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Ford F-250 Owners



  • Thank you for the reply. It turns out that something had chewed the wires just ahead of my speed senser wich caused all the problems I was having.Everything seems fine now.
  • vancedvanced Posts: 1
    where is the cabin flter at on 02 f-250
  • have a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke with 65K miles. It lacks the power it had. I use the truck to tow work trailers in a specific area. Hills that used to be no problem now require many downshifts (auto tranny).
    I took it in 5K ago and the dealer replaced the turbo boost sensor. This helped some but did not really get it back to the original power level. I've returned it twice since. Their diagnostics find nothing wrong. All filters have been replaced. I switched to Motocraft oil because of an apparent problem of oil frothing that can occur using Rotella. The turbo is putting out 15 psi. This dealer does not have a dyno (and it's the only one around). I don't know if Ford or anyone uses them anymore. So their diagnosis is based on computer reports of fuel flow and who-knows-what-else. I'm going to take their service guy out for a road test today.
    The engine has 3 months left on the 5 year warranty. I'd really like to get it fixed before then. Any suggestions out there?
  • That's interesting, I've never heard of any frothing problems with Rotella. I've got a little over 160k on my '99 and it's had nothing but Rotella.

    Anyway, 15 psi sounds like it could be a little low on the boost. But since I don't have a boost gauge on mine, I couldn't say for sure. You might try disconnecting the wastegate line on top of the turbo. If for some reason the wastegate is opening early, that would bleed off boost and make the engine seem weaker. You said your's is an auto and the '99 models didn't have a cat on the auto, does your's? If so, it could be that it is plugged and not allowing the exhaust gasses to flow freely.

    Beyond any problem with the engine, does the truck roll freely? Could there be something dragging giving you the symptom of a weak engine?
  • Thanks Mullins87,

    I went on the test drive with the service tech from Ford. He agreed there was a lack of power (small but noticeable). Not surprisingly, he was not as concerned about it as me. We made an appointment to dig further into it starting next week.
    He says 16 psi is what they like to see from the turbo – I don’t know if the 15 psi I’m getting is close enough. We are at 6500’ elevation – which may be another factor.

    I will try your suggestion about disconnecting the wastegate line on the turbo. I think you’re onto something there because of the way the motor behaves. The drop in power seems most noticeable just after an upshift. For example, if I floor it from a stop, the truck accelerates pretty well through the first 2 gears. When it shifts into 3rd the power seems to disappear. I’m still accelerating, but that ‘kick in the pants’ jump is just not there. You know – the one that puts a big smile on your face. The turbo should be pretty well spooled up by this point.
    I don’t have a boost gauge either – which is too bad because that might be all that’s needed to diagnose the problem. The 15 psi figure is just what the service guys tell me from their tests.

    On your other suggestion, I’ll need some help. I don’t know what a ‘cat on the auto’ is.
    I think the truck is rolling freely, but that’s certainly something I’ll re-inspect.

    Our Ford service manager told me about the Rotella problem. He claims to have personally fixed over a dozen Powerstrokes that were running poorly by changing the oil from Rotella to (what else) Motocraft. We tried this in mine because, why not? If you can solve a problem that cheaply, it’s worth a try. Didn’t work but I’ve got nice clean oil in my motor. This was news to me because I’d always heard that Rotella was the best oil out there.

    Thanks again for your expertise. It is appreciated.
  • Well, at least your service tech is willing to try again to figure your problem out AND he has admitted that there DOES seem to be a problem.

    Like I said before, I don't know how many pounds of boost mine is making, but the reason for the comment is that I've been told by some very reputable diesel tuners that this Powerstroke and its turbo are capable of around 25psi without doing any damage to the engine or turbo. Turbo speed is entirely dependant on engine speed and how much fuel you're dumping into the engine. As you upshift through the gears, the turbo will slow down as the engine slows, that is very noticable in my 6-speed. Once you get into 3rd gear, the trucks overall gearing won't allow the engine to spin up as fast as it did in 1st and 2nd gears. Does that "kick in the pants" acceleration ever come back in 3rd gear? Mine comes back at around 65 mph, or around 2k rpm's.

    The "cat on the auto" comment is my way of abbreviation. I apologize for that. What I am referring to is that your truck with its automatic transmission probably doesn't have a catalytic convertor on it - I know the '99 auto's didn't while the 6-speeds did, I don't know if the same held true for the '00 model year. I just don't see how a catalytic convertor could possibly keep from plugging up given all the particulates in diesel exhaust. My dealership refers to that "cat" as a resonator. That's how I got a local muffler shop to take mine off, that and the fact I had a Ford replacement pipe with the "Ford" stickers all over it.

    I just had a light bulb go off in my head!!! Do you know what the exhaust backpressure valve is? Ask your tech to make sure it's not stuck in the closed, or semi-closed, position. That valve is located on the outlet side of the turbo and will definitely keep it from spooling up as it should. However, with you making 15psi of boost, chances are it's not stuck.

    I've always considered Rotella to be among the best as well, that's why I use it. I have worked for a large trucking company, that's how I got turned on to Rotella. Several of their trucks went over 1 million miles without an overhaul, while none ever went under 750k miles. I'm wondering if the problem your dealer noticed is due to extended oil change intervals. I've never tried this due to the relative low cost of an oil change versus the high cost of a rebuild, but I've been told that the additive package in any oil will slowly break down as the engine is running, eventually getting to the point where the package is no longer effective. I'm a member of another website consisting of over 30,000 Powerstroke owners. The subject of oil has come up numerous times. The only referances to oil foaming that I can think of now have been due to either going too long between changes or putting too much oil in the engine. I just don't know. Use whatever good quality diesel rated oil you want. Just make sure that it is DIESEL RATED.

    I'm just a diesel owner trying to help another diesel owner. I have no formal training, just what I've taught myself and picked up from other experts. So please, don't call it expertise. Just take it for what it's worth, free advice/suggestions from someone you've never met.
  • I just reread your post and noticed your elevation. I don't think that would cause too big of a difference. Back in May and June I spent some time in Grand Junction, CO. I made a total of four trips over Vail Pass, one pulling a mobile lab trailer. I couldn't tell you exactly how much the trailer weighed, it's 16' long enclosed, tandem axle, full of lab equipment. Just from an educated guess and the "seat of my pants" feel, probably around 8k-9k pounds. Making the climb up to the tunnel, I downshifted into 5th gear and kept the speedo at 65mph and the truck seemed to do it almost effortlessly. In fact, I couldn't really tell any difference than here where the landscape is considerably flatter and under 1k feet of elevation.
  • OK. The truck is now at the Ford dealership for further work on the lack of power problem. They want to try some reprograming to adjust turbo boost. Ever hear of that fix? I'm open to all suggestions. Again, I appreciate your help. I'll keep you posted.
    Colorado D
  • Oh yeah, reprogramming can make all the difference in the world. When you "chip" a truck, basically all you are doing is reprogramming the computer.

    Maybe in the back of your mind, your subconscience is telling you to trade that one in on a new 6.0 liter. Hehehehehe!!!!
  • Hello folks...

    Like the subject says, diesel newbie here, so put up with me for a bit.

    Looked at a '99 F250SD CC 4X4 Lariat 7.3 PSD auto trans on Monday. Read posts in this forum all night after that (whew!). Finally drove the beast a couple hours ago. I must own one of these rigs! It has 90k on it and has been used as a 5th wheel hauler. I live in Central Oregon, and know this truck was first sold in Portland, OR. so I am assuming most of these miles are freeway. (To get _anywhere_ from Central Oregon is a good freeway trip)

    Truck appears to have been well cared for. Very clean, no dings here and there. Leather interior, no tears, nothing missing or broken. Owners manual is there, sounds good when running, great brakes, throttle response seems good but am used to gasser trucks.

    What else should I look for/at? I am fairly confident in my truck buying "sense", but like I said, all previous trucks have been gassers. I have read that there are several fixes from the early 99 to late 99 models (this is a late 99), I can't get any info from the dealer as to the maintenance that has been done (anti-cavitation, tranny service, etc.) would any of this be apparant to a trained diesel mechanic?

    I am seeing the dealer again this Saturday to (find out if I can afford) sign papers/close deal. If any of you guys have input or suggestions I would sincerely appreciate it. Regardless, I was happy to find this forum. No bashing, no "idiot" calling, just happy truck owners... I love it!

    BTW, my current truck is a '97 Chevy Silverado extended cab 4x4 SB Z71... The best I've owned (so far) out of 3 F150's of various years, a '72 Courier (don't knock it, it did 125k _hard_ miles) and a '59 Chevy Apache (not in this class at all, I know but had to mention it)

    Happy truckin'!

  • Typically, you can judge the mechanical condition of a truck by its exterior appearance. Someone that never changes the oil probably won't bother keeping it clean. Maintenance is the key to owning a diesel, especially since it was used to pull a fiver. Regular maintenance that would apply to an gasser are more important in a diesel. The engine oil in a Ford Powerstroke is also used to "fire" the injectors, therefore not changing the oil could lead to premature injector failure. The trannies is these beasts are suspectible to failure due to inadequate maintenance. These engines produce a mountain of torque and can cook a tranny in a hurry when pulling a heavy load. Fuel filters need to be changed out every 15k miles at a minimum. Those items really can't be verified unless you can find the paperwork/receipts that show it. As fas as the anti-cavitation additive goes, you can check the levels yourself or the dealership might be able to do that. I do my own testing. I get my testing strips from an online place, but you can also get them at the International truck dealer. I'm pretty sure the strips I use are Fleetguard brand.

    I bought mine with 80k miles on her and haven't had any problems whatsoever, well I've had an ongoing injector problem caused by bad fuel with water in it. But that was my fault, not Ford's.
  • Any guidance would be appreciated in helping me find the F-250 Stainless steel or chrome fender emblems and the Powerstroke ones as well. Thank you!
  • Greetings Mullins87. Here's the latest. The dealer looked at my 7.3 again (re lack of power). They re-ran their diagnostic routines and told me nothing is seriously wrong. They changed the fuel filter and gave the truck back. I took another drive with the service tech. The truck moves OK without a trailer but still does not have that snap that you buy a diesel for. I’ll test it with a trailer tomorrow – but I can already tell that it’s going to feel gutless. The tech is satisfied that the turbo is working and hinted that a new set of injectors ($5K) would make the motor feel like new. This is not something Ford is willing to spring for unless there is a more complete failure. Their stance seems to be: you can’t expect new truck performance from one that has 65K. I feel that at this point the motor should have most of its’ working life in front of it.

    So where I'm at is hoping one or more of the injectors fail in the next couple of months so that they can be replaced before the warranty is up. The other alternative is to up the ladder (pitching a fit on each rung) until I get somewhere. I’m tempted to go to an independent shop, get it fixed, and give my dealer the bill. This would probably end up in court. I’m not the litigious type, but it may be the last resort in this case.

    Judging from these forums, there is a comprehensive roster of people with this same engine who are ecstatically happy with it – and almost all have many more miles than me.

    The story continues …
  • "Their stance seems to be: you can’t expect new truck performance from one that has 65K." SAY WHAT?!?!?!?! Woooo, back up a minute. 65K miles is hardly worn out. In fact, these engines typically aren't completely broken in until around 30k or so. $5k for injectors??? Around here I can get a set of rebuilt ones, with warranties of course, for $1,600 after core returns. Pulling injectors is not that big of a deal. I don't know your particular situation and if there are any other Ford dealers within a reasonable distance or not, but I'd look for one. It would also be a good idea to have the truck looked at by a reputable independent.

    If everything does check out ok, I'd just go buy a chip or a tuner for your truck. Even a very mild chip will put your performance beyond what it was originally. You can go that route for under $500. Just don't get carried away with a chip or tuner. You can get them with as much as 150hp, but I wouldn't suggest it. If you go that route, you'll need to do intake and exhaust modifications and add a pyrometer(measures exhaust gas temperatures), boost gauge and tranny temp. gauge. You can run a milder chip or tuner without any of these mods. By milder I mean 50hp to 75hp. I'm running a 75hp Western Diesel chip in mine. The change from stock was unbelievable! But, as a precaution, I don't immediately shut down the truck after high-speed running or after towing. I'll let it idle for a few minutes to make sure the turbo has cooled down. Turbo temps are your biggest concern with a chip or tuner.
  • BTW: I have 160k miles on mine. It uses about 1.5 quarts between changes and the oil stays fairly clear up to around 4k miles. Yeah, you're right, your truck should have the vast majority of its working life ahead of it. In fact, these engines are designed to go 300k miles before an overhaul can be expected.
  • I just bought an '04 F-250 w/6.0 and it IS FAST..
    I see they copied Banks with the 4" power elbow &
    4" exhaust..I sold an '02 Excursion with 7.3 PS
    and I added the Banks 4" power elbow and 4"
    exhaust to get 25 more HP..the 6.0 comes with it.
    You don't need to add a thing to what you have..
  • I am considering the purchase of an 05 SD with the PS diesel and wanted to see what kind of gas mileage I could expect since that information is not posted due to the GVWR.

    Thanks for any insight.
  • To sound Cliche: Your mileage may vary! ;-)

     Give us a little bit more to go on....The Superduty line runs the gamut from the F250 thru the F-550. What kind of truck are you thinking of?

    You can get a PSD in many different types of trucks. It can come in a Regular cab, Short Bed, Single Rear Wheel, 2wd pickup, along with all of the different variants all the way up to a Crew Cab, Dual Rear Wheel, 4x4, Chassis cab, with a 10ft long body.......

      You can also select it with a 3.73:1 or 4:10 rear axle ratio in the F250/F350. You can get 4:30:1, 4:75:1, or even higher in the F450 and above.

       All of these choices change the weight, size, and available power of the truck and have a direct affect on the fuel mileage.

    That said - folks with smaller trucks have reported as high as 20 mpg on the highway. While the bigger trucks with the higher gear ratios report 10-14 mpg on average,
  • Good points, I am looking at a F250, Crew Cab, 4x4. I want to go with the rear end that gives me the best MPG so any insight would be greatly appreciated.

  • F250 cc,6.0,4x4,3.73ls , 12500 miles. Now getting locally about 14.8 mpg and 17.5 highway with a heavy foot.I can only assume this will improve as the truck really isn't totally broke in yet.This is my daily ride and I love every minute of it.'Cept for parking it!
  • That configuration with the 3.73 gears should get you 19 to 20 mpg while the 4.10 gears will probably drop you 1 to 2 mpg.
  • I have recently purchased a 04 SD/CC/4X4/6.0. I will be towing a 9,000 lb 31' boat on a tripple axle. Most of the towing will be in town with a few trips to the keys each year. My question is can I tow in overdrive for long trips on the interstate? I assume that it would be o.k. if I keep a close eye on the tranny temp??
  • General consensus is that you can tow in overdrive so long as the tranny isn't constantly shifting in and out of overdrive, such as every time you come to a slight incline in the road. I am assuming you are talking about the factory tranny temp gauge? If that's the case, it's nothing more than an idiot light made to look like a gauge. I do know of at least one individual that has one of those and installed an aftermarket gauge to compare the two. He has noticed the aftermarket gauge shows a wide variation in tranny temps while the factory gauge goes to a "predetermined spot" and never moves. He said it reads the same pretty much all the time.
  • Thanks & yes I am referring to the factory gauge. In appearance it is identical to the engine coolant temp gauge. It has a wide rang for "normal" operating temp with a yellow area for warning & red for over temp. It seems strange that they would not measure actual temp.. but I will keep an eye on it when towing & advise.

    On another note, I would like to maximize my fuel economy. Most of the performance chips focus on increasing power.. This does not interest me. Are there chips that increase economy? I do not want to make any serious hardware changes.

    thanks again.

    Thanks again
  • I have a 2001 F-250 4x4 with the V-10 and just recently started hearing pinging or valve clatter going up grades and pulling my boat. Using 87 octane till now and wondered if anyone else has seen this problm. Love the truck but concerned about the noise.
  • I don't know of any that focus entirely on fuel economy, mainly just performance. However, most do claim an increase in mileage along with the increase in power. I can't speak for the "high performance" chips/tuners out there as I have one made for towing. My chip is a Western Diesel 4-bank chip adding appr. 75hp and 150ftlbs of torque. The performance gains are wonderful, both empty and loaded, and I haven't noticed a decrease in fuel mileage either. Now, if I didn't have so much fun driving it I might see an increase in mileage. But heck, who wants to drive with a light foot when you can have some fun and still have the same mpg as you did before the chip? Seriously, I have seen as high as 19.2mpg while my "empty" average is around 18mpg. I get around 16mpg when pulling my Jeep and got around 11mpg when pulling my camper.
  • Regarding my first question on the tranny.. Perhaps I should have consulted my owners manual first.. My 04 does not have OD. The feature is called Tow/Haul. I assumed that in Tow/Haul mode high gear was not available. All gears are available in the Tow/Haul mode which provides a slower upshift & provides engine braking.
  • Maybe someone can help me out here! I have an F-250SD extended cab with an 8ft box. I should be able to put an elephant in the back of this truck and then notice it start to sag. Put no i put 2200 lbs of dirt in the back and the bumper is lower than a corvette. Took it to the dealer, they brought out a new truck and it did the same thing. Has anyone complained to Ford? The machenic says that alot of people are also upset about this. I even just put a landscaping trailer with 300lbs of tougne weight on it and it sags like a wet noodle. Any ideas who to contact that could help.
  • There's nothing wrong with the truck, per se. An F-250 has a gross weight rating of only 8,800lbs. You do say you have the SC with the long bed, but is it a 4x2 or 4x4? I do know of F-250 CC LB 4x4's that weigh roughly 7,200lbs without any load in them. That only leaves 1,600lbs for the load. Not a lot at all for a 3/4 ton truck. The common misconception is that a 3/4 ton truck can haul/carry/tow anything. That just isn't true.

    Now, you take an F-350 in single rear wheel trim with it's 9,900lbs gross weight rating and it's a completely different ballgame. The two seem identical, but they're not. My F-350 dually has a gross weight rating of 11,200lbs. I have put a measured 2,550lbs of soybean seed in mine and can tell you it put the rear bumper even with the front bumper.

    If money isn't a problem for you, I'd trade that 250 in on a 350 dually. If you're in the habit of hauling around that much weight on a regular basis that would be the best thing to do. My other suggestion is to add either helper springs or airbags to help keep the truck level when it is loaded. Airbags would probably be the way to since they won't affect your trucks ride when empty.
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 8,333
    2200 pounds is about 80% of the listed payload capacity. I would expect that ANY truck would "sit down" a fair amount with that size load.

    PF Flyer
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