My 04 LS Maxx suffers from #3...rattle or clunk that sounds like it's coming from the foot well. Every minor bump or defect in the road causes it. What is the fix? What is causing the problem? I'll wait a while to take it in. I also have a horrific rattling that seems to be coming inside the passenger side door pillar (between front and rear door). So, I'll just accumulate a list of things before I drop it off because I'll have to get a rental car. GM will pay for the rental, but not all of it. Last time I had to fork over $200.
But I'll hold off because some lady backed into my left front fender this week so I have to get that fixed first.
Does anyone know where the Maxx's turn signal flasher is located...or if there is one at all?
I had a weird experience recently in which neither my left nor right turn signals would work. Fortunately, it cleared up on its own but I thought I'd investigage a possible cause...like the flasher being loose in its socket.
I've hunted all over the owner's manual, including the fuse block diagrams, and I can't seem to locate it. Or is this another function that has been turned over to the all-knowing, all-powerful computer?
>>GM will pay for the rental, but not all of it. Last time I had to fork over $200.<< Dealer had my car 5 days for warranty work, the rental only cost me gasoline used.
It happens. I also lost my turn signal flasher which later came back on its own. I don't think it's a relay or fuse but the Body Control Module that goes on the blink now and again. Fortunately, its only happened once so far to me.
I have an '01 This has happen to me lots of times. The first time the dealership figured out what was wrong it cost about 600.00. They said my theft system locked up one year later it happened again. The only way they found the problem was that my car would not start at all. The other times i took it in and it started up a few mins. later they said it looked like someone tried to break in. Good Luck.
I test drove a Malibu Base 4cyl for the night, and with 4 miles on the odo, it read 7/8 tank (dealer apparently filled it most of the way for me right before I picked up).
When I first started it, the electronic range calculator said 71 miles. After driving approx 30 minutes, 10 miles in city traffic and two stops for errands, it was up to the low 90s. After 5 more miles of city traffic and 10 miles of highway traffic, it is now showing ~170.
I think that 170 is still low based on it reading 3/4 of a tank. Also I am concerned that it took almost an hour of driving to get it up to that range. Does anyone else's work react this slowly to a fill-up? PLEASE reply back ASAP to let me know if you get
1) an "instant" read of the new mileage, similar to most Chrystler, Cadillac, and other chevy products I've driven
2) a "quick" read of the new milage within 1-2 minutes, similar to most fords that I've driven
3) a "slow and drawn out" read over 45-60 minutes that still doesn't seem right like me..
Also it would be helpful if anyone with a base or LS can share the approx values that you can remember seeing on the display when it reads at F 3/4 1/2 1/4 and E.
The calculations are based on your present driving conditions plus the history of your past driving conditions unless you reset the odometer to zero. See the user manual about this.
If you take the car onto the highway and reset the trip odometer to zero and then drive at highway speeds, the computer will give an almost instantaneous readout of range and fuel consumption. For convenience there are 2 trip odometers so you can leave one to record your overall mileage and 1 to play around with.
I have the base 4cyl. and my highway mileage at 65mph is 38mpg on a level stretch. This will change rapidly depending if I'm going uphill or downhill. On a very slight downhill stretch I've had an indication of over 40mpg.
I can't at this moment recall the values for different gas tank levels.
I can't comment on the base sedan...I never drove one or consider one. I have an 04 Maxx LS. I'm responding just in the hope that it might help a little.
When I reset the Fuel Range calculator, I get an almost instantaneous reading of MPG. If I'm at a steady 50-60 MPH, it will briefly run up as high as 40 MPG, then settle down to a more realistic number: 30-35 MPG. The longer I drive since resetting it the longer it will take to update, because it is an average of all the driving done since it was last reset.
OTOH, if I reset it when I'm standing still at a stop light, the numbers will be *very* low, but will then usually rebound into the low 20 MPG range. FYI, my average MPG has been about 23 in all-city driving, 31 MPG on long trips and overall around 27 MPG. Not bad at all.
Same thing happens with my car. I am very fastidious (did I spell that correctly?) about gas mileage & keeping track of it and always aware of what I am getting for gas mileage, how many miles to go before empty, etc. I don't like going to gas stations any more than necessary & tend to run the tank very low.
The miles to go feature can take some time before correcting itself after fill up. No exaggeration, but I have sometimes gone over 100 miles before it corrects itself. Once I fill up, depending on what the gas mileage on computer was, it might read anywhere from 270 to 350 miles, but might correct itself up to as much as 500 miles to go when I have driven up to 100. In other words, I have read the miles to go, added to miles driven after a fill up to as high as 630 total. We know the vehicle cannot go that far on a 16 gallon tank. On my MAXX, the furthest I have gone is 473 miles on a tank at which time I added 15.3 gallons for an average of almost 31 mpg. The computer at that time read that I was getting around 34 mpg. You will find that the trip computer always 1.5 to 3 mpg over actual and other's on this board have the same comment.
so you are the king of mileage on your Maxx..how many so far.....Im approaching 14K on mine at 10 months old......last I say you were over 20K on yours....how is it doing?
22600 now. Just finished a trip last week in 5 days. Prov RI through NY State to Toronto, up to Montreal & back home 1800 miles later. Now, must leave early tomorrow morning to Montreal (all the way for an office party) and back Sunday PM. That will put on another 700 miles. So, I think I will be way ahead of everyone else on this board with a Maxx. As I said earlier, no problems at all. Except that gas mileage is dipping a little. I should get at least 28 mpg on this trip, was getting up to 31 previously. There is nothing else to do for maintenance on the vehicle that I am aware of. Change oil every 3000 miles, have already rotated tires three times.
I've just been advised by my dealer that the fuel tank they ordered has arrived. The appointment to replace it is scheduled for next week. I'm wondering if this is a relatively straightforward job or if I can expect problems. Anyone who has had this done on their Maxx (to correct the inaccurate fuel gauge problem) have any horror stories?
sounds good....will be at 15k at the new year..with a trip VA to SC and return....oil every 3K but been bad and havent rotated tires at all....but...tread wear is exceptional on these OEM tires..Im surprised by that....good to hear from another satisfied owner....cheers
Had mine done yesterday (12/16). Everything seems okay. Filled up after the repair from a little less than 1/4 tank and it took 12.6 gallons. Before the repair I could only put in 13 gallons when the low fuel light was on.
Some of my other repairs (poorly cast transmission case that leaked, squeaking radiator fan, etc) were not so straightforward!
At nine months I have 12k on the Maxx. I have not rotated the tires and I don't plan on it. My car does not pull either way, the ride is great. Tire wear is nil. I've read the pros and cons for rotation and decided this will be the first car that I don't rotate the tires. Time will tell.
if your MAXX's rear bumper gets lightly bumped on the side, and pushed in (internal bracket deformed but no frame damage) expect to pay $700 - 800 to get this fixed in Southern California.
As a side note, one collision shop had in their lobby a magazine describing how Body shops should change their charging procedures to make more money.
to just remind every one..I had a little side collision..ford explore basically side swiped me from teh driver rear to the back..one small dent..and minor abrasions to the paint....they also cracked the small rear window pane during the repair..the total was almost $2600 and the only thing the repair shop replaced was the window...all others was labor and paint w/ clearcoat.....
Pretty much just cost though sometimes rotating tires can introduce a pull in the steering. Rotating prolongs and evens out tire wear but if you're paying a shop to do the work that cost may not equal the theoretical extended life. A downside to not rotating is the temptation to replace only the front tires when worn rather than getting 4 new, equal tires.
i dont think there is any cons to rotation of tires to be honest. I did it every 5-8K miles on my previous autos to even out treadwear....I have almost 14k on my maxx and probably will not rotate them on this car..the tread wear is almost invisible, and the car drives straight and narrow...just simply dont see the need to do it with this car to be honest
I agree on the balancing..I have one NTB store here in northern VA that I trust..the others I have found dont know how to set the machine to the size of the tire or use the right weights for the rims!
there are no cons to rotating your tires. I have never seen a tire which can endure remaining on the front axle for very long. If you don't rotate, the front tires will degrade faster; although I agree that these Bridgestones are the very best OEM tire I have ever owned. Nonetheless, tires should be rotated every 5k. It makes a big difference. I don't get them balanced (unless I feel vibration at high speeds) since I rotate the OEMs myself. Once I remove the OEMs and put on some Firestone H rated tires with UNI-T technology (I've owned two pairs), from Tires Plus, I get their road hazard policy, ensuring not only do I get the tires rotated and balanced for free, but also when the agressive tread pattern picks up a nail along the way, I get a replacement tire.
Just a thougt on why we haven't heard from e2helper of late... I'm guessing he is using up the last of his vacation for the 2004 calendar year. GM's policy is "use it or lose it". It may be that we may not hear from him before the first of the year if that is the case. I may be wrong but that's my guess.
Hello all. My Maxx LT loaded except DVD and On Star and 4,000 miles had the dreaded gas tank fiasco (took 17 days to "find")Was a danger to drive (as I was told)Wish I had found this site to enlighten my dealer. Mine is a 5-04 build. Presently minimal rattles but I have the low gas gauge which I will have looked at and the tranny hum (Is it really fixed by the recommendations here. It seems some get it done and others avoid. Why? The question though is my adjustable pedal will click but not move, any insights? #2 now that it's cold in IL my #2 heated seat burns my biscuits and #1 seems to cycle on and off. Any insights? Thanks
Still waiting on the dealer to fix the hum that I've posted about previously. Not very impressed with my dealer though, after having the steering column replaced about a week and a half ago they didn't recalibrate it so it pulled to the right, took it back and they recalibrated it. Then the hum, which they claim is the transmission shift cable (which they ordered on the day they replaced my steering column) came in Thursday, but they broke the "special" tool when they were trying to remove the old one, had a new one overnighted but didn't make it here today, will try again Monday. If only the local GMC/Pontiac/Cadillac dealership could repair a Chevy under warranty, they have a much better service department.
sciguy: I also have a May built Maxx. I think the dealership is the LAST place I would take my car for repairs. Therefore, I personally would not rush into getting the tranny noise "fixed" by having these same people tear apart my transmission for such a minor problem. It is way too big a risk in my book.
Drop sub frame, remove transmission, split case, install 7/8" sprockets and chain, then its quiet.
Its a resonance, so maybe an engineer would know about long term effects. I had mine repaired because the noise was too much to bear on a new vehicle. 4500 miles on repair and no problems, I have a top grade dealer when it come to major repairs.
my 04 maxx lt shifts hard into 2nd gear for some reason, anyone else have this issue? it's enough to make your whoe body move forward out of the seat a few inches when shifting into 2nd gear. it almost feels like i tapped on the brakes for instance.
The downside of not rotating is the uneven wear of the front tires. Most OEM tires usually last 40 - 50 k miles. If rotated every 6k at $30 each you have invested $180 plus. Even if I replace tires at the low end of the scale I figure I'm ahead of the game. I pay attention to the tire pressure and don't abuse the tires.
I've always rebalanced the tires every rotation. My local Chevy dealer told me if I go much past 15k not to rotate at all.
Haha - Well I am trying to stick with stuff I can truly HELP on and stay clear of subjects better left for you to discuss.
BTW on your 4 cyl crank complaint, sometime next week dealer should have document available to them regarding new calibration we have discussed b4 on board. You can tell dealer that YOU were one of the reasons it got written (LOL). I don't have actual number for it yet though, sorry.
Nonetheless, tires should be rotated every 5k. It makes a big difference.
It is best to rotate your tires. I was given free rotation on my 1999 Suburban with OEM Firestones. I let Firestone rotate every 5k miles. Never had them re-balanced in 47k miles. They still had plenty of tread when I replaced them at 47k miles. They were badly weather checked from sitting out in the sun for 6 years, or I would have kept them.
I recently rented a 2005 malibu and was kind of disapointed in everything but the interior, the side window/molding /framework was awfully shaped, where the competitors make the side window frame flush, the malibu has an old dimensional un-smooth look and feel, it looks horrible for a new design, the rear is no better that large chrome bar does nothing for it , nor the tailamps, the front end is slightly better, the rear and side profile are but ugly, one thing about safety that bugged me was the steeering it was the worst id ever experienced, worse than my '87 lds regency 98 boat, it was vague, imprecise, off center, no road feel at all, constant steering corrections, seems more like a design flaw maybe, the v6 engine seemed decent and smooth, but the styling and steering were plain old and nasty...Typical rental fleet? seems like it..good buy probably.
I read your earlier post down below in the quotes....
Should I have my dealer do this or ask if they did this already? Maybe why my Malibu is off centered and pulls to the left???
"Sounds like they may not have "zeroed" the torque and/or handwheel sensor after replacing the column. It is a procedure they do using their scan tool."
What does "zeroed the torque" mean and/or "handwheel sensor"??
Maxxit2004, you can find TSB at the nhtsa.dot.gov site by adding /cars/problems/ to the end of the .gov suffix.
I'm not sure if Edmunds allows links of this sort to be posted, but this info should get you there. You can select TSB there and go through the vehicles.
The TSB relating to vehicle pulling to the left APPEARS to be nhtsa item number 10008849, or GM service bulletin 3000, dated Jan 1, 2004 It is listed under the SUSPENSION catagory (not steering or steering columm). Unfortunately only a brief summary of the TSB is available without paying a fee for it.
Incidently there are 19 TSB catatories on the Maxx, some of which have been discussed here. By comparison, the HONDA accord has only 3 catagories, one of which is transmission.
Wrt my Maxx, the "dome light" rattles were really the rear cargo deck (floor ??) rattling against the trim. The local dealer realigned this stuff and the vehicle is now quiet again (I think - only time will tell fer sur). They also had to fix front brake callipers that were moving too much anc also causing suspension noise.
One transmission comment (it's had all the cals I know of); it works very smoothly when throttle is moved slowly, but not so great if you have to accelerate hard. Mash the accel and:
1) the tranny takes 1-2 seconds to make up its mind, 2) sometimes it overshoots and abruptly shifts with a lurch.
Would be nice if it were more responsive when you really need it (no, I'm not a hot rodder but in LA there are times one needs to manuever fast to get out of trouble).
Wrt steering? Seems to be a lot of variability here. My columm was replaced and I've noted there is definitely road feel but is "filtered" a bit. There doesn't seem to be any wild variations in steering effort when I turn, and on freeways the car tracks extremely well and isn't nervous at all (my Saturn ION by comparison was hair-trigger - small corrections from center were hair triggerish at best.)
the nissan maxima by giving the malibu the maxx nickname please! Malibu is a Rental/fleet/wal-mart vehicle not a MAxima any regard exept they are both powered by gasoline!
told me the steering system in malibu will always be troublesom bacause it was an afterthaught, and almost up into late production it was a normal hydrlic system, and that the mounting and offset were off and they would have to change the whole subframe to correctly fix it. and said Malibu will either be dropped in 2 more production years or be totally redesigned, as Gm's expectations of this car have been disapointing, I was impressed with the interior seemed up tp par with competition, but with all the assets GM has in the billions you's think they would finally build something to seriously compete with the Japan/German offering..IMHO
Comments
let me know, thanks!
But I'll hold off because some lady backed into my left front fender this week so I have to get that fixed first.
I had a weird experience recently in which neither my left nor right turn signals would work. Fortunately, it cleared up on its own but I thought I'd investigage a possible cause...like the flasher being loose in its socket.
I've hunted all over the owner's manual, including the fuse block diagrams, and I can't seem to locate it. Or is this another function that has been turned over to the all-knowing, all-powerful computer?
When I first started it, the electronic range calculator said 71 miles. After driving approx 30 minutes, 10 miles in city traffic and two stops for errands, it was up to the low 90s. After 5 more miles of city traffic and 10 miles of highway traffic, it is now showing ~170.
I think that 170 is still low based on it reading 3/4 of a tank. Also I am concerned that it took almost an hour of driving to get it up to that range. Does anyone else's work react this slowly to a fill-up? PLEASE reply back ASAP to let me know if you get
1) an "instant" read of the new mileage, similar to most Chrystler, Cadillac, and other chevy products I've driven
2) a "quick" read of the new milage within 1-2 minutes, similar to most fords that I've driven
3) a "slow and drawn out" read over 45-60 minutes that still doesn't seem right like me..
Also it would be helpful if anyone with a base or LS can share the approx values that you can remember seeing on the display when it reads at F 3/4 1/2 1/4 and E.
THANKS.
If you take the car onto the highway and reset the trip odometer to zero and then drive at highway speeds, the computer will give an almost instantaneous readout of range and fuel consumption. For convenience there are 2 trip odometers so you can leave one to record your overall mileage and 1 to play around with.
I have the base 4cyl. and my highway mileage at 65mph is 38mpg on a level stretch. This will change rapidly depending if I'm going uphill or downhill. On a very slight downhill stretch I've had an indication of over 40mpg.
I can't at this moment recall the values for different gas tank levels.
When I reset the Fuel Range calculator, I get an almost instantaneous reading of MPG. If I'm at a steady 50-60 MPH, it will briefly run up as high as 40 MPG, then settle down to a more realistic number: 30-35 MPG. The longer I drive since resetting it the longer it will take to update, because it is an average of all the driving done since it was last reset.
OTOH, if I reset it when I'm standing still at a stop light, the numbers will be *very* low, but will then usually rebound into the low 20 MPG range. FYI, my average MPG has been about 23 in all-city driving, 31 MPG on long trips and overall around 27 MPG. Not bad at all.
The miles to go feature can take some time before correcting itself after fill up. No exaggeration, but I have sometimes gone over 100 miles before it corrects itself. Once I fill up, depending on what the gas mileage on computer was, it might read anywhere from 270 to 350 miles, but might correct itself up to as much as 500 miles to go when I have driven up to 100. In other words, I have read the miles to go, added to miles driven after a fill up to as high as 630 total. We know the vehicle cannot go that far on a 16 gallon tank. On my MAXX, the furthest I have gone is 473 miles on a tank at which time I added 15.3 gallons for an average of almost 31 mpg. The computer at that time read that I was getting around 34 mpg. You will find that the trip computer always 1.5 to 3 mpg over actual and other's on this board have the same comment.
so you are the king of mileage on your Maxx..how many so far.....Im approaching 14K on mine at 10 months old......last I say you were over 20K on yours....how is it doing?
Some of my other repairs (poorly cast transmission case that leaked, squeaking radiator fan, etc) were not so straightforward!
As a side note, one collision shop had in their lobby a magazine describing how Body shops should change their charging procedures to make more money.
I'm in the wrong line of work.
I also need the tsb for the "establishing the center" problem. the nhtsa website doesn't give the gm bulletin # out.
thanks.
WRT "establishing center" this is part of procedure in service manual when replacing column so I am not aware of any bulletin on it.
Its a resonance, so maybe an engineer would know about long term effects. I had mine repaired because the noise was too much to bear on a new vehicle. 4500 miles on repair and no problems, I have a top grade dealer when it come to major repairs.
i should have the howl tsb done too, i hear that once in a while.
let me know!
you dont hear the clicking sound until the drivers side window is rolled all the way down and if you keep the button pressed down it starts to click.
any idea of what this is, is this normal?
I've always rebalanced the tires every rotation. My local Chevy dealer told me if I go much past 15k not to rotate at all.
BTW on your 4 cyl crank complaint, sometime next week dealer should have document available to them regarding new calibration we have discussed b4 on board. You can tell dealer that YOU were one of the reasons it got written (LOL). I don't have actual number for it yet though, sorry.
It is best to rotate your tires. I was given free rotation on my 1999 Suburban with OEM Firestones. I let Firestone rotate every 5k miles. Never had them re-balanced in 47k miles. They still had plenty of tread when I replaced them at 47k miles. They were badly weather checked from sitting out in the sun for 6 years, or I would have kept them.
Should I have my dealer do this or ask if they did this already? Maybe why my Malibu is off centered and pulls to the left???
"Sounds like they may not have "zeroed" the torque and/or handwheel sensor after replacing the column. It is a procedure they do using their scan tool."
What does "zeroed the torque" mean and/or "handwheel sensor"??
Let me know.
I'm not sure if Edmunds allows links of this sort to be posted, but this info should get you there. You can select TSB there and go through the vehicles.
The TSB relating to vehicle pulling to the left APPEARS to be nhtsa item number 10008849, or GM service bulletin 3000, dated Jan 1, 2004 It is listed under the SUSPENSION catagory (not steering or steering columm). Unfortunately only a brief summary of the TSB is available without paying a fee for it.
Incidently there are 19 TSB catatories on the Maxx, some of which have been discussed here. By comparison, the HONDA accord has only 3 catagories, one of which is transmission.
One transmission comment (it's had all the cals I know of); it works very smoothly when throttle is moved slowly, but not so great if you have to accelerate hard. Mash the accel and:
1) the tranny takes 1-2 seconds to make up its mind, 2) sometimes it overshoots and abruptly shifts with a lurch.
Would be nice if it were more responsive when you really need it (no, I'm not a hot rodder but in LA there are times one needs to manuever fast to get out of trouble).
Wrt steering? Seems to be a lot of variability here. My columm was replaced and I've noted there is definitely road feel but is "filtered" a bit. There doesn't seem to be any wild variations in steering effort when I turn, and on freeways the car tracks extremely well and isn't nervous at all (my Saturn ION by comparison was hair-trigger - small corrections from center were hair triggerish at best.)