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According to chevrolet.com, the '05 with rear audio comes with wireless headphones as e2helper said. The dealer is stuck in 2004 - and this is the "customer satisfaction" guy that I am dealing with. I am going to have to call Chevrolet customer assistance and have them contact the dealer. Is there anyone else here from GM that understands what a dissatisfier these little things are?
This message board is good stuff. Can you tell me build dat for VIN 1G1ZT64804F234748? Thanks in advance.
1) The rear audio option (UK6) uses a different control unit for 2005. The new one is capable of using the wireless headphones.
2) Wireless headphones are supposed to be included with 05 Maxx's built with rear audio UK6.
3) My dealer will give me the wireless headphones (he has some in stock - perhaps the ones they snagged from my car during prep?). I just have to drive the 30 minutes each way to pick them up.
Again, thank you e2helper!
However, if what you are saying is that after you have released the key (key in run position) and the engine has started, the computer does not stop the starter from cranking or it tries to start the car again such that you hear the gears grinding, then I would think something is probably wrong and you should have it checked out.
After a short trip, my Maxx sometimes does not start on first attempt. Computer cranks for 5-6 seconds then stops before engine has started. I think it is normal that it stop cranking after 5-6 seconds on a no-start. This prevents start motor from overheating and battery run down. After 2-3 attempts, it starts right up. I am going to have dealer reflash PCM to latest calibration next time I bring it in. Other posts here state this will correct the hard start problem.
But it looks to be 5/19/04
As I've said in other posts, this is the worst cruise control I've ever experienced, hands down. I haven't had mine in to the dealer for another attempt at solving the "stand on the brake pedal to disengage" problem that plagues mine, but I intend to have them look at it again. Btw, thanks to those who posted info on this previously.
Do you know about this recall? Maybe it has something to do with my intermittent no-start situation.
Any ideas anyone? I'd especially like e2helpers opinion!
I apologize, but first a few clarifications.
On the times that this occurred you say it "cranks fine but won't turn over until you slightly release the key". So you observed no problems cranking the engine these times, the engine just wouldn't start?
The other times you had "feeling the key was sticking in start position.....engine running, but the starter still going". Does that mean that you thought that you intially cranked the vehicle and the engine began running under its power but the starter motor was still running and engaged - which typically causing some nasty noises. How long do you think that condition occurred? Or did it continue until you shut off the engine.
Then, 04002 IGNITION CIRCUIT THERMAL EVENTS.
That's it. No other numbers. This is the first notification I have had about this.
Last ratings I'm aware of had Anco Premium 31 on top. Since then Anco has a new blade "HydroClear". You could put one of each on either side and tell us how they do!
Ratings: from Consumer Reports - Oct., 2000, Pg. 37
http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/content/front/0,2194,2442_7142_1- 3676243,00.html
Last ratings I'm aware of had Anco Premium 31 on top. Since then Anco has a new blade "HydroClear". You could put one of each on either side and tell us how they do!
Ratings: from Consumer Reports - Oct., 2000, Pg. 37
http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/content/front/0,2194,2442_7142_1- 3676243,00.html
Hazard Lamp Switch activation is one of the disablers of Remote Start
It is mentioned in owner manual - somewhere around page 2-10, I think.
We wanted some way to allow you to easily disable from inside the vehicle and hazard switch was felt to be an accessible point.
Now why were you trying to remote start your vehicle with the hazard lights flashing? LOL
==============================================
Maybe you might be interested in what else disables remote start?
Not a complete list but here are things that come to mind:
Hazard Lamps ON
Powertrain Controller detects a fault which causes a Check Engine Lite
Transmission not in Park
Key in Ignition
Hood open
Also you will notice if during remote start you manually push on accelerator pedal to idle above some value that the engine will shut off after a few seconds (I forgot what RPM it happens at).
If you do cause these types of disable criteria to occur the Body Control Module will store it away in memory so keep that in mind if you later take a vehicle to the dealer with a remote start inop complaint.
The car will crank, but not start until I start to turn the key back to the run position. At first, it feels like it has a strong battery, but no gas, Then all of a sudden it will start and run perfect. It only happens after running it up to reg. operating temperature and then trying to start it after it sits for about 30 minutes.
The other thing that happens less often is I will quickly turn the key, it will start, I will start to take my hand away and then realize that the engine is running but the starter is also running. I then quickly jiggle the key and the starter disengages. It's very nerve-racking to hear that sound, like you said. Is it possible to turn the key too quickly?
Thanks for your help.
I don't remember if you provided me your last 6 digits of VIN but please do so to see what calibration in your PCM. I don't want act like it is a panacea (cure all) but the latest calibration did mention something about improving starting. Vehicles built after early May 2004 already had this calibration.
The second item you are experiencing, truthfully makes no sense to me at this time. It is not possible to turn the key too quickly. For this vehicle the ignition switch is really a low power device which is used to give electronic modules an indication of your intent for "power moding" of the vehicle. However the whole cranking/starting event although initiated by you is really directly under the control of the engine controller (PCM). So when you request the vehicle to crank it will keep the starter relay engaged until it has determined that the engine is running. It decides on its own when to disengage the starter relay. Jiggling the key should have no effect on what is going on, it might be just coincidence.
I should mention that under conditions where the vehicle doesn't start quickly (I don't know how long) if you don't hold the ignition key in the START position the vehicle will stop cranking before the engine actually starts.
So a few follow-ups......
1. On the first item. It sounds like when you turn back to run you then need to try to start vehicle again and it starts OK, correct?
2. On the second item. When you remove your hand what position do you think the ignition switch is in? When you "jiggle" the key do you actually turn off the engine or does it continue to run? How long would you estimate this starter "grinding" sound might occur for?
Sorry I don't have an easy answer for you.
However if you ever see this telltale flashing when you are driving this indicates a misfire condition is occuring and manual gives you other suggestions on that.
The difference I see is that, on the Malibu, the deflector that pops up when the glass slides back is perfectly vertical with the center cut out (almost "C" shaped) - it works like an air brake. On the other cars, this piece was more horizontal and helped guide the air over the opening, not into it.
I don't think anything is wrong, I just don't like it. I refuse to put one of those hideous acrylic wind deflectors on my car so I'll just live with it. Just my $.02.
http://www.wooddash.com/item/CHEVROLET_Wind_Deflectors_MALIBU_200- - - 4_05
I've got an 05 Maxx LS with about 300 miles on it, and I've encountered my first problems.
Yesterday evening my wife was driving the car home from work when the "Check Gas Cap" warning lit up. She got home, told me about it, and I reseated the gas cap, started up the car, and drove around a bit. Message still lit up. Now, reading the board here evidently the Check Gas Cap message will light up until a test (or is it three tests) runs that shuts it off again, and the computer only runs the tests after the engine is cold. Is this correct?
Also, I filled the tank for the first time a couple of days ago and the gauge stopped at around halfway between full and 3/4. Is this related to the gas cap problem? Is the car refusing to go to full because it's running some tests or the like?
My wife is going to call the dealer this morning to check. Does anyone have any idea if the fixes for these problems are long and/or expensive? I'd expect things to be covered under warranty though. Should I tell my wife to tell the Chevy guys about PIC3088 (whatever that is... very mysterious)?
I know both of these issues have been talked about before (most informatively by e2helper) but I wasn't able to find a definitive answer or solution. If someone could set me to right I'd really appreciate it. Thanks much.
It gives them a test to perform on fuel tank and fuel sender. Would be a good idea to provide them the vehicle with as little gas as possible since they have to drop fuel tank to perform test (and they won't have to siphon off as much fuel).
I'm compelled to respond to your query, "Now why were you trying to remote start your vehicle with the hazard lights flashing? LOL". I was unloading my car in an area normally reserved for commercial vehicles at a local office complex. I turned the flashers on to hopefully indicate to local parking enforcement that I was there temporarily "taking care of business", and should return shortly. Since the weather was on the cool side I decided to use the remote start while approaching the car. That's when I discovered that the remote start wouldn't work.
I'm aware of how PCM controls the crank/start sequence. I always just turn key to start momentarily and let PCM take over. When this happens the starter cranks for 5-6 seconds then stops without engine starting. After 1 or 2 attempts it starts and runs fine. I never turn key off, just from run to start momentarily for each start attempt.
After engine starts, turning key to start does nothing. PCM won't engage starter if engine is running.
I do not have problem where starter keeps cranking after engine starts. My suggestion for townhome would be to not hold key in start position and never turn to start while starter is cranking. Perhaps turning key to start during some split second while PCM has control might cause this starter grinding problem.
I also have slight intermittent engine shake while idling in drive with A/C off and occasional delay on 3-4 upshift.
My 04 Maxx LS was built in Feb (VIN 178793), so I will have PCM reflashed to latest calibration next time I bring it in for service. Hopefully that will resolve all my problems.
I also have the transmission howling problem. My trans build date is 2/12 (julian 4043), so it is one with the 5/8 in drive link. I'm on the fence as to whether I want dealer to fix this or not. I'm concerned the resonating chain will fail after my 72/90 x-warranty has expired. I need to keep this car at least 8 years.
All the helpful info you have posted in this forum is just great. Thanks again.
Your help is appreciated, but it would really be nice to see the General M actually have a system for tracking folks and getting regular feedback on their new cars, especially newly introduced ones. The April Clinic was an excellent example of trying to do this, but if one is keeping a vehicle for a long time (6 years? more?), one single clinic doesn't provide much opportunity to contribute long term feedback.
The dealer service department is no subsitute - those folks seem to only want to fix the problem at hand as quickly as possible and move on to the next (hopefully paying) customer.
Same problem here. Took car to 2 dealers. One said there is no problem and the other had no interest in fixing it because "GM doesn't like me ordering parts I might not use".
Would like to know details if you get it fixed.