hey, there is a 2005 altima with 25,000 that I can get for 14,000. around 215 a month with a trade in of 3500. Does this dound like a good deal? would i still be able to get a full warranty on the altima?
$3500 for trade on what? $3500 is great for a 180,000 mile 1988 VW, but bad for a 2003 Chevy 4x4 truck - show us some specifics, and perhaps we can help.
I live in middle east and in this part of the world the resale value for American cars is very low but I want to buy a used Chevy Cavalier one 'cause it has dual air bags and ABS as standard. Any views about the effectiveness of ABS is appreciated.
Also, how does Cavalier fare with Malibu(both models are stopped in middle east around 2002)? These cars I can get around 40% cheaper than the Japan cars with same conditions.
Hi all. I am looking to get a used car sometime in the middle future. I have the exact model I want (VW Jetta Wagon 1.8T manual, with a few options like leather & moonroof, but in a pinch could do without those options.) The problem is that VW is not making too many more of them, and actually will quit making them wihtin the next year. And when they do make them, they make too many of them, so my local dealers never have them. There is a semi-local dealer 100 miles away who I've communicated with before who claims I can get a good internet pricing deal on a new car (at the time, a good price was invoice, which they said they could do) by "ordering" or getting one that is "on the dock" or whatever. But I may have to delay this purchase long enough so that there won't be any more new cars. And I don't care for the new platform that has come out - I like the old platform so much more that I would consider not getting the new Jetta platform.
And as for used cars that would come off lease or whatever - it's an impossibility in my area to get one. They were just never sold in my market. So I have resigned myself to possibly having to buy a used car from a dealer far, far away. Just doing a check on Autotrader yielded only 4 cars in the whole country that are currently listed that I would be interested in. It's a rarity - which could be a good thing if someone wants to sell and has been noticing there's not too many interested folks.
First off, I have no experience negotiating on a used car - I can negotiate on a new car because a new car is a known commodity, but a used car is quite a different animal. Second, it seems that if I would be desperate for a car to go a long distance, a dealer could play me like a fiddle ("oh that car was sold" or "I forgot to tell you that we already gave it a $2K 'polishing' [that cost $100]" or "I thought it had leather", etc.) - I can't just walk out the door. Third, even if I could somehow nail down a dealer with a signed contract, how do I know that a car is running right - is it possible to get a dealer to sign a contract to sell me car subject to my inspection? And I'm not even considering the possibility of a private sale (although I wouldn't necessarily have a problem with that.) I would be looking at car without too much mileage, so the original warranty would cover any problems.
So how does one go about doing this? I suppose I could just drive around, staying on the road and visiting dealers until I find the right car, and then buy it, but that could get a bit expensive. I'd prefer a better way to do this.
I'm looking to buy a car that seller is asking $7,500 for. The car is fine and I like it and I just need to square away the paperwork.
Seller is asking $7,500 cash. Seller says she owe's Ford Motor Credit $8,000 and the title is still in the lender's name.
She says if I pay her $7,500, she said she'll do these: let me take off with the car write me a bill of sale come up with $500 and pay off the loan and transfer the title over to me as soon as Ford Motor Credit transfers the title to her.
While the whole thing is understandable, I will not put $7,500 in her hands for something she currently doesn't have title for. I'm hoping I could find a third party agent who will take $7,500 from me, $500 from her, pay Ford Crdit, pay her and transfer me the title.
well, the one time I went through a transaction like this, I went to the buyer's bank and signed over everything, just like at a dealership. The bank then went through the process of getting the title, etc.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
So I found a good deal on a used car sold by a private party in New Yok. I did a carfax report and see a report of:
Date: 07/25/2003 Mileage: 36,207 Source: Auto Auction
Sold at auction in Pennsylvania Listed as a fleet vehicle
There's no report of an accident or anything bad to it - nothing in the report at all that says anything negative. I got a very brief inspection by a mechanic and the only bad thing he saw was a very minor oil leak, and that it looks as if the bumpers have been repainted (they look fine - just a little shade darker than the rest). Is it normal that cars are sold at actions? Should I be worried about this?
It's a 2000 accord - 39k miles ($1k - bb price). So I think it's a great deal. Some minor cosmetic damage, but nothing that bothers me.
if you did a carfax on all the used cars for sale at dealerships, you would see auction listings for 3 out of 4. most are fleet returns or lease returns. nothing to worry about.
Hi, I'm in the same situation as itsme000 a few messages back. The (private) seller has $13k left to pay - and I'm paying $11k for the car. The car is financed at the local honda dealer. Is there any way of doing this that doesn't involve me writing a check (made out to honda etc.) and hoping they send in their check for $2k? I can get the title signed over, and take possession of the car - but it'll still have a lien on it until I receive the lien release (I assume it would be mailed to the seller and then I'd have to go pick it up from him).
Is it possible to take care of everything at the dealership? I assumed the dealership financed it through central honda finance whatever. I'd really like to have everything taken care of in a professional way with everything done at the same time - but it seems so clumsy right now! The seller seems like a good guy, but I'm mostly worried it might take him forever to do his end. I'm moving cross country in a few weeks, and I want the lien off the title before I go!
I'm a first time car buyer - and this all seems like an enormous amount of money to me - so I'm kinda freaking out. Thanks for any advice!
-Jim ps. Once the title is signed over to me - am I legally responsible for the remaining $2k, or will the financing company still go after the original seller if anything happens?
I'm looking to buy a car that seller is asking $7,500 for. The car is fine and I like it and I just need to square away the paperwork.
Seller is asking $7,500 cash. Seller says she owe's Ford Motor Credit $8,000 and the title is still in the lender's name.
She says if I pay her $7,500, she said she'll do these: let me take off with the car write me a bill of sale come up with $500 and pay off the loan and transfer the title over to me as soon as Ford Motor Credit transfers the title to her.
While the whole thing is understandable, I will not put $7,500 in her hands for something she currently doesn't have title for. I'm hoping I could find a third party agent who will take $7,500 from me, $500 from her, pay Ford Crdit, pay her and transfer me the title.
Any idea how to approach this?
My girlfriend just sold her Focus that way. She owed $8,000, the buyer agreed to buy at $7,000. The buyer made the check to FMC, she made her check to FMC, sent it all in together. Both the buyer and seller signed the purchase agreemet with all the legal stuff, except notarization. A week later she had the title, gave it to the new owner. The new owner went to DMV got the plates and picked up the car on Monday. No problems. If you don't trust the seller enough to go with the transaction, how can you trust them that the mileage is true, and the car has not been abused? How can they trust you that you are giving them a legitimate check, Certified checks are one of the easierst things to fabricate. I have about 20 of them sitting from the Nigerian scammers from Craigslist.org, it is quite a collection.
Slip to me off the top of my head that 12k is a great price. There is a 2004 altima with 43k out here selling for $14,900. To me your getting a steal, and that car should still be under factory warranty
I am a college student and contracted AFROTC cadet on summer vacation. I've wanted to buy a Jeep Wrangler for as long as I can remember and now is my opportunity to do it. I've been looking around for a few months on Ebay as well as little used car lots etc, but havent found anything that really suits my needs and my budget. I am willing to spend between 4 and 5 grand, but I need something without a hundred thousand miles. This is because I put a few hundred miles on my car each week just going back and forth between meeting for the Air Force. I would appreciate any help that I can get. So if there is anyone here who is selling a car, or knows somewhere that I could get a good deal, I would love your feedback. Thanks alot.
I have the option to buy a 2000 Benz E320 for $17,500-42,000 miles from a private owner. Capital One has quoted 7.8%. Benz has all options-rain sensitive wipers incl. Car is in Philly suburb. Any comments???
I just returned from a trip to a dealer. I like them and they weren't pushy but instead of discounting the used car I want to buy, they keep offering more for my trade. What's the difference? Is there something I should be concerned about? Wouldn't the bottom line be the same? :confuse:
Iam looking to buy a used car in the range of the most being $18,000, something in the 01,02,03 years. I really like the Lincoln LS and the Jaguar Xtype. The reason for the post is what other cars compare to these with price and as smooth as those two mentioned. He is my situation, just grad from U of Arizona. Living in Chicago, moving back to AZ at end of summer. 23 yrs old, what would you guys buy in my situation. All responses very helpful, thanks alot ya'll, hope all is well.
If you are trading, the only difference is the difference, as a very wise man likes to say
Anyway, it's pretty much just booking as to how the show the numbers. No diff. to you if they show 10K trade/20K new, or 15k/25k. You still have to pony up the 10K differnece.
One caveat, if you are in a state that charges tax on the price of the new car (not just the difference), then you do care. If it means that much to you, once you reach a deal, ask them to write it up differently.
this actually happened to me once. I traded in a van on a new one, and made the deal based on a nice discount and good trade offer. When they did the paperwork, they showed the new car at MSRP, and inflated the value of the trade. I'm sure it meant something to them, but I didn't care, since it cost me nada.
My husband bought a used 2002 Acura TL from a dealership, signed the financing papers, but did not give them any money. The car hadn't been detailed so he didn't drive it home. Then he had buyer's remorse over paying too much. When he went to pick up the car, one of the employees went to buy gas (as promised) and damaged the car. We have never taken legal possession of the car and now want out of the deal. Any other similar stories out there?
My husband didn't give them any money but did sign financing paperwork. We're going there tonight to return the loaner car and tell them we don't want the car. He's going to do the talking and I'm the videographer. We consulted an attorney and he said we can back out.
Okay, I can purchase a 1998 ES/300 Lexus or a 2003 Nissan Altima for the same price Which would be the best deal? The lexus has 69000 miles and the altima has 50000 miles Thanks
I really like digging out little $1$1,5 deals on used cars, 89 Aerostar for $1000 til friend wrecked it, 89 NPR delivery truck that's torquing the neighbors for $1500 - still going strong but had to drive if from Rhode Island to Georgia.
So, when my friend needs a beater to get them through the next year or two, I think it might be fun, esp with a $3k budget. Start looking around and it seems like everyone in the universe wants $10,999 for their Elantra with ONLY 200k on the clock.
I hit some folks in-and-around 1-1,5 on 92 Crown Vickies this afternoon and you'd think I assaulted their sister. I'm looking at a 97 w/100k that they're starting at 5 thousand.
Any suggestions on a solid daily driver in the $3-5 area that's actually available in the market? Only constraints are "4 doors and AC". Oh, and they despised their Corolla for being too small.
No you're not nuts. THEY are nuts, and that means most people.
I've looked at dozens of cars in the last five decade, and they all were in "excellent" condition. That's the first problem with the pricing guides; everyone reads them, nobody understands them, and so you're $1-2k off from the get-go. No such thing as an 80k car in "excellent" condition. The mileage adjustments aren't big enough, so sometimes it works out when the don't add enough for low miles... when it's high miles, duck & cover.
The only time when the price was right was from a friend, neighbor, coworker, someone who didn't want to mess with the private sale really and wanted it over with quickly.
I find that it takes a lot of time to find something decent for around $2, and it takes a little luck. When you get it, it's sweet. My advice to people, and I recently followed it, is to scrape together $6 or so and find a nice 2000-2002 car, truck, or minivan. At that price point, people typically want the money pretty badly, as opposed to the $1,200 range, where it usually isn't that big a deal. And if it is, chances are the car wasn't maintained due to lack of funds.
It was only a decade ago that the price guides really became popular, and I believe it has made things worse, on the whole. I've come to the point where I'd rather go to a good used-car lot... at least I'm dealing with people who know what stuff is worth.
There is an old saying that you can ASK for ANYTHING.
One of my buddies at worl had a '93 Crown Vic in very good condition, all leather with 105k miles. He wanted a small SUV so he offered me the car. I asked him what he wanted figuring that if I did not buy it, I had a couple of people in mind that might be interested. He wanted $5k. And I told him that he could have $5 is the car came with JLo in the front seat. $2k tops although he could weasel another 500 as the car was in great shape whereas my beater looks like it collided with a Starbucks truck.
We agrees to disagree and he kept the car. And the engine died at 120k and he dumped the car. I asked him why he didn't dump another reman in the car for under $2k but he insisted on buying another used Crown Vic. I told him his mechanic got a good deal.
I ***HATE*** dealing with private owners, period. To most car dealers, a vehicle is a hunk of metal to move at the right price. Some private buyers want a king's ransom for a car that is just worn out.
Fortunately, there are a million cars for sale in Alamo country ...
I have to deal with this on a daily basis. These wonderful price guides and the internet have empowered people as never before.
Now they **know** what their trade is worth! they scan the various guides until they find the one that shows the higest possible price. Of course, they click on the "excellent" box to arrive at their number.
But, the trade is strictly a wholesale piece...we don't want it. It's a 1996 Chrysler Van with 120,000 "all highway" miles. It has "small" dent in one of the doors that "can be pushed out". the A/C is dead but, it "just needs a charge" ect...
" You guys can buy tires for wholesale" that kind of a thing.
I only wish those guides would buy these cars for what they tell people they are "worth"!
Oh, and that Ford didn't have an "ALL leather" interior. You would be surprised just how little leather there really is. Usually just the seating surfaces.
Did you ever wonder when you drive by a "big" boat dealer, that they have "very few" trades ... I mean they will have a few here and there, but 90%+ are on broker sale and there's a reason for it .... look at the BUC book or the Nada, it's psychotic ...
Most boats are in the "books" for more than they paid for them new - and were not talking about baby dolls here, were talking about boats that are 3/4 years old, they have 400 hard hours, the macerators were last cleaned in 02, they've hit every dock and palm tree between Boston and Marco Island and the interior and the canvas looks like a Taliban training camp ..
I mean we're talking $1,500 in service (if your lucky) another $800/$900 in Fiberglass work (hopefully) and another $700+ in canvas ... oh yeah, and let's not forget those 400 hours, thats like 80,000 miles in a 4 year old car, so lets knock off another $9,000, at least .... and they want "How Much" ..?!? ..l.o.l...
"yeah, but the book says" ... is there any pages in the book that you can rip out and they will send you that kinda money for it.? ..... :shades:
I have come across a 2002 Trailblazer LT.. Leather seats, Fully Loaded etc with only 18000 original miles on it. An old lady is selling it as it used to be her deceased husbands car. Its been garaged for over 2 years and has only been used a few times... Its absolutely like brand new... Problem is im not sure what to offer for it... We were thinking of 15000... It might even have some warranty left on it...Does this sound like a good deal??
I have been trying to find a decent used truck in the 4k to 5k range, but like you guys said earlier, it is hard to get something decent now days.
I recently ran into a 02 chevy S10 work truck w/ long bed, V6, AM/FM radio and A/C. The truck has some small dents, nothing big, the interior is in good shape and the truck bed is average. The truck is selling for $3900 with 240K on the odometer, I was wondering how much useful life can a truck have with that many miles??
Got a nibble on a stretch - 92 'Vickie, white, 48k miles (as in "less than a half century"), auto, loaded to the gills...
Haven't seen it yet, but talked to a really nice lady about it this afternoon - apparently Granny's Church car. Will look at it tomorrow, but I like it a lot for my friend.
The fly in this ointment - They're asking $4k. Clearly, this just isn't even close to happening, but I'm wondering how far to stretch for this. I'm willing to get them to overpay a little if it is as cherry as claimed, but we've gotta allow for changing _all_ the rubber, no? (This buy will leave absolutely zero dollars of disposable income for them. Thus, I presume the "recon' includes belt(s), hoses, plug wires (plugs?), the tires regardless of tread, yes? ~$7-900, yes? This shouldn't have CV boots, but what about the rubber bushings in the suspension/steering system?)
Optioned to the absolute max, TMV dealer retail is 3,1 - If that's anywhere near accurate I'm worried about burying my friend in the deal. With the impending repairs how high can I bid before I'm doing them a dis-service?
Sometime you can make a deal, sometimes you can't.
Those old granny cars with low mileage never seem to work out as well as you think. My grandfather left my brother a '75 Pontiac Catalina with 10k when he died in 1981 and it was a money pit with all the dry rot.
If it was me, I would probably pass and let the guy sell it to someone less informed or sit on it for a while. They may come back to you eith a more realistic number.
I make it a policy not to offend friends with the truth. (g) Unless I am asked.
I'm pretty sure the '92s still used the old 5 digit analog odometers ... so I would have trouble believing the miles, personally. and, honestly, being clean doesn't mean a thing.
Quick supporting story: My father-in-law leases a new Grand Marquis every few years... on one of those (i believe it was an '89), he went round the bend on that odometer and back up to around 40k (in other words, 140k) .... he commutes from central jersey to brooklyn ... and the dealer didn't bat an eye at believing it only had 40k at the end of the lease.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
C'mon, if you know the individual and you know that the car was owned by his grandmother (which can largely be verified by Carfax), the chances of a rollback are pretty slim. Also, by 1992, most analog odometers were 6 digits, especially on Crown Vics that I have seem.
The real issue on this vehicle is NOT the mileage but the age of the vehicle. There is going to be some deterioration in the rubber parts and some of the maintenance has generally been deferred.
Two years back, we bought a 1988 Chevy Nova with 22k. We had NO problem believing the mileage since the guy who inherited it told us about the car a year before he sold it to us.
maybe i'm missing it, but i don't see where he said he knows the individual.
And i'm not talking about a rollback here ... just a misrepresentation of the true miles. And the only thing that Carfax can verify is when it was registered and if any accidents were reported. The only way it verifies mileage is when the car actually changes owners. so if its a one-owner car with no reported accidents, carfax will show a whole lot of nothing.
BUT, I looked on Ebay, found a '92, and it has a digital odometer, so looks like its not an issue.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I really don't know... a car like that you have to touch and feel and smell and drive... if it's really nice, buy it for a number with a "2" in front, and make sure there is some extra money in the kitty for repairs and maintenance.
It's almost impossible to give advice on something like this.... it all depends on the financial circumstances of the person. The biggest thing is that there is some sort of "Plan B"; money to fix, or we're on a bus line, or we can bike to work (that would be me) or something that makes it not a disaster when (if?) the jalopy fails.
Ah kno whut ya mean thar, but in the Atlanta area bikes & buses aren't really viable...
There's almost certainly going to be a window where a major failure would be catastrophic - I'm figuring the best I can do is try to advise them such that said window is really, really small.
JL - Edmunds says digital was an option. My money is on there being exactly two analog LX's still driveable. Hopefully, this is not one of them.
qb - are you saying that 100k left no discernible mark on the vehicle? I'd think you'd see 100k in the front bumper and/or driver's seat if nowhere else. (Esp. leather - I'd guess a good leather guy could tell you the mileage from the bolsters...)
Comments
$3500 for trade on what? $3500 is great for a 180,000 mile 1988 VW, but bad for a 2003 Chevy 4x4 truck - show us some specifics, and perhaps we can help.
I live in middle east and in this part of the world the resale value for American cars is very low but I want to buy a used Chevy Cavalier one 'cause it has dual air bags and ABS as standard. Any views about the effectiveness of ABS is appreciated.
Also, how does Cavalier fare with Malibu(both models are stopped in middle east around 2002)? These cars I can get around 40% cheaper than the Japan cars with same conditions.
Thank you
And as for used cars that would come off lease or whatever - it's an impossibility in my area to get one. They were just never sold in my market. So I have resigned myself to possibly having to buy a used car from a dealer far, far away. Just doing a check on Autotrader yielded only 4 cars in the whole country that are currently listed that I would be interested in. It's a rarity - which could be a good thing if someone wants to sell and has been noticing there's not too many interested folks.
First off, I have no experience negotiating on a used car - I can negotiate on a new car because a new car is a known commodity, but a used car is quite a different animal. Second, it seems that if I would be desperate for a car to go a long distance, a dealer could play me like a fiddle ("oh that car was sold" or "I forgot to tell you that we already gave it a $2K 'polishing' [that cost $100]" or "I thought it had leather", etc.) - I can't just walk out the door. Third, even if I could somehow nail down a dealer with a signed contract, how do I know that a car is running right - is it possible to get a dealer to sign a contract to sell me car subject to my inspection? And I'm not even considering the possibility of a private sale (although I wouldn't necessarily have a problem with that.) I would be looking at car without too much mileage, so the original warranty would cover any problems.
So how does one go about doing this? I suppose I could just drive around, staying on the road and visiting dealers until I find the right car, and then buy it, but that could get a bit expensive. I'd prefer a better way to do this.
Thanks
Seller is asking $7,500 cash.
Seller says she owe's Ford Motor Credit $8,000 and the title is still in the lender's name.
She says if I pay her $7,500, she said she'll do these:
let me take off with the car
write me a bill of sale
come up with $500 and pay off the loan and transfer the title over to me as soon as Ford Motor Credit transfers the title to her.
While the whole thing is understandable, I will not put $7,500 in her hands for something she currently doesn't have title for. I'm hoping I could find a third party agent who will take $7,500 from me, $500 from her, pay Ford Crdit, pay her and transfer me the title.
Any idea how to approach this?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
She needs to go to the lienholder with you; her with her $500.00 and you with your bank loan check for $7,500.00 and pay up and sign off together.
Or since FMC probably doesn't have a local office, you might have to mail it all off, after calling to get exact numbers, etc.
Rule 1, it all gets mailed off to the lienholder together.
2. the title goes in your name (or lienholders)
3. you get a notatized bill of sale along with the car on the day you do this.
Date: 07/25/2003
Mileage: 36,207
Source: Auto Auction
Sold at auction
in Pennsylvania
Listed as
a fleet vehicle
There's no report of an accident or anything bad to it - nothing in the report at all that says anything negative. I got a very brief inspection by a mechanic and the only bad thing he saw was a very minor oil leak, and that it looks as if the bumpers have been repainted (they look fine - just a little shade darker than the rest). Is it normal that cars are sold at actions? Should I be worried about this?
It's a 2000 accord - 39k miles ($1k - bb price). So I think it's a great deal. Some minor cosmetic damage, but nothing that bothers me.
Any help is appreciated - thanks!
Charles
Is it possible to take care of everything at the dealership? I assumed the dealership financed it through central honda finance whatever. I'd really like to have everything taken care of in a professional way with everything done at the same time - but it seems so clumsy right now! The seller seems like a good guy, but I'm mostly worried it might take him forever to do his end. I'm moving cross country in a few weeks, and I want the lien off the title before I go!
I'm a first time car buyer - and this all seems like an enormous amount of money to me - so I'm kinda freaking out. Thanks for any advice!
-Jim
ps. Once the title is signed over to me - am I legally responsible for the remaining $2k, or will the financing company still go after the original seller if anything happens?
Seller is asking $7,500 cash.
Seller says she owe's Ford Motor Credit $8,000 and the title is still in the lender's name.
She says if I pay her $7,500, she said she'll do these:
let me take off with the car
write me a bill of sale
come up with $500 and pay off the loan and transfer the title over to me as soon as Ford Motor Credit transfers the title to her.
While the whole thing is understandable, I will not put $7,500 in her hands for something she currently doesn't have title for. I'm hoping I could find a third party agent who will take $7,500 from me, $500 from her, pay Ford Crdit, pay her and transfer me the title.
Any idea how to approach this?
My girlfriend just sold her Focus that way. She owed $8,000, the buyer agreed to buy at $7,000. The buyer made the check to FMC, she made her check to FMC, sent it all in together. Both the buyer and seller signed the purchase agreemet with all the legal stuff, except notarization. A week later she had the title, gave it to the new owner. The new owner went to DMV got the plates and picked up the car on Monday. No problems. If you don't trust the seller enough to go with the transaction, how can you trust them that the mileage is true, and the car has not been abused? How can they trust you that you are giving them a legitimate check, Certified checks are one of the easierst things to fabricate. I have about 20 of them sitting from the Nigerian scammers from Craigslist.org, it is quite a collection.
Nice cars but a lot of people buy european cars expecting Honda or Chevy expenses and this isn't the case.
Iam looking to buy a used car in the range of the most being $18,000, something in the 01,02,03 years. I really like the Lincoln LS and the Jaguar Xtype. The reason for the post is what other cars compare to these with price and as smooth as those two mentioned. He is my situation, just grad from U of Arizona. Living in Chicago, moving back to AZ at end of summer. 23 yrs old, what would you guys buy in my situation. All responses very helpful, thanks alot ya'll, hope all is well.
Anyway, it's pretty much just booking as to how the show the numbers. No diff. to you if they show 10K trade/20K new, or 15k/25k. You still have to pony up the 10K differnece.
One caveat, if you are in a state that charges tax on the price of the new car (not just the difference), then you do care. If it means that much to you, once you reach a deal, ask them to write it up differently.
this actually happened to me once. I traded in a van on a new one, and made the deal based on a nice discount and good trade offer. When they did the paperwork, they showed the new car at MSRP, and inflated the value of the trade. I'm sure it meant something to them, but I didn't care, since it cost me nada.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
No delivery -- no deal ..................
Terry.
But, if you gave them a check for a deposit, call the bank first thing in the morning and put a stop payment on it.. No matter what they say...
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Just tell them you want to unwind the deal and be nice but firm about it.
If they ask you to pay for the loaner, just pay it.
Advise...next time make SURE you are comfortable with the deal to avoid the buyer's remorse.
Like someone said before ... no delivery -- no deal .. the Playhouse 90 stuff is if for MTV .....
Terry.
James
I really like digging out little $1$1,5 deals on used cars, 89 Aerostar for $1000 til friend wrecked it, 89 NPR delivery truck that's torquing the neighbors for $1500 - still going strong but had to drive if from Rhode Island to Georgia.
So, when my friend needs a beater to get them through the next year or two, I think it might be fun, esp with a $3k budget. Start looking around and it seems like everyone in the universe wants $10,999 for their Elantra with ONLY 200k on the clock.
I hit some folks in-and-around 1-1,5 on 92 Crown Vickies this afternoon and you'd think I assaulted their sister. I'm looking at a 97 w/100k that they're starting at 5 thousand.
Any suggestions on a solid daily driver in the $3-5 area that's actually available in the market? Only constraints are "4 doors and AC". Oh, and they despised their Corolla for being too small.
TIA,
-Greg
I've looked at dozens of cars in the last five decade, and they all were in "excellent" condition. That's the first problem with the pricing guides; everyone reads them, nobody understands them, and so you're $1-2k off from the get-go. No such thing as an 80k car in "excellent" condition. The mileage adjustments aren't big enough, so sometimes it works out when the don't add enough for low miles... when it's high miles, duck & cover.
The only time when the price was right was from a friend, neighbor, coworker, someone who didn't want to mess with the private sale really and wanted it over with quickly.
I find that it takes a lot of time to find something decent for around $2, and it takes a little luck. When you get it, it's sweet. My advice to people, and I recently followed it, is to scrape together $6 or so and find a nice 2000-2002 car, truck, or minivan. At that price point, people typically want the money pretty badly, as opposed to the $1,200 range, where it usually isn't that big a deal. And if it is, chances are the car wasn't maintained due to lack of funds.
It was only a decade ago that the price guides really became popular, and I believe it has made things worse, on the whole. I've come to the point where I'd rather go to a good used-car lot... at least I'm dealing with people who know what stuff is worth.
It's a jungle out there.
-Mathias
One of my buddies at worl had a '93 Crown Vic in very good condition, all leather with 105k miles. He wanted a small SUV so he offered me the car. I asked him what he wanted figuring that if I did not buy it, I had a couple of people in mind that might be interested. He wanted $5k. And I told him that he could have $5 is the car came with JLo in the front seat. $2k tops although he could weasel another 500 as the car was in great shape whereas my beater looks like it collided with a Starbucks truck.
We agrees to disagree and he kept the car. And the engine died at 120k and he dumped the car. I asked him why he didn't dump another reman in the car for under $2k but he insisted on buying another used Crown Vic. I told him his mechanic got a good deal.
I ***HATE*** dealing with private owners, period. To most car dealers, a vehicle is a hunk of metal to move at the right price. Some private buyers want a king's ransom for a car that is just worn out.
Fortunately, there are a million cars for sale in Alamo country ...
Now they **know** what their trade is worth! they scan the various guides until they find the one that shows the higest possible price. Of course, they click on the "excellent" box to arrive at their number.
But, the trade is strictly a wholesale piece...we don't want it. It's a 1996 Chrysler Van with 120,000 "all highway" miles. It has "small" dent in one of the doors that "can be pushed out". the A/C is dead but, it "just needs a charge" ect...
" You guys can buy tires for wholesale" that kind of a thing.
I only wish those guides would buy these cars for what they tell people they are "worth"!
Oh, and that Ford didn't have an "ALL leather" interior. You would be surprised just how little leather there really is. Usually just the seating surfaces.
It's like that in the boat biz, but worse ....
Did you ever wonder when you drive by a "big" boat dealer, that they have "very few" trades ... I mean they will have a few here and there, but 90%+ are on broker sale and there's a reason for it .... look at the BUC book or the Nada, it's psychotic ...
Most boats are in the "books" for more than they paid for them new - and were not talking about baby dolls here, were talking about boats that are 3/4 years old, they have 400 hard hours, the macerators were last cleaned in 02, they've hit every dock and palm tree between Boston and Marco Island and the interior and the canvas looks like a Taliban training camp ..
I mean we're talking $1,500 in service (if your lucky) another $800/$900 in Fiberglass work (hopefully) and another $700+ in canvas ... oh yeah, and let's not forget those 400 hours, thats like 80,000 miles in a 4 year old car, so lets knock off another $9,000, at least .... and they want "How Much" ..?!? ..l.o.l...
"yeah, but the book says" ... is there any pages in the book that you can rip out and they will send you that kinda money for it.? ..... :shades:
Terry.
I have come across a 2002 Trailblazer LT.. Leather seats, Fully Loaded etc with only 18000 original miles on it. An old lady is selling it as it used to be her deceased husbands car. Its been garaged for over 2 years and has only been used a few times... Its absolutely like brand new... Problem is im not sure what to offer for it... We were thinking of 15000... It might even have some warranty left on it...Does this sound like a good deal??
2wd .... 4wd ....? Ext .........?
Terry.
I recently ran into a 02 chevy S10 work truck w/ long bed, V6, AM/FM radio and A/C.
The truck has some small dents, nothing big, the interior is in good shape and the truck bed is average. The truck is selling for $3900 with 240K on the odometer, I was wondering how much useful life can a truck have with that many miles??
Volvo, Yota, Chevy .. it makes no difference ... can we spell - PASS ........
Terry.
Got a nibble on a stretch - 92 'Vickie, white, 48k miles (as in "less than a half century"), auto, loaded to the gills...
Haven't seen it yet, but talked to a really nice lady about it this afternoon - apparently Granny's Church car. Will look at it tomorrow, but I like it a lot for my friend.
The fly in this ointment - They're asking $4k. Clearly, this just isn't even close to happening, but I'm wondering how far to stretch for this. I'm willing to get them to overpay a little if it is as cherry as claimed, but we've gotta allow for changing _all_ the rubber, no? (This buy will leave absolutely zero dollars of disposable income for them. Thus, I presume the "recon' includes belt(s), hoses, plug wires (plugs?), the tires regardless of tread, yes? ~$7-900, yes? This shouldn't have CV boots, but what about the rubber bushings in the suspension/steering system?)
Optioned to the absolute max, TMV dealer retail is 3,1 - If that's anywhere near accurate I'm worried about burying my friend in the deal. With the impending repairs how high can I bid before I'm doing them a dis-service?
TIA,
-Greg
Those old granny cars with low mileage never seem to work out as well as you think. My grandfather left my brother a '75 Pontiac Catalina with 10k when he died in 1981 and it was a money pit with all the dry rot.
If it was me, I would probably pass and let the guy sell it to someone less informed or sit on it for a while. They may come back to you eith a more realistic number.
I make it a policy not to offend friends with the truth. (g) Unless I am asked.
Quick supporting story:
My father-in-law leases a new Grand Marquis every few years... on one of those (i believe it was an '89), he went round the bend on that odometer and back up to around 40k (in other words, 140k) .... he commutes from central jersey to brooklyn ... and the dealer didn't bat an eye at believing it only had 40k at the end of the lease.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The real issue on this vehicle is NOT the mileage but the age of the vehicle. There is going to be some deterioration in the rubber parts and some of the maintenance has generally been deferred.
Two years back, we bought a 1988 Chevy Nova with 22k. We had NO problem believing the mileage since the guy who inherited it told us about the car a year before he sold it to us.
And i'm not talking about a rollback here ... just a misrepresentation of the true miles. And the only thing that Carfax can verify is when it was registered and if any accidents were reported. The only way it verifies mileage is when the car actually changes owners. so if its a one-owner car with no reported accidents, carfax will show a whole lot of nothing.
BUT, I looked on Ebay, found a '92, and it has a digital odometer, so looks like its not an issue.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
It's almost impossible to give advice on something like this.... it all depends on the financial circumstances of the person. The biggest thing is that there is some sort of "Plan B"; money to fix, or we're on a bus line, or we can bike to work (that would be me) or something that makes it not a disaster when (if?) the jalopy fails.
Good luck,
-Mathias
Ah kno whut ya mean thar, but in the Atlanta area bikes & buses aren't really viable...
There's almost certainly going to be a window where a major failure would be catastrophic - I'm figuring the best I can do is try to advise them such that said window is really, really small.
JL - Edmunds says digital was an option. My money is on there being exactly two analog LX's still driveable. Hopefully, this is not one of them.
qb - are you saying that 100k left no discernible mark on the vehicle? I'd think you'd see 100k in the front bumper and/or driver's seat if nowhere else. (Esp. leather - I'd guess a good leather guy could tell you the mileage from the bolsters...)
-G