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Comments
The problem with there being no support under an area of the rear carpet is that every time someone gets out of the back seat the non-supported area is exactly where they put their foot when exiting the vehicle. Pushing the carpet into this 1" deep void causes the carpet to flex and pushes the floor mat up under the seat. :confuse:
If it's supposed to be that way - it's a ridiculous design. I just can't believe there's not supposed to be something rigid under the carpet there.
If someone could please just check their car and see if it is the same way I'd really appreciate it. If it is, I've got to come up with a solution - maybe velcro strips on the bottom of the floor mats to keep them from moving around so much.
My concern is that the dealer told me that the 3s come with a blended synthetic oil in them. Knowing that synthetics are not good for engine break-in, should I let this oil go longer before the change or go on and do the 1000 mile change?
When I'm in the passenger seat, it definitely moves further back than the driver's.
Looks like this is an "undocumented feature". NOt something I would ever think to check in a sales scenario. Who would expect that the carpets aren't resting on the floor pan?
A bigger concern for me than the floor mats moving would be someone's foot punching through the carpet into the void below it.
Velcro sticks like crazy to the carpet - so I figured I'd apply some of the "hook" portion of the Velcro to the bottom of the mats and it would keep them from sliding around. No double sided tape I've found though will stick to the bottom of the mats so I'm not sure how to adhere the Velcro strips to the mats... superglue maybe?
I'm not thinking of moving to full syn yet. I was told the motor came factory-filled with a syn blend which made me wonder if the motor will take longer to break in properly on the first batch of oil. If so, then I was wondering about whether I should go on and change the oil now at 1000 miles or wait until 3000 or even a full 5000 to purge out the factory-filled oil.
From what I have read the A/C units in the 06 are the same as the ones in the 05. How long was your compressor cycle? Mine 5 seconds and probably due to the cooler outside temp, 50F compared to your 70F
My dealer told me that there was no specific advise from Mazda on the question. It was a matter of personal taste - but that many people do and he sees nothing wrong with it. It certainly can't hurt.
thank you for this information. is this the one you ordered? I wanted to make sure we look at the same thing. I hope it is OK to put a link here.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NOKYA-SILVER-RACING-PEDALS-MANUAL-MT-UNIVERSAL-TY- PE-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33700QQitemZ8049970808QQrdZ1
do you have atx or mtx? i measured my pedals especially gas seems shorter than Nokya's. How did you do the installation? Also I am curios to know how you managed the foot rest section.
Thank you very much
The Owner's manual implies that the two should function seperately:
"With the AUTO or fan control dial ON, press the A/C switch to select the air conditioning (cooling/dehumidifying functions) on or off."
However, turning off the A/C turns off the Auto mode on the climate control.
I would expect that when it is cold outside and I set a higher cabin temperature that the Auto system would be on but the A/C indicator would be off or could be turned off without turning off the Auto mode.
This is the first car I've had with automatic wipers, lights, and climate control. It all takes a bit of getting used to. I think I finally have most of the navigation system figured out though... very cool stuff.
I've only got 600 miles on it but I just love the car! I can tell already that the Velocity Red is going to be a b**ch to keep clean though.
Does your passenger seat go back further on its track than the driver's seat?
Is there a way of making the driver's seat go back further?
Thanks!
05-Sedan-2.3 Canada
I noticed yesterday that my driver's seat didn't spring forward when I pulled the lever to do that. Looked like the handle there was broken (went up and down kinda wierd). It magically started working again today. Told my wife about it and she said that it seemed that her side didn't spring forward to well when she pulled her lever either. I swear we're not that fat.
Am I being too sensitive here, or has anyone else had a problem like this?
The reason has more to do with the length of piston travel. At low RPM the piston does not go up or down as far as it does at high RPM. Although the difference is very small it is a good idea to not have all of your first miles at the exact same RPM - this gives the piston a chance to travel across its whole range of travel during break in.
I think the only time it would really be a problem is if you bought a new car and then went right out and drove several hundred miles down the freeway with the cruise control set at 60 MPH (or whatever). This of course could be the case if you buy the car from a dealership that is a few hundred miles from your home. But is not much of an issue for most people.
I do think it is a good idea to spend some of your break in miles at highway speeds - rather than all city driving.
I haven't talked to the dealer though, I will in the next month or so and will post the answer here.
Am I doing something wrong? Every other CD player in the world, when you're in random mode, takes you to some kind of next random track...
I'm just glad to know that: A) My car isn't broken and I'm not crazy.
I am looking at a few different tires as I found the OE Toyo Tires to hydroplane during rain. The models I am cosidering are:
Dunlop SP Sports
Kumho Ecsta's
and
Yokohama Avid's
Anyone have any thoughts on these?
I have looked at Tirerack dot com and the reviews are all over the map. I want something that looks cool, and delivers good performance.
Thanks.
I've searched the forum and haven't found this problem, so here goes: my wife's Mazda3 squeaks.
Specifically, it emits an intermittent squeaking (imagine an old school speedo cable squeaking, or a belt squeaking). The squeaking goes away when the accelerator is pressed, but returns when released.
It is uncorrelated with HVAC operation or vehicle speed. It sounds like it's coming from the speedo/tach area. The dealer is mystified but sympathetic. (BTW, in Colorado Springs, go to Bob Penkhus NORTH. Avoid BP Motor City at all costs.)
Any ideas on how we can get rid of the mouse in the dash?
cheers,
--Seth
I had a similar issue with my '05 Mazda3. I heard an intermittent squeak from the gauge cluster area that would go away only when I pressed down on the top of the dash shroud that covers the cluster. I had my Mazda dealer investigate the problem. They removed the gauge cluster shroud and the cluster itself, and applied foam tape to the top of the cluster and the inside of the shroud. I think the issue has been resolved. Since the repair I have put 3,000 miles of rough road driving on the car and no longer hear the squeak.
Best of luck with your issue. I know how irritating rattles and squeaks can be -- my Mazda's interior is full of them.
-- Gant
I have a 2006 Mazda 3 S Grand Touring and I just recently replaced the stock stereo. After replacing it, I noticed the temperature went to Celsius. So After reading these posts, I found out how to change the Ambient Temperature back.
Now the Ambient Temperature is Fahrenheit and the Automatic Climate Control is Celsius. When I have the stock radio in, it changes back to Fahrenheit.
I tried leaving the power on and just swapping the radios to keep the temperature reading at Fahrenheit. It worked at first, but after turning the car off and back on, it went back to Celsius. Does anyone know if there is a way to fix this? Or am I stuck setting my A/C in Celsius and reading my Ambient Temperature in Fahrenheit?
Once the cover is off the plugs are right on top - there is a nut/stud that holds the spark plug boot in place on each plug - once this is removed all 4 plugs are easy to get to -
Very minor - the left nut/stud that holds the plug boot in place has a white plastic clip over the threads - this clip holds a wire harness in place - it must be removed before you can get to the nut/stud - it just pops right off -
You will need a spark plug socket (I can't recall what size but you use your new plug to determine that you have the right size before you start taking things apart) - plus an extension - because the plug is a few inches down (like inside a well).
Good Luck!
The car is superb in every other way; it would be nice to have the A/C actually functional.