Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see May lease deals!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
This is for 2004 Malibu or Mailbu Maxx only. I don't have any other info, sorry.
Perhaps E2helper has already posted the TSB or can repost it?
As a side note, Pontiac's G6 "SS" version will supposedly have Hydraulic Power Steering.
Keep in mind BMW also has electric power steering in some of its model, and that car enthusasists seem to like the Electric power steering now in the Saturn ION Redline (the latter uses a different position feedback technique than the Malibu does, though).
My Daughter asked one of the owners for an appraisal (her Malibu is loaded, a 2004, and has 19,000 miles). The appraisal came in at $12,000. NOT GOOD at all...the balance owed to gmac is $18,000.
I read an article recently, stating the American Car Companies are gonna get hurt badly...from buying their harnesses & electrical parts from 3rd world nations. They lack skill, motivation, and knowledge to make these critical parts.
Electrical problems with a new launch vehicle is a MAJOR problem, GM needs to fix this ASAP!
Most car manufactures including imports out source wiring harnesses to so-called 3world countries. You can hardly find a "Japanese" brand camera that is not made in China anymore. That is the way all things are going these days.
All manufactures have problems with new launch vehicles. Just don't forget Ford and the Focus.
I've seen wiring for both Toyota and GM, and Toyota's is better. Toyota uses phosphor/bronze and adds a sealing compound to their connectors. GM (apparently) uses tin and no sealing compound for theirs. Tin is dirt cheap, but oxidizes. In the computer world, tin's reserved for only the cheapest and most expendable products.
Is it any wonder why Consumer Union's reliability ratings for electrical systems show virtually ALL GM cars as severely deteriorating after 3 years, while Toyotas soldier on for 6 years or more with little trouble?
My concern is the new Malibu will be just as bad as the previous ones in this area. Only time will tell.
As for using phosphor bronze connectors, just take a peek at the engine compartment and fuse box next to the passenger seat and what do see? Huge phosphor bronze earth lugs. I haven't investigated further but the wiring looks good to me. I've been in the electrical/electronic game for 50 years and I know what's good or bad wiring and the Malibu is no worse than my Honda Prelude.
What is a cause of concern to me though is the liberal use of micro processors throughout the new Malibu which are causing problems. But in this respect it's no worse than the BMW iDrive or any other modern car for that matter. European cars in general have a very bad reputation for electrical problems. It's not so much the wiring that causes problems but the computer systems.
Engine tuning is done by upgrading the software today and not by twiddling screws on a carburetor. It's just like having to upgrade your software in your computer because of a bug. The owner is left to the mercy of the dealer who might and might not do a good job.
That has been my complaint all along. My friends 2004 Toyota Camry has had endless problems with bad automatic gear shifting. There is a software glitch in the computer. His dealer is less than helpful.
Why I mentioned Ford Focus was because when it was introduced it also had some serious teething problems including the endearing habit of seizing up the rear bearings and twisting the stub axles off. That and endless other electrical glitches. Ford has sorted out the problems and the Focus is now a recommended buy. I'm sure the Malibu will also sort itself out.
Wrt wiring, the connectors on the wire harnesses themselves is what I am referring to. One example is next to the gas tank underneath the car under the right rear doorsill just before the rear wheel. Salt spray could create real havoc there as there are no spray shields or anything to protect that connector.
I've not looked under the car to examine the wiring but what I've seen is pretty much what most cars look like today. You could always spray a protective coating of DeoxIT D5 on the terminals to protect them from corrosion. The stuff is very good and improves electrical connections. It comes in a handy aerosol can.
DeoxIT D5 and ProGold, from Caig Laboratories, are indeed excellent contact cleaners and sealers.
Another sealer is from Corrosion Technologies, and is called CorrosionX. This stuff is used by the military for protecting ferrous and other metals against salt and other electrolytic sprays. Very effective, and will protect electrical connections as well.
kurt: I didn't think you were that old!
I've just had a look in that very position under my car and what I see is a black plastic closed box about 6ins by 8ins. I see no exposed terminals. Are you sure there is not a cover missing? Ok, I've got the 4cyl. Malibu but I'm sure they wouldn't leave exposed terminals on purpose underneath your car.
Quite frankly, I think the dealer that told you that story hasn't got a clue how the system works or what the problems are. You should delete everything he told you.
I do not have kinked/pinched hoses as washers worked perfectly a few days ago. Tank is full too. As soon as it warms up a little and hoses thaw out, I am going to drain the tank and put in the winter de-icing formula washer fluid and see if it helps. I had to do this on my older car which had this type of spray system.
When I take the Maxx in for (I hope) a dome light rattle fix, I'll ask them if the shield is indeed missing.
I just had my gas tank replaced and the dealer broke off one of the fasteners for the wiring harness (causing the wires to hang low). There is a connector that is fastened to the black plastic "box". This connector is not well protected from salt spray -- at least on my Feb 2004 build. I just used some wire ties to hang it a little higher.
The EPS works the moment you start the engine. The EPS system is much more efficient than a hydraulic system because it only draws energy when you turn the steering wheel. A hydraulic pump always consumes power. GM claims a gas saving of 4%. Also, on an EPS system there are no pipes to leak and the system takes up very little space.
Some companies, though, try to "cheat" and thus dealers have to overcharge for other work to make up for loosing on warranty work.
Also, some dealers may have higher overhead due to water/power, zoneing fees, taxes and other issues.
I'm still getting static from my dealer on the matter of having to stomp hard on the pedal in order to get the cruise to disengage. Sometimes there's a lag of several seconds even though I've pushed the pedal through several inches of its travel. And occasionally the throttle seems to "fight" the brake, adding power in an attempt to overcome the brake application -- a very weird feeling when you need to turn the cruise off quickly and start slowing down!
Two different service advisers have told me on two separate occasions that they've compared my car to others and it's "operating as designed". Any advice for me? Thanks.
It doesn't have any effect on cruise control disengagement anyways.
Only suggestion I would have would be for dealer to perform a Brake Pedal Position Sensor Calibration to "rezero" the system. It requires them using their "Tech 2" scan tool. Do you think this might have already been done based on your discussions with service advisors?
http://www.delphi.com/pdf/s/str_esteer.pdf
The column mount on page 2 is the one used on the Malibu.
I purchased a malibu with a 200hp engine in August/04. Since October I noticed my mileage declining. I began to record my consumption and found I was getting 18 mpg (that's imperial gallons). Since then it's dropped to 12 mpg.
Today's list of problems include: no gear indicator on the dash, clock on the radio lost it's time, the driver's side passenger door won't close after 30 below, the driver's door won't close after 35 below.
Mileage is the key issue. Any ideas?
has anyone else had the cruise control "auto-adjust" its speed? I live in the western North Carolina mountains, and routinely travel across a fairly steep one on my way to work. On the way up one side I set my cruise to 55mph (posted speed limit on the mountain). As the car crosses the top and begins the downhill descent it picks up speed from gravity. About 1/2 mile down the posted limit increases back to 65mph. What I usually do is just bump the cruise setting up. Occasionally though the car immediately starts accelerating from whatever speed it's currently doing. In other words, normal operation for most vehicles, including the Malibu, is that if the cruise was set at 55, but car is coasting downhill at 60 and I tap cruise + 5 times, the vehicle holds 60 (55 + 5mph). The Malibu occasionally increases to 65 for situations like this though, as if it was initially set to the coasting speed.