to start driving, just be nice and don't push it too hard for another 5 minutes.
       
       Also, in my opinion, if you're using the block heater when the temp is in the 40's all you're doing is making your electric meter spin around a lot for benefit of the electric company and almost no benefit to your truck. (Unless you want the cab to warm up a couple minutes quicker) I wouldn't even bother plugging in the truck until the mercury is well below freezing.
       Block heater probably won't make a difference in starting until you're down in the single digits or worse. Had a stretch of -10 to -15 last January. Buddy of mine (w/ 7.3) was able to start every time without using block heater. He had to cycle the glow plugs an extra time or two, and took an extra 10-15 seconds more cranking, but the truck always started. (His reason for not using the block heater: He forgot to take the extension cord off of truck and ripped the plug off the side of the house as he drove off, and as an added bonus he re-arranged his passenger side mirror into a work of modern art too!)
       Helpful Hint: If you the need to use the block heater, get a heavy duty appliance timer that can handle 1500 Watts or better and set it to turn on 3-4 hours before you leave in the morning. The motor will be warmed up by then, and your electric bill will be noticebly smaller too.
  • connon1connon1 Posts: 15
    Thanks for the advice.Actually this is my second winter with this monster but I get insecure when hearing conflicting stories about damaging deisels by not letting get up to temp.I kind of thought Ford would make a larger issue of warm-up in the owners manual if it were a critical point of operation.Though I am in Jersey and not Minnesota, it can get pretty cold.Just not yet.Oct.23 and no frost yet!
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