Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

2006 Chevrolet Impala



  • charts2charts2 Posts: 618
    Its not the car, its the way GM markets its cars. You know after 1 or 2 years thousands of Impalas flood the used car market from daily rentals and expired leases. Its all based on supply and demand. Not many used car lots in america that doesn't have a handfull of Impalas for sale. The Impala is definetly the best buy for a used car 1-3 years old. I bought a brand new Impala LS in 2001. Never again! My next ride will be a 1 year old 2008 LTZ in the fall of 2008.

    During the past few years on the Impala forums I have seen where brand new Impala buyers had good intentions of keeping their cars for several years and for unknown circumstances ended up selling early and losing thousands (rapid depreciation). When a 3,4,5,6,7 year old tiny toyota corolla/Honda Civic sells for more then the larger (original more expensive) Impala, its no wonder the Japanese autos have so many repeat customers. $$$$
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    GM does the same thing with Cadillac DTS's, so that these $45-50k "program cars" sell for $28-32k when they are less than a year old. You are right -a GM program car is the best deal going. I plan on replacing my Program Deville with a program DTS in a year or so and won't ever buy another new Impala. Unless you pay 35-50% down you will be "upside down" if you trade on of these cars in a year or two. Japanese cars have repeat customers because they don't dump thousands of them to every rental car company each year. How often do you see a Camry or Accord for rent? If it is foreign you usually find Hyundai, Kia, etc. which don't have any resale value anyway.
  • I'm thinking of having a hitch installed onto our '06 Impala (w/3.5) to pull a 4x8 Utility trailer that would, when loaded, have a gross trailer weight of 2000lbs (although the normal load would be in the neighborhood of about 1200lbs) - and I would be driving 98% freeway and highway a maximum distance of 120 miles one way. Has anyone installed a hitch onto their '06 Impala? And if so, how has it done in regards to pulling the load. Anyones $.02 is appreciated. Thanks!

  • charts2charts2 Posts: 618
    I believe the towing capacity of the FWD Impala is only 1,000 pounds. Exceeding that by 2 could do some damage to the rear suspension or wheels, in turn could void future warranty work.......better check into it.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Though I have not pulled a trailer, I did install a hitch on my 2000 Impala. I ordered it online (, I think) and installed it myself, which was a little more involved than I would have liked, but satisfying when it was done. I got the wiring put in to hook up a trailer just in case, but I've yet to have a reason to rent a trailer to actually haul anything. However, I did get a 4-bicycle rack that slips into the receiver hitch. Granted the center of gravity for the bike rack is higher than a trailer would be, but will say you can definitely feel the impact of 3-4 bicycles (and the rack) hanging back there. Towing capacity of the 2000 is 1000 pounds, and based on the influence a few bikes have on the car, I'd be hesitant to try to tow 2000 pounds.
  • cnwcnw Posts: 105
    2000 pound towed weight would be dicey. Keep in mind that the rating is a function of unibody construction (ie, no real frame), horsepower/torque, and the ruggedness of the drive train. Factor into that the anticipated tongue weight and where that weight will be distributed regarding vehicle center of gravity. You could end up with a front-wheel drive vehicle with a very low percentage of weight on the driven wheels; you may be in a "nose-high" attitude losing directional control and traction simultaneously. Could be a dangerous situation, to say the least. I have significantly exceeded vehicle gross weight limits in the past, on rear-wheel drive pick-ups; I now chalk it up to being young and foolish. The resulting loss of steering control is frightening, in retrospect.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    Yeah I've been there's tempting when you're loading 50-lb bags of feed in a pickup to put them as near the tailgate as possible to make it easier to unload, but stack 15 or so bags back there and it REALLY changes the way the thing handles. You learn pretty quickly to load things between the wheel wells if at all possible.

    I was also just reminiscing with my mom about the time we had a bull that proved to be worthless (sterile), so we had him slaughtered. The nearest butcher was about 30 miles away, so my mom and I drove down in our '79 Caprice to pick up the meat and bring it home. The only problem was when we got there we found out the bull dressed out at just over 1,000 pounds! We had the trunk completely filled with frozen beef, as well as the rear seats and floorboard up level with the back of the front seats. We made it home, but we were definitely riding slow and low, praying the whole time we wouldn't have a blowout and have to unload 500 pounds of meat to get to the spare (or be stranded with a 1/2-ton of thawing beef on the side of the road)!!
  • topcop1topcop1 Posts: 28
    I may take my '06 Impala LTZ on a road trip from Philadelphia to Peterborough Ontario Canada. Can anyone tell what fuel mileage I can expect on a long distance trip using the cruise control,average speed 70-80 mph. I figure using all Interstate highways ( I-81 in Pa/NY,401/115 in Canada)I should see 25MPG or better. Any thoughts?
  • cnwcnw Posts: 105
    I anticipate that you will meet or exceed the 25 mpg figure. I have a 2006 LT2 with the 3.5L engine. On interstate highways with no stop and go conditions, driving 70-75 mph I've averaged 32 mpg with no special efforts. I wouldn't be surprised if the 3.9L would get figures approximating the same. I've seen a number of folks with SS cars that average 25-28 mpg at the freeway speeds you indicate. Enjoy the trip.
  • does anyone know of a super charger for the 3.9 liter 2006 chevrolet impala
  • jpstax1jpstax1 Posts: 197
    Not that I'm aware of. But, if you're thinking of adding a S/C to gain HP, why not just swap your 3.9 for a GM crate engine? (although I'm not sure it can be used in FWD cars)

    You'll be gaining more HP (and torque) without the possibility of cooking your 3.9 engine. Or better yet, see if you can swap the 3.9 V-6 for a 5.3 (LS4) V-8. That engine would probably connect right up to your present FWD tranny.
  • quietproquietpro Posts: 702
    The Impala SS comes with a heavy duty tranny with it's 5.3L V-8. Not sure you want to go that route with a standard tranny.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    Better take a pillow or something. I have a 2006 LT2 with the cloth seats and anything over about 5 hours my back hurts when I get out. Also the seat is too short and my thighs sort of ache after about 6-7 hours. I can drive my '03 Deville for days and get out and walk upright at the end of a day. I tried my Impala on an 8 hour trip to Denver and will confine it to 3-5 hour trips from now on and dump it next year. Should have bought a LaCrosse. The seats are longer.
  • bh0001bh0001 Posts: 340
    I've only had one tank that got 25mpg on my '06 LTZ, and that was in the dead of winter on a long trip on Hwy 401.

    My overall average mileage is a shade over 20 mpg for the 25k miles I've driven the car so far. However, I am definitely a lead-foot!
  • deminindeminin Posts: 214
    This past May, we drove from central Missouri to Las Vegas. We have a 2006 LTZ with the 3.9 engine. Going West, and using Cruise Control most of the way, I got about 26.8 MPG. On the way back, I decided to drive for maximum mileage, and check it closely. Running on I-40 across Arizona, NM, Texas, and Oklahoma, with the AC ON, and the cruise control OFF, I averaged 30.1 MPG, and the average speed over about 1200 miles was 72.3 MPH. The key, IMO, is NOT using cruise control. It should be called Speed Control, instead. On long downslopes, I was running as high as 90MPH, whereas on some of the uphill grades, I might drop back to 65MPH. I think that by tailoring my driving to the road, and not relying on CC, I can beat the CC mileage by at least 3MPG.
  • dispencer2dispencer2 Posts: 299
    I have the 3.5 and usually get between 30 and 33 on trips in the flatlands. I always use cruise control and there should be no fuel penalty on the plains. Cruise control is not very useful in the mountains. There is something wrong with yours if it ranges between 90 and 65. One of the problems with cruise control which probably eats gas is the quick acceleration after you slow down and then hit the resume button. I find it useful on long trips on Interstates. It is annoying on busy two lane roads.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Little Rock, ARPosts: 872
    I've read somewhere that the key to good mileage isn't maintaining a constant speed of the car, but a constant RPM of the engine. Obviously car manufacturers can't install a RPM controller, because as you said you'd be flying down hills and crawling up them. So if you route is hilly I agree cruise control could hinder you from getting optimum mileage. My car (2000 base model) doesn't have a tach on it, but if it did it'd be interesting to experiment a little and see how much difference it'd make to run at a set RPM (and if nothing else it'd keep you alert as you drove through some pretty desolate areas).

    Having grown up on a farm, it's interesting that on most tractors the throttle is a lever, and you adjust it to the RPM you want (and there's a optimum point marked on the tach), and then use the multiple gears (usually several forward gears, plus a high/low range so you have lots of options) to control your speed. Obviously you're not worried about speed limits or other traffic when you're rolling across an empty field, but it's the same concept you're talking about.
  • steve333steve333 Posts: 201
    Anyone get this recall notice? I saw it on my mothers onstar vehicle diagnostics notification but no other info was given.
  • donw4donw4 Posts: 2
    Can anyone tell me what an FE3 suspension is? I need new struts and some are for FE3. thanx donw
  • donw4donw4 Posts: 2
    Can anyone out there tell me what the heck an FE3 suspension is? I am buying new struts and some are for that type of suspension . How do I identify this?
    1991 chevy corsica
  • martin22martin22 Posts: 53
    Google it, dear Henry.
    You will find a wealth of information there
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Posts: 133
    In May I said I wasn't coming back on because all I had was problems to talk about. If anyone is still checking in here, I need your help if you have dealt with the BBB at all. My problems are still not fixed and I have an arbitration hearing the 14th. I've never been through anything like this before, so give me any tips you have on what I need to do to get them to fix or replace my car. What do I take in the way of statements and witnesses? Are posts from here where people have had the same problem, or where they have no problems at all beneficial? Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
  • I don't think references to "anonymous" posts would work but if you could get the folks with the same problems to possibly send you signed statements about them having the same types of problems that you're having, that would probably help. I think the vast majority of the cars on the road without problems would be sufficient evidence that you should be able to get a good car with no defects.

    You had paint chips and transmission issues, correct? How are things going these days? Any updates?
  • Hind sight is 20\20 but if you sign a paper supposedly explaining the lemon law it gives them the right to bring in an arbitrator and he decides your fate.In wisconsin the lemon law is just that LAW.If you have so many problems in a certain amount of time you get a new car or your money back.They like to slip that paper in which takes away your rights in case of problems.A friend of mine lost 8,000 dollars on a month old truck because of this,and it doesn't matter what dealership you go to (chevy,dodge,toyota,honda,etc.)So when there shoving all these papers in front of you to sign watch out for that one they can't force you to sign.I know this doesn't help you now but it might in the future,good luck.
  • white6white6 Posts: 588
    Be prepared! Have everything down on paper, so when asked you can refer without having to depend on your memory. GM rep will try to make it sound like they are perfect and you are to blame for everything. Or that what you are complaining about is normal operation of the car. Bring all documentation you can (receipts from service visits, etc.). The arbitor will want ask questions; if you are in the right, just answer as honestly and unemotionally as possible. You won't score any points by yelling or getting mad; just the opposite. I'm batting .500 on lemon law buy-backs. It's supposed to be non-partisan, but rarely is.
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Posts: 133
    Thanks to all of you. Thankfully, I am told that with arbitration through the BBB the manufacturer is bound by the decision, but I am not. I can reject it. Of course, that would leave court if I wanted to continue and they could bring the arbitration offer into the case. I'm finding that the BBB is not necessarily consumer friendly. The hearing is the 14th and I still haven't gotten the packet they said they mailed the 5th. They called the 6th to give me the date.

    I admit, it is all very intimidating. I have service tickets, receipts from the car rental agency where they provided a car, the "final repair attempt" list with the Gm dist. rep's signature (he didn't even have them take it in for a try at repairing, just told me obviously I didn't need to keep this car and offered to let me trade it in), my notes and some other things.

    I keep being told I can have witnesses and ask GM's person questions. I'm still trying to figure out what questions would be good to ask them. As far as witnesses, I don't the ones I really need would be able to get off work, so I'm hoping they will do the written statements.
  • wbowl99wbowl99 Posts: 133
    Yes, paint, transmission and some other things. An update is going to take a little bit. On the paint. It was a fiasco as I was afraid it would be. They kept my car in the shop about a month all total. It kept having to go back to the body shop because they kept messing it up. Dull spots, scratches, bubbles and trash in the paint, runs, chunks of paint off under the edge of the hood, etc. And every time they took it in, they put scratches on it, especially along the joints. After the service mgr couldn't get it done right, I involved the dealer's general manager. He said they would fix everything, but he even sent it back once. After 2 weeks and all the places were not fixed, he said he obviously couldn't please me and would not send it back. By that time I didn't want them to touch it again either. I may have to deal with that part separately against the dealer. I hope not since GM authorized the first fix. They refuse to do anything about the paint rubbing off in the door wells saying it is normal. As soon as it gets past the primer that's showing now, it will start to rust.

    The transmission issue is still there. There's a slight vibration that I feel all the way up to 60 mph or so almost like there is a slight miss in the engine. I kept being told it had to do with the transmission, but I think it might be in the suspension or tires. After asking several times, they finally checked the tire balance and all 4 were considerably out of balance. That took the vibration down some, but the slight one is still there.

    There is a ticking/tapping sound coming from the front of the car. I can hear it inside the car. It started early on but has gotten more and more consistent. They say they can't hear it and it's normal sounds. Funny that my sister and others can hear it.

    The heater/AC is still acting up. The other day the AC went from blowing on recirculate to blowing with outside air. Don't know why, but then it went back to recirculate.

    The doors are misaligned and they haven't fixed them. And there are some other things. I'd like to enjoy driving my Impala, but so far things have not been fun.
  • I haven't been checking my email very regularly lately but hopefully things will go well for you tomorrow. I'll keep my fingers crossed. I would guess that the vibration is likely bad tires since the Good Years are often junk. I will never pay good money for them. The heater/AC problem is common on the Impala and is a programming issue. But, with all the other problems you're having, particularly the paint, that car is a wash. Hopefully, they'll do right by you and ease your suffering. Again...I wish you all the best. Please come back and tell us how it went!
  • white6white6 Posts: 588
    Sounds like the very definition of "Lemon" to me. Hopefully the arbitor will agree and you can get on with your life. These things are not worth the headache; a car is supposed to be an asset, not a liability.
  • I took my 06 impala 3LT to chevy dealer earlier this year and they told me that alot of problems i had were normal.

    The car would vibrate back and forth (on flat or incline levels) when i ease of gas pedal, they said this was perfectly normal for this car and if the car is on an incline and rocks back and forth this is normal for the transmission. I told them about car seems like it slightly misses when flooring it, and was told it was fine and the transmission shifts rougher than any GM car ive drive at low speeds and was told that was normal by the dealership. So when they test drive the car aggresive it shifts smooth, but when driven normally with a light amount of gas like normal people drive it shifts rough and they just cant seem to catch it.

    The ticking sound form passenger compartment is from a coolant pipe they will have to replace and it will still give a slight ticking sound afterwards.

    A random chime will go off when the radio is on sometimes, can be heard if audio is muted and will only go away if turn signal is activated or if the radio is turned off for 10+ mins. (CANT REPLICATE)

    Parking brake doesnt hold for reverse, but will not let car roll foward (WAS TOLD THIS IS NORMAL TOO)

    Intermitt. problems with power steering being very heavy at times (CANT REPLICATE)

    Remote start still doesnt have good range when approaching from the side of car, 20 ft at best sometimes

    IF you go to , you will see all the TSB's for the 06 model, so if they dont fix them, i would recommend you trade car for 08 imapla where they have seemed to work out the bugs by now or a 08 malibu v6, because most of the items you have listed will be at your expense to fix once the 3/36 warranty runs up on the car. As you can see with some GM dealers, if the problem in not in a manual that says its a problem, they will just consider it normal.
Sign In or Register to comment.