Ford Super Duty Continued - VIII

12467…12

Comments

  • whamm1069whamm1069 Member Posts: 8
    I took delivery on my y2k 250 xlt manual trans V-10 in February. I experience the same clunk. But if you shift and roll on the gas at the perfect time of shift engagement it doesnt do it. I almost have it down where I never hear it anymore.I have to agree with hubrex because I had a load of 25 sheets of 3/4" plywood and did not experience the noise.Dont forget this is a beast of a truck with intense torque.My truck is going to stay in MY garage not the dealers. I am patting myself on the back for the truck that I have chosen. This truck gets alot of looks especially from those D%dg% wanna be Ford SD drivers. I hope you make the right choice.
    ( FORD )
    First On Race Day
  • koakeykoakey Member Posts: 109
    3400 is a bit late for an initial change IMO :) We dropped ours out at 1K miles.

    www.ford-diesel.com has had a number of discussions on dyno vs synthetic oil so I'd check it out. I would, however, recommend a bypass filter. From the information I've gathered, an oil bypass filter will definitely help extend the life of your engine. I think we'll go with synthetic but not until about 10K miles and let the engine get nicely broke in (the PSDs take longer to break in than the gassers).

    f-d has also had a number of discussions on rear gear and ATF fluid as well.
  • shotgun1shotgun1 Member Posts: 57
    Those magnets on the fuel line can( and did on my old 86 F-150) cause a build up of junk at that point in the line. That build up can(and did on the above truck) break free and head in to clog an injector or worse! Never will I add that gimick to my new $35K SD!!! Just my opinion and personal experience.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Goleta,
    If I had to guess MPG of a 4x2, auto, 5.4L CC, 4.10, I would expect it to be in the 13.x range with mixed city/highway, and 15.x to maybe a 16 on highway..
    I too live where its relativly flat, Raleigh NC area..

    Wburbank,
    I really don't think you'll get a good return on investment by using synthetic motor oil in your PSD. Of course, this is my opinion.
    Some things to remember are:
    - It takes 15 quarts of oil per change.
    - Diesels run at relatively low tempature, so a good diesel motor oil (eg. Shell Rotella-T) will have no problems performing..
    - Diesel motors are known for their longevity naturally, without the need for synthetics.. This longevity is due to many factors including lower running rpms, lower tempatures, and the fuel itself being a lubricant.
  • ezgoinezgoin Member Posts: 18
    Eric,

    Before ordering I had found my best price at
    Darlings Ford in Bangor ME who agreed to 500 over Edmunds invoice. Im on the road for work, so I had opportunities to visit "all" the dealers (Ipswich Ford, Portsmouth Ford-incl Wiscassett ME, Danvers Ford, 128 Ford etc.) No one would touch 500 over. In the end, my deal was made right in my back door @ Walls Ford Old RT1 in Salisbury. I initially never visited because they are a small dealer. However, I told them the truck I wanted & if they could save me a 4 hr trip up to Maine to do business, I would leave a cash deposit. Simple as that, the deal was done. Jamie Eaton was my "Sales Girl" and Im happy to say, she proved she could handle herself just fine. Sorry for not replying back sooner but I havent been here in weeks. Just been hangin out with the Crew Cab formin the bond. Happy to say were gettin along real good.
  • goletagoleta Member Posts: 24
    Thanks for the last reply about MPG. My SD may be built by now. (Build week was scheduled for this week and I can't wait for more info.)

    What brand motor oil & weight, air filters, etc. do you recommend on the new SD and what interval changes? First at 1K then 3K after that?

    Better question, what should I be doing with the new SD the first few hundred miles and thereafter?

    I'm sure the dealer will go over many of those things with me and the manual will also have info. I'm interested in what the reality is and take excellent care of my SD.
  • endinmaineendinmaine Member Posts: 12
    Thanks for the very helpful information. I live in Danvers and have visited the dealers you mentioned , except Walls. They just laugh and show me the door. They want $1500-2500 over invoice.

    Thanks again.
  • koakeykoakey Member Posts: 109
    You will get information from the dealer on break-in. In general, no cruise control or constant speeds for the first 500 miles (as I recall :). No towing for the first 1K miles. Also try to avoid going over 2500 rpm for the first 500 miles. The impression I get is that PSD break-in can be from 5K-10K miles (much longer than a gasser).

    I'd recommend first oil change at 1K miles. Interval after that will depend on many things; engine use/abuse, oil type (dyno vs synthetic), bypass or no bypass filter, personal preference and beliefs.

    Synthetic oils at dyno intervals are not cost effective. Synthetic oils at extended drain intervals can be cost effective. As I've said before, check out www.ford-diesel.com . This had been hashed over many times there... pro's and con's of extended drains, oil type, oil mfg. etc. Some folks are a big believer of synthetic oils with extended drains while others are not. There is no right answer except yours :)

    We will most likely be going with a bypass filter (didn't get it ordered in time for the 4K change so it will probably go in at 7K) and synthetic at 10K miles (after Rotella at 1K, 4K and 7K).

    We also are going to go for regular oil analysis from Blackstone (www.blackstone.com). I'd consider this as well. There are other companies that do oil analysis, we've decided to use Blackstone.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    First 500 miles: vary speeds, no cruise, don't be too hard on the brakes (let them seat properly), and don't go red-lining the engine. No towing as well.

    I changed my oil at 3k miles, and every 3k after that. I use motorcraft filters, avoid Fram as those oil filters dont have the anti-drain back valve on them, which keeps oil in the top end of the engine when its stopped.

    I'm currently using Valvoline 5w-30 in my SD, but I'd really like to use Texaco Havoline instead, but I can't always find it in the 5w-30 weight which is what is recommended weight for the SD.
    On my Ranger that has over 190K miles, I only used Texaco Havoline 10w-30, which is why I had a preference for this brand. However, I think all of the major brands are equally capabable if you change them at 3K intervals..

    Check your tire wear often, and be sure to rotate them around every 5K miles or so. I'm rotating mine every 6K miles, or every other oil change.
    For tire pressure, check the label on the door jamb for the recommended pressures NOT the label on the tires.. Also, the listed pressure (on the door jamb) for the rear tires is for when your fully loaded, you'll be able to run considerably less pressure when your empty..
    I'm running 51 lbs in both front and rears.. The label called for 45 front/70 rear. At 45 in the fronts, I think I was seeing some slight wear on the edges so I upped the pressure a bit. This is probably due to the type of roads I travel on etc.

    I'm still experiementing with pressures to see what gives me the best riding feel/best wear.. I might try the chalk-on-tire trick to check my contact patch..

    Have fun! These are great trucks!
  • fbroomfbroom Member Posts: 29
    I picked up my beast this past Tuesday, 5/23, at a local dealer. Config is F250 SD SC Lariat, 4x2, V10, auto, 3.73 LS, green/gold, and practically every option available. It took 18 weeks from order to delivery. But let me tell you, as you've probably already heard, I will offer my full agreement with the sentiment that it was well, I mean well, worth the wait! This is a totally awesome truck that seems to be even more so than I remember from my first test drive back in January. I would have posted sooner but I've either been driving it or looking at it since taking receipt. I'm like a 16 year old getting his first car/truck. My wife thinks I'm nuts but she just doesn't understand.

    I have to add that my salesman was superb from start to finish. When I started this process back in January, I wasn't able to find a local dealer that would even talk to me for less than $2000 over invoice. (I never checked with this dealer for no particular reason.) As a result, I took what I considered to be a risk and placed a bid using priceline.com. My salesman, who is the dealership's internet sales rep, responded favorably to my offer and the rest is history. My original price was $400 over invoice and of course I had to order. During the course of the wait, Ford made the sliding rear window and privacy glass standard features on the Lariat package vice options. These happened to be about the only options I had elected not to get. Additionally, the destination charge increased. I was expecting the dealer to pass on the price increase when we signed all the final papers, but I was simply told that my original price agreement was "price protected". Result: I paid not a penny more than my original price. Further, the salesman briefly mentioned an extended warranty but quickly moved on when I declined the offer. No pressure, no gimmicks, no surprises. I actually ended up paying around $150 over invoice. The truck was in perfect condition (no dents, dings, scratches) and not missing any ordered options. I couldn't be happier with the experience.

    Sorry for the long post but wanted to share my experience. There are good dealers and salesmen out there. Not all are snakes looking to make a quick buck at your expense. Oh yeah, dealer was Duval Ford in Jacksonville, FL and salesman's name is Mike Tudor.

    For those still waiting, hang in there. When you finally get your rig, the agony of the wait melts away with the satisfaction of having the best looking, best equipped, and best built truck on the road.
  • fbroomfbroom Member Posts: 29
    I picked up my beast this past Tuesday, 5/23, at a local dealer. Config is F250 SD SC Lariat, 4x2, V10, auto, 3.73 LS, green/gold, and practically every option available. It took 18 weeks from order to delivery. But let me tell you, as you've probably already heard, I will offer my full agreement with the sentiment that it was well, I mean well, worth the wait! This is a totally awesome truck that seems to be even more so than I remember from my first test drive back in January. I would have posted sooner but I've either been driving it or looking at it since taking receipt. I'm like a 16 year old getting his first car/truck. My wife thinks I'm nuts but she just doesn't understand.

    I have to add that my salesman was superb from start to finish. When I started this process back in January, I wasn't able to find a local dealer that would even talk to me for less than $2000 over invoice. (I never checked with this dealer for no particular reason.) As a result, I took what I considered to be a risk and placed a bid using priceline.com. My salesman, who is the dealership's internet sales rep, responded favorably to my offer and the rest is history. My original price was $400 over invoice and of course I had to order. During the course of the wait, Ford made the sliding rear window and privacy glass standard features on the Lariat package vice options. These happened to be about the only options I had elected not to get. Additionally, the destination charge increased. I was expecting the dealer to pass on the price increase when we signed all the final papers, but I was simply told that my original price agreement was "price protected". Result: I paid not a penny more than my original price. Further, the salesman briefly mentioned an extended warranty but quickly moved on when I declined the offer. No pressure, no gimmicks, no surprises. I actually ended up paying around $150 over invoice. The truck was in perfect condition (no dents, dings, scratches) and not missing any ordered options. I couldn't be happier with the experience.

    Sorry for the looonnnggg post but wanted to share my experience. There are good dealers and salesmen out there. Not all are snakes looking to make a quick buck at your expense. Oh yeah, dealer was Duval Ford in Jacksonville, FL and salesman's name is Mike Tudor.

    For those still waiting, hang in there. When you finally get your rig, the agony of the wait melts away with the satisfaction of having the best looking, best equipped, and best built truck on the road.
  • fbroomfbroom Member Posts: 29
    Sorry for the double post. Dooohhhh!
  • koakeykoakey Member Posts: 109
    If your name is on the order and the price has increased between order and arrival, you, and only you, get the ordered price (price protection). If you ordered the truck, the price increased and you walked away from the truck, whoever bought the truck would pay the increased price.

    FoMoCo invoices the dealer based on price at shipment. When the dealer submits the buyer info to Ford and the name of the buyer matches the same of the orderer, the dealer gets a credit for the difference (at least that's how I understand it works).
  • sundancesundance Member Posts: 14
    I have a 1999 F250 SD V-10 with 27000 miles. Since new it uses one qt+ of oil per 1000 miles empty and 1 qt per 900 when towing. The Dealer checked with Ford and was told that 1qt per 900 is normal when empty and 1qt per 750 when towing is normal. Neither the Dealer nor I can believe this. How do I start the process of pressuring Ford to replace the engine or fix it?
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Call the 1-800 customer service number to start with. They probably won't do much, but they do document everything you say.

    Since FoMoCo has taken the stand that what you are seeing is 'normal', your options are limited.

    Be sure to state that you are not satisfied as most modern new vehicles do not have this trait of using a quart of oil per 1000 miles..
    Either, this particular engine isn't up to typcial Ford quality standards, in which case they should attempt to diag the problem and solve it.
    Or, Fords quality standards are far too low, and you will discourage other individuals and business to not buy Ford products because of low quality standards..

    Their response could be: Big whoop.. or possibly they will ask, what they can do to remedy the situation..

    Your response will be based on how far you want to take it. Pick one of the following.
    a. Ask them to fix the problem
    b. replace the engine
    c. would you settle for an extended warranty? You believe this problem is an indication of a problem, and you would like assurances that this is normal.. They can show their commitment to you by granting you an extended engine warranty.. It costs them nothing if the engine doesn't fail.
    d. Start the work through Ford arbitration, (ie, lemon law).. although this might be tough as Ford has documented that this is normal.. So you could end up with nothing.. Ask your dealer for the Ford Arbitration Packet to start this process..
    e. try your own remedys. What happens if you run 10w-30 oil?
    f. Since the truck is an early 99, convince the dealer that it has the rare but infamous piston-slap problem, in which case the engine gets replaced.. :)

    To be honest, I'm not sure what I'd do in your case.. Good Luck..
  • goletagoleta Member Posts: 24
    I made my weekly Friday call to my dealer today. This week was my scheduled build week and in fact, found out today that my SD was built this week on Wednesday, 5/24. (Ordered 4/17)

    The bad news was that another week was added on to the Estimated Week of Delivery from 6/12 to 6/19 and it's status also does not indicate it's been released to convoy/rail.

    I'm hopeful that it is standard for them to say 3 weeks (since it's later in the build week anyway) and it might get in sooner, say 2 weeks. They probably have to fill the rail cars I suppose.

    It would be a great Fathers Day present!!

    I'll check status next week to see if it's on rail.

    Anybody know if tracking rail by www.BNSF.com applies to SD's from Mexico ?????

    Have a nice Memorial weekend everyone! Be safe, have fun, but remember what Memorial Day is.
  • blightblight Member Posts: 22
    I have a 99 F250 V-10 SC LB 4X4 3.73 LS. I would like to know if anyone else has had a light scraping sound under very light acceleration and about 1500 rpm. I hear it best at about 35 mph, and it disappears when I let off the gas. It is so light that the road and engine noise drown it out when I get up to about 40 or 50 mph, so I doubt any of you diesel owners would hear it even if it is there. Mine started at about 4k miles. I have a friend that heard the same thing and told me it went away at 12k miles. The only thing I can think it may be is in the automatic transmission. If that is true, I am going to have a lot of metal shavings in there. I have had it to the dealer a few times, and they conveniently can't hear it, but my 68 year old Father and everyone else who has rode in it can.

    Any info anyone has on this would be greatly appreciated.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    I've not heard it refered to as a 'scraping' sound, but what I think your hearing is refered to as flutter..

    It only occurs under acceleration, and disappears when you reach a constant speed. I think for different folks in different trucks the sound has different intensity.
    Other ways this sound has been described:
    - light knocking or pinging
    - like a sewing machine
    - air pulsing or air escaping
    - noisy lifters
    - absolutely annoying..

    The cause is something to do with the air flow through Y pipe at the exaust causing a standing wave.. It is not harmful to the engine in any way..

    Is it possible that this is what your hearing?
  • connonconnon Member Posts: 52
    I get an annoying scrape from what seems to be the left rear brake rotor when I am turning to the left.It is really apparent on a winding road and shuts right up when I give it some brake pedal.I read many posts back, something about brake cables rubbing or something like that.Anybody else? 99 F250,v10,4x4,sc,sb .
  • blightblight Member Posts: 22
    I might be willing to believe it was that if it was at a very specific condition. I hear this at speeds from about 20 to 50+ mph and it is consistant through a range of several hundred rpms around 1500. It also has a definite metallic sound to it, kind of like a can opener type of knife sharpener when you are sharpening a knife. Also, if it was an air flow type of sound, why would it suddenly start at 4k miles? We were on vacation last year when my wife and I both noticed it. It didn't gradually change either, it wasn't there one day, and the next day it showed up.
    My dealer has replaced some idle valve, warmed it up and loosened the transmission bolts to let it equalize and then retighten, and most recently adjusted the idle position sensor and tried to tell me it was some flashing material on the plastic air intake.
    I do hear other air and exhaust noises, but I do realize with a truck that big and an engine that large, you will have these noises. It is only when there is a definite metallic noise to it that I become worried.
    Thanks for the input.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Yep, what you describe is different.. The flutter is there from day 1.. Good luck, I'm sure they'll figure out your problem.
  • gicgic Member Posts: 9
    You might want to check out the ford diesel forums. www.ford-diesel.com You can search a topic. There's been a lot of discussion about torque converter rattle. I don't think the tranny is modified for the psd so you may encounter the same problem with the V 10. Havn't read any of those threads so I've no idea what it might sound like.
  • wingmasterwingmaster Member Posts: 12
    Well tomorrow is May 31st, the day my dealer had said my SD will be in. I called him today and he said it would be in and I should be able to pick her up. The order went in April 13th so it will be about 7 weeks not the fastest but not bad from what I'm reading. I ordered:

    2000 F-250 XLT, PSD, auto, Super cab, 3.73ls white

    It will tough to get to sleep tonight.
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Member Posts: 262
    While backing out of my garage last night, say 15 feet onto the drive way (drive way is sloped) foot on the brake backing down, I get a sudden acceleration for about 10 seconds then it quit. Lucky my foot was on the brake, it was like somebody stepped on the gas. I was wearing my tennies and my feet aren't large enough to push the gas & the brake at same time. But I'll take a better look tonight after work. Other then that the truck has been running good. I'm still researching the clank, replacing cab mounts didn't solve the problem.
  • dwucherdwucher Member Posts: 79
    Put 1340 miles on the beast over the weekend. Got 13.3 on the freeway. Not bad i guess. Other than the mileage the truck was great. y2k f250 sd cc 4x4 v10 5sp. 4.30ls 3700 miles.
  • lilelmolilelmo Member Posts: 144
    I've got sorta big feet (13's) and I sometimes get my big galooting foot on the brake and gas at the same time in my wife's van (Astro), but never on the SD. The one time I was having a problem with it, I had new sneaks with a wider sole than I had had. Once I noticed it, I avoided the problem. Try to do duplicate it with one foot on each pedal.Good luck.
  • 65cobra65cobra Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone experienced gear noise in 4x4? Dealer said it is gear roll over (whatever that is)in the front axle and it is normal. I've had several Ford 4X4's and none of them made any noise in 4x4.It's loudest on deceleration. No noise with just the hubs locked but as soon as the transfer case is shifted into 4H the noise starts. (I don't have ESOF)

    Also, Those of you with 350 DRW. Is there a fair amount of suspension noise? Hard to explain but it kind of sounds like something loose, a rattle on minor road surface inperfections. Dealer said, you guessed it...it's normal.

    One last comment. There has been alot of discussion about rail dust here and on Forddiesel.com. My truck had it and after discovering the dealer was going to "remove" it with a clay bar (which the TSB states never to do) I purchased the chemicals and did it myself. Rail dust is a serious problem if left unattended. I have a 89 Thunderbird that never had it removed (because no one knew what it was). In about 1 year little holes began to appear in the paint. It is so bad now that if I try to wax it all the little holes fill with wax and I end up with a red car covered with little white specks. This is not what you want to see on your SD...check for it and, if you have it, do something about it before it is too late.

    Up to now truck has been great. Driver side rear door window leaks but the dealer is supposed to fix that. Around town 11 MPG. (Y2k Black 350 SC DRW 4X4 Lariat V10 Auto 4.30 limited slip trailer tow).
  • pistoleropistolero Member Posts: 52
    I get thumps from under my 350 DRW going over small bumps too. I'm not positive, but I'm guessing it's the exhaust system moving around in it's hangers. Sounds like something really bad, but I've crawled all over and it's the only thing I could find.
  • dwucherdwucher Member Posts: 79
    y2k f250 sd 4x4 srw cc sb 5sp. I have all kinds of racket underneath also. Everything seems to be tight though. I had the rail dust, and the dealership told me they knew all about the tsb and had the chemicals on hand. The jerks ended up using clay. Really screwed up the hood. Will probably have to have it repainted someday. They will never touch my truck again!!!
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Member Posts: 262
    Have their body shop repaint now, why should you pay later......
  • kevmdudkevmdud Member Posts: 1
    I am ordering a 2001 Ford F-350 Super Duty Crew
    Cab DRW Short 6 3/4' Box. Is Ford going to offer
    this truck is any colors other than white or the
    Black LE. Also, I have been told I can order
    sometime in late June. Any info on the new 2001
    model changes would be great!! Thanks, Kevin
  • koakeykoakey Member Posts: 109
    Check out

    http://forums.ford-diesel.com:8080/ubb/Forum18/HTML/000425.html

    for some information on the 2001s. You can order them (or should be able to) but the dealer won't have pricing or color chips for a while yet.

    As for the SD CC DRW shortbed any color as long as it's white, that is the case for the 2Ks and haven't seen any indication that that will change for the 2001. This also has been discussed at www.ford-diesel.com.
  • goletagoleta Member Posts: 24
    Spoke to my dealer today. My weekly Friday update about my F250 SD CC 2WD auto. 5.4L ...

    As of last Friday, I only knew that it was built on a Wednesday 5/24 and not on rail yet. Today, I've learned that it is on rail and assigned to a rail car. I was able to get all the important info from the dealer. (SD was built in Hermosillo, (Sonora), Mexico. Now on rail (Union Pacific Railroad (rail car # TTGX969357) trace by entering the rail car # in the Equipment ID field at this link www.uprr.com/pub/pet/

    I am able to trace the rail as it moves along and it gets updated very frequently. It's been past several cities across Arizona just today. It's close to the California border now. I was also able to search the cities and map the locations using www.msn.maps.expedia.com/QuickMaps.asp

    I also know from the dealer that the estimated week of delivery is now 6/18. When it gets to the destination (ramp ??) I think it comes the rest of the way by car-hauler (truck). Hope to know that next Friday.

    As you can tell, I'm getting very excited !!!!

    Let's hope it gets to me by Fathers Day !!
  • vintagebldrsvintagebldrs Member Posts: 25
    Truck is going great, no complaints. Any one have a good suggestion for a functional seat cover??
    Hot tar and cloth seats don`t seem to fit! So far I am able to cover them, but could use a few good hints.(Calling all tradesmen!) $1.59/gal in NY
    Ouch!
  • wingmasterwingmaster Member Posts: 12
    Picked her up Wednesday just like the dealer told me. Put 300 miles so far, the best riding truck I've ever been in. I plan on putting another 300 miles on it this weekend. Never been so excited to pump fuel in my life, I'm sure this will change soon.

    My one concern at this time is I got the the trailer tow package but did not get the hitch. I ASSUMEd for a $150 bucks you would get more than the wires. The dealer said (when I was picking the truck up, not when I ordered) the hitch was a separate item. Is it raining or is my leg wet from something else? Other wise real happy. Time to go driving again.
  • dave84dave84 Member Posts: 75
    The hitch is indeed a separate item. The TT package includes wiring and fuses for brake controller and trailer lights. Being able to skip the Ford factory option hitch and get one on your own is a plus, IMHO.

    Dave
  • wingmasterwingmaster Member Posts: 12
    Thanks dave84. I was out today asking around and was told the same by everyone I talked to. I ordered a real class V hitch today. I don't need one this heavy for my boat but you never know what the future holds. Somethings do workout for the better.

    I filled the truck up for the first time took 26 gallons and I had driven 434 miles, looks like 16.69 mpg mainly running around the back roads, it should only go up from here.(2000 white, xlt,PSD, auto, manual transfer case, stock 235 tires for now)
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Gotta love these trucks. Just turned 9000 miles and the mpg is around 16mpg with mixed driving, and in the high 17's with an occasional 18 when doing only highway..
    Now that the temps in the day are in the mid 90's, I re-confirmed the reason I like white trucks..


    The latest 'nit-pick' I have:
    When turning at low speeds (like in a parking lot), sometimes there's a slight popping sound comming from what sounds like the floor of the cab.
    I've heard of a TSB for CrewCabs about this, but nothing for SuperCabs.
    I'm wondering if its occuring now that the temp's are getting fairly high, thus the rubber cab mounts might have a bit of extra flex in them? I'm just guessing here.. Anyone else have any ideas..
  • jimvetajimveta Member Posts: 96
    I've read good things about these Wet Okole
    covers which i'm planning on getting myself:
    image
    image

    some info:
    - Completely 100% waterproof and fit your seats like a glove
    - Made of high-quality nylon-laminated neoprene wetsuit material
    - 1/2" foam padding

    available at http://www.caraccessories.com and
    http://www.performanceproducts.com (although I
    didn't see on perf prod's online catalog, but it's
    in the print catalog)
  • tdevil1tdevil1 Member Posts: 25
    I had a popping sound on my blazer. It came from the nerf bars not being tight enough. They took an impact gun and tightened them and the popping sound went away. It only popped when I was turning. Hope the info helps.
  • bowhuntwibowhuntwi Member Posts: 262
    Look at the Sport Seat Sheilds from Cabela's, they're heavy duty. I have them and they work great for me. I just throw them for hunting & fishing, roll em up & store behind back in there own carrying case when going out onto the town.
  • koakeykoakey Member Posts: 109
    SDs in Mexico are built in Cuautitlan, not Hermosillo. I'd assume that the trucks are loaded on the rail car in Cuautitlan.

    Hope you see it by Father's Day :)
  • longhairlonghair Member Posts: 72
    I have the Wet Okole seat covers on my truck and think they are great for people who are always wet and muddy. They don't allow your skin to breath as well as the cloth factory seats do-but they're better than vinyl seats.
    When I get in the truck dripping wet, the seat cover gets wet, but when I get home I wipe it down with a towel and leave the window open overnight and tomorrow the seat is dry and clean. (I do this about 3 times a week now that boating/canoeing season is upon us.) The factory seat underneath is still dry and clean. (I pull the covers about once/month to wash them and let them hang to dry.
    So far my 5 year old nephew hasn't managed to stain the back seat - but I haven't let any juice sit for more than a few minutes.
    Biggest caveat would be the price. $500+ for both seats (crewcab), but I guess that's cheaper than replacing the seat itself.
  • summitxsummitx Member Posts: 25
    Took the truck to Seattle last week (680 miles each way) and here are my observations - Got 12 MPG on the way up. The only thing I changed since my last highway mileage test ( which yielded 14 MPG ) is that I bought and installed the factory splash guards. I have a hard time believing that they could cause enough wind drag to cost me 2 MPG! I decided to run a test and drop my tailgate on the way back. 15.5 MPG steady! I can't believe the difference the tailgate can make!

    Now on to the important stuff - Just got the truck back from the dealership for looking into the Sputter/Flutter noise that we've all heard about. Well, according to FORD, this is normal! Bull!@#$ !! The noise that mine makes is NOT normal and if it is normal, I'm switching back to GM! Here are the details:

    Sounds like an exhaust leak with a broken-up catalytic converter."SputterSputterRattleRattleCrackleCrackleBang"

    Only does it after the truck is good and hot. Once it starts, it is consistent.

    The sound is most pronounced when gently accelerating up a hill at low speed.

    According to Ford, and the dealer, this is not the same problem as described in Service Letter #13519 ( See http://forums.ford-diesel.com:8080/ubb/Forum20/HTML/000089.html )

    Sound familiar to anyone? If so, I'd like to hear any details you may have.

    Later..
  • BrutusBrutus Member Posts: 1,113
    summitx, I made a few trips from Seattle to LA with the 92 F-250HD I owned. I always got better mpg on the way from Seattle to LA than LA to Seattle. I have to believe that it either has something to do with wind direction or possibly more climbing, possibly on inclines that are not noticed. I'm not sure, but it seems too coincidental that I always did better heading south. From 1993 to 1997, I made two complete roundtrips from LA to Seattle and the result was the same both times.
  • summitxsummitx Member Posts: 25
    That's strange?? I guess either Seattle Blows, or LA Sucks!
  • goletagoleta Member Posts: 24
    Anyone remember the name or acronym for the chemical used (by Ford, per TSB) to clean the rail dust off? SD coming soon and I want to make sure they don't use clay!
  • psmith13psmith13 Member Posts: 32
    Had a beautiful day out this week and decided I would detail my new SD. During the wax job I noticed that on the right side of the hood and the top of the left front fender the paint did not cover well from the factory. Have washed the truck many times but never did notice this. The truck is black but in these two areas it is a dark brown. I purchased the truck in Oregon but live in Alaska. Any suggestions on the approach to getting the areas repainted? This should be warranty covered, right.
  • hubrex2hubrex2 Member Posts: 24
    I have about 2800 miles on my 2K SD. It's a SC with the shortbox. 5.4l/4.10ls/5speed, tow/camper package. So far, I am very pleased with the power--it tows the 5000+ lbs of trailer and racecar very well--the fuel mileage (averaging over 17mpg), and build quality. I am not as pleased with the unloaded ride. I have posted this problem earlier, and am wondering if anyone with a similar set-ups has had similar experiences. The problem is one of moderate to severe vibration on concrete pavement at freeway speeds. It feels like an out-of-balance tire, but that has been checked twice and appears to not be the source of the vibration. When encountering small to medium bumps, it feels skittish, which leads me to think perhaps it is suspension/shock absorber related. When towing a trailer last weekend, it was even more pronounced. The gearshift, mirrors, armrest, and even the dashboard were visibly shaking. Any thoughts? The dealer can't find anything, and insists that this combination--short wheelbase 2wd--simply rides this way unloaded when on uneven pavement. I can't believe it's normal. Even driving 50 miles at freeway speeds is fatiguing and genuinely unpleasant because it feels like you're traveling on washboard roads.
  • bessbess Member Posts: 972
    Is the vibration at a faster frequency than tire rotation? If so, maybe the driveshaft needs to be re-balanced, or something clutch/tranny related?
    I'm just guessing.. I've never heard of anyone else with this type of issue.
This discussion has been closed.

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