Been a couple of weeks now. Still no ping on the TR55 plugs gapped at .052. Still running 87 octane, running a/c, and high temps/humidity.
I think this is going to do it. Have you changed your plugs yet?
Now I can quit focusing on resolving this issue and focus on additions to the truck, enjoy owning and driving it, and quit annoying my wife complaining about the pinging.
WHO??? 110% satisfied here. I love my truck smooth acceleration and the engine purrs like a kitten. It gets alot of looks too trust me its an eye catcher.
Quick question though for anyone with the autotrac. I know the 4hi , 4 lo, 2 hi and auto buttons illuminate at night where the description is. My auto button only lights up on the word auto and not the 4WD under the word auto just wondering if this is how everyone elses is or does any of yours illuminate for the whole thing auto 4WD? Maybe mine is burnt out no biggie just notcied this a few nights ago and thought i could get a quick answer here. THANKS
In Canada you can go to GM or Chev dealership for warranty work. I take my GM to a Chev dealer because I can walk there to pick it up even though they have a drop off service. They seem happy to do warranty work since it is $ in the till.
If a dealer told me to take a hike, I'd reort them to GMC ... and then never darken their door again. Surely warranty is a right, not a favour they are doing for you.
Does this oil seepage seem right for a 2000 2500 with a 4.10 locker and 7500 miles? It started early and has traveled along the housing but it doesn't drip. Does everyone's look like this?
Hi Dan, I haven't done it yet, thought about it several times, but decided I'm going to buy a set of those TR55 NGKs gapped to 0.052, and put them in.
Your information is so good, you've taken all the effort out of getting this resolved for me. Just last week, we finally had a few hot days, for us that's near 90, and with AC it had several episodes of ping bad enough I pulled in to a station and topped up with premium fuel. I can imagine I'd have a bigger problem in a hot climate. I will get those NGK copper cores bought, and put in. I can't wait, and I promise to let you know how it turns out, right here.
No, my rear diff looks dry. It's my front diff that looks like your rear. When I get under it, there is always a drop hanging, but somehow never ends up on the floor. The level is full too. I asked the service advisor about this. He said they can replace the seal without taking the diff apart. That's important to me, since I don't have any vibrations, and don't want any replacement parts other than the seal. Need to get it in for this, and have the driveshaft splines lubed too.
Anyway, from the looks of your picture, no big deal. I've taken diffs apart before, but old age...I can't remember whether the seal is installed from the inside or the outside. The service advisor tells me it's the outside. But what I do remember, you remove the u-joint bolts, and then the pinion nut.
At night when your in your truck could you please take a look at your autotrac and let me know what lights up on your first button (auto 4WD)??? Thanks
Mine did twice in the first couple of months, they drop the driveshaft, pull the yoke and pop a new seal from the outside, easy job. Don't know why the first two leaked, but the 3rd has been a charm for about 20k miles. I'd replace yours, make sure they only fill the diff to 15mm below filler plug max with the special synth oil.
Any money you spend on your '86 truck trying to improve fuel economy will not pay back unless you drive your truck a long time. Everytime you wanna spend money on it, put that money in a savings account for your next vehicle. I would just do the minimum maintenance to keep it running...
My quickee analysis.... 10,000 miles at 13.5 mph = 740gallons. Suppose you get it all the way up to 16 mph; 10k miles = 625 gallons. You save 115 gallons, about $175. Bet you'd spend waaay more than $175 getting that kinda mileage increase. And you'd still have a 15 yr old vehicle that undoubtedly needs lots of other maintenance..
Just went out in the garage to check your light question. Kyle is corrent and the 4WD does not light up. If you look very closely at it you will notice 4WD is printed on the button and not transparent.
Now I've got a question (thanks to Ryan). The switch that controls the internal lights and dims the console lights.(directly right of the headlight switch). The symbol above that dial switch does not light up. Should it????
Sounds good. I am not trying to rush you. I just remember you saying that you were going to give it a try. Curious to see if others with the same ping have theirs cured by the same means. Some of the guys on www.pacific-audio.com board are saying it didn't fix theirs. Have to wonder if each person will need to experiment with the gap and/or plug type as I did. Also, I know the fuel map in the computer retains info on something like 3 tanks of fuel before it "adjusts" timing, etc based on fuel. The way my truck is with the TR55 plugs gapped to .052, it runs tops on the 87 octane, even with loads and high temps. If I put 89 or 91 octane in, I start getting detonation again and it takes a few tanks of regular 87 octane for the ping to stop. Go figure. Only thing I can guess is that the higher octane sets a fuel mapping for the computer that advances the timing too much and the knock sensors don't retard enough.
I also recieved my autotap this past weekend. Havn't tried it out yet. It only runs on 16 bit applications, ie. Dos, Win95/98. I currently have Winnt on my laptop, so I will need to set up a dual boot to run the software. I will let you know what I find out from that. The way my truck is running, shouldn't find any abnormalities.
I don't have anything like that on my 99 Silverado, new model. I have almost 19k miles on mine. I changed my differential and transaxle fluid at about 17k miles. Both are dry as a bone on the exterior and both were full up on fluid when I changed it out.
What is this autotap that you referred to? Does it allow you to connect your computer to the vehicle through the ALDL and check codes or something? Where do you get one and how much? Just curious.
I've had my Silverado 1500 LT ext cab 4WD for two weeks now and really enjoy it! I've had only two minor problems with it; a whistling rear quarter window (drivers side) and a loose drivers seat. (Power leather seats with memory) Parts are on order and will be covered by warrenty.
Add-ons so far have been a tonneau cover and K&N filtercharger. I'm still on my first tank of feul since installation so I don't know what effect it will have yet on ecnomy but extra HP's are great.
Have 3 mo. old z71, Lt, excab., 4door. Great truck but minor problems. Had bad wind noise in passanger front door, first time in did not fix. Second visit it was fixed but still get some wind noise when it is very windy outside. Will take it back when I have time to leave it for a full day. Front shocks were leaking and had to be replaced. I think others have said they had this problem. Last problem is some loose, give in the back bucket seats (leather). Drivers side worse. Took to dealer, had it full day sent out to subcontractor they put several new pieces in seat, still has give in the seat. Dealer said that they tried and have no other idea what to do. They said check back in a few months maybe GM will have a solution for the problem.OK!! We go to dealer that we did not buy from, big dealer that would not give us the deal we wanted. They have no problem servicing our truck. They even gave us a oil change free.
This may not apply to your truck, but a bunch of 2000 Subs and Tahoes had loose seat backs- more like a little annoying 'play' in the seat back recliner mechanism that I even felt for myself on a test drive. They have since 'fixed' it at the factory. My new Tahoe seats are fine. Several posters on the Sub and Tahoe topics have had dealers order and replace the seat back reclining mechanism. The new part (same part number I believe) that was sent to the service department was 'different' or 'modified' and successfully corrected the problem. Maybe your bucket seats use the same part? Use the search engine in those townhall topics and maybe you can contact somebody who has already dealt with this and had it taken care of. Maybe GM took care of this at the factory but didn't consider it worthy of a service bulletin...Good luck!
I had the same problem with my drivers side seat on my '00 LT. Part number shown on the repair order is 12477294 (F-RECLINER) whatever that is. The parts guy referred to it as a latch assm. This resolved the play in my seat.
FYI, I just received this e-mail from carparts.com:
Need a gift for Mom? Well, for the entire month of May we're celebrating Mother's day with 25% off any purchase. From Monster Tachometers to NOS systems, you'll find everything you need to put a tear in Mom's eye including...
Ryan, a few days ago you were looking for a front license plate or was it a plate frame for your truck? I found a few front plates that Chevy used at the Cleveland Auto Show from the early 90's I think. They are black, and read " THE HEARTBEAT OF AMERICA TODAY'S CHEVY TRUCK" Heartbeat is in red letters, the rest of the script is silver; the plate is aluminum. I can send you one if you want it! I know its from an earlier advertising campaign; but I think its better than what they use today. You probably don't want something that "old on a y2k truck do you?
Have you been changing your rear axle fluid? Manual says to change after 500 miles of towing. If you have a locking differential does it still need the special additive that GM used to use? I thought with synthetic axle fluid that you wouldn't need it. Spoke with service rep a couple of days ago and he said he thought it still needed it. The key word here is he "thought" it needed it. I haven't found a service manual like Chilton's yet for 99/2000 GM trucks. What have you been doing with yours?
Not required to do it for like 150,000 miles, but I'm gonna change shortly. I have a '99 with locker. Will do it soon, only have to use the GM synth fluid ($23/qt), no adder. My dealer's parts dept said stuff was on B/O nationwide a month or so ago when I changed my front, tranny and transfer case. I used M1 gear oil in front, M1 ATF in manual transfer case, and the GM Syncromesh lube in the tranny.
I have the $126 Helms manuals for the '99 Silverado line you can order from the back of the owner's manual. They are great, about the size of Phoenix phone books about 1' tall total.
Oh, ya since my 2001 3/4 ton CrewCab is on order, will entertain offers on the 5 month old set of shop manuals, contact me offline at my email......
ive seen what you are talking about. I am looking for one that has a black back ground with a blue chevy bow tie in the middle. Thanks anyways maybe if my truck was black id take it its not the old thing.
150k was my vague recollection on change interval. I think it is specifically identified in the owners manual. Interesting note, my Jeep buddies Cherokee calls for change every 12,000 miles. I figure change it once after a year, then every 50 to 100 k miles or sooner if you submerge it.
To give you a simple but fairly accurate explanation of limited slip differential follow this example. You live in Seattle so you probably have some experience with snow and ice. Let's say your sister is sitting on a sled and you are going to push her on that sled. Your left foot is on ice and your right foot is on grass and you push off on your left foot. You'll slip and probably fall. What will probably happen though is that when you sense your left foot slip you'll start pushing with your right foot to get traction. Thats kind of what limited slip does; it senses slippage and sends the power to the wheel with the better traction. I think a locking rear differential sends the power equally to both wheels when one of them slips. Hope this helps.
That is not really the question, it is a rhino-liner or a X-line? Anyone have experience with either? Also what are your opinions on spraying it on the top rail of the bed?
I just bought the truck 5/6/00 it is a 1500 LT 4X4 carmine red with grey interior. I love it!!
For quick response on rear fluid change. My y2k owners manual doesn't say anything about rear axle fluid being scheduled for any changes other than after the first 500 miles of towing. I wonder if your slightly used 1999 Helm's manuals are of use on the 2000's. Just kidding! I'm sure they are mostly accurate. Thanks again.
I have the rhino under the rail with wade black plastic bedrail caps it looks great and i have gotten many comments saying it looks nice and where i got em at. I would do the same thing with my next truck i wouldnt even think about it. Dogg loves the spray in alot to especially when its wett it keeps him cool
It was medium gray color, but faded in the Arizona sun. I think you have to keep after them with Armor All or similar product to keep them looking nice if you have a lighter color. Also, I had a couple of stains from leaking containers of cleaning solvent which I had in the box at one time - could not remove those stains. Otherwise, no complaints with the liner. I had it sprayed over the top, but would not do that again - looked a little overdone. I would buy plastic/abs edge guards. I'm thinking of trying a paint saver pad(http://www.paintsaver.net/) and a drop in liner if I can find one that doesn't require being screwed to the box and/or tailgate.
I have samples on the way from Rhino in the mail, my truck has the plastic molding/cover on the top edge of the tailgate and I didn't want it to look funny with the other rail edges bare.
rgould22 and gotribe1 for the locking diff. information.
I spoke to the car audio manager at the Good Guys about beefing up the sound with a subwoofer and CD changer on an ext. cab Silverado. Anybody out there done any sound system mods/upgrades they have want to share?
Thanks for the carparts info. I ordered a Gibson exhaust for my Silverado for about $375, local guy wanted $650! Wanted to gets some of those tie downs that hide in the stake pocket, but won't work with a tonneau cover unless I take it completly off, oh well. Thanks again...
well, so much for round 1 on the steering column fix. check this out, i went for test drive with shop foreman at my dealers service department and was told that there was definatly side to side play in steering shaft. may need to replace intermediate shaft just like you had pointed out. was told to bring the truck in early today to get job done so i could use it this weekend. when i went to pick the truck up at 4:30 i was told that nothing had been done because the front end guy says it checks out a'ok. ha what a joke not to mention losing a days work. if you guys have any suggestions i would sure appreciate them.
Comments
I think this is going to do it. Have you changed your plugs yet?
Now I can quit focusing on resolving this issue and focus on additions to the truck, enjoy owning and driving it, and quit annoying my wife complaining about the pinging.
Dan.
Quick question though for anyone with the autotrac. I know the 4hi , 4 lo, 2 hi and auto buttons illuminate at night where the description is. My auto button only lights up on the word auto and not the 4WD under the word auto just wondering if this is how everyone elses is or does any of yours illuminate for the whole thing auto 4WD? Maybe mine is burnt out no biggie just notcied this a few nights ago and thought i could get a quick answer here. THANKS
Ryan
If a dealer told me to take a hike, I'd reort them to GMC ... and then never darken their door again. Surely warranty is a right, not a favour they are doing for you.
Cheers, Al
I haven't done it yet, thought about it several times, but decided I'm going to buy a set of those TR55 NGKs gapped to 0.052, and put them in.
Your information is so good, you've taken all the effort out of getting this resolved for me. Just last week, we finally had a few hot days, for us that's near 90, and with AC it had several episodes of ping bad enough I pulled in to a station and topped up with premium fuel. I can imagine I'd have a bigger problem in a hot climate. I will get those NGK copper cores bought, and put in. I can't wait, and I promise to let you know how it turns out, right here.
Anyway, from the looks of your picture, no big deal. I've taken diffs apart before, but old age...I can't remember whether the seal is installed from the inside or the outside. The service advisor tells me it's the outside. But what I do remember, you remove the u-joint bolts, and then the pinion nut.
Vince,
I think mine are both dry...have to check again..I have almost 15,000 miles..
- Tim
3:73 - Best all around
4:10 and higher...starts getting into the gas suckers...
3:42 - better for mileage...but starting to lack power
- Tim
Ryan
My quickee analysis.... 10,000 miles at 13.5 mph = 740gallons. Suppose you get it all the way up to 16 mph; 10k miles = 625 gallons. You save 115 gallons, about $175. Bet you'd spend waaay more than $175 getting that kinda mileage increase. And you'd still have a 15 yr old vehicle that undoubtedly needs lots of other maintenance..
Kyle
Now I've got a question (thanks to Ryan).
The switch that controls the internal lights and dims the console lights.(directly right of the headlight switch). The symbol above that dial switch does not light up. Should it????
Randy
I also recieved my autotap this past weekend. Havn't tried it out yet. It only runs on 16 bit applications, ie. Dos, Win95/98. I currently have Winnt on my laptop, so I will need to set up a dual boot to run the software. I will let you know what I find out from that. The way my truck is running, shouldn't find any abnormalities.
Dan
Randy mine doesnt light up either. I guess that doesnt either. Its the switch next to the fog light button your talking about right?
Good to hear its normal
Thanks guys
Ryan
Kevin
Add-ons so far have been a tonneau cover and K&N filtercharger. I'm still on my first tank of feul since installation so I don't know what effect it will have yet on ecnomy but extra HP's are great.
Ed Tolman
Just yanking your chain, mine works just like yours.
Jeff
As for the diff. being wet or not....I couldn't tell....it's raining here.
- Tim
Ryan
800 mls not a damn thing wrong with the truck
Took to dealer, had it full day sent out to subcontractor they put several new pieces in seat, still has give in the seat. Dealer said that they tried and have no other idea what to do. They said check back in a few months maybe GM will have a solution for the problem.OK!!
We go to dealer that we did not buy from, big dealer that would not give us the deal we wanted. They have no problem servicing our truck. They even gave us a oil change free.
Mark
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Ryan
hehe...who'll be in the top ten???
kyle
Powershot - 125HP
Remote Bottle shut off
Throttle activate switch
Low gas pressure shut off switch
Fuel and NOS pressure Guages
Works like a charm.....
...What WAS I thinking back then?
- Tim
I have the $126 Helms manuals for the '99 Silverado line you can order from the back of the owner's manual. They are great, about the size of Phoenix phone books about 1' tall total.
Oh, ya since my 2001 3/4 ton CrewCab is on order, will entertain offers on the 5 month old set of shop manuals, contact me offline at my email......
150,000 miles?
thanx,
red
Ryan
I figure change it once after a year, then every 50 to 100 k miles or sooner if you submerge it.
I just bought the truck 5/6/00 it is a 1500 LT 4X4
carmine red with grey interior. I love it!!
Ryan
I'm thinking of trying a paint saver pad(http://www.paintsaver.net/) and a drop in liner if I can find one that doesn't require being screwed to the box and/or tailgate.
I spoke to the car audio manager at the Good Guys about beefing up the sound with a subwoofer and CD changer on an ext. cab Silverado. Anybody out there done any sound system mods/upgrades they have want to share?
sounds like good preventive maintenance anyway.
BTW are you serious about unloading the manuals?
...red
fix. check this out, i went for test drive with
shop foreman at my dealers service department and
was told that there was definatly side to side
play in steering shaft. may need to replace
intermediate shaft just like you had pointed out.
was told to bring the truck in early today to get
job done so i could use it this weekend. when i
went to pick the truck up at 4:30 i was told that
nothing had been done because the front end guy
says it checks out a'ok. ha what a joke not to
mention losing a days work. if you guys have any
suggestions i would sure appreciate them.
...red