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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair
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I have a 74' Chevy pickup & I'm going to buy a reman. 350 motor plus tranny for it. My question(s)are: What will I need to do/buy to get the truck to fire right up? I also want it to run quieter, or at least sound quieter & not like a Harley coming down the road. Not that I mind Harleys... just not when it's a pickup.
Any & all suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Rene' :shades:
Starts fine then when you shut it off and try to restart
the truck won't start again, cracks,
but no fuel coming out of the injectors.
What is going on ?
I've heard that some relays in the wiper motor have bad solders on the board. Is this my problem? and if so, what do I specifically need to solder?
You need someone to assist you that knows how to bring up oil pressure before firing the engine, how to check/set initial timing, how to properly break-in the new cam etc.
In short, you furnish the grunt power and let them furnish the knowledge to do the job properly.
Good luck
Anyway, I replaced the fuel pump relay. No dice. I checked the fuse, the temperature sensor. No dice. I checked the plugs, wires and distributor - bad!. These were replaced. The truck started. The next day, 3 starts and it stopped at an intersection. Tow it back and try the fuel filter. It started. Now, I will run it awhile tomorrow and see what happens and keep you posted. You guys with the "it just won't start" know that when you find the problem, hopefully it is fixed. The yes it will, no it won't is very frustrating. Other than that, when it runs,it runs very smooth without any smoke, etc.
Truck has been tuned up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, timing, airfilter), new water pump, new fan clutch, new belt and idler. None of this effected the performance.
Is this the sign of a catalytic converter problem? I was thinking of changing the O2 sensor, EGR (for the rough idle) and maybe the CAT. Just didn't want to start shotgunning things.
Truck has 120K miles on it, and everything is original (sensors and stuff).
Any help or clues greatly appreciated.
My cruise control doesn’t respond as I engage it. Don’t know if it’s vacuum or electrical. I like to trouble shoot it and find out why it takes so long to engage or sometime doesn’t want to respond at all, this problem is intermediate.
Can I change from TBI to Fuel Injection by just changing the manifold or do I have to do other changes to it. I have 188899 mile on it and soon looking to rebuild it.
Thanks
Yesterday, I was able to get the floor gear into nuetral, and then it went into drive, but today eveything is locked up. Any ideas?
I am not saying it IS the knock sensor, it is just that the electronic timing controls do require constant input about retarding/advancing to meet current conditions and the knock sensor is one of the primary controls of that operation. I think they also depend on the temperature sensors, the mass airflow sensor, and the 02 sensor(s). The 02 sensors, if failing, always pulled codes on my Subaru and the one time I had a problem with the MAS it caused stalling (w/ no code) - not idle issues (in other words, it ran perfectly until it stalled at a stoplight, etc).
I am not familiar with "dexcool." If the truck does run fine for a while after a reset, then perhaps something is causing the timing to artificially advance. It is apparent to me that the problem does not lie with the cam sensor itself... it is either not receiving a regular signal from the position marker on the cam or it is receiving bogus input from another sensor. Unfortunately OBDII does not always isolate the problem correctly and these electronic machines are really a nightmare to ferret out by traditional means. :mad: