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Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
As far as the filters are concerned, I've stuck to the manufacturer's OEM and have had my cars serviced at the dealership, at least for many years. I used to change oil myself, but I got away from it maybe 15 years ago. On the older cars there weren't plastic shields to take off and put back on, and the filters were pretty accessible - most cars now are kind of a pain and my time is more valuable too.
Getting cooler here in Minnesota, won't be long before I have to put the winter wheels & tires on...used to do this myself too!
Good Luck.
Dealer Analysis
Scanned E.G.I. and commented too lean at idle bank one. Checked for vacuum leaks, checked sensors - all ok. Fuel trims -20.37 (short term) tapped on purge valve and got reaction from motor. Replaced purge valve, performed drive cycle test and cleared codes.
What is a purge valve, how much does it cost and can anybody explain in simple terms what the dealer analysis means?
I can't remember if this how to was for the protege5 or Mazda3? We have both -- anybody have this link?
Appreciate it!
No, there isn't (at least not on mine).
Appreciate it,
I went back to the Mazda dealer that installed them, and the head technician said that the gap is supposed to be there (first time I heard that).
Anyone out there have any comments, suggestions, or data that might correct my misinformation? Thanks!
chuckjr1
Even the newer MazdaSpeed 3's have the 3rd gear problem. It is indicative of the whole model line and the related European Focus. :lemon:
I'm going back to Audi.
I'm trading my Mazda in for one of the more reliable Audi A4 turbo quattros.
Several of my friends and relatives own one these.
Some of you used Mobil I 5W-30. What made you decide to use the higher grade?
That is discouraging to read about the purge valve problems you're having. We have around 28,000 on our '07 and so far so good with this and everything else.
I took my 2005 Mazda 3 hatch for regular oil service ( odometer 44,000 miles) to a local Mazda dealer and they came back to me with 1 "Must do" & 2 "Recommended" services. The "Must do" service was changing the rear brakes, rotors and pads costing around C$500, "recommended" were changing Air filter and Cabin filter. My lease on the car is ending in another 4 months ( I drive app. 800 miles a month ). Before I took the car in for the service, I never felt any decrease in brake performance. Although I dont doubt the integrity of the dealer, my question is: are there any telltale signs for brake fade? I am using the car mostly in cities, I dont drive or brake aggressively, how many miles the original brakes last? Any replies will be appreciated.
Just for info, I asked the dealer to just do the oil service for now and came out without opting for any of the extra services.
Thanks.
Leo
I didn't think Mazda3's had Cabin Filters? Where is this?
Thanks for the info. I too feel the price quoted to me is way too high. And, I will also check with the dealer if the quote given to me is including rotors or not.
Ask the dealership if they will resurface the rotors or replace them with new ones? Also, if they are replacing the rotors, are they using OEM or aftermarket parts? Then call an independent garage and ask them for a quote.
I paid under C$800 (before tax) to have my Mazda dealership to replace all 4 rotors and pads on my Protege5 last year. They beat the price quoted by an independent garage.
Resurfacing modern rotors is a short term solution as the rotors will likely need to be replaced shortly thereafter.
Amen to that. There's barely enough metal to turn them once. They're so prone to heating up and warping it's almost not worth doing at times. :sick:
I have the GT with the on board computer info button.
There are mobile repair shops that go from dealer to dealer and they can often fill the dent with some toxic plastic goop and repaint it with an air brush, and that would be half as much or less and will look good---for a while only, however, maybe a couple of years. Your dealer might suggest this option if you are trying to save money or not make a claim on insurance. I've done it both ways, and been satisfied in both instances. The quickie repair was not perfect, so if you are fussy-fussy in terms of little specks or overspray or slight variations in texture, etc., then don't go there.
Turn key and nothing, no crank, no noise, nothing. Acts like battery is dead. But after I remove the metal ring around the key, it starts instantly.
Dealer says they have to replicate problem and of course it never does it then.
I replaced the ring with a rubber band in order to attach the remote, but that didn't help. Seems as if I have to detach everything and just use the key for it to start.
No big deal now that I know how to deal with it, but no one seems to figure out why it's happening and I seem to have the only M3 with this problem!
Any ideas?
I just turned on my wipers to clear some ice and the driver's side arm doesn't move! The passenger side works fine but apparently the ice and snow may have stopped the other one from moving. It is free to move but it doesn't under it's own power. It seems to me that the linkage may have come loose or something. Does anyone know what the linkage looks like and more importantly how easy is it to access it to diagnose the problem? I really appreciate any help you can offer! Thanks!
Bob Kremer
Best regards,
Shipo
Is there anyone else who has been experiencing this same issue, and is there a diagnosis to what it is? I really don't want to go back to the dealer and get charged a half hours labor if nothing is actually wrong.
Join the club; my 2007 Mazdaspeed3 had the same symptoms at 25000 miles. It was a bad LF strut- which ended up causing me to miss several track days at Watkins Glen :mad:
And just 1000 miles later the turbo seals went south...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Have someone else drive please as you investigate as not to steer off the road.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
If you get your fixed and or figure out what the TSB # is please let us know.
Thx.
I am wonders what you guys think, should i go ahead and buy this car. It is in excellent conditions engine, body and structure. I am wondering what to expect from a car with this miles on. I know these car can go over 200,000 miles with proper car and maintenance.
HELP !!!!!!!!!!!
2004 was the first year of the Mazda3 and I believe there were some issues. You may want to check Consumer Reports Used Vehicles ratings to see what the areas of concern were. In any case, I would have your local mechanic check the car out to ensure that everything is fine.
Best of luck!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport 2020 C43 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive