This is my one peeve with my new truck. I somehow sit back far enough that the visors when on the side windows do not block the sun. So, if I want to see clearly I have to lean forward a few inches. Since I do most of my driving around sunrise and sunset, this is pretty annoying. I like the idea of the extenders that appear in the picture. Why would they put something smart like that on the Sierra and not the Silverado?
My truck has about 300 miles on it now and I'm wondering about the first oil change. I read the forums on vehicle break-in and opinions vary.
The Owner's Manual doesn't mention the first oil change as being different than the others, saying to go by the Message Center indicator. I've read that it's good to do the first oil change at 1000 - 1500 miles to remove whatever metal filings are floating around. Opinions?
Also, (and I've read the other forums on this, too) what do you guys think about synthetic oil?
Go with the Ventshade Ventvisors, they are the originals and what I have always used on my two trucks. I did not get the ones for the 1/4 windows though because they do absoloutley nothing with a side swing window set-up plus they look rediculous anyway. They run about $50.
Bottom line, most change to synthetic at 1st oil change (approx. 1-2K miles). Smartest investment you can make. The thing that gets me is people who whine about the cost of synthetic oil after spending $30K on a truck. ummmmmm, the engine is pretty important.......TAKE CARE OF IT!
I'm talking about 2002 one for me....Only a little over 1 year from ordering it....
I tried to convince the wife to get a Silverado for herself instead of the Stang Convertable....but she is a Mustang girl and wants her Cobra Convertable....oh well..whatever makes her happy... (even tried for a WS6 Convert or SS Cam.Convert...no go)
Hard to believe I've had this 2500 8.5 months and almost 14K miles!
Time flys when you are having fun I guess?.....
Wifes Uncle works for GM and he has an 1500 LS 4 door...took it for a ride...forgot to ride with windows up to see how interior noise compares with 3 door..
Thanks for the info. I got your email. Concerning orange for a color, Ford has a beautiful Tennessee Orange on the Mustang. Would love to see that color on the Silverado.
The service guy at the dealership I bought my truck, told me to wait untill the engine is completely broke in before going to synthetics. In his opinion, about 9000 miles. I don't know if I am going to wait that long, but I'm not going to switch before 5000 miles. There is so many different opinions on using synthetic oil, I'm not real sure of the perfect change over time.
I will go with ceramic coated headers or the JET-Hot coat. I will still have some time before I do purchase them but would like some suggestions of a good brand to go with. I am going to be installing a 50 series single in/dual outlet Flowmaster muffler/K&N airfilter/Hypertech Programmer and eventually the headers. Also,will I run into any problems with these modifications? Will this extra power strain my truck in anyway? I want this truck for a long time and do not want to sacrifice its condition just to burn some tires. Will I need any other modifications to go along with these... Thanks again
for the info on the ventvisors. I've seen their ads in Autoweek, and I think they are actually located only about 30 minutes away from me, so maybe they have a storefront or something.
I havent said anything bad about your 2500. I dont mind em only thing i dislike are the rims. To tell you the truth i like the new 3500 Duallys better than the 1500 Z71. But i have no use for a 3500 4x4 diesel. One day im telling you ONE DAY i will have one.
CAB LIGHTS- I like the new cab lights on the 3500 series the two on both sides and the large one in the middle but i wouldnt put them on a 1500. They look good on a work truck.
UH OH 5 DAYS LEFT!!!
Oh found out about insurance today lets say its pretty darn high. Im gonna be working alot this summer.
Silverado is about 7 month old now with 3,000 miles, For last month been sitting in the garage. Has anyone had the message center recommend oil change on a light driven truck. If any out there. Wondering if computer still keeping calculations. Don't put to many mile a year last truck 86 el camino which is parked next 2000 racked up about 100,000. 86 is all original except for belts,hoses, maintenance items.
The bottom line is that it really doesn't matter much when you switch over to synthetic. The old wisdom says wait until it's well broken in. Even if some disagree, why not wait? It's not like running a few thousand more with normal oil is going to hurt it.
I'm sure some of you have noticed that the hypertech unit at truck performance has gone up from $299 to $339 since coming into stock. I had sent an email to their customer service and got a reply from their president offering the unit at $299 till June 1, 2000. Just thought I'd let you guys know...
It's fine to run sythetic oil, but I wouldn't recommend extending your oil changes to compensate. The oil still gets dirty. Stay with your normal oil change intervals. Saw the 3 stooges last night. Interesting and informative, but also somewhat sad. I always loved those guys, still do. Especially Curly. Nyuck, Nyuck.
Got my truck trend (june 2000) i think i recall either the last week in march or april 1st. I get it real early i have a subscription. It might have not been a month but it was at least 3 wks ago.
TODD- Didnt you put on your husky mud flaps??? How are they doing??? Did you get any pictures of it yet? Let me know thanks
Apply common sense here folks, in a nutshell - synthetic is designed to withstand higher/lower temperatures and to reduce friction vs conventional oil. So why does anyone think that putting synthetic in on your first oil change - regardless of how many miles are on it is going to due some kind of mystery damage??!! THINK!
If we use the logic some of you are trying to apply to oil to gasoline then the following would be true. "Let the engine break in using 87 octane until 5,000 miles, then its ok to use 93 octane."
Ever heard of seating rings???? Synthetics oils prevent proper ring sealing due to superior friction reduction. You need friction to seat rings properly, that is why you should wait till at least 3000-5000 miles. I have printed information from engine builders that say explicitly not to use synthetics when breaking in the engines because it causes impoper ring seating.
All new Corvettes come from the factory with synthetic oil. Are you implying the rings will never seat? Obviously the rings are seating or the vehicles wouldn't pass smog tests. And some percentage of vehicles get pulled off the line and tested. And they have to pass when new. And they do pass.
The equipment that engine manufacturers use may not be the same that rebuilders use and that may account for a rebuilt engine needing a break-in before running synthetic. But it is not neccesary for a new truck/car.
I run the vehicle 5-600 miles and drain the oil, change the filter and run with synthetic. No problems with ring seating. Even if I were going to stay with conventional oil I would drain it at 5-600 miles in case some debris was inside the engine. It is a remote possibility, but old habits die hard.
just bought a new 2000 silverado from a dealership in Lafayette, LA (I'll refrain from identifing which one!) and it's a complete LEMON. Turns out the truck had been in an accident on a test drive and I wasn't told about it. Found out through my insurance company just a day ago, and it turns out this dealership has done it in the past. I would strongly advise contacting me if you have bought a silverado in the Lafayette, LA area for more details.
so how do people go about contacting you? While laws differ from state to state, have you checked whether it is illegal for them to do what they did? While being a bit unethical, usually it's perfectly legal for them to do so. Not backing up the dealership, just curious.
I know, I dislike them too but this seems like a good time to contact one.
Selling a repaired vehicle as new borders on fraud. Chrysler paid millions in fines for doing the same thing a few years ago. If this dealer has a history of doing this you may be able to get punitive damages.
Also contact GM and register a complaint. Also the state Attorney General's Office.
Dirty oil is not the reason you have to change it. Breaking down is the reason. So extended intervals between changes using synthetic is not only NOT hurting your engine, it is helping the environment and saving money.
Comparing regular oil to 87 octane was a stupid comparison, by the way. For the typical person it goes the other way: If a car was designed to run on 87 and runs fine on 87, why not use 89 because it will run better? Why? Because it DOESN'T.
I am switching to synthetic, but for the typical driver in the typical environment changing every 3000-5000 miles, it won't make one bit of difference.
We ran Havoline 10/40 in my old '67 Camaro for 180,000 miles before pulling the engine for a rebuild. Oil was changed every 4000-7000 miles. Not only was there very little wear in the bores, but there was no sludge. And that was back when oil was still API SE or earlier.
They call that one the wreck. Them lemons be ones that aint no good from that factory, like them tundras now. Sure that one aint a tundra? Good luck on this one now!
jeff - if you're concerned for others not getting ripped off, you need to post a way to contact you. don't feel bad about naming the dealer here. nobody can punish you and you can help others out by helping them avoid this dealership. additionally...like tim said, because it was wrecked and then sold as new it's not a lemon. it may be fraud, but only if they told you it had never been wrecked. in addition to contacting a lawyer and your attorney general's office, contact your local better business bureau (you can usually find them in the phone book in the business section or yellow pages) and you can search for the one nearest you on the internet at www.bbb.com if this dealership has made a habit of "unethical dealings" the bbb should have record of it. if not...be the first to report it. lastly, you can avoid this type of problem in the future by requesting the dealership show you a copy of an authorized vin # check, or run one yourself on the internet at sites like www.carfax.com note: vin # checks are not a catch-all method. they will only report incidents (damage, theft, etc) which were reported, and hence, a record generated on that vehicle's vin #. my $0.02
You did not get a Lemon vehicle, you got a Lemon dealer! There are laws on the books in California anyway regarding "Disclosure". Even if the law is not in the books, just about any court in the land would rule against the dealer in a case like that UNLESS thery advertised "AS IS". I would certainly let the dealer know you intend on pursuing this. I would get my money back post haste and go to a reputable dealer.
OIL CHANGE / SYNTHETICS, ETC. - New or rebuilt engines are built to be within specs! That means there will be some variation in bore, size, shape, etc. from engine to engine. Does anyone here think the factory can maintain tight specs and still mass produce? (I have some oceanfront land in Arizona I would like to sell!) Each engine would thus take a different amount of "break-in" to seat rings, etc. Average may be something like 3000 miles or whatever. The point is that with reasonable care, based on average use, the difference between synthetics and regular oil probably will not be noticed! Regular oil changes are probably the cheapest insurance you could buy, synthetic or otherwise. If you are more comfortable with synthetics go for it!
We don't really know if silverado's 5.3 liter engines are built in the same manor as corvettes and BMW's. I think Blueeast has a good idea going. Watch your gas mileage and when it levels out your engine is broke in. Then make the change. This debate is really selling me on synthetic oil. Think about it... so many people recommend not using this stuff untill your engine is broke in (not just on Edmunds) because your engine rings and bearings won,t seat properly due to wear. It must reduce friction and engine wear pretty good!
What dealer in Lafayette did this? I live in Lafayette, and I would appreciate further info such as 1)who was your sales person? 2)what did the sales manager have to say about this deception? 3)Did they defend what they did, or did they act like a mistake was made? 4)What did your insurance source tell you about your truck, and what did he have to say about prior incidents of this nature with this dealership? 5)What is the status of your truck and your 'dispute' with the dealership? 6)If you don't mind me asking, how much above invoice did you pay for this truck? - was this the same price the other new Silverados on the lot were selling for? Please fill us in on the details please...
What is the best way for me to track the progress on my new 2k Silverado. I have order# and tpw but would like to track myself instead of calling dealer. Thanks for any assistance.
but for you Bud fans out there, I had my brush with fame tonight. Two of the guys from the WHASSUP commercials were at a local bar my wife and I eat at a lot, and I got an autographed picture with them. They were really cool, by the way.
after reading your post about when an engine reaches maximum fuel mileage, i must say that is about the most common sense way of puttin it. understood what you meant about diff' octane uses also. whoever said it was "stupid" (back a few post) needs to go back to school of common sense.
>whoever said it was "stupid" (back a few >post) needs to go back to school of common sense.
Hey. I resemble that remark.
Here's why it makes no sense: 87 octane will not hurt an engine made for it; regular oil will not hurt an engine either. If you're going to change oil every 3000-5000 miles anyway, don't bother with synthetics as they will give you absolutely no benefit (unless you live in a severe climate). Oil does not need changing because it is dirty (all MY cars and trucks have oil filters, and I don't use Fram), it needs changing when the viscosity additives break down and the oil stops doing its job of lubricating the engine.
If oil needed changing when dirty, Amsoil (arguably the best synthetic on the market) wouldn't be able to offer no charge engine warranty protection with 25,000 mile changes.
As to the arguement about waiting to break in, that was a problem back in 1973 or so when Mobil One first came out. It has long been "fixed." Check the info at Mobil's web site about the research into the product and why you can use it from day one.
Learn a little about oil and engines before arguing about oil.
don't take things so seriously. no offense was intented, it's just that bluebeast has the right idea about when to switch, seeing how ther'es alot of doubt still floating around about this subject. not to argue with you but there have been cases where guys went to synthetic too soon an began using oil. went back to dino for a few thou' more then went back and everything was fine. the corvettes (had 2 brand new ones) are built alot different than the truck motors. if not, Chevy would be replacing 'vette motors all the time you don't get into a 'vette and go 55 or
slower for 500 and then punch it. trust me i've been there done it.
Kyle, Does the carfax.com website that you mentioned also provide info on the repair record of cars and trucks? If so, that could be quite interesting in checking out information on a used vehicle. Bob
Ryan, Your time is almost here to pick up your new LS 1500. I am really enjoying mine and have not found anything wrong with it during the almost one week of ownership except for the missing fifth wheel wiring and the dealer has ordered from gm and I will be get it added soon. It's really a nice truck and the ext. cab has so much room. My brother-in-law is now looking at new ones to replace his 98 Sierra. It is catching. Bob
I disagree rwag.....The faster Flow rate of Mobil 1 when your engine is stone cold...lubes the engine quicker...and THAT is the most important factor for me...after all ....most of engine wear happens right when you start it up..
It's like high speed rated tires on my Ma's Lincoln...no..she will not be going 140MPH...but the higher rated tire rides better at 60 than the 80MPH rated tire at 60.....(bad comparison..but you get the idea)
faster Flow rate when cold...and the ability to break down less while at High RPM..aka highway for a substained time...are two reasons for me to get Mobil 1...even with 5K oil change intervals..
As for Oil filters.....GM Delco filters are rated some of best around. Besides...if you DON'T use them...you void the warranty.
Post #259 shows an open compartment and reminded me of a question that I have on my 00 Silverado. The salesman could not answer this when my wife asked about it last week when we picked it up. The question: Why does the Silverado have what appears to be a closed and unusable compartment in the overhead console just below the reading lights covered. Post #259 from Vince shows an open compartment, which is usable and I like. Is this one of those interior differences between the Silverado and Seirra or am I missing something here?? Bob
Comments
blinded..
Meredith
The Owner's Manual doesn't mention the first oil change as being different than the others, saying to go by the Message Center indicator. I've read that it's good to do the first oil change at 1000 - 1500 miles to remove whatever metal filings are floating around. Opinions?
Also, (and I've read the other forums on this, too) what do you guys think about synthetic oil?
Thanks!
Meredith
Pics @ www.picturetrail.com/rayt2/60054
Ray T.
Ryan
Ray T.
Bottom line, most change to synthetic at 1st oil change (approx. 1-2K miles). Smartest investment you can make. The thing that gets me is people who whine about the cost of synthetic oil after spending $30K on a truck. ummmmmm, the engine is pretty important.......TAKE CARE OF IT!
I tried to convince the wife to get a Silverado for herself instead of the Stang Convertable....but she is a Mustang girl and wants her Cobra Convertable....oh well..whatever makes her happy...
(even tried for a WS6 Convert or SS Cam.Convert...no go)
Hard to believe I've had this 2500 8.5 months and almost 14K miles!
Time flys when you are having fun I guess?.....
Wifes Uncle works for GM and he has an 1500 LS 4 door...took it for a ride...forgot to ride with windows up to see how interior noise compares with 3 door..
next time..
- Tim
There is so many different opinions on using synthetic oil, I'm not real sure of the perfect change over time.
Jeff
I will go with ceramic coated headers or the JET-Hot coat. I will still have some time before I do purchase them but would like some suggestions of a good brand to go with. I am going to be installing a 50 series single in/dual outlet Flowmaster muffler/K&N airfilter/Hypertech Programmer and eventually the headers. Also,will I run into any problems with these modifications? Will this extra power strain my truck in anyway? I want this truck for a long time and do not want to sacrifice its condition just to burn some tires. Will I need any other modifications to go along with these... Thanks again
*~Teaboy~*
- Tim
Ryan
Anyone see the stooges movie??
"I can't see!!..Why?...I got my eyes closed!"
- Tim
CAB LIGHTS- I like the new cab lights on the 3500 series the two on both sides and the large one in the middle but i wouldnt put them on a 1500. They look good on a work truck.
UH OH 5 DAYS LEFT!!!
Oh found out about insurance today
Ryan
miles, For last month been sitting in the garage.
Has anyone had the message center recommend
oil change on a light driven truck.
If any out there. Wondering
if computer still keeping calculations.
Don't put to many mile a year last truck 86
el camino which is parked next 2000 racked
up about 100,000. 86 is all original except
for belts,hoses, maintenance items.
Ryan,
i didn't say you were saying anything bad?....but i don't recall you talking about the 2500 times..
oh well
long day tomorrow..
C-ya!
- Tim
TODD- Didnt you put on your husky mud flaps??? How are they doing??? Did you get any pictures of it yet? Let me know thanks
Ryan
If we use the logic some of you are trying to apply to oil to gasoline then the following would be true. "Let the engine break in using 87 octane until 5,000 miles, then its ok to use 93 octane."
Get it?
All new Corvettes come from the factory with synthetic oil. Are you implying the rings will never seat? Obviously the rings are seating or the vehicles wouldn't pass smog tests. And some percentage of vehicles get pulled off the line and tested. And they have to pass when new. And they do pass.
The equipment that engine manufacturers use may not be the same that rebuilders use and that may account for a rebuilt engine needing a break-in before running synthetic. But it is not neccesary for a new truck/car.
I run the vehicle 5-600 miles and drain the oil, change the filter and run with synthetic. No problems with ring seating. Even if I were going to stay with conventional oil I would drain it at 5-600 miles in case some debris was inside the engine. It is a remote possibility, but old habits die hard.
Mike L
I know, I dislike them too but this seems like a good time to contact one.
Selling a repaired vehicle as new borders on fraud. Chrysler paid millions in fines for doing the same thing a few years ago. If this dealer has a history of doing this you may be able to get punitive damages.
Also contact GM and register a complaint. Also the state Attorney General's Office.
Good luck,
Mike L
Comparing regular oil to 87 octane was a stupid comparison, by the way. For the typical person it goes the other way: If a car was designed to run on 87 and runs fine on 87, why not use 89 because it will run better? Why? Because it DOESN'T.
I am switching to synthetic, but for the typical driver in the typical environment changing every 3000-5000 miles, it won't make one bit of difference.
We ran Havoline 10/40 in my old '67 Camaro for 180,000 miles before pulling the engine for a rebuild. Oil was changed every 4000-7000 miles. Not only was there very little wear in the bores, but there was no sludge. And that was back when oil was still API SE or earlier.
Richard
A lemon is a messed up one from the factory with things wrong....GM has no responsibilty here...it's your dealers fault.
- Tim
if you're concerned for others not getting ripped off, you need to post a way to contact you. don't feel bad about naming the dealer here. nobody can punish you and you can help others out by helping them avoid this dealership. additionally...like tim said, because it was wrecked and then sold as new it's not a lemon. it may be fraud, but only if they told you it had never been wrecked. in addition to contacting a lawyer and your attorney general's office, contact your local better business bureau (you can usually find them in the phone book in the business section or yellow pages) and you can search for the one nearest you on the internet at www.bbb.com if this dealership has made a habit of "unethical dealings" the bbb should have record of it. if not...be the first to report it. lastly, you can avoid this type of problem in the future by requesting the dealership show you a copy of an authorized vin # check, or run one yourself on the internet at sites like www.carfax.com note: vin # checks are not a catch-all method. they will only report incidents (damage, theft, etc) which were reported, and hence, a record generated on that vehicle's vin #. my $0.02
kyle
OIL CHANGE / SYNTHETICS, ETC. - New or rebuilt engines are built to be within specs! That means there will be some variation in bore, size, shape, etc. from engine to engine. Does anyone here think the factory can maintain tight specs and still mass produce? (I have some oceanfront land in Arizona I would like to sell!) Each engine would thus take a different amount of "break-in" to seat rings, etc. Average may be something like 3000 miles or whatever. The point is that with reasonable care, based on average use, the difference between synthetics and regular oil probably will not be noticed! Regular oil changes are probably the cheapest insurance you could buy, synthetic or otherwise. If you are more comfortable with synthetics go for it!
Don't worry. Be happy.
Watch your gas mileage and when it levels out your engine is broke in. Then make the change.
This debate is really selling me on synthetic oil.
Think about it... so many people recommend not using this stuff untill your engine is broke in (not just on Edmunds) because your engine rings and bearings won,t seat properly due to wear.
It must reduce friction and engine wear pretty good!
Ryan
reaches maximum fuel mileage, i must say that is
about the most common sense way of puttin it.
understood what you meant about diff' octane uses
also. whoever said it was "stupid" (back a few
post) needs to go back to school of common sense.
just my nickels worth.
...RED
>post) needs to go back to school of common sense.
Hey. I resemble that remark.
Here's why it makes no sense: 87 octane will not hurt an engine made for it; regular oil will not hurt an engine either. If you're going to change oil every 3000-5000 miles anyway, don't bother with synthetics as they will give you absolutely no benefit (unless you live in a severe climate). Oil does not need changing because it is dirty (all MY cars and trucks have oil filters, and I don't use Fram), it needs changing when the viscosity additives break down and the oil stops doing its job of lubricating the engine.
If oil needed changing when dirty, Amsoil (arguably the best synthetic on the market) wouldn't be able to offer no charge engine warranty protection with 25,000 mile changes.
As to the arguement about waiting to break in, that was a problem back in 1973 or so when Mobil One first came out. It has long been "fixed." Check the info at Mobil's web site about the research into the product and why you can use it from day one.
Learn a little about oil and engines before arguing about oil.
Richard
intented, it's just that bluebeast has the right
idea about when to switch, seeing how ther'es
alot of doubt still floating around about this
subject. not to argue with you but there have
been cases where guys went to synthetic too soon
an began using oil. went back to dino for a few
thou' more then went back and everything was
fine. the corvettes (had 2 brand new ones) are
built alot different than the truck motors. if
not, Chevy would be replacing 'vette motors all
the time you don't get into a 'vette and go 55 or
slower for 500 and then punch it. trust me i've
been there done it.
so relax dude, you're not wrong but Bluebeast has
the right idea.
...RED
breaking a new Beemer in on the autobaun at 55?
you'd really need rear airbags then. ha, ha,
...RED
It's like high speed rated tires on my Ma's Lincoln...no..she will not be going 140MPH...but the higher rated tire rides better at 60 than the 80MPH rated tire at 60.....(bad comparison..but you get the idea)
faster Flow rate when cold...and the ability to break down less while at High RPM..aka highway for a substained time...are two reasons for me to get Mobil 1...even with 5K oil change intervals..
As for Oil filters.....GM Delco filters are rated some of best around. Besides...if you DON'T use them...you void the warranty.
- Tim