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Chevy C/K Series Maintenance and Repair



  • dpsinnhdpsinnh Posts: 1
    Check the 02 sensor. I Had that problem on a chevy. Also, you might need a software update.
  • bobm7bobm7 Posts: 1
    I have a DTC reading that says crank position not learned I replaced the crank sensor and still have the same DTC reading.
  • mars1mars1 Posts: 2
    This is a long shot but I had a "clank" noise from the rear on my Sierra 2500HD when hitting bumps. It turned out to be that there are plastic pads that cushion sections of the leaf springs. The pads are
    about 3 inches in diameter and have a tab that snaps into a hole in the leaves. Two of my pads were missing. I made homemade replacements from some plastic material I have in my shop and voila, cured. Since that time I have been checking out other people's 2500s and many if not most have one or more pads missing. Seems to be a design flaw. Easy to replace.

  • rusnakrusnak Posts: 1

    Any luck on the check engine light/erg code issure? I am having the same problem with my '93 Z71 with a 350 engine. Was it the erg valve or something else? Thanks

  • miva03miva03 Posts: 2
    Hello I am a new member of the Chevy truck family and I have a 1985 Silverado that I am having issues with the idle and dieseling. I have already replaced some items: Air filter,PCV Valve, Cleaned the Carburator with Gumout, Idle Stop Solenoid, and checked vacuum lines(some). Does anyone have any advice of what I can check next. I think it may be a timing problem but I am unsure. PLEASE HELP it is driving me nuts. THANKS, BILL
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,149
    I agree it is probably timing and/or fuel/air mixture. My truck ('69 C20) is very sensitive to this as well. In fact, if any one has ideas for my "issue" that I will mention below, perhaps they can chime in.

    If I set the timing as suggested, it has no power. I mean, this thing will ping at the lightest hint of acceleration under load. However, if I set the timing as suggested, then turn the fuel air mix off and 1/2 turn, and finally adjust just until the idle runs smooth, I can retard the timing about 5 degrees and it runs like a champ with no "dieseling." The idle is not quite as smooth with the timing retarded, but overall the truck runs better. After a tank at 55 mph, I pull of about 13 mpg (307), normal driving nets me 11. If I set the timing as suggested I can get up to 14 at 55 mph, but it takes me forever to get to speed and pings on every hill unless I back waaaaay off.

    There is not a whole lot of vacuum on this truck (no EPA stuff in '69), but what is there is working fine.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • miva03miva03 Posts: 2
    Thanks for the input and I will work on that next. I know it can be very frustrating and it seems like you can never get it just right. THANKS AGAIN
  • volts10volts10 Posts: 1
    Can someone explain to me :mad: how to change the ignition switch in a 1990 Chevy van with automatic transmission? Thanks!
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Since this is the pickups discussion, you'll probably get better info at one of these two discussions:

    Got a Quick, Technical Question?

    Full Sized Vans

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • drew6drew6 Posts: 3
    I own a 1985 c20 w/ a 4 speed and it whisles and hines like crazy when it is in motion, not all of the time, and usually around 60mph it will kick in for sure. if I push the clutch pedal down or put it in neutral it still goes, but only gets louder if it is in gear and acclelerating or if I down shift and raise rpms. I am stumped has anyone else heard of this?
    I also have a problem with dieseling how do I adjust the feul air mix?
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,149
    I had a problem with a whine like you described for a while, and it definitely seemed to be linked to the clutch system. I lubed the bushings on the clutch linkage and it went away, but it would also go away if I put pressure on the clutch pedal as well. So, maybe I am barking up the wrong tree here.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • drew6drew6 Posts: 3
    Sounds pretty close, I may have just let it go too far. I just spent a load of money having bearings and things put in i also put in a clutch kit, It is not making the noise yet, but I will wait and see
  • phonemanphoneman Posts: 1
    Have a 1989 Scotsdale 1500 4x4. With a different motor.350, what year ?? I am having what i think might be fuel/air issues. the truck seems like it's always groaning for air. I have had lots of bucking and popping at low speeds doing larger inclines. occassionally it will stall right out from a stop. The carb is a large 2-barrel
    with two fuel injectors on top ( each side has 2 wires going into the top of the fuel
    injector assemble) It looks to me as if to much fuel is coming out as i look down the card throat.More like a heavy spray as appossed to it misting out.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,149
    What kind of an air intake do you have on it? Stock? You may consider (for a cheap fix) pulling the lid off the filter housing and cutting three large openings out of the sides (to make it look like a plate supported by a tripod) so it breathes better. I did this on mine and it was like night and day, the difference. I have to replace the filters more frequently, but the extra power is well worth it. I change out the filters at the beginning of every summer, but I only run 1-2K per year on it. I could probably get away with a 5K replacement interval pretty easy.
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • tat79tat79 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 silverado 4x4 and last summer it was doing the same thing. I had just bought it so the dealership fixed it so i cant tell you the cost, its a sensor thats gone in the sending unit and the box does not have to come off.
  • pan1pan1 Posts: 2
    I'm replacing the original radio and am trying to find where the speaker wires connect to it. I've removed the cassette player and it's plug from the radio receiver (behind the ashtray), which leaves one other plug. The front speaker wire color coding doesn't match the wires in the other plug at all. Does anybody know where the speaker wires connect into the radio system?

    I've checked Chilton book, but it has no wiring for the radio system, and a call to the local Chevy dealership service department was no help. The gentleman I talked to said he didn't know and they had no wiring diagrams. When I asked him how they worked on them, he said they had access to computerized diagrams, but tyey would not let customers look at them.

    Pretty different from how I've been treated by Toyota and Chrysler, both of whom have been very open when I needed similar info. And me in the market for another truck in the next year or so....
  • pan1pan1 Posts: 2
    I found part of the answer, the color code of all the speaker wires, but still need to know where they connect.

    Here's what I found so far, hope it helps someone else as much as me!

    First click on the appropriate year for your truck, then make sure that you select the "normal size" icon, otherwise you won't be able to see it.
  • bobbo1963bobbo1963 Posts: 2
    After talking it over with Chevy Transmission mechanic he suggested that the pressure plate may have been bad. So I took it all apart and exchanged it. Put it all together and ...nothing. Same problem. after comparing the master cylinder clutch engagement rods I noticed that they the new one was 3/16 of an inch shorter. Couldn't use the the old one because the plastic that connected it to the clutch was busted. Cut off a the nubbin at the end of the old one and put it in the slot for the master cylinder and voila it works fine. a Month 1/2 wasted because the auto parts store sold me the wrong stuff. I don't fee bad exchanging a perfectly good clutch with them because of that. Bad part was Chevy doesn't offer the connector rod seperately any more so I had to purchase the whole master cylinder.
  • kingbuckkingbuck Posts: 2
    I've got a 1996 C/K 1500 4x4 with the Vortec and 236 thousand k's on it. On top of all the problems I have had with it, my latest is that it will not start when it is cold. :cry: I have replaced the cap,rotor, spark plugs and wires also the fuel filter and I have had compression test done but no one can find anything. After it gets running and it warms up it's fine, will start every time. :confuse: Any help would be great.
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,149
    Will not start when what is cold? The truck? The air temperature? If it is the air temperature, at about what temp do you start noticing the problem?
    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • 85chevysb85chevysb Posts: 4
    hey guys, i have an 85 chev short box, store it every winter for the last 12 years, well this spring i went to put the battery back in and as soon as i tighten the last battery lead the wiring on the firewall started smoking and it popped one of the fusable links. i pulled the starter and checked it, thought that maybe the headers had killed it, or melted the wires to it but everything looks good. anyone have any ideas? the nice weather is back and i want to show off my ride.... :(
  • kingbuckkingbuck Posts: 2
    The out side temp, I don't think matters. It can be 50 degrees out or it can be 80 out. As long as the truck sits for, lets say 1 hour or longer it will not won't to start.
    If I drive to the corner store, shut the truck off, go in and come out. The truck starts right up. But if it sits forget it. :lemon:
  • nsinoguinsinogui Posts: 1
    I need help I have a chevy 1990 van MARK III, and I need to know the time settings for it. Can you help???
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Replace the throttlebody base gasket. They are a common problem. After time the gasket gets eaten away allowing air to be pulled into the intake manifold.

    Bet it starts lousy, too.

    Good luck,
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    Since this is the discussion for C/K pickups, you'll probably get faster answers over at the Maintenance and Repair Board.

    kcram - Pickups Host
  • pnakingpnaking Posts: 1
    I recently purchase a 1980 C20 for a buddy. Runs great, need a little body work. Anyway, I failed idle part of the Utah state emissions test. I was idleing at 960 and read a 2.98, I need to be at 2.00 or lower. The mechanic told me that if I adjusted the jet all the way in until it started missing and let them out 3/4 turn or so it should take can of it. First, will this, or anything else accually help, and second....where the heck are the jet adjustments screw located. It is a stock 350 with what should be the stock 2-barrel carb. I have found the idle and fast idle adjustments, on the left and right side of the card respectfully, but thats it. Any help would be great!!

  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,149
    This is just a shot in the dark here, but is it possible that you have a fuel pressure problem? Perhaps a backflow valve or something is bad that is allowing the fuel lines to depressurize when the vehicle is turned off, and it is not allowing the rig to start due to lack of pressure. Most electric fuel pumps activate when the key is in the "ON" position, so maybe if you turn the truck to "ON" and wait for 10 seconds before attempting to start, it will help. If it doesn't, then probably not the fuel pressure. Again, just a thought.

    Another possibility might be an airflow sensor, but if the vehicle is not recording any codes, that one might be tougher to ferret out!

    Good luck.

    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • xwesxxwesx Fairbanks, AlaskaPosts: 11,149
    This is coming from a '69 owner, but the jets on the 2 bbl are on the VERY bottom of the front of the carbeurator - and they are not very big! Turn both completely to the left to shut off, then 1/2 turn to the right as a starting point. If you start the engine and use the throttle linkage on the carb to keep the motor running while you tinker, you should be able to adjust the screws 1/4 turn (to the right) at a time until you just get a smooth idle. Then adjust the low idle speed down to around 600 rpm. I always do this when the engine is warm, but not sure if that is the "proper" way.

    2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2008 and 2013 Subaru Forester(s), 1969 Chevrolet C20 Pickup, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250 Pickup
  • 85chevysb85chevysb Posts: 4
    hey bud, with the older chev rochestor carbs, the jet screws were covered over in aluminum and you will need to drill the plug out before you will be able to adjust them. i can't tell you off hand where abouts they would be on your carb but went through the same with an old pick up i had, and a buddy of mine just had the same thing happen to him. any good machanic should be able to tell you where you can locate the plugs to drill out to locate your jet screws.

    good luck!
  • gordo45gordo45 Posts: 1
    Changed from a 350 to a 305 - installed a prom for a 305 -new injectors, plugs , caps, wires, etc Engine service light is on and the engine
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