DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB

q7000 · February 2003

Just got a new 2003 QC 4x4 SLT with 4.7 this weekend. I'm loving it so far. It got it a little below invoice plus an $2,500 rebate from Dodge.

Anyone have any experience removing the "4x4" stickers from the side of the truck. They look like they wouldn't be to hard to peel off, but I'm wondering if there are any tricks.

dodgetrukn · February 2003

I removed all my stickers from my '01 Quad. I used a hairdryer, some Goo-Gone, some clean rags, and patience. You will need to wax those areas after the stickers are removed. I waxed once or twice depending on the areas. A good sunshine will certainly show off the areas that need re-attention to re-waxing. Heated up each corner of each sticker and slowly pulled them off. The goo-gone product worked real well removing the adhesive.
http://www.millervision.com/'01TRUCK.html Ger.

gtownguy · February 2003

Hello all, I 've been reading this from time to time and discussion seems to have dropped a bit. Hope everyone is having great luck with there QC.
I was interested in getting front tow hooks. Is this a possiblity?. I would appreciate any info and also where to purchase.
Thanks,
Tom.

bookitty · February 2003

Tom, if you have a "bull" or brush guard, sometimes they have a place to mount tow hooks. Other than that, I believe that the frame must be drilled to accept the hooks. The hooks are available from many automotive accessory stores. I got mine from Harbor Freight.

Bookitty

dustyk · February 2003

Tow hooks appear to mount very easily. There are two square cut-outs at the lower edge of the front fascia (front bumper cover). If you look you will see that these are position so that a tow hook can mount through them and onto the frame.

Mopar does make a tow hook that will fit perfectly.

Best regards,
Dusty

bpeebles · February 2003

http://www.ayrow.com/towhooks.html

gtownguy · February 2003

Hey Guys thanks alot for the info. I had seen the arrow pictures before but did not want to get into fabrication of a part. My dealer says they do not make a front tow hook for these trucks. My searches pull up the same. They talk of a front hook (or picture anyways) but in the text, it always states for the tow receiver (single hook).
Dustyk- do you know what part# I need and have you done this? Is it possible Dogde doesn't want hooks here? I starting to think these holes are only there for front accessory mounting, (brush bars etc.). I cannot find any Dakotas or Durangos with front hooks like other brands of trucks.
Thanks again,
Tom.

dustyk · February 2003

Tom,

Go to the Dodge website, select Dakota (http://www.dodge.com/dakota/index.html?context=trucks&type=d- akotaImg)

*In the left box, select "Owners"

*In the right box, select "Vehicle Accessories"

*You will get the Acccessories screen. Type in the vehicle-type description and your zip code.

*Select "Submit"

*Select "Carriers & Cargo Hauling"

*Select "Tow Hooks & Straps"

You will see displayed Mopar part #82202583. The part description says "receiver only," but look at the picture included on the screen. Is that not the front of a Dakota?

My dealer had a Dakota on the lot with these installed, so I'm pretty sure that the catalog description is wrong.

Good luck,
Dusty

kjcdr1 · February 2003

It has been a while since I have posted, but now have a question for the experts in this group. My 2001 quad 4x4 with 4.7 auto is now coming up on 2 years of age and 12,000 miles. I have been following Schedule B for oil changes because I occasionally drive in temperatures under 32F and also have quite a few short trips of under 10 miles.
  I have not towed, driven in dusty conditions, had a lot of stop & go driving, or driven at high speeds in very hot weather.
  I do not understand the reason or need for the Schedule B recommendation that axle fluid be changed every 12K. Under schedule A a change of axle fluid is not recommended even once through 120,000 miles.
  It seems to me that something is missing under Schedule A, or changes every 12K under Schedule B is gross overkill.
  I would appreciate input from those with experience regarding this particular maintenance item. Should I have it done as scheduled at 12K or is there a longer period between changes that would still keep my Dakota in good running condition?
  I thank you for your help on this one.
        Ken

bpeebles · February 2003

(kjcdr1) The schedule 'B' takes into account assuming that you are doing ALL of the items in the list for severe. It is the TOWING and EXTREME TEMPERATURES that add the axle-lube changes to the list.

In any case...

I have replaced the fluids in my xfer case, both axles and the xmission with REDLINE synthetic fluids. Not only do I NEVER have to change the fluids again... I get about 2MPG better than before the change. (went from around 18MPG to over 20MPG on the highway.)

Here are a couple of links to REDLINE if you are interested.
http://keith.mcbride.org//gearoil.html
http://www.redlineoil.com/whyredline.htm

decentman4you · February 2003

I just read through a year's worth of post's & got some great information on my QC, and some really good links as well, thanks.

  My current vehicles
1984 Honda Trail CT110 8,120 miles

1987 Nissan Kingcab 4cyl 8plugs 2.4L 5-sp 272,990 miles rough avg 20.0 mpg

2001 qc 4x4 4.7 auto, limited-slip, AWD 3.55, T&H pkg, every option except sliding window & leather. The cd in-dash 'only goof' I made when I ordered it - got the radio in dash w/changer controls an Never got the cd-changer. 16,854 miles

1999 Novara Aspen AL 18 speed 23 inch frame bicycle 26 inch tires

But >

1523 of 1686 DISK -vs- DRUM by bpeebles Oct 08, 2002 you said
full time 4 wheel drive (actually has LESS traction)
  My question is: Why is that ?
According to you, I thimks that my DC QC AWD auto has great traction.

Driving my 2001 qc 4x4 4.7 auto, limited-slip, AWD 3.55, 16,854 miles
QC is up to date, though no aftermarket improvement's added yet!
Always LOF @ Dealer
  Should I use a different Engine oil? a different air filter? or anything else?

Fuel mileage's -- How can I, improve on these mileages?
15.44 mpg actual, up to Dallas & back to Houston 17.64 mpg actual
12.95 mpg actual, around town.
16.36 mpg actual, up to Dallas & back to Houston 17.58 mpg actual
gee maybe I should always 'only' drive to houston...
13.50 mpg actual, around town.
11.92 mpg actual, around town.
11.42 mpg actual, around town last tank of Fuel 87 Octane actually always use 87 octane

bpeebles · February 2003

(decentman4you) I have explained the physics behind this several times over the years. Since you asked... I will try to explain again for your benefit.

BTW..Your Dak does not have AWD.... you have fulltime 4X4 There are many different 4-wheel-drive designs and the the "fulltime" open differential system on the Dakota is the cheapest to make and perhaps the worst for traction.

Dont confuse the Dakota "fulltime" with someting like the Subaru system tht actually sends the engine power to the wheels with MOST traction.

I am assuming you UNDERSTAND the operation of an 'open differential' and a 'Limited-slip differential'

Here is the explanation:

On the Dakota, "full time 4X4" is simply an open differential in the xfer case. This, coupled with the open differential on each of the axles means there are 3 open differentials in the driveline. this means that ANY ONE of the 4 wheels can loose traction and you are stuck. It is more likely that 1 of the 4 wheels will be on a slippery surface than 1 of 2 wheels .. thus fulltime 4X4 has a HIGHER possibility to loose traction and get stuck than 2 wheel drive!

NOW, LETS CONSIDER ADDING LSD TO THE REAR END WITH FULLTIME 4X4: Since the LSD forces the rear wheels to split the torque equally, BOTH rear wheels have to slip together. It is more likely that one of the 2 front wheels will have less traction than BOTH rear wheels together. Thus, all of the engine torque is fed to ONE front wheel. SURPRISE... you have 1 wheel drive!!

I am not making this stuff up. I have continuously owned at least one 4WD vehicle for over 20 years. I have driven in many Vermont winters and I am speaking from experience as well as my from technical background.

I have been saying in these forums for years that the fulltime 4X4 is a BIIGGG waste of money. You pay more money, get less real traction, get terrible MPG and wear out tires and driveline components much quicker.

Your MPG measurements are a reflection of the added wear-n-tear on your driveline and tires that the fulltime 4X4 is giving you.

laborer118 · February 2003

I have a chance to purchase a still brand new 2002 Dakota Quad, with all the bells and whistles. My truck now is a standard 99 ranger, with lots of payoff left. so as you know they giving next to nothing for the ranger. purchasing this vehicle would really stretch my payment limits. i like the truck alot. my dad has a 2002 ext cab. and it is great. I need a larger vehicle because my kids are 4 now and can't ride in my truck being it only has the bench seat. is the dakota to good to pass up if I were getting it for 20 grand?

dustyk · February 2003

It depends on the 2002 Dakota Quad you're considering? If it is well equiped and has low miles, probably. I bought my 2003 Club Cab Sport Plus with 4.7 V8, auto trans, full power equipment, FM-CD-Casette, front/rear sway bars, 6010 GVW that listed for $23,476 for $19,400.

You need to find out what the same Dakota Quad would cost you new and see what the difference.

Best of Luck,
Dusty

ferous · February 2003

I don't think $20K is a good deal for a new 2002 that is still on the lot. I agree with Dusty, go price a new one. With all the incentive packages that are out there today, I have seen 2003 for $20K. It makes me kind of sick, because when I ordered my in 1/2000, you couldn't touch these trucks for what they are going for now. I know it was the new model and all. I couldn't wait, my old car was just limping along.

decentman4you · March 2003

Mr. Peebles says: BTW-Your Dak does not have AWD, you have fulltime 4X4 .
ok, why is it then that, I cant ever 'burn-rubber' taking-off, in the wet or especially in the Dry? If I only have " 1 " wheel drive???
This QC has Great traction me thinks, & LSD.

I ask? - Is there anything that I can do with this Truck to improve the mileage around town?
other than the obvious like staying off the gas as much as possible! when driving this truck; also when I do drive this truck I always go the posted speed-limit wherever I go traveling, not ever more than 5 Mph above the posted limit.

I do - UNDERSTAND the operation of an 'open differential' and a 'Limited-slip differential' , and thanks for your detailed explanation.

Does Dodge make a True AWD Drivetrain?, like maybe in the Jeep line of product's, or simply not anywhere?

Gee it says AWD on the dash

bpeebles · March 2003

Does Dodge make a True AWD Drivetrain?, like maybe in the Jeep line of product's, or simply not anywhere?

YES! The xfer case and front/rear differentials of the JEEP are one of the best systems in the WORLD. With that system one could have only ONE tire on the ground... and still have full engine torque available to that single wheel! This JEEP system is propriatory to JEEP only.

You mention not being able to "burn rubber" in the wet and especially in the dry.... I am sorry but that is not a very good way to test for REAL TRACTION. My discussion is about REAL TRACTION.

Imagine having ALL FOUR TIRES ON ICE (a frozen lake) and then tie a rope from your hitch to a large tree on shore.... Add a gauge to the rope to measure amount of 'pull' being applied to the rope.... now ease on the throttle until you get tire spin (loss of traction) I GAURANTEE YOU THAT YOUR 'so called' AWD WILL SPIN ONE WHEEL. (most likely a front one if you have LSD.)

Now hook up my Dakota with REAL 4WD and LSD rear end.... I will get TRIPPLE the pull power because My dak will spin 3 wheels at the 'loss of traction' point.... Heck, even in 2WD, I will spin 2 wheels when traction is lost. PLUS, I can put my Dak into 2WD and get 20MPG 8-)

The JEEP system would win this contest of being able to 'pull' on the tree the hardest. ALL 4 WHEELS WOULD HAVE TO SPIN TO LOSE TRACTION.

I am not 'guessing' at this. I have owned many 4 wheel drive systems over the years and have been severly STUCK with the simple 'center open differential' system. I have also worn out drivetrain parts, tires and burnt up lots of fuel with such a system.
In fact, I felt this type of system is DANGEROUS because while driving on slippery roads.. is the FRONT wheels that will loose traction around a corner and start the vehicle sliding sideways.
This system is sold to folks that dont know any better and THINK they have a better 4WD system. (just because it costs more)

rod30 · March 2003

I have a 01 QC just out of warranty. 01 only had 3/36000. front seat drivers side on the side just above the power seat controls has ripped. contacted dealer said they couldn't do anything about it. when I told them it looked like it was done before warr. expired. they said tough luck. watch your leather seats guys and gals.

iowabigguy · March 2003

If you read the warranty I believe the leather seats are just covered for the first 12 months/12,000 miles! Rick

traumagas · March 2003

Yes ,
My seat did the same thing but if you look its not leather it cheap plastic. Put black duct tape on (BUDDY)
Also My rear end has been repaired and replaced so many times It is getting old it goes about 10-12k then it start whinning untill I hear cruntching when I make a left hand or right hand turn. They build it again, I told them I wanted A complete new housing and gears they said they cant do that so they just fix it every 10-12 k the truck is going on 50k miles 01 4.7 4x4 limited slip with the high gear ? 3.73 forget the number there were two choices in 01
Does anyone know when the new Durango is coming out will it have the new 5.7 hemi ?

henne · March 2003

I had the same rearend issues you are having. After 6 times I told them its time for a buyback and they didnt even question me. After about two days of talking buyback numbers I had my new truck on order. Of course I had closer to 20k miles on my truck.

Good luck,

Robert

traumagas · March 2003

Well The above post tells it all The rear end is doing it again
what options do I have? the warranty is still in effect the last time they fixed it they said it had a year from the date they fixed it now I am past 36k but still within the year and 12000 additional miles If you guys have any ideas please share it with me I love this truck this is the only thing that has been a issue Traumagas@aol.com

henne · March 2003

Tell the dealer you need the D/C rep and its time to buyback

iowabigguy · March 2003

I installed a set of Edelbrock IAS Shock Absorbers on my Quad last weekend! What a difference they made in ride and handling. The old shocks were still OK but I needed to do something to my Quad to take my mind off of those tempting rebates on New Quads. I looked at the 2003 Quads but was disappointed at the continuing erosion of features. One of my favorites is the instantaneous MPG reading on my 2000 Quad. Now there is only an average reading to be had. I think the interiors are also less comfortable. Where the 2000 has a large and useful glove compartment the 2003 is small and odd shaped. On the plus side the Quads now have 4 wheel disc brakes although I haven't been unhappy with the performance of my front disc/rear drum setup. I do have the optional 4 wheel anti-lock brakes which may have some impact on my Quad's brake performance. I also don't understand why some colors are only available on the SLT. I'd like a Sport in the Light Almond color. I also looked at the Durango but even with the $5500 in rebates they are still more expensive than a comparable equipped Quad and in My opinion less functional. The SXT 4 wheel drive Durango only comes with a single speed transfer case, you have to buy a SLT to get the 2 speed transfer case. I wonder if there will be any significant improvements in the 2004 since the 2005 gets the redesign to look more like a Ram. Have you noticed how much the Dodge passenger cars look like each other? I guess that is what is in store for us with the trucks. Well enough rambling, maybe this will generate a few posts! Rick

dataguru · March 2003

Hi Rick,

I can identify with your upgrade dilemma as I'm also comtemplating upgrading my 2001 QC 3.9L to a 2003 QC 4.7L. A few more negatives that I've discovered include a smaller mini overhead console, no upper windshield rubber moulding, black steel spare rim, no rear floor mats, lighter shade of window glass tint and inconsistent between vehicles, etc. For example, on some vehicles the rear side windows are darker than the rear windows. Also, I've noticed the Base price has gone up twice since Sep '03 along with the price of various options. However, on the plus side, I do like the improvement of 4-wheel disc brakes and the fact there are fewer defects on the 2003s thus far. Have you noticed these as well?

BTW, have you or anyone heard anymore information regarding the late availability of the 4.7L Power Tech HO V8 for Dakotas this year or for the final year (2004) of this current platform design?

dataguru

iowabigguy · March 2003

dataguru.
Apparently you have looked much more closely than me! I haven't noticed the additional items you pointed out. I have actually looked more closely at the new Ram Quad Cab. I can configure a 4.7 V8 and 5-speed 2wd Ram for just a little more than a comparable Dakota Quad Cab. The negative aspect of this is the Ram back seat has less leg room than the Dakota and a narrower door width. My 80+ year old parents have a hard enough time getting into the Dakota so I suspect the Ram Quad would prove even more difficult. I'm also not a minivan person so that is NOT an option.

I have looked over the specs on the 4.7 HO on the Jeep site and really wasn't impressed. The HP and torque both peak at higher rpms and to get those figures require premium fuel. I'd rather have a Hemi if I needed more HP. The Hemi in a Ram 4x4 is shown as getting 13 city/17 highway with an auto trans. Doesn't the 4x4 4.7 auto Dakota rate 14 city/18 highway? Pretty good considering the increased size and weight of the Ram. I could be REAL happy with a Hemi 5-speed Dakota 2wd Quad Cab. With the Hemi's torque you could probably putt along and get in excess of 20mpg. Then again with a heavy foot I also bet you could get into single digit mpg figures too. Well, I wonder what April will bring in the way of rebates??? Rick

dataguru · March 2003

Rick,

I agree with your comparison/assessment of the Ram 1500 QC and Dakota QC given the discussion parameters of weight, engine combo, and width of rear doors. Personally, I would prefer more power & torque to kick in at lower RPMs for towing purposes. Any thoughts of a Diesel Dakota? With the latest price increases for the Dakotas, I'm starting to believe it has hit a price point where it may affect sales. I'm still struggling whether to upgrade now or to wait for re-platforming in 2005.

Once the 5.7L Hemi (345HP) is available to replace the 5.9L (245/250HP) for Dakotas, I would hope the 4.7L HO Power Tech engine (265HP) would replace the current Next Generation 4.7L (230HP) and the 3.7L (215HP) to replace the current 3.9L Magnum V6. At least these would now provide a better range (215HP, 260HP, 345HP) of coverage for the Dakota powerplants.
Yes, lets hope the rebates gets better soon.

dataguru

decentman4you · April 2003

reply to 1693 of 1703 decentman4you by bpeebles Mar 06, 2003 (10:36 pm)
What kind of Dakota do you have?, versus the one that I bought?
How is it that you have "Real 4wd" and I don't ?
What should I have bought to get True 4-wd - according to you ?
And is there any way that I can change my Dakota to get true 4WD?, Like changing the differential's.. or...
Or no-way and that I am simply stuck with what I have bought?
I believe you and your descriptions of driving conditions, but I dont aggree with you in as far as my experince with this truck and driving in mostly rainy conditons here in Houston TX, that is I dont thinks its Dangerous !!!

bpeebles · April 2003

I have explained as best I can making the description as simple as possible without getting into the mechanical details of the various 4wd systems available.

I ordered my Dak from the factory with ultimate traction in mind. I am assuming that you did not.

Why does anyone need 4wd for driving in the RAIN?? I bet you have NEVER got stuck in your driveway because it was raining. Until you have driven on roads with a foot of snow on top of ice, you have NO CONCEPT of what 4WD is used for. Neither 4WD nor AWD is of ANY help above around 40 MPH and will, in fact, promote sliding off of the road.

If I put my Dak into 4WD in the rain, I would likely twist a front axle because it is LOCKED in 4WD. (It would feel as it it was "walking" around sharp corners.) True 4WD will not turn very well because of the wheels being locked together.

The bottom line is that AWD is NOT the same as 4WD.

From your description, it sounds as if all you need is a 2WD with LSD and some good rain tires.

rdg1 · April 2003

On the '03 Quad Cab, anyone experienced a water leak into the passenger compartment on the driver's side? Info would be appreciated! Dealer not having success in getting fixed.

bcarter3 · April 2003

I have an '01 Club Cab. I had a water leak on the passenger side of the cab. The water was running down the pillar and under the carpet. I did not find the source until I pulled down a corner of the headliner and found the windshield leaking at the top about six inches in from the corner. The headliner has a plastic/fiberglass liner and that channeled the water to the pillar. I sealed the windshield in the area of the leak and haven't had a problem since.

Dick

missedbass · April 2003

Noticed a nick in the drivers side wiper arm. found the wiper arm hitting the underside of the hood when I had the winshield wipers on. touched up the hood and the wiper arm before it started to rust. check your hoods and let me know if your truck has the same problem

rob129 · April 2003

just bought a new quad cab today $28,710.00 sticker price.$3000.00 rebate + $500.00 farm bureau rebate,total $3,500.00, not bad.4.7motor+5speed auto,any guess what type of mileage I will get? Also got 7yr.-70,000 extended warr. $1,200.00 from heritage ins. thru dodge dealership,was that a mistake? Any info will help !!!!!!!!!!! thanks, rob a. in illinois

dustyk · April 2003

Rob,

There's absolutely no reason why you shouldn't realize the fuel mileage of the EPA rating. However, your driving habits will likely dictate the type of fuel mileage you will actually achieve.

My 2003 4x2 Club Cab Sport with the 287 CID (4.7) and 545RFE 5-speed auto has been averaging 17.6 the last three tanks. This is around town with some short expressway driving. My to work commute is now 7 miles. I'm what would be considered a normally sedate driver.

I've hit almost 23 MPG over-the-road at a steady 65 MPH, and can always hit 20+ on the same trip hauling a 650 pound ATV. During this winter I had one tank that gave me 12.9 MPG, the lowest I've ever recorded. But my total average to-date is still 16.8.

Good Luck with the new Dakota.

Dusty

bpeebles · April 2003

(rob129) I concur with the wisdom of dustyk. You must be patient to achieve the MPG as advertised on the window-sticker. Following the appropriate break-in procedures will go a long why towards getting there.

My 4.7L V8 took at least 8,000 miles before it 'settled down' and stabilized. The close tolerances and design of the piston-rings takes some time to achieve the ultimate piston-cylinder sealing. This is when the best MPG (and power) will be available. This also is indicative of a well-designed engine that will provide long service life.

The advice of the owners-manual "Occasional bursts of full-throttle acceleration." means what it says. Following this with some period of decelleration also helps the break-in process.

After the 1st 1000 miles, on the highway, you can use full-throttle to go from 40MpH - 70MpH then decelerate to 65MpH. Do this every 30 minutes or so during a long trip.

dustyk · April 2003

Yes, Bpeebles is correct about the "close tolerances" of the 4.7. In fact, it is one of the tightest engines currently being manufactured in North America.

Chrysler has managed to reduce internal friction considerably with this new design (a design philosophy carried over into the new 5.7 Hemi). However, the initial tight tolerances computes to a longer break-in period and the 4.7 has definitely gained a reputation for it.

The 4.7 is an excellent performer that surprises many. Someone told me that a car magazine reported the 1/4 mile times between the 4.7 Dakota and the 5.9 R/T version, and the 4.7 was surprisingly very close. I also read an article a while back that after 10,000 miles on a 4.7 Dakota the 0-60 times went down by better than a second-and-a-half from new.

My daughter and son-in-law just bought a F150 with the 5.4 engine and it doesn't seem to be able to get by my Dakota (in all fairness, their F150 is a 4x4).

The problem with the 4.7 polyhead is that you will pay the price in fuel consumption by tapping that power. If you're at all aggresive in your driving habit, you will see the MPGs go down in a hurry with this engine.

Good luck with the new Dakota.

Dusty

jimt · April 2003

Haven't posted in a long time. I have an '01 Quad, 4x4, 4.7, auto, 3.92 rear limited slip, tire/handling pkg., hd service group, etc. Over 65,000 miles now! My only problem to date is the pinion shaft seal is leaking on differential. Anyone else have this problem? Is this an external seal which can be replaced with out rear dissasembly? Can the repair affect the "set-up" and develope noise? Any help will be appreciated. ( on mileage- I avg. 16 mpg with 20 absolute best!)

ravenone · April 2003

Bruce,

I found your reference in my owners manual ('03 Quad). You mentioned running it from 40 up to 70 MPH then backing off to 65. Does that come from the Shop Maunal for the Dak? Does that apply to auotmatics? My unit is a 5-speed 4X4.

Thanks for the information

Raven

dustyk · April 2003

I'm going to assume that when you say "shaft" seal at the differential, you are refering to the pinion seal.

Yes, the pinion seals on the Dakota are replaceable without complete disassembly of the differential and can be removed from outside the case.

However, there is a pinion preload specification that must be maintained. Chrysler refers to this as "pinion rotating torque." Basically, the amount of torque required to rotate the pinion shaft prior to disassembly must be maintained after the pinion seal has been replaced.

Removing the seal is generally not a problem since any destructive techniques may be employed. I've seen guys install a pinion seal without one, but I would strongly recommend the use of the correct pinion seal installation tool. Some auto parts stores will rent a seal installing tool for a few saturday hours at minimal cost. I've seen a fair amount of seal damaged upon installation without a seal tool. Some pinion seals can be a little pricey.

Another thing you'll need is a way to hold the companion flange when removing the companion flange and reinstalling and tightening the pinion nut. If you don't have access to the correct tools, you might have to fabricate something.

By all means, try to get a service manual before you attempt any repairs yourself, if so inclined.

Best of luck,
Dusty

dustyk · April 2003

I couldn't find anything in my 2003 Dakota Service Manual about break-in, so maybe its in the owners manual.

Regards,
Dusty

bcarter3 · April 2003

Jim, The pinion shaft seal can be changed without opening the differential. The Service Manual procedures (shortened) are:
    1. Mark and disconnect and support drive shaft.
    2. Remove brake drums and check and record torque required to turn pinion shaft.
    3. Mark and remove companion flange.
    4. Remove seal with pry bar or slide-hammer with screw.
    5. Install new seal.
    6. Reinstall companion flange as marked with NEW nut. Torque nut to 210 ft/lbs. DO NOT EXCEED.
    7. Check torque required to rotate pinion shaft. It should be the same as the original torque plus 5 lbs.
    8. Reconnect drive shaft as previously marked and reinstall brake drums.

    The Service Manual references several special tools. One tool for pulling companion flange, one for installing the seal and one to hold the companion flange while torqueing the nut. The torque wrenches are probably the most important.
Overtorqueing the companion flange nut will change the dimension of the collapsible spacer and that would affect the "set up" and probably lead to excessive wear and noise.
     I have not quoted the Service Manual for the sake of brevity. I would suggest if anyone is contemplating doing their own maintenance that they purchase the Service Manual. Service Manuals and Diagnostic Manuals are available online from "techauthority.com"

                 Good luck, Dick

jimt · April 2003

Thanks to Dick and Dusty for the info. on my pinion shaft seal leak. While I do perform most of my service and general repairs, I may leave this to a professional. The service manual sounds like a worthwhile investment either way. Thanks again. Jim

bpeebles · April 2003

(Ravenone) I did not get those specific instructions from the Dak manuals... it is my own wording of how any engine needs BOTH acceleration and decelleration to "seat the rings" effectivly.... then a "cooldown period" to allow time for any localized heat to dissapate away from the cylinders.

I was referring to manual tranny.... but an automatic may be similar. As long as the engine sees BOTH acceleration and decelleration... then a period of cooldown (cruzing at constant speed)

If an engine is "babied", then there may not be suffecient pressure to force the rings against the cylinder-walls to burnish them. One may end up with an oil-burning engine that takes a LOONG time to break in.

appraiser · April 2003

I have a 2000 QC 4.7 5-speed with 75,000 miles. Love the truck! A couple of months ago I took it in for a thorough checkup. Since that time, the truck "whines" when I turn it hard left or right. It whines loudly after I've been driving for an hour or two. And it's worst when I've been driving a couple of hours with the a/c on. The repairman says I need a new power steering pump ($320 plus labor--apparently NAPA and some other aftermarket guys don't carry one of these pumps). Has this happened to anyone else?

bpeebles · April 2003

(appraiser) How many times have you replaced your power steering fluid in 75,000 miles? What kind (brand and specs) did you use?

Im just wondering if you are still using the factory-fill.... or have been maintaining the vehicle by replacing the fluids. When you took it in for that service... Did they use the proper-spec. fluids?

$20 worth of fluid is cheep insurance against a $300 powersteering pump.

The same goes for all of the following 'fluid users';
Brake fluid ("brake juice" as my daughter calls it;-)
clutch fluid
front axle
xfer case
rear axle
cooling system
xmission

ravenone · April 2003

Bruce,

Thanks for your insight. It makes very good sense to me.

All the best,

Raven

dustyk · April 2003

In the past I've noticed that a number of F150s exhibit a similar whine and a friend of mine in the auto repair business told me that some model variants of the Saginaw steering pumps that Dodge and Ford use are prone to this, just like in the native GM trucks from which they were born.

My daughter and son-in-law just purchased a 2001 Supewrcrew that's on it's third power steering pump, all with the same symptom. Ford now says that "they all make noise" and refuse to install another one. Oddly, the original one didn't make noise for some 4500 miles.

I think I heard of one other Dakota (or Durango?)owner that complained of the same problem, and after replacing the pump the symptom went away.

Bests,
Dusty

traumagas · May 2003

Hello all
   was going to buy a 2500 ram quad but after much thought I am going to buy a durango 2004 5.7 when they arrive and keep my quad 4,7 slt plus 4x4 with the kitchen sink.
   My question is what the best shocks and tires and front rotors . Truck has the fact tire 265 goodyears
   Also anyone know anything about the durango 2004 with the 5.7 ? good and bad ?

bpeebles · May 2003

(traumagas) Folks have had good results with...

Shock Absorbers.... "Edelbrock IAS Performer" (The Monotube ones are the best) Here are 3 sources for them:
http://www.shockwarehouse.com/
http://www.shox.com/
http://www.truckaddons.com/Catalog/subpages/EdelbrockSuspension.a- sp

Front brake rotors "Powerslot" Rotors with "Raybestos Quietstop" pads (these pads are CERAMIC-based thus do not make as much black dust on your frount wheels.)

For most of the above items, you may be able to get in on a "group buy" to save some $$. I got my rotors from a "group buy".

kandor · May 2003

Which would be better for driving on a sandy beach?

DODGE DAKOTA QUAD CAB

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