Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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The truths behind break-in periods
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The books say go easy at first....some people say give it hell....or drive it as you normally drive.....who cares?..break them in however the heck ya want..ya know??
- Tim E.Coyote - Super Genius
(Eatious Slobbious)
http://www.teleweb.net/mgdvhman/WileSupr_Gen.wav
Red, you just rub me the wrong way. You constantly knock everyone on their posts or cut down people with unknown words and when someone comes back at you it's, "Don't take it so seriously" or "I'm just kidding, sorry"
The only reason I knock your spelling and punctuation is your famous post about, "Ford owners can't read". How come you can say that and when someone comes back that you can't spell you get all defensive? Just seems you can dish it out but can't take it. I'm done with this crap and to answer your question if it's not Nikasell(sp?) then I don't know.
Regarding the racing engine analogy, I'm not convinced that there's a correlation between those and the engines in a street vehicle. For what it's worth, I was working on a project a few years ago that took me to the headquarters that builds the cars and engines for Dale Earnhardt... Those engines spend many hours on the dyno before they go into the cars. In effect, they're "broken in" before they hit the track.
Regarding Marvel Mystery Oil... It's NOT at all like "STP" or "Engine Honey." It's very thin, and can be used either as a fuel or oil additive. The reason I use it in fuel during break-ins is because when it's combusted, it leaves a "dry lubricant" residue.
I won't argue its virtues... I'll simply trust what I was told in the automotive technology courses in college.
BTW... Out of curiousity due to an earlier post, I went out last evening, started up the Dakota (5.9 V8 with 243 miles), let it run, and checked for signs of "blue smoke"... Darned if I could see any!... Then again, perhaps I'm color-blind and don't know it!
Luck to all the the break-ins!
Never heard of ABC used in racing motorcyle engines, at least not in the last 20 years...
ABC is a cheap, usually ringless Aluminum piston running in a bore of Brass, I think, used in little two stroke model airplane engines.
I wouldn't use MMO for any reason. Just another snake oil.
And REDSILVERADO, you sure do piss alot of folks off!
How about we get back to just good ol' friendly debates......
airplanes. your close on the ABC description.
actually it's a siliconized piston running in a
chrome plated brass sleeve. set up with the
proper taper in the bore with a tight fit at the
top end, these set ups use to make the most
horsepower for their displacment. however ther'ye
not cheap, at least not the Rossi's and OPS's
from italy. BTW what type of planes were you
into?
as far as ticking people off you're right. but
since coming here i will tell you and anyone else
reading this that i have been learning a much
better way of communicating with other people.
although i may not show it at times. i just can't
help myself though when it comes to certain
people that get mad so easily. i will work on it
though.
thanx,
...red
"wow ford owners can read".
How on earth can you bore with a taper? The whole reason that we rebuild engines is that there is too much taper in the cylinders.
Rich
About using a different grade oil don't, for the same reason the dealer can deny warranty work based on failure to follow the maintenance chart. Also remember that the engine temperature is regulated to maintain 190-210F as a result the ambient temperature doesn't really matter while the truck is operating, and if it is above 190F ambient we have some problems. Changing the weight of the oil is mostly for cold weather when the ambient temp is to low for the oil to flow.
Using a synthetic is a matter of personal choice for normal use regular oil works just as good as a synthetic the main thing is to remember to change oil and oil filters at regular intervals.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for your response(s) and you can refrain from any "bashing" being how it only tells everyone how mature you really are(nt).
question but here goes. 20/50 has it's
applications, most notably with small discpl.
engines. heck i always ran 20/50 in my honda
motorcycles, as this is what they recomended.
with the modern engines for cars that are being
produced though, tolerances play an important
role. quite frankly they're way better than years
ago and if oil is changed on a frequent basis
they last much longer too. this mainly due to
better metals and initial fit and finish. this is
why 5/30 or 10/30 (depending on climate) works so
well and allows better gas mileage, which is what
most people want. so to use 20/50 in a new car
that only recomends 5/30 would be like and a
wieghted trailor to it.
if your Jeep engine is running the same at
100,000 as it was at 50,000 and not burning oil,
then why are you asking what wieght should be
used? it doesn't really make sense to change
something that's been working right?
...red
If your jeep motor is running just fine at 100K, why change what you're already doing. Obviously, you're doing it right.
Rich
this topic is being "frozen." It will be archived or deleted in the next 10 days or so.
Front Porch Philosopher
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