Ford Ranger III

david6 · January 2001

David

I just finally got my 2001 Ranger 2wd 4.0L x-cab. My question is this: you carry 600 lbs of sand in the bed for winter driving, while all I've put in there are (2) 70lb bags. Is 600 lbs really necessary? We got a big snowfall just after I picked the truck up last week, and the Limited Slip worked pretty well, but I was still sliding around a good bit, so I guess I may need more!

As it is I appear to be getting around 15 mpg on the little driving I've done - I knew that the combination of the 4.0L and my heavy foot would hurt me there, but I hate to weigh it down TOO much with sand. So, I should get more, huh?

David (also)

davidb72 · January 2001

Well, you may be slightly better off due to the fact that you have the limited slip rear axle. Mine has the standard open rear differential and I really need to keep those rear tires pushed hard against the ground or one will start to slip and then it's all over! My truck came from the factory with 235/60/15 tires and while they look great in the summer they are worthless in any rain or snow. I change over to 205/75/14 BF Goodrich Trail T/A's in late November and leave them on until late February. I got a set of steel wheels from the junkyard for like $50.00. This has been my system for the past 4 winters and it works pretty good. I'll tell you what though, I think my next vehicle, whether it's another Ranger or full size it'll probably be 4WD.

davidb72 · January 2001

One other thing, I work at a Masonry Supply Company so I get all the free sand I want!!!

quadtruck · January 2001

Sometimes all the light problems are, is that the light is not set right in the socket. Take the light out and put it back a couple of times and make sure it is being seating in the socket tight.

jurp11 · January 2001

I was into buying a Ford Ranger 2001 Extended cab with just the 2 wheel drive and I was wondering what tha gas mileage would be. Every site ive checked has different number I would like to hear personal experiences. Also does anyone have any good sites to look at some used Rangers to buy. I only have $14,000 and would like a fairly new extended cab Ford Ranger, will this be possible????

davidb72 · January 2001

My gas mileage gas been around 18-22 MPG for the past five years. My truck is a 1995 Supercab, 4cyl, 5spd. On long trips with the cruise I can sometimes hit 22, but most of the time I'm around 18 MPG.

eharri3 · January 2001

I mostly average a consistent 20-25 mostly highway, usually sinks to around 18 in the city. Pretty good mileage, but I get the impression the smaller V6 wouldn't drag it down too much and I'd have better pickup.
ed

eharri3 · January 2001

the highway driving is done at 80-85 with occasional 5th-4th downshifts and and the stop and go city driving involves plenty of jack-rabbit starts. I drive hard, maintain meticulously. 66 K so far without a single mechanical hiccup.

cmsummary · January 2001

I own a 94 Ranger, Supercab 5 speed. Since I've owned this truck I had to use 89 octane or the truck will ping too loud. Recently the pinging has gotten louder and it won't go away. I've even tried using premiun gas.
My truck has 165,000 miles, lucky me with no major problems. My engine is a 2.3 inline 4.
Do they need to have the valves adjusted at all ? I can not find any information regarding this.
Has anybody experience this problem?

bartlinden · January 2001

I have a 2000 Supercab w/3.0 V6 auto and consistently average about 18.5 MPG combined. Highway mileage is about 21, city about 17. As far as getting a fairly new Supercab for $14,000 - the odds are probably pretty good. At least where I live I frequently see '98 models go for that amount or even a little less. Occasionally a '99 will show up for about that. Good luck and hope this helps...

david6 · January 2001

I now have 1400 miles on my 2001 x-cab 4.0L 2wd. In the city I have been getting roughly 16 mpg, and on the highway (60-70 mph, open bed) I have been getting roughly 20 mpg. These are pretty accurate numbers, since my tanks of gas have been exclusively either city or highway, almost no mixing. I have been running with 140# of sand and probably another 60# of tools or gear at all times.
I have a somewhat heavy foot, but I think these numbers are going to be pretty representative of what other Rangers equipped the same will get. I'm hoping that the numbers will improve somewhat as the engine breaks in and I put a cap on it.

david6 · January 2001

As I posted above, I have a 2001 4.0L 2wd, with Limited Slip. I passed up buying a 4x4 when I was able to get this set up, but I wasn't sure how well I'd do in bad conditions. Well, I drove through packed snow about 2 or 3 inches thick, extremely slippery, in the Allegheny Mountains this weekend for an hour, up and down hills on very curvy roads. I'm happy to say that I had great traction, with only a little fishtailing easily controlled, and I got through some pretty dangerous situations. It was especially satisfying to pass up two Jeep Cherokees, even though they were probably just being more cautious than me.

scape2 · January 2001

Unfortunately Ford does not put the best tires on their Rangers. Dump the Firejunkers and get a good set of tires! This will help considerably in traction and ride..

david6 · February 2001

Well, Vince, I've read your thoughts and others on the tires, and I guess they may not be the best, but . . .

It's a 2wd, so they are the Wilderness HT type, all-season, so not the same design, etc., as the A/T with tread seperation feature. If I'd have gotten a 4x4 with the A/T's I'd probably have gotten rid of them immediately.

The HT's are performing well, in fact. Maybe it's just because they have new tread. But, even with new tread, when you have all-season tires on packed snow, there will be SOME loss of traction, especially in the conditions I was in.

I'm not going to waste money replacing something that is working fine. Your arguements for getting rid of A/T's make some sense, but these HT's don't need to go. (I should say, though, that when they wear out I won't automatically replace them with the same thing) Next winter, when there is less tread on them, I may buy snow tires, but I'm not even sure I need to do that.

david6 · February 2001

(In response to Vince's comment in the Tacoma v. Ranger room . . .)

Yup, it moves pretty well.

My exact setup is: '01 Ranger 2wd extended cab 4.0L SOHC automatic with Limited Slip. Interestingly, in this configuration Ford expects me to haul extra weight, and gave me the 1600# payload package, so I have a somewhat bouncy ride and a higher ride height. Neither are quite to the level of the 4x4, but are just right for my off-road needs.

I haven't gone to a drag strip yet, but the package definitely moves very fast and has lots of power! It's no Light'ning, but coming from a sporty Integra I'm very satisfied and my wife hates it (I continue to drive *just slightly* in excess of speed limits and beating others from stop lights)! Not to mention how great it handles muddy, rutted roads through new developments (up and down hills, through drainage ditches, to Grandmother's new building site we go). Very happy I avoided the 4x4.

In fact, I had to call a dealer I wasn't working with to confirm that I could get this package with the LSD option! I had an order on a 4x4, since Ford wasn't accepting the order for the setup above, then the next day I checked Edmunds (considering adding an option to the 4x4) and found that the LSD was now listed as an option on the 2wd! My salesman didn't want to lose the sale on the higher priced 4x4 and claimed ignorance of the new situation, so I had to prove it to him by going to the salesman who will probably get my business next time.

It was all worth it. I love my set-up, very versatile and speedy, very nice fit-and-finish, and at a great price. Just a couple of disconcerting noises from the engine and the driver's side door which I think I can get resolved.

jjarosik · February 2001

My '99 extended cab, 3.0, auto with 15,000 has suddenly started "bumping", sometimes hard, just when coming to a stop. If it doesn't bump at the stop, it will do so when the brake is released and a start-up roll begins. The dealer uses comforting words like "normal" and "not a problem", but I don't believe it is normal and feel it could be a problem later on. For now it is only an annoyance. One mechanic said that the extended cab has a drive shaft that is "too long", but I checked mine and it does not stick out of the back or anything. Anybody have a similar condition?

wilcox · February 2001

I'm adapting well to my Ranger Flairside. The mpg took a little getting used to because our V6 Camry and V6 Contour deliver much better...It is not "pinging" as others have complained though.

Can anyone recommend a good storage compartment for the flair sided bed? Are there some nice "designer" side opening compartments that compliment the curves? Delta dosen't seem to have what I want.

Accord99 · February 2001

I have my eyes on a V6 1996 B4000 or a similar Ranger. I have done some "Reliability" research on the Carpoint website. According to Carpoint, 1996 Mazda does not have any
reliability problems. However, when I look at the sister 1996 Ranger it shows this
car has potential problems: "Occasional problems on this vehicle are failures of the
Canister Purge Valve/Sensor Assembly and the Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor."
Should I consider the same problem for the Mazda?

If they're the same truck why does Carpoint rate Mazda higher on Reliability?

Please help.
Accord99

don98 · February 2001

Having same problem as #317, B3000 1999, extended cab, V-6, 22,000 Miles. Dealer has tightened everything in rear suspension, checked drive shaft, Mazda rep drove truck and advised to inspect and check rear brakes. Brakes were checked said everything "normal", bump is still there when stopping, back to the dealer. If you come across a fix please advise.

wilcox · February 2001

Can anyone recommend a good storage compartment for the flair sided bed? Are there some nice "designer" side opening compartments that compliment the curves? Delta dosen't seem to have what I want.

scape2 · February 2001

Your best bet is to visit your nearest 4x4 shop that may specialize in truck parts. There are hundreds of manufacturers for boxes for truck beds. Remember though you will be making your step on the side of the truck useless, unless you get a box that fits inside the bed of course.
I also have a stepside Ranger and get favorable comments from strangers. I have a 1998 XLT 4x4 SC in light blue. I have nerf bars, bug sheild, and a Lund grill insert on my truck. I have also put a K&N aircharger kit on, have a chip and P265x75R16 all terrains. Great little truck.
Good luck!

hciaffa · February 2001

The problem that you are mentioning, is pretty common . Actually there are two noted problems with the drive shaft. One problem is that when starting off you get a ping or a clang sound, for this there is a service bulletin called drive line ping, for me they replaced the drive shaft on my 98 Ranger with extended cab then shortly after it was replaced the the shaft started to make a shuttering feeling when coming to a stop and also when starting off from a stop. The cause for this is the drive shaft has an extension because of the extended cab and the extension flange can be faulty and it should be replaced or in some cased all it needs it to be taken apart and greased. I also believe there is a TSB for this also. Go back to the dealer and mention the Technical Service Bulletins. Also try Alldata.com they offer a site listing the TSB's for a given vehicle. After both jobs were done I've had no problems. Hope this helps. If the dealer dosen't help I can get my service receipts and get you the proper info. e-mail me at hciaffaglione@canberra.com

jjarosik · February 2001

I called it a "bump" originally, but I think the term "shudder" describes it better. Anyway, tomorrow, 2-6-01, she goes in for a new drive shaft. The dealer did not mention a TSB, but after some face to face discussion I learned that the problem is likely to be in the yolk (basically the shaft support bearing behind the trans). With the longer shaft (extended cab) the loads are too great for it to last long. I'm told there is a replacement yolk that has nickel plated bearing surfaces and is also packed with some sort of kryptonite impregnated synthetic grease that holds up better. The yolk is not available by itself, so I get the whole shaft assembly. It the problem goes away, I won't know if it is the yolk or the shaft (or u-joints, for that matter). I've learned that some extended cab makers actually use a two piece shaft with an additional yolk in the middle to fix this problem. This sounds like a fairly fundamental problem for all those extended cab Rangers to be out there living with. I'll let you know the results of my effort and whether we should all move our 401K money into kryptonite futures.

albuterol · February 2001

My '99 regular cab auto 4x4 had the "bump" too -- felt like someone was bumping me from behind. Took it into a dealer (while still under warranty fortunately), and he seemed to know exactly what it was -- the slip yoke. Anyway, it cost me nothing, but the price they showed on the receipt was $25, so I'm hoping if it happens again (knock on wood), it'll be cheap to fix.

hciaffa · February 2001

The slip yoke and extension flange that I mention in my post #323, I believe are the same.

jjarosik · February 2001

Holy cow. Did I say "yolk"? That's hen-fruit, isn't it? Anyway, the new drive shaft assembly went in yesterday and I ran the heck out of it last nite. I couldn't get it to bump anymore. Fixed!! The bill read $0 so I have no clue what it will cost after my 36 months are up. Thanks for all of your comments.

don98 · February 2001

REF;327 Sounds great!! I finally got my dealer and Mazda rep. covinced to change the drive shaft on my 99 B300 ext cab. it took 3 times taking the truck in. it has 23000 mi. the bump started about the same time yours did. However they still say it is normal???? Hope I have the same luck. I dont think the dealer is going to do anything else?? Will tell all when parts come in. PS: drive shaft costs 600.00.

zigster38 · February 2001

Anyone test driven the new fours yet? I see on carsdirect.com that the old 4's are now "discontinued..."

z

rm13 · February 2001

I got in my '97 4cyl, 5spd 2wd yesterday and it felt like the wheels were chocked really, really well. The e-brake pedal releases and depresses normally, but obviously the brake is locked on. Anybody else?

joek10 · February 2001

The anti theft system on my 3 month old 2001 Ranger intermittently fails to unlock and engine will not crank. Have called Ford 800 number and they gave me several ways to reset computer. None worked, truck disabled for up to 10 hours. All other electronic systems, other than ignition, operate. Also have remote entry system. Reps at Ford customer service told me they receive many calls with same problem.
Does anyone know how to solve this problem?

jjarosik · February 2001

Never had that problem on the Ranger, but more than one other time the problem you describe was a small piece of debris wedged between the shoe and drum. It acted just like the ebrake was on. Broom the area below or lay newspaper and pull the wheels off. See if anything falls out. It sounds too new to have rusty cable problems, but check them for damage and kinks, etc. that may be pulling the brake without driver input.

rm13 · February 2001

Thanks. I was going to check that wheel today but I woke up with the flu. I'll let you know when I get a chance.

pocahontas · February 2001

Ford Ranger problems discussion on this board. If you're having problem with your Ranger, or have insight for those with problem, please visit this new discussion.

It's also linked to the top of this discussion, right underneath the title. Thanks for your participation. ;-)

Pocahontas
Host
Pickups Message Board

saari · February 2001

Hello ranger fans! I Have a 2001 xlt 4x4 ,4.0 , auto 5 speed with 4.10 axel, and 16 inch tires. How long is the break-in period? I`ve got 1300 miles. What should I be getting for mileage? So far , around town is 14.5 and hwy 18.5. Thats 65mph with cruise and bed cover.

danny25 · February 2001

The break-in period is usually just 1000 miles so you should be fine now.

scape2 · February 2001

3,000 miles?? Also, since you have the 4x4 you want to engage your 4x4 at least once a month and run it for a bit also. Enjoy that new SOHC 4.0!!

pawnie · February 2001

I purchased a used 91 standard ranger 3 years ago. It has 83,000+ miles on it. Since owning I have replaced the radiator, sensors, water pump and timing belt within the last year. I also installed a AM/FM cassette, sliding rear window and tannou cover. The check engine light came on and off a couple of times today. According to the manual, the problem self corrects itself it the check engine light goes off. This scares me because the cost of repairs have now exceeded the price I paid for the truck. Albeit, the truck is strong and rides well. I don't want to sink any more serious money in this truck. I can't find any information on forums such as this for rangers around this time frame. I'd appreciate it if anyone can give advice on the 91 ranger. I am seriously considering selling but I will keep if it is fairly reliable.

danny25 · February 2001

I've heard it's pretty standard to wait until 1000 miles before you push your engine hard, and go over 4000 rpm. The engine doesn't get the best gas milage until after a few thousand miles more, which some people also refer to as the break in period.

scape2 · February 2001

please take into consideration you bought a "used" vehicle. Do you know how the truck was used prior to you purchasing it? The previous owner may have abused this truck or not maintained it properly. There are so many factors to consider when buying a used vehicle. The timing belt is a given with many vehicles after just 60K. Radiator could have been from previous owner not changing radiator fluid every two years. This is a must, radiator fluid does get very dirty over time and looses its ability to protect against rust and corrosion. Water pump is also part of the radiator flush maintaince. Sensors? which ones? I would highly recommend you take the truck to a trusted mechanic who is qualified and has the diagnostic equipment to check your truck out.
Good luck!

hciaffa · February 2001

Snug Top Fiberglass tonneau cover for sale. Its black in color but it is paintable. It's lockable and has an excellant seal. In excellant condition. Came with the Ranger when I bought it used. Stored in garage except fot this winter. Asking $300.00 for it ($695.00 when new. Will fit new stlye, style side short beds ( I believe 96 and up) including Mazda's.

Location:Central Connecticut
Email:hciaffaglione@caanberra.com
Phone#: 1-203-639-2406

hciaffa · February 2001

hciaffaglione@canberra.com

dellewis · February 2001

I am thinking of buying a 2001 XLT 2wd W/4.0 engine 5sp auto, what is the gas mileage most of you are getting with the same setup, any info would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks

jackka · February 2001

Does anyone know if Ford will be offering a manual transmission with the 4 Litre V-6. Months ago I read on "blueoval.com" that they had some design problems. When I ask a dealer, they don't know anything.

scape2 · February 2001

is coming. I also read that Ford was having problems at the same site you did. However another person in another chat on the net says the option is available now.

frey4 · February 2001

You can expect to get about 18 to 19 highway driving (with extended cab 4X4, 5 spd auto) and about 12 to 14 city. This truck will not crack the 20's; it actually is thirstier than my 99 4.0 pushrod motor. Also, high ground height and 16" wheels will consume a little more fuel (drag and friction) than the 15" package. I know a number of these truck that are being used in a fleet (a glass service); overal mileage, according the owner of these trucks (they use five) has been disappointing. However, what can one expect with a 200+ HP motor: thermodynamically you can't get something for nothing. I'd like to see this truck with the 3.0 v6 Duratec being offered in the SUV; that engine could allow us to get low to maybe mid 20's (a MUCH more effient design). My only complaint with the 2001 is the 5 sp. auto is a little too busy for me; the shift points are dialed in very well. I'd advise you to go with the manual. Also, Ford has traded the "knock knock" sound of the pushrod motor for a "whir-clickity-click" in the new OHC 4.0. Both of these motors are too noisy. But, hell, it's a truck. Good luck.

kit1404 · February 2001

You are still buying a very old engine design - the original 2.9 V-6 was a good engine. Came from Europe in the late-80's and a good, strong engine - probably meant to be high-revving. Ford thought it strong enough to put in light-duty trucks and also create more torque - late 80's Rangers and Bronco II's. And, for the most part, it was successful. Now, from the early 90's on we have new iterations of the same old and I dare to say, tired old engine. Even the overhead cam-design is still the same old engine - improved, but the gas mileage is not there. Yes - where is the Duratec V-6 from the Taurus and the recent Escape model? Surely, that would be an improvement. At least, the new small V-8 will most likely work it's way into the smaller trucks someday. Sorry folks, buy an F-150, pay a little more and be a lot happier until Ford decides the Ranger needs more development bucks. They do not seem to lose any focus on the F-150 and the gas mileage is not much different from your Ranger - at least not enough.

frey4 · February 2001

the huge slab-sided F 150. an f 150 won't even fit into my garage. bigger is not necessarily better. the ranger/ tacoma/ nissan size trucks are fantastic for those of us who like trucks but don't want vehicles with v-8's that give even MORE dismal mileage. also, i like th e turning radius of my nissan and ranger. my neighbor has a gorgeous F 150 Triton series extended cab automatic. a beautiful, high quality truck: his mileage ? overall is about 14 ! thoese ford v-8's are HORRENDOUS gas hogs. OUCH. he doesn't even use it to haul things. different strokes for different folks. if size is a factor, and bigger is better, why not go up to an f 250 or f 350 ?

scape2 · February 2001

the Duratec 3.0. This will answer your question as to why you don't find it in a Truck. This engine has to rev like crazy to get to its peak torque. Trucks need low end torque. The new SOHC 4.0 was pretty quiet when I test drove it.

dpbassett · February 2001

Hey I'm new to this posting so please bear with me...
I've got a 2000 XLT 3.0 4x4 automatic extended cab with the off-road package and about 9k miles, purchased new. I've got two problems, possibly related to each other.

First of all, there is a constant pinging noise above about 30 mph. It sounds similar to a washer being spun on a bolt. Seems as though it's coming from under the vehicle as opposed to the engine compartment.

Second problem is mileage. I just filled up tonight and got around 13.5 mpg, which is about what I normally get. I know, 13.5 is hard to believe, but I generally get about 230 miles to the tank if lucky. Pitiful. I don't have a lead foot and most miles are highway.

My question is this: What should the dealer be checking that they possibly are overlooking? I took it in around 3k and they didn't do a very thorough inspection, only took about 10 minutes before saying they "fixed it", which I discovered wasn't true as soon as I hit the highway. Could these two problems be related?

I'd really appreciate any suggestions from all of you. I know this is a great resource for these sorts of things, I just haven't been able to find an answer yet and I'm at wit's end. Thanks in advance!

david6 · February 2001

I have a 2001 Ranger xcab 2wd 4.0L auto. I have been getting a shade over 16 mpg city and 20 mpg highway. These are accurate numbers on tanks that were exclusively one or the other. I'm guessing that it will improve one mpg or so as the engine is broken in more, and perhaps even better when I put my cap on it. It hasn't dropped below 16 mpg.

The engine is very noisy. No doubt about that. I would also point out that with my set-up the ride is very hard, somewhat worse than an S-10 3.4L V6 I've driven periodically. Try to test drive the exact package you want and make sure you like it. I'm okay with mine, but I doubt I'll ever haul a big enough load for it to be worth it (at that point I have a 1-ton dump available). I got the 4.0L 2wd more for speed than payload.

Of course, thinking about it, I've gone over curbs and driven through rutted, messed-up building sites and was very happy to have the tough suspension then, not bottoming out.

Aside from the noise (there's plenty of wind noise, too, and some creaking in the doors that I hope to fix) and the occasionaly gripes about the ride, I'm very happy with the truck overall. I've shot across busy roads enough times to make any gas penalty of the 4.0L worth it.

Ford Ranger III

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