Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
1. The car now has about 4800kms on it and the problem started around 4000 kms.
2. The shift from 1st to 2nd can provide quite a kick at about 18 to 20 km/hr.
3. After about 5 shifting sequences the shift has smoothed out in that after each sequence the kick is diminished.
4. The problem is a "sometimes" event and the times that it happens is only after the car has been sitting for quite a few hours.
5. Speaking with the dealer I was left with an unsatisfactory explanation that the problem is a heat sensor in the transmission which in colder weather is slow to react resulting in the jerk ... which I don't buy for a second.
6. Like you I can see no good of this problem and expect a call to road side assistance in the future.
The cure is in the works however according to some Mazda forums. There is supposed to be a bulletin out soon explaining an PCM update which is a "fix". The update procedure is supposed to take 2 hours, I've read.
Unlike so many others that besides the transmission problem there is a complaint with the A/C in the car. I'm sorry to mention it but that I'm one of the few who find the system adequate. Reading A/C problems before picking up the car I questioned the dealer about it. The standard dealer answer - "hadn't heard of that problem..."
Hope the update, TSB, recall or whatever on the tranny comes through soon !!!
Mike
I should hope that within a couple of weeks we are all still thrilled with the new car and this is no doubt why the survey follows so soon. Like you said, the survey should follow in no sooner than 6 months !
Now we know what most buttons, switches do and found all the "neat " things. Some of us have damaged a rocker panel and find how terribly expensive plastic can be ($531 CDN $). We know that transmission has problems, the brakes can be squeaky, and in many cases the A/C is inadequate.
We could do a job on a survey now - eh? !!
Mike
Could someone direct me to a thread or source for less expensive rocker panel (aka: side step moulding). The dealer list puts the plastic part as a moulding and lists it for $531.21 + $38 for the required 15 mounting clips. (Canadian $$$). I had a run in with a high (hidden - of course) curb at a Tim Horton's coffee shop drive thru. A body shop repair will run $330 but won't be the same ... The sign they had said Keep Right -- should have said Keep Far Right !
Thanks,
Mike
Mine has had the problem off and on for about 1 1/2 years - Mazda (dealer and the customer service 800 number) tell me that they have never heard about any problems - of course they said the same thing about the GRINDING brakes - thumping front suspension and worthless AC - until Mazda came out with a TSB -
I guess Mazda has more problems than they do solutions.
Funny you say that ... the a/c units in the 6 and the 3 are built by the same company.
Meade
Just a thought since the problem with the transmissions vanish in about 5 minutes of starting out from a cold start. Perhaps we all zoom zoom out the driveway or whatever before the car is ready to. I must try this for a while and see if there is a difference because I'm the start and go type - especially at the gas prices now.
(If the dealers say this is the problem, remember - you know where you saw it first.)
Mike
Not sure what this has to do with anything -
It just tells me that Mazda could have just put the AC from the Mazda6 into the Mazda3 and had a system that really cools things off - but choose to replace the system - so they could what? Save $10 per car?
Mazda MUST take responsibility for the cars they manufacture - it does not matter if they got the parts from some other company - doesn't every car company buy parts - even whole assemblies from outside suppliers?
Why is who manufactured the system so important? You have posted it several times - it must mean something (to you) -
http://www.lemonlawamerica.com/state_laws/
Keep all your service records, and don't drag you feet in this, as lemon laws have time limits. Since what you described sounds like it is a safety-related problem, NHTSA might be interested. You can file a complaint here:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/ivoq/
or by phone. Like it states on the NHTSA web site:
"If a safety-related defect exists in a motor vehicle or item of motor vehicle equipment, the manufacturer must fix it at no cost to the owner. Your complaint is the first step in the process."
The Mazda 3 is smaller in volume (cabin, esp.) than the Mazda 6 by about 10% (hey these are guesses; I know I could probably figure out the correct %, but this is just a hypothetical). Now, let's take the evap (your favorite in fault) of either vehicle: Mazda 3 evap is made smaller than the Mazda 6 (e.g. 10%; I don't know this to be true, but could be). For hahas, let's say the Mazda 6 has a lighter color interior vs. the Mazda 3's dark interior (hey, doesn't one of the el cheapo Mazda 3i come with lighter beige interior? dash?). Logically, I already see a problem.
Vehicle equipment is important for all of us. I rather have a oversized a/c unit or any other unit, if you will, rather than an undersized unit. Someone had mentioned that the evap may have grown in size for '06 models; probably just speculation. I believe you had stated that there didn't seem to be enough room to increase the size of the evap in the 3. Kind of sounded hopeless for the Mazda 3. But I think that was more of an attitude opinion than a realistic one.
There is so much room between the firewall and the engine - enough to fit a V-6 or even a small V-8 (think Yamaha V-8 from the Taurus SHO now to be found the the Volvo XC-90). The firewall could easily be carved into or out of to make room for larger, more heavy duty equipment. At the same time, my belief is that items or units could probably be shuffled around a bit resulting in the increase of available space for more or larger equipment, without fussing with the firewall.
She had the car less than a month when the CEL light came on. It probably flashed a “gas cap” code, which was retrieved by the mechanic. I don’t think the mechanic had a psychic on staff that drummed up the error in a card. The mechanic probably couldn’t get the cap to close right, so it was replaced. Try driving with your gas cap off or loosely attached and see if your car doesn’t flashe a code.
NOW, LESS THAN 12,000 MILES she has an idle issue, which could very well be the fuel pump and/or spark plugs.
Who knows, MAYBE A YEAR FROM NOW (if she still has the vehicle), some gas attendant may not tighten up the gas cap correctly after fueling and the CEL may light up AGAIN (almost happened to me yesterday, but he gave it another shot after some personal hesitation).
So far, her mechanic has lived up to the task. But they still have a chance to prove he or she is an idiot.
Our Automatic 5 door with the black cloth interior is cooled perfectly in both City and Interstate driving
The temperatures and Humidity in our area are certainly higher than those in Canada and the Northeast, which would certainly qualify this area as a worst case scenario.
The service we have received, in two states from 3 dealers, has been outstanding.
I am extremely critical of Manufacturer and Dealer service performance-take a look at my 350 Z posts on the forums- but Mazda is definitely the best Dealer/ Manufacturer network I have dealt with, and immediately issues voluntary recalls and performs updates on any problems owners encounter.
The mechanic can't fix what isn't broken. Actually, the mechanic could, but it would be 'pro bono' since I don't see the owner paying for the work. BTW - did a CEL flash for the fuel pump or was the car seriously acting up (and stalling)?
BTW - don't forget it was your opinion that a larger evap would not fit in the 3. However you concluded that is beyond me, but it leeds me to believe you had no hope that the a/c in a Mazda 3 could ever be anything but junk. I presume most if not all people on these forums know more about autos than I do; that is, until they prove me wrong.
On the other hand, I would pay 10 times that much to have the a/c removed from the vehicle to reduce weight, gain power, and improve mpg (though, the interior would need to lighten up quite a bit). Ditto on the power steering - electrical, hydraulic, or any other kind (I'll take all the workout I can get these days). Radio - can do without that to.
Now, where is my six speed MT, MAZDA???
Thank you!
Shifty the Host
Perhaps there was a good reason to modifiy the a/c unit going from one vehicle into another. But we still don't know if there was a mod., do we?
Thanks, Daryl
1. Going to Tirerack.com and buying a new set of wheels and winter tires and performing the self-installation myself. What equipment would I need and what would you guys suggest or advise that you would give.
2. Going to maybe my local sullivan tire or goodyear shop and have them give me a set of wheels and winter tires and let them do the installation.
3. Going to the same, but just simply purchase the tires and have them switch out the OEM tires with the new winter tires and store the OEMs at my home till the Spring.
I know the time to buy winter tires is now and I better get it done soon before the major winter nor'easter hits Boston, but I can't seem to find much info. about switching tires besides changing flats and all. Any help would be appreciated.
Is this an Edmunds problem or does my PC have a format problem -
http://www.jdpower.com/cc/auto/ratings/vehicles/FindJdAwards.jsp
Overall Quality (2005 Mazda3) is 2/5 stars
Initial Quality Ratings 2005 3
Mechanical Quality 2/5
Feature & Accessory Quality 5/5
Body & Interior Quality 3/5
Overall Quality 2/5
Also, others have reported better results with their A/C if they have a cabin filter installed. I am trying to get one installed this weekend when I take my M3 in for servicing since mine doesnt come with a cabin filter.
And personally, I feel dealers and manufactures should be fined for lying to their customers. Denying that there is no problem and shortly thereafter, admitting to it by issuing service bulletins.
I dont think the increased evap size in the 06 is speculation. A dealer did mention it. But, only time will tell; however, as mentioned in a previous post of mine. In Taiwan (I have three different M3s as references) their AC is fine. In fact, too cold. Without telling the family members what to look for, I have no way of knowing the size of their evap. I think a larger evap in the 04 and 05 M3's is definitely do-able. And if Mazda pisses off the consumers in Taiwan, Mazda will surely suffer a huge loss as in Taiwan they have access to vehicles that are not available in North America. There is definitely more options for consumers over there. I think that North America isn't a large enough of a pie for Mazda to concern itself with, hence the problems that we have.
Someone mentioned Mazda and about the logic of saving $10 in parts or something. I guess from a manufacturing stand-point, this $10 adds up. Take my VW TDI. VW had a super cheap LCD odometer. I couldn't believe how cheap it was. Manufacturers will do almost anything to save a buck or too.
I think my next car will be a Honda Civic or Acura. Honda cares about their customers.
On the topic of Overall ratings there are actually two: Overall Quality and Overall Appeal.
As you noted the overall quality is 2 out of 5 stars (i.e. "the rest"). What is useful to remember is the definition of Overall Quality which according to JD Power is
Taken from the Initial Quality Study (IQS), which looks at owner-reported problems in the first 90 days of ownership, this score is based on the Mechanical, Feature & Accessory, and Body and Interior problems reported by vehicle owners.
On the other hand, the Mazda3 rates 4 out of 5 (i.e. "better than most") for Overall Appeal. JD Power defines this as "Taken from the most recent Automotive Performance, Execution and Layout Study (APEAL) study, which looks at the features that consumers like and dislike about their vehicles, this score is based on how consumers rated the overall appeal of their vehicle. The APEAL study is published in August of each year.
Thanks, Daryl
http://www.lemonlaw.com/
They found 2 issues:
1. Purge S Valve
2. Leak Detection System
There’s a TSB on the Purge S Valve. Knew this going in, but I was convinced it was the gas cap. This one particular individual (gas attendant) seemed to not have tightened my gas cap correctly a couple of days before (10/26) the engine light flashed. He hesitated after installing the gas cap, but he did a double take on it and gave it another effort. I still wasn’t convinced, but I decided to look at it when I got to work. Thirty miles later and I forgot; I have a bad habit of forgetting things which is probably why I live on Memory Lane (really, I do). This individual is approx. 45 years old, but is fairly new at this station that I’ve been going to in the last 6 years (1 mile from home and good price). He’s a stickler for OBEYING NEW JERSEY LAW. I think New Jersey and Oregon are the only states remaining where only the employees are permitted to pump gas and NO ONE ELSE. I wish it had only been the “Leak Detection System” so I could make a stink about it to him and his boss. I have no problem pumping my own gas in the state of New Jersey. But this guy reads me the riot act every time he’s on the job.
Suggestions.
BTW – The Purge S Valve has something to do with the engine running too lean or too rich. There are 2 codes, but which code is for lean and which for rich? Or should I just ask the service people? And would this be affected by the slow evaporation of gasoline (fumes) not reaching the engine?
You can check it out in the new BLOG section and add your comments too if you wish:
http://blogs.edmunds.com/.ee8bcc5
The Most Wanted List is in the Blog called "Straightline". Have a look!
Shifty the Host
What types of reliability problems? Similar to those on the “Probs” thread; AC, rear brakes (on 04) or different?
I was very surprised by the quality and reliability of my 3 though I only have 3K miles on it now.
I’m also VERY impressed with the build quality of my 3. When I purchased an 03 Accord I had about 12 items to address on my first visit, on my 3 I have absolutely none. No squeaks, rattles, misalignments, electrical glitches, nothing. When I got rid of my 03 Accord I still had water stains in my headliner that never got fixed from 3K – 41K it was put off, or forgotten, or rescheduled.
Outside of a BMW 3 series, I haven’t driven a car that felt so solid; like it was constructed out of one large piece.
It’s surprising to hear others have different experiences, perhaps I just got lucky.
I actually like the Mazda more than the Civic yet personal opinion leads me toward the Civic since I've owned Hondas in the past....decisions...decisions
1. The hard shifting (automatic) when cold from 1st to 2nd. Took Mazda almost a year to come up with a software fix for that. This was NOT a nuisance but a definite concern. Dunno what damage my tranny has as a result
2. Rear brakes (noisey and clunking). TSB on that.
3. Console Trim panel (loose)
4. Poor A/C
5. Door rattle
6. Window regulator and noisey operating of power windows (TSB on that one)
7. Wiper Blades defective after only 6000 km
8. Trunk latch came apart (not by forcing)
I don't have 10 yet on my list, but I am sure I will ;-)
Take comfort though, the 2006's HAVE a better or different A/C. I am hearing more and more people test driving the 2005 and 2006's and they are saying the A/C is great in the 06's but the [non-permissible content removed] in the 05's that they have tested!
I owned a 2002 Jetta TDi and my gf owns a 2000. The Jetta is built in many ways better than the Mazda, but worse in others.
That's just my .02, but if JDP rates it poor, and just about every other source rates it well.....
Also, it is unfair to use ratings/reliability from a 2004 model. First model year ALWAYS has issues, no matter who the manufacturer.
The question is - what does the manufacturer do to solve the problems that come up with a first year model?
Do they jump on the issue right away - let the customer with the problem know they are working on a solution - and then fix the problem in a reasonable amount of time - (That is what Toyota, Honda & EVEN CRUMMY OLD GM did when I had problems with a first year model)
Or do they take the MAZDA route- which is tell the customer its normal - maybe come out with a fix in a year or so.
Take my grinding brakes - first Mazda says its normal - then they come out with a TSB to fix the grinding - so it must be a problem - the grinding goes away for a few weeks but then returns - now its considered normal again - 1 1/2 years later - Mazda has a new TSB - so it must now be considered a problem again. (I plan on trying to get the dealer to do this TSB next week when I get my oil changed)
Its not just the car - its the service after the sale that is important. This is where Mazda falls short -
I like to buy new models - have done so many times - have always had some level of bugs - a rattle / a clunk some minor issue - all have been fixed - only with Mazda am I still waiting almost 2 years after purchase to get the first year model issues fixed.