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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair
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I know blue book shows the price to be around 2440 but this seems to low considering the trucks condition. The engine does show some rust but nothing is wrong with the engine. So did I get a good deal or did I pay to much ?
Darr47
I had the same problem with my 1982 S10 Blazer. Turned out to be a pinched brake line. You can't tell looking at it because those lines are two in one. In other words there is a metal tube/line inside the outer brake line. You should maybe try swapping the line out. those lines/hoses are not expensive.
Best of Luck.
Oh and you should go ahead and replace the brake shoes since they were put under so much stress......
Robert
Owners manual gives sequence for alternate settings (certain speed on manual shift and locks when placed in gear for auto trans) but does not instruct on how to turn those things off and of course Chevy dealership service dep't has no clue but would be real happy for me to bring it in and waste half my life in their waiting area.
Thanks in advance for sharing the info!
I also checked the fuses, there is one for the ignition and one for the injectors. Good Luck.
I have a problem with my 97 chevy 4X4( 4.3 l V6). Sometimes (about 1out of 4) when i hit my turn signal or touch my brake my radio will shut off for about 4 seconds and then come back on. It does not lose memory, so the power must not be completly lost, right? just looking for suggestions. Thanks for you help.
captainshapely
whats going on?
1.) Pressure...you buy a device that fits securely onto your master cylinder reservoir. It puts fluid under pressure, forcing it down the brakes lines. Put a hose and container to the brake screw...crack it open..and here comes the fluid. The great thing about this method is that the container keeps supplying brake fluid so the reservoir does not run out. The down side....You need to buy special adapters for your specific reservoir. You need to "collect" into another container on the other end.
2.) Vacuum...you buy a device that creates a vacuum at the brake fitting...which "sucks" brake fluid through the lines. MightyVac is a good example of this. The good...one container to catch the fluid...vacuum can be used for other things...the hose stays attached to the fitting better under vacuum then it does under pressure. The bad...you have to keep a CLOSE eye on the reservoir and keep it filled.
Both methods are so good...you dont 'bleed" your brakes...you replace all the fluid with fresh, clean, new, brake fluid.
will turn over and run for a few seconds but then dies again.
great shape with 77000 miles.
any ideas?
Thanks,
Jeff
1. it has all 4 gears and reverse
2. all shift points are near red line on tach
3. no unusuall noises
4. Engine is 6.5 Turbo diesle (runs great)
5. trans model is 4L80E
6. no slipping of any gear
7. ATF & filter change recent
With these symptoms what should I look at as a possible fix? The shift points are in high RPM's, but thal gears work, even the 4th O.D.
Thanks for any hints you can give.
Louis
the transmission will not shift out of 2nd to 3 or 4th...
but when this happens both vehicles have the ANTI-BRAKE light indicator lite on the dash but when the light goes out they both start shifting again.
Got a problem with the tail lights on a 1990 Chevy K1500 that started about 1.5 weeks ago. Brake lights and turn signals are also affected. Here are the symptoms:
Headlight switch on: tail lights/brake lights not working, turn signals (front or rear) not working. Turn signals blink one time and then quit.
Headlight switch off: brake lights and turn signals work if not used at same time. When the tranny is in reverse, the tail lights come on. Back-up lights do not work.
Using turn signals with brake pedal depressed causes alternating blinking of tail lights.
I replaced the headlight switch on Sunday thinking that may be contributing to the problem -- no good (also did this because about a month ago, I noticed a small wisp of smoke coming from the headlight switch. Only saw it once, and no problems occurred until the current issue.).
One other thing to mention: Several months ago I had to remove the bed. A trailer light wiring harness had been spliced into the rear light wiring harness. All wires were pulled apart accidentally. I re-connected the rear wiring using standard splicing connectors and everything worked fine until last week. Not sure if this is contributing to the issue. I did not reconnect trailer wiring harness.
Would like to try and fix this myself. Thanks for any advice.
WC
I hope this helps you, and good luck m8.
kcram - Pickups Host
Thank you.
We have a 2004 3500 with dual gas tanks. It seems that noone (dealer, mechanics) can tell us how the tanks actually feed the engine. Do they feed equally, in that if both are filled they should empty at about the same rate? Will it cause a problem if one is filled and the other is let run dry? Does the fuel system require that each tank have fuel?
We typically fill each tank equally; 10 gallons in each, or fill both at the same time. This is probably the best thing to do but it would be nice if we knew what was actually going on in there.
Any insight on this would be greatly appreciated.
Regards