No im not. I think i can handle doing that. Damn why is everyone so upset i am having my nerf bars installed? Who cares if its by me or joe smo. Chill out guys.
Oh yea but i will go to the full serve at the gas station.
Not like I really want to beat a dead horse, but I am close to pulling the trigger on nerf bars as well. The Westin's look nice and seem to be the bar of choice, but the bars on the gm goodwrench site are listed as anodized aluminum. Aluminum is pretty attractive to me as I had some Smitty Built double tube bumpers on my Trooper that damn near rusted out of the box.
Any thoughts on this...
I also figured out a good use for the "rear AC control tahoe / suburban blank off panel". I may mount my Garmin GPS-3+ in there and wire it to an external antenna either on the dash or outside on top of the cab right by the rear brake light. I'd only really have it there in the winter 'cause the GPS lives on the boat during the summer months.
Both Hubby and I have other things we want to do with our time..cap, bedlinner, running boards, and bug catcher are being down by others..oh and the oil jobs will be done at the dealer. (Hubby is a Tool and Die maker, so it's not as if he couldn't if he wanted to). For the $17.95, let them mess with..I just want to use the time in the truck and to enjoy riding in and pulling the trailer to go camping. Heck, just so you really know how I would rather spend my time...I don't even wash it myself..each to their own, on how they want to spend their leasure time.
I have a 2000 Silverado, 4x4, 5.3, regular cab. At almost any constant speed, a moderately loud, high pitched whistle is present. As soon as I back off the throttle, the noise ceases. Common sense tells me that this is engine speed related, but, then, common sense often goes out the window when related to automotive related irritants. The dealer says that they do not know of a fix, and GM technical service has not been able to help. If any of you can help, I will be eternally grateful. My apoligies if this has previously been discussed at this site.
No Wind Noise, No Headlight Reflection, hell I can't even see the bug guard from my seat, It stands off enough to get a sponge behind to wash, but watch the tops of your fingers evidentally the hood side edge is a little on the sharp side I peeled some skin washing behind it the other day, boy did that smart, blood all over my new truck!! A little 120 sandpaper remedied that problem.
I have a 2000 Silverado, 4x4, 5.3, regular cab. At almost any constant speed, a moderately loud, high pitched whistle is present. As soon as I back off the throttle, the noise ceases. Common sense tells me that this is engine speed related, but, then, common sense often goes out the window when related to automotive related irritants. The dealer says that they do not know of a fix, and GM technical service has not been able to help. If any of you can help, I will be eternally grateful. My apoligies if this has previously been discussed at this site.
Hmmm what about the door? I mean u know where all the buttons are for the locks and windows i noticed this weekend in my dads 2000 blazer that alot of air goes through there (my hand was on the door where the locks and stuff are) it froze my hand so much cold air came through there. Maybe somehow some air is getting through ur doorhand. Just an idea i dont know this for sure my dads didnt make noise just let alot of air through
guaranteed for as long as I own the truck, I have a feeling they'll be replacing it once in my trucks lifetime I usually keep my truck for 10-12 years unless of course I win the lottery, yea right!
Was looking at bed caps over the weekend and got to wondering if typical rear door on most caps would close and seal properly over the top of the factory extended tailgate protector.
Seems to me you would have to remove the factory protector and install a simple plastic or metal lip protector and then the cap door would close and seal against the face of the tailgate. Asked the salesman and of course, he didn't have a clue.
Saw a Silverado yesterday with a Leer cap and sure enough, they had removed the factory protector to get the cap door to close against the gate. They hadn't installed any other type of cover, so the guy had the factory holes exposed on the outside of the gate - looked like hammered dogpoop.
I'm looking at Leer, Raven or ARE caps. Anybody got any input on this?
Some makers of tailgate covers make longer ones to cover the holes when you remove the factory one. Look around. Putco.com has a nice selection of Stainless and Diamond plate tailgate covers.
Ryan, You kill us ace....keep up the good work. So it's ordered now eh?
As for washing it every 3 days....that will get old...trust me. In spring/summer I wash it with water only and dry with a chamois...(or however ya spell it). It takes a long time....but looks good. Winter I ain't standing out there....and do it your self washes don't get the dirt off...unless you use the scratch-em-up brush from hell. So I find a few good drive thru washes that cost more...but are worth it. Anywhere from $7-12 a wash though..
Oil changes.....I used to always do it myself...but the first two with this one have been at the dealer. First one was free...and second one I was pushed for time. So we will see what happens next one?
But as for nerf bars...if you pay to have them put on....we are gonna have to raz the hell outa ya Babs!
I got the Leer Model 122, it's the highest cap they make which I need all the head room I can get. Comes w/third brake light & dome light that works w/2 c batteries. The cap dealer removes the "whale tail" & installs a flat version so cap seals against tailgate that was part of my installation. I paid $1113 inc. tax & installation with rear slider & color matched. It is one sharp looking cap & I've seen them on both Ford & Dodge also, they look good on all.
You should be able to install the nerf's yourself, it took me an hour to do the driver side but I was working lying on my back and by myself. Tim is muuuuch older then I so he used the lift & friends. LOL
Washing...yea I've washed mine a few times already but I have the convenience of doing it at the firehouse I belong to so it's inside using WARM water.
Oil changes....well here's a good one for ya, the dealer I cancelled with after waiting 14 weeks without a allotment was so apologetic (I had bought 2 previous trucks from him) gave me one year of free maintenance so he will do my first few oil changes then I'll do myself. He still wants my business & with that type of treatment he'll get it.
I was just looking on www.gmpowertrain.com at the torque curves for the 4.8L and the 5.3L. I had looked at them once before when the '99's were still in production and the peak numbers were lower. In fact I printed them out at that time. Now, comparing to the new updated 2000 engines torque curves, I see a pretty drastic difference in the 5.3L, and I'm not sure it's for the better. If you have a '99 with a 5.3L or a 4.8L and are regretting (and/or resenting) not getting the 2000's more horsepower, stop it. The '99's actually have quite a bit more torque and horsepower up until 3000 rpm (normal driving for most people). Only above 3000 rpm do the 2000's start to shine. I have no idea why GM would have made that change. They tuned the new 5.3L to be more like a sportscar engine, which is fine if you bought your truck to race, but not so great otherwise. The new 4.8L is also changed similarly but not nearly as drastic. Is there anyone out there that has owned both the '99 and the 2000 with the 5.3L? Did you notice a difference in the low-end power? If one can believe the torque curves, it should be quite noticeable.
If you'd like to see the '99 torque curves and compare them to the new ones on gmpowertrain.com, email me and I'll send you scanned in photos of the '99 torque curves. I don't have a webpage yet (working on it), but if someone else wants to put them on theirs, that would be great. I have to leave now, but I'll be back later this evening.
-powerisfun
P.S. I'm not trying to stir things up here. If you own a 2000 with 5.3L (or just ordered one), you alone can tell whether it has the torque profile that fits you. There's a lot to love about a high-revving engine, but I just thought I'd let the '99 owners know that they're not necessarily missing anything (and may perhaps be better off).
Sounds like you got a better deal on the Leer 122 than what I've been quoted. I've been looking at the 100LE and 100XL. The 100LE with 3rd brake light, 12volt dome light, installed and tax was quoted at nearly $1200 by 2 dealers here in Houston.
The 100XL was quoted at nearly $1300. I would think the 122 you got would be even more $ since its the taller cap. I'll make a few more calls.
Looked at the Leer website and got a Leer brochure, and did see the flat lip cap.
Did you find that installing the cap made any noticeable difference in your MPG, good or bad? I've always heard that the above cab height caps would really cut down the MPG, so was curious.
what gears are you running in the rear? 4.10,3.73.... is the noise comming from the lower area of the cab or the middle area? how many miles are on your truck?
I see most people do not wash there trucks to much in the winter (don't blame you either) I could not swallow paying 7-12 dollar for a automatic car wash (plus they scratch no matter what they say). So i bought a pressure washer, It does not make it 100% clean like hand washing but it does a pretty decent job. Plus when your truck is real dirty you do not scratch the s*it out of it hand washing it by grinding the dirt around the paint, the best deal i found was a home depot. They have these "rebuilt ones"(i beleive the one i got is model # 1750) that must have been a returned item from someone, or maybe a display item. Anyways it is brand spanking new no scratches no oil, dry gas tank all accesories included for $145 versus 290-300 for the "never used ones" It comes in the original box and all. Warranty you ask?? same as the "new ones" except home depot fixes it instead of sending it back to the manufacturer (which is a plus in my opinion, you know they will most likely give you another one instead of fixing it) Anyways hope that helps some of you, plus you can use it to clean your house and deck and all that other stuff you are supposed to working on instead of cleaning your truck. Cam
wight wrote:wondering if typical rear door on most caps would close and seal properly over the top of the factory extended tailgate protector. ---------------------- The leer cap we were looking at just depended on the what you got with it for the price. We got one price (with light, liner, 3rd brake light) from the person who shows them, then talked with the boss and he came down $200.We liked the Leer cap and was planning on ordering it, til we looked at the A.R.E. new one that just came out (just for shortbeds so far). Love the locks on it, and the recessed windows were nicer, and the warrantee is longer for the paint, and it was just a really nice cap.We were able to look at one of each side by side, and Leer looks like it may lose. It was pricier (ARE), but did get another place a little further away to come down a little. Now we are back to thinking about it. Both would be replacing the whale strip on the back with another for a small fee.
I have no idea what a 99 5.3 is like, all I know is my Y2k 5.3 could easily smoke the tires at any time from a stop. I don't know if the published torque specs are all that accurate nor if J.Q. Public would notice. Possibly a difference may be present while hauling a heavy load, but again, would the driver actually feel the difference, or would just be easier on the engine. Who knows!!
Washing: Hey Ryan, the washing every 3 days or less will certainly wear off shortly especially when the weather doesn't co-operate. But go for it, at the beginning almost everyone does. Why spend 30 grand for something (us Canadians would have to spend 40) and have it look like 2 grand just because you don't keep it clean. I always use some kind of carwash soap when I wash my vehicles, I find that even if you don't have time to completely dry the thing, the waterspotting is really minimized. By the way, the truck you ordered is Indigo Blue, right? Hey Vince4, where you been lately. I just started with a new ISP and apparently I have some webspace as part of the service. Guess I better learn how to use it.
I always wash mine in the winter. Hook up the warm water in the basement then when im done i pull it in the garage turn on the heater and dry it it works great kind of a pain but it keeps the trucks free of salt and prevents rusting. I do notmind it at all i actually like taking a few hrs and washing cars (dont ask me why maybe im wierd).
Tim not to be mean but how old r u? My dad is 45 just to let u know.
Just got back from the toyota dealer haha went out to eat with my grandparents and my grandpa went car shopping had to rub it in the dealers face i just ordered a silverado.
Yeah car soap does make a difference....dish soap will take the wax off in one washing.
As for automated cash washes..aka drive thru...scratching?>...The cheap $2-3 ones might...as they are usually the older less maintained ones. The most expensive one here I know of for Outside only is about $8.00...that gives wax..sealer...under side...etc. The $12 ones are the same wash....but they pull the car over and clean the inside as well. I usually go for outside only.
Ryan, yeah...I have hot water in the garage as well as a unit heater...but in winter...the hell with hand washing. When I hand wash I use water only...and hold a running hose right above where I am washing all the time to allow the dirt to flow off....instead of grinding it in. Now even in summer that water makes your hands pretty cold. Forget it in the Michigan Winter.
I'm 33 Ryan...so about 5 more years older...and I could be your dad...as i said...almost. ..Course down south....maybe I'm the right age?
And as for professional install of nerf bars...I'm not sure I'd let any dealer of any kind install something on my truck. Todays help doesn't give a hoot and might even skip some brackets to save time. Do it yourself Ryan....you will feel more satisfaction...
YOU CAN DO IT!!!
...I washed the truck today.....gonna take some pictures tomorrow of the complete accessories I got on it.....IF the weather holds out?
Bill, You need an FTP program like CuteFTP...or Frontpage to transfer pictures to your web space. You also need to ask them what your IP address is and what passwords to use. they also have to activate it.....But that's all!
About the tundra thing no actually i went with them to drive by the chevy dealer to show them a truck like i am getting they said its to big and i showed then its not all that big. I wouldnt even consider a tundra but the echo on the other hand........
You kids have worn Mr. Ryan out. Come Pick on Me. It's good to see some new blood. Find something to do with your time besides contemplating paint schemes, nerf configs, gosh i forgot about brush/grill guards. None of you bad 4x4's thought of that yet. You know, we're always chasin in the brush. Christ, I got this I got that. Do you? Have any of you torn down an engine, made it better, made a frame better? If so, thats great. Lets discuss how to make this truck better. I love getting my hands dirty. BTW I'm a ME from KU. I would post more but this has become the gab fest for Silverados.
Thanks for your response numbers 277 and 285. Chevrolet and the dealer do not think the noise is resulting from air movement through or around the truck. However, since they obviously do not have a clue, I won't rule this out.
In response to duman, 4.10 gear and 1000 miles on the odometer. It is difficult (if not impossible) to pinpoint the noise location because it seems to be everywhere in the cab at steady speeds under throttle. The truck has a sliding back window (I doubt that Chevrolet calls it that, but I hope you know what I mean), and the noise is much more pronounced with the window open. This is, incidentally, my fourth new Chevrolet truck in the past five years, and this is the first problem I have encountered that the dealer has not been able to fix. (They have had it in their shop twice and now admit that they do not know where to go from here.)
Very stupid of Chevy to put this on in my opinion, especially since they didn't put caps on all the bed rails. When I get mine I am going to take the cap off and shoot some blind rivets in the screw holes, shave them flush, and then touch up the paint. Hell maybe I'll even get the spray on liner guys to wrap the liner around to cover that area, but I would have to see how that would look. After having a bad drop in liner on my old truck, I've seen how the paint gets torn up by the plastic when it moves around, and I don't want the same thing to happen to the tailgate. For those of you having the two tone paint carried on to the tailgate, this would be a perfect time to have the body shop fill those holes too. Just make sure they use blind rivets, or something like that. I think some shops might just try to slap some bondo in the holes, and that would surely be noticeable, especially when the summer heat shrinks the bondo. Just my two cents.
rcoos, left all my money in your town (Las Vegas), no supercharger now. Babbler, counting down the minutes eh? One question, will you be wearing your ballcap on backwards when you drive? Jeff, ya want to be the new boy eh? Well ya gotta post more often so we can size ya up and then poke some fun!
Ordered my Suburban sun visors yesterday, going to install them in my Silverado. I measured everything and if you look in the Suburbans they actually have a "plug" where one of the Silverado brackets would be. Met with the bodyshop guy and he told me there is a metal plate that runs the entire length of the windsheild and the Suburban bracket will mount to it fine. Looks like the main holding point screw holes will match up with the existing holes. I am going to take pictures as I do it.
I had the same idea about just having the spray on bedliner guys just wrap the liner around to cover the bolt holes. I wonder if anybody has tried that and how it looks. Seems like it would have been better to have the whaletail fasteners on the inside of the gate.
I have found the tailgate protector to come in quite handy. There have been times when I had to lug a bunch of lumber and ladders. These items where longer than the bed and sat on the tailgate protector with the tailgate up. The protector kept the items when they bounced from banging up the tailgate. Also I have heard that the lip on the protector helps keep the air currents down keeping the back of the tailgate from collecting dust.
Please let us know how that works out, and maybe post those pictures. I'm assuming the suburban sunvisors have extenders on them? My old S-10 had them, and I loved them. Can't understand why they are not on the Silverados.
okay, id be willing to bet a small amount that you also have a locker. i had the same problem, i am a real do-it-yourselfer and that same noise bugged me as well. i put my '00 1500 z71 w/ 4.10 and a locker on my friends dynamo and discovered that the whining noise came from the rear diff. during breakin this is sometimes normal. i checked the fluid and the level was fine(i recomend you do the same, just to be safe). the niose started at about 40mph and remained constant under load upto and through 85mph. I decided to let the truck run its course through 5k and then see how shes fairing. with time and miles ive noticed that the niose has began to subside but is still there. In all honesty i am taking this as a good sign (indicating that the contact pattern is aligned properly) and the result will be a strong and long rear-end. If you find that the noise increases or you begin to feel a SIGNIFICANT knock or thump when applying pwr on the highway(after coasting 1or 2 seconds), take her in to a trusted srvc dept under the premise of changing the rear diff fluid. watch them do it and inspect the old fluid for large metal splinters and shavings. remember that some is to be expected but not a lot. good luck and try not to worry. give it some time... it should go away, if not .... its under warranty, right?(ha ha)
{ << I've noticed on 2 or 3 occasions that when I pull up to a red light, something in the transmission seems to disengage. Then when I take off at the green light, the transmission slips for 3/4 of a second before re-engaging.>>
Mine did this for the first time today. 2000 LT 5.3/4.10's approx 1800 miles on it. Let me know what your dealer has to say. }
I talked with the dealer's service dept today ( Brown & Brown Chevrolet, Mesa Az ). He told me GM has a service bulletin and to bring my truck in so can replace the transfer case fluid. He said they currently use a red fluid and are changing to a blue fluid. He didn't give any specifics on the differences, only the color.
The noise will go away for about 10,000 miles, then it will come back again (at least it did for me). I'm told it doesn't hurt anything, its just a little annoying.
I've actually ignored it for the last 4 or 5k miles and it seems to be going away again on its own. Maybe I'm just used to it now.
Thanks for your post number 302. I know the service manager well enough to get the rear diff. fluid changed, and I'll have that done next week and observe the metal shavings (if any). Chevrolet tech. service called the dealer just before noon today and indicated that they had experienced some similar problems resulting from ring gear and/or real axle bearing related problems. I hope your observation that patience is a virtue and that the problem will go away of its own accord.
At least I feel as if I am making some progress. I'll let you know.
In my last post, I should have said "I hope your observation that patience is a virtue is correct and the problem will go away of its own accord." Now to the important stuff: I just re-read your post 302 wherein you talk about having a "locker". Are you referring to a limited slip rear? If yes, I don't think the truck is so equipped. I should know, since I ordered it, but I don't. If you are referring to something else, please specify. Let me know, and I'll get back to you. (That is, if you don't give up on dealing with an automotive nerd.)
I have a 98 extcab z71, loaded, and am thinking of trading on a new 2000 silverado. My question for any Silverado owners, is on the Z71 package, do they still use the 265 tires like on mine? How about any known problems I'd be looking at? Has anyone experienced losing any motor oil between changes on the 5.3? How about auto transmission fluid? What's the reported average gas mileage on the 5.3? Any info you all can provide is greatly appreciated. THanks.......
sorry for the delay.......there are not many true stock "lockers" out there. the term "locker" refers to a locking rear or front differential whereby power is equally distributed to both wheels. this provides better traction especially in 2wd and rainy or snowy conditions. a limited slip differential has clutch type mechanisms in the differential itself, in theory this will transfer power from one wheel to another depending on which wheel has the best traction. a locking rear differential is usually the reason why some people will hear a "knocking" or "clicking" noise when they turn corners on hard surfaceslike asphalt, especially at slow speeds. it also could be the reason for the "whining" noise under power. bottom line....... locking diff. -pwr to both wheels all the time... limited slip diff. - pwr to one wheel at a time.
I can't believe it. I just backed into one of those little yellow posts in a parking lot. Barely (or so it seemed) hit it, but it buckled the bumper. I hit it with the corner of the bumper, so it is bowed in the middle.
To replace the bumper, just the chrome part, it will be 413.90 plus a little labor and tax. All told, $484.38. I could have gotten a used one, but it would have only saved me $50.
Won't you consider an aftermarket for that price? You might even find a tougher one for that price. Those factory ones are made of thin sheet metal,if you look at them wrong they'll dent or bend. If it was me, for close to 500 bucks I'd find me a heavier duty one.
Tim...Thanks for the info re posting to my webspace. Now all I have to do is sort all this crap out and learn how to do it. Hard to teach an old dog new tricks you know.
Tailgate Protector....I have had many chevys before, that had just the round edge at the top of the gate. The "caps" you could cover them with never fit too great but did protect the top of the gate somewhat. What I really like about the new one on my Y2k is that it gives you a real handhold, when you are closing the gate, especially if you are using only one hand. On the old styles, you would grab the thing with your fingers and just before closing would have to twist your palm around to slam it shut. This of course now puts a ginormaus (pronounced Jie normous) smudge on your nice clean tailgate. Personally, I prefer the new style much more comfortable to use.
chevyck1.......I had a 98 Silverado prior to this one and I can honestly say I find there to be a noticeable difference. Especially in the seating. I find the seat much superior to the old truck. I read in some review of the new chevys where the guy said the old truck seat was like sitting on a pile of laundry. I chuckle about this because he hit it right on the money, compared to the Y2k, that's exactly how I remembe it. This is the first time I have sprung for the "Power" seat option and I won't be without it again. The engine (mine is a 5.3) is a lot snappier than my old 350 and so far it looks like the fuel mileage will also be better.I also have the Compass/Temperature readout mirror (Talk about blowing the bundle) which although is a bit of a gimmick, I like it. Especially if I ever get lost, and completely forget how to read a map, or ask somebody directions. Oh well, I like the thing. All in all, I feel the Y2k is a much better truck than the previous CK design time will tell however, I'm one of the lucky one's that so far haven't run into any little gremlins with mine yet. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
I know this is one of those issues that has been exhausted, but I was wondering if anyone knows if all silverado extended cab production has been shifted to four door? My order for a 3/4 ton ex. cab. finally went thru ( TPW 3/27 ) and I would like to figure out if it will be a 3 or 4 door. My dealer says he is not sure which it is. I originally placed this order in early Oct. and my dealer finally got the allocation. I had just about given up.
I know this is one of those issues that has been exhausted, but I was wondering if anyone knows if all silverado extended cab production has been shifted to four door? My order for a 3/4 ton ex. cab. finally went thru ( TPW 3/27 ) and I would like to figure out if it will be a 3 or 4 door. My dealer says he is not sure which it is. I originally placed this order in early Oct. and my dealer finally got the allocation. I had just about given up.
Hi, I have a friend of mine who has a 99 Silverado. In one year she has put on 40000 miles on it for her work. This truck is not used to carry any weight etc. Her problems are as follows all of a sudden.. Drivers door hinges are broken, the steering column which absorbs shock in accident has to be replaced and the newest one is the ABS going on the blink. To repair she's looking at about $2,000. Dealer won't do a thing for her because they say she has exceeded the 3yr / 36K mileage.. For god's sake this truck just turned a year old.. Has anyone had any of these problems & what did you do? Ben
Comments
Oh yea but i will go to the full serve at the gas station.
Ryan
near rusted out of the box.
Any thoughts on this...
I also figured out a good use for the "rear AC control tahoe / suburban blank off panel". I may mount my Garmin GPS-3+ in there and wire it to an external antenna either on the dash or outside on top of the cab right by the rear brake light. I'd only really have it there in the winter 'cause the GPS lives on the boat during the summer
months.
-- Rock
Professor 2
Ryan
Ray T.
Professor 2
Ryan
Ray T.
Seems to me you would have to remove the factory protector and install a simple plastic or metal lip protector and then the cap door would close and seal against the face of the tailgate. Asked the salesman and of course, he didn't have a clue.
Saw a Silverado yesterday with a Leer cap and sure enough, they had removed the factory protector to get the cap door to close against the gate. They hadn't installed any other type of cover, so the guy had the factory holes exposed on the outside of the gate - looked like hammered dogpoop.
I'm looking at Leer, Raven or ARE caps. Anybody got any input on this?
Ryan,
You kill us ace....keep up the good work.
So it's ordered now eh?
As for washing it every 3 days....that will get old...trust me.
In spring/summer I wash it with water only and dry with a chamois...(or however ya spell it). It takes a long time....but looks good.
Winter I ain't standing out there....and do it your self washes don't get the dirt off...unless you use the scratch-em-up brush from hell. So I find a few good drive thru washes that cost more...but are worth it. Anywhere from $7-12 a wash though..
Oil changes.....I used to always do it myself...but the first two with this one have been at the dealer. First one was free...and second one I was pushed for time. So we will see what happens next one?
But as for nerf bars...if you pay to have them put on....we are gonna have to raz the hell outa ya Babs!
- Tim
The cap dealer removes the "whale tail" & installs a flat version so cap seals against tailgate that was part of my installation. I paid $1113 inc. tax & installation with rear slider & color matched. It is one sharp looking cap & I've seen them on both Ford & Dodge also, they look good on all.
Try www.leer.com for more info.
Ray T.
Washing...yea I've washed mine a few times already but I have the convenience of doing it at the firehouse I belong to so it's inside using WARM water.
Oil changes....well here's a good one for ya, the dealer I cancelled with after waiting 14 weeks without a allotment was so apologetic (I had bought 2 previous trucks from him) gave me one year of free maintenance so he will do my first few oil changes then I'll do myself. He still wants my business & with that type of treatment he'll get it.
Ray T.
If you have a '99 with a 5.3L or a 4.8L and are regretting (and/or resenting) not getting the 2000's more horsepower, stop it. The '99's actually have quite a bit more torque and horsepower up until 3000 rpm (normal driving for most people). Only above 3000 rpm do the 2000's start to shine. I have no idea why GM would have made that change. They tuned the new 5.3L to be more like a sportscar engine, which is fine if you bought your truck to race, but not so great otherwise. The new 4.8L is also changed similarly but not nearly as drastic.
Is there anyone out there that has owned both the '99 and the 2000 with the 5.3L? Did you notice a difference in the low-end power? If one can believe the torque curves, it should be quite noticeable.
If you'd like to see the '99 torque curves and compare them to the new ones on gmpowertrain.com,
email me and I'll send you scanned in photos of the '99 torque curves. I don't have a webpage yet (working on it), but if someone else wants to put them on theirs, that would be great. I have to leave now, but I'll be back later this evening.
-powerisfun
P.S. I'm not trying to stir things up here. If you own a 2000 with 5.3L (or just ordered one), you alone can tell whether it has the torque profile that fits you. There's a lot to love about a high-revving engine, but I just thought I'd let the '99 owners know that they're not necessarily missing anything (and may perhaps be better off).
The 100XL was quoted at nearly $1300. I would think the 122 you got would be even more $ since its the taller cap. I'll make a few more calls.
Looked at the Leer website and got a Leer brochure, and did see the flat lip cap.
Did you find that installing the cap made any noticeable difference in your MPG, good or bad? I've always heard that the above cab height caps would really cut down the MPG, so was curious.
...course I could be Ryans dad almost??
Cam
would close and seal properly over the top of the
factory extended tailgate protector.
----------------------
The leer cap we were looking at just depended on the what you got with it for the price. We got one price (with light, liner, 3rd brake light) from the person who shows them, then talked with the boss and he came down $200.We liked the Leer cap and was planning on ordering it, til we looked at the A.R.E. new one that just came out (just for shortbeds so far). Love the locks on it, and the recessed windows were nicer, and the warrantee is longer for the paint, and it was just a really nice cap.We were able to look at one of each side by side, and Leer looks like it may lose. It was pricier (ARE), but did get another place a little further away to come down a little. Now we are back to thinking about it. Both would be replacing the whale strip on the back with another for a small fee.
Washing: Hey Ryan, the washing every 3 days or less will certainly wear off shortly especially when the weather doesn't co-operate. But go for it, at the beginning almost everyone does. Why spend 30 grand for something (us Canadians would have to spend 40) and have it look like 2 grand just because you don't keep it clean.
I always use some kind of carwash soap when I wash my vehicles, I find that even if you don't have time to completely dry the thing, the waterspotting is really minimized.
By the way, the truck you ordered is Indigo Blue, right?
Hey Vince4, where you been lately. I just started with a new ISP and apparently I have some webspace as part of the service. Guess I better learn how to use it.
Bill.........Revitupfast
Tim not to be mean but how old r u? My dad is 45 just to let u know.
Just got back from the toyota dealer haha went out to eat with my grandparents and my grandpa went car shopping had to rub it in the dealers face i just ordered a silverado.
Ryan
Interesting.
Yeah car soap does make a difference....dish soap will take the wax off in one washing.
As for automated cash washes..aka drive thru...scratching?>...The cheap $2-3 ones might...as they are usually the older less maintained ones. The most expensive one here I know of for Outside only is about $8.00...that gives wax..sealer...under side...etc. The $12 ones are the same wash....but they pull the car over and clean the inside as well. I usually go for outside only.
Ryan,
yeah...I have hot water in the garage as well as a unit heater...but in winter...the hell with hand washing. When I hand wash I use water only...and hold a running hose right above where I am washing all the time to allow the dirt to flow off....instead of grinding it in. Now even in summer that water makes your hands pretty cold. Forget it in the Michigan Winter.
I'm 33 Ryan...so about 5 more years older...and I could be your dad...as i said...almost.
..Course down south....maybe I'm the right age?
And as for professional install of nerf bars...I'm not sure I'd let any dealer of any kind install something on my truck. Todays help doesn't give a hoot and might even skip some brackets to save time.
Do it yourself Ryan....you will feel more satisfaction...
YOU CAN DO IT!!!
...I washed the truck today.....gonna take some pictures tomorrow of the complete accessories I got on it.....IF the weather holds out?
Bill,
You need an FTP program like CuteFTP...or Frontpage to transfer pictures to your web space. You also need to ask them what your IP address is and what passwords to use. they also have to activate it.....But that's all!
- Tim
About the tundra thing no actually i went with them to drive by the chevy dealer to show them a truck like i am getting they said its to big and i showed then its not all that big. I wouldnt even consider a tundra but the echo on the other hand........
Ryan
It's good to see some new blood. Find something to do with your time besides contemplating paint schemes, nerf configs, gosh i forgot about brush/grill guards. None of you bad 4x4's thought of that yet. You know, we're always chasin in the brush. Christ, I got this I got that. Do you? Have any of you torn down an engine, made it better, made a frame better? If so, thats great.
Lets discuss how to make this truck better.
I love getting my hands dirty.
BTW I'm a ME from KU.
I would post more but this has become the gab fest for Silverados.
More so in younger years than recent years.
We have talked on making this truck better....sometimes we Babble...(especially Ryan)..hehehee....
And sometimes the conversation turns to this stuff.
But as Monty Python says.......
"If you don't like it.......don't watch!"
- Tim
In response to duman, 4.10 gear and 1000 miles on the odometer. It is difficult (if not impossible) to pinpoint the noise location because it seems to be everywhere in the cab at steady speeds under throttle. The truck has a sliding back window (I doubt that Chevrolet calls it that, but I hope you know what I mean), and the noise is much more pronounced with the window open. This is, incidentally, my fourth new Chevrolet truck in the past five years, and this is the first problem I have encountered that the dealer has not been able to fix. (They have had it in their shop twice and now admit that they do not know where to go from here.)
Again, thanks for your response.
Ordered my Suburban sun visors yesterday, going to install them in my Silverado. I measured everything and if you look in the Suburbans they actually have a "plug" where one of the Silverado brackets would be. Met with the bodyshop guy and he told me there is a metal plate that runs the entire length of the windsheild and the Suburban bracket will mount to it fine. Looks like the main holding point screw holes will match up with the existing holes. I am going to take pictures as I do it.
Mark
pull up to a red light, something in the
transmission seems to disengage. Then when I take
off at the green light, the transmission slips for
3/4 of a second before re-engaging.>>
Mine did this for the first time today. 2000 LT
5.3/4.10's approx 1800 miles on it. Let me know what your dealer has to say. }
I talked with the dealer's service dept today
( Brown & Brown Chevrolet, Mesa Az ).
He told me GM has a service bulletin and to bring my truck in so can replace the transfer case fluid. He said they currently use a red fluid and are changing to a blue fluid. He didn't give any specifics on the differences, only the color.
I guess its to the shop tomorrow.
Any thoughts ???
I've actually ignored it for the last 4 or 5k miles and it seems to be going away again on its own. Maybe I'm just used to it now.
At least I feel as if I am making some progress. I'll let you know.
Ryan
Hat backwards????? Why u asking this? I rarely wear my hat backwards only my CUBS (GO CUBS) hat when i wanna look cool
Ryan
To replace the bumper, just the chrome part, it will be 413.90 plus a little labor and tax. All told, $484.38. I could have gotten a used one, but it would have only saved me $50.
Keith.
(The truck isn't even 2 months old...)
You might even find a tougher one for that price.
Those factory ones are made of thin sheet metal,if you look at them wrong they'll dent or bend. If it was me, for close to 500 bucks I'd find me a heavier duty one.
Tailgate Protector....I have had many chevys before, that had just the round edge at the top of the gate. The "caps" you could cover them with never fit too great but did protect the top of the gate somewhat. What I really like about the new one on my Y2k is that it gives you a real handhold, when you are closing the gate, especially if you are using only one hand. On the old styles, you would grab the thing with your fingers and just before closing would have to twist your palm around to slam it shut. This of course now puts a ginormaus (pronounced Jie normous) smudge on your nice clean tailgate. Personally, I prefer the new style much more comfortable to use.
chevyck1.......I had a 98 Silverado prior to this one and I can honestly say I find there to be a noticeable difference. Especially in the seating. I find the seat much superior to the old truck. I read in some review of the new chevys where the guy said the old truck seat was like sitting on a pile of laundry. I chuckle about this because he hit it right on the money, compared to the Y2k, that's exactly how I remembe it. This is the first time I have sprung for the "Power" seat option and I won't be without it again. The engine (mine is a 5.3) is a lot snappier than my old 350 and so far it looks like the fuel mileage will also be better.I also have the Compass/Temperature readout mirror (Talk about blowing the bundle) which although is a bit of a gimmick, I like it. Especially if I ever get lost, and completely forget how to read a map, or ask somebody directions. Oh well, I like the thing.
All in all, I feel the Y2k is a much better truck than the previous CK design time will tell however, I'm one of the lucky one's that so far haven't run into any little gremlins with mine yet. I'm keeping my fingers crossed.
Bill.........Revitupfast
Thanks
Matt
Thanks
Matt
Don't think you can get a 3 door now??
Good Luck
- Tim