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The $500 conquest is still advertised in the NJ paper so i have to assume it is still valid today july 7th
Perhaps it was a regional promotion, I Am in the northeast
Call GM and ask them about it
So long as you owned a no gm at the time you should qualify
Either way the cobalt you have is a different world compared to the NEON you traded.
Even if you missed the $500 it was still more than worth it
Simply drive the cobalt and enjoy
You will certainly have less problems with the cobalt, it was well designed
Well within my budget and a good reliable car with a great warrenty. Maybe I could have etched another couple hundred off but I am happy with the price. And I was tired of looking at car dealerships. Edmunds says the invoice is about 12,450 so I didn't do to awful.
Jon
New Here, Can you tell me if their is any rebates for the Chevy Cobalt-how do I find out? Considering buyer a Cobalt but haven't decided to lease or the LT or LS. Haven't started negotiation yet.
Webbee
Webbee
2008 Cobalt LT Sedan with:
- Automatic Transmission
- ABS/Traction Control (Side Curtain airbags are now standard for 08)
- Cruise Control
- Remote Start
- Body side mouldings
The price details:
- MSRP 16885 (incl destination)
- Invoice 16192 (incl destination), minus the following:
- $1000 Rebate
- $500 Conquest Cash
- $1000 in additional dealer cash certificates on 08s ($250 certificates, use up to 4)
- $300 of dealer holdback
Final price: $13392 + 6% PA Sales Tax + Tags
I think this is pretty good for an 08, especially since it was at the beginning of the month and the car was not in stock - they did a locate to get a car in her preferred color (Imperial Blue) with the correct options. I got two other quotes and both were higher by at least $400 (and these dealer had the cars on the lots.)
The $1000 in dealer certificates was not publicly advertised - they brought it up when I mentioned I would be getting a few other quotes. The certificates were also not available on the 07s - only the 08s. If someone has GM Card points or qualifies for other discounts (military, etc), then they could make out even better.
Hope this info helps if there are any Cobalt shoppers out there...
Joel
The trade in issue in NY can be a topic for another thread! If I sold my car on my own, I don't get sales tax credit for it, but you do at the dealer. Gives the dealer an unfair advantage.
Oh well, those are the rules of the game.
MSRP - 17915, invoice - 17050
The deal was 550 off invoice, less 1,750 GM rebate, less 500 Conquest rebate for a net of 14,250.
There are still a few new 2007 models around, especially if you are willing to drive a little farther than you normally would. I negotiated this deal over the phone, subject to actually seeing and driving the car when we picked it up, so it wasn't too much of a hassle.
I do like the car. It handles well and is a lot of fun to drive. I haven't had a chance to drive it more than 40 miles in a single trip yet. I'm looking forward to driving it on a long weekend trip of 250+ miles (each way) when the weather improves.
I know this isn't exclusive to Cobalts, but I really like the XM radio that came with it. I am much more impressed than I thought I'd be.
I also like the mpg. A lot.
rebate $2000
discount $1210
selling price $11300
trade-in value $500
AirCheck voucher $3000
amount to finance $7800 + TT&L
I'm waiting on the title to this junker car to arrive so I can get this Cobalt. It qualifies for this AirCheck voucher here in Dallas/Fort Worth because it is more than 10 years old and has been continuously registered for the last 12 months. It also failed an emissions test which is why I'm looking to replace it. Of course I bought it specifically so it would fail so I could trade it in on a new or newer car and get this $3000 voucher.
If I had GM card rebates it'd be even cheaper. Edmunds TMV on the car is right around $12,100 so it's not a bad deal at all at $11,300. I also intend to have the dealer tint the windows nice and dark ($295) and I'm considering adding a center console armrest but haven't got a quote and was thinking of getting that from a junkyard anyway.
Compared to my best deal on a 2009 Corolla base 5-speed with the same equipment plus its standard ABS (AC, CD/MP3, 5-speed, no other options, which didn't impress me much more than this Cobalt at all) at $15,785, it's a real steal of a deal. I thought about a Yaris but I wouldn't be able to live with the gauge cluster in the center of the dash.
I still intend to shop the Nissan Versa and the Honda Fit before I commit to this Cobalt, but with the Auto Show coming, I expect Auto Show bonus cash at the Chevy dealer, taking another $500 or so off, and if I can, I may qualify for a college student rebate as well since I am a full-time student at TCC. I can't remember if that is $400 or $600 or even if it is still offered. I might be financing less than $7500 for a brand new car with less than a hundred miles on it if I do this right! The only used car I'm considering so far is a 2005 Taurus sedan with 60K on it for $5989, and it ALSO qualifies for the AirCheck voucher and the $500 for the Intrepid junker, so I'd be looking at $2489 plus TT&L for a 3-year old car with 60K miles and that also is NOT bad at all.
I'm not sure how people buy below invoice, I got my car at invoice price without any "advertisement" or other fees. First I looked on Internet for car with options I wanted (manual, ABS etc.), I used Autotrader.com and Chevrolet.com to "Find a Vehicle", then I call several deallers and asked them to sell those cars at invoice price without any fees. Some of them told me "no" right away, but couple agreed and sent me quote with invoice price (same as it was listed at Edmunds and kbb.com). So deal was:
2008 Cobalt LT coule, manual, Revolution package, Blue flash metallic paint with ralley stripes, Smocker's package - MSRP $16,660 (but because this car was deleavered to dealership in November old MSRP was $16,395)
Invoice price - $15,404.35
Cashback (exp. 3.3.2008) -$1000
President's day cash (exp. 2.28.2008) -$1000
Conquest bonus for non-GM owners (exp. 3.3.2008) -$500
PA and DE bonus in conjuction with auto-show (exp.2.28.2008) -$500
(all this bonuses are listed in Edmunds when you do "price with options", click on "available incentives")
Total price I got in quotes: 12,404.35
At time of purchase they subtracted $1,500 that I have for redemtion at my GM credit card.
Total amount from which I paid sales tax: 10,904.35
Tax: 654.26
Registration $ title: $55
Documentation (dealer fee): $157
Total amount paid: $11,770,61
Note: "LT" models have STANDARD: power windows, power locks, keyless entry, etc. It is not available in "LS" models.
When you buy used car from a dealer you loosing your bargaining power because every used car is unique, so you can not justify your price. When you buy new, all cars are the same, so you can pick yours from many deallers and make them compete for your purchase.
This was a very stripped down car, with no power windows or power locks and no cruise control. The only listed options were the auto tranny and the rear spoiler.
Sticker price was $15,530, including the destination charge, and Browning knocked off $374.40. This left the dealer with a margin of $300 over invoice, and, of course, he got his 3% "hold back." I was actually surprised that they knocked anything off sticker price, since the Cobalts were selling like hot cakes, and I was getting the last one in their inventory.
Sales tax was $677.18, license and registration was $52, and the dealer "document fee" was $199. (Why don't they just call that "document fee" something like "Get your hands up and let me take $200 out of your wallet just cause I can fee?")
A GM rebate of $2000 plus my GM Credit Card earnings of $1869.29 were applied, along with the $500 I was allowed for my 89 S-10 beater pickup with a salvage title that I traded-in with 219,6xx miles on it. (Plus I avoided paying an A/C repair bill in the dealer's service department by trading-in the truck. They were working on my S-10's A/C when I bought the Cobalt.)
I ended up financing only $11,714.49. Not a "killer" deal maybe, but a decent one, I think.
I think I will like this little car just fine, but I know I will miss cruise control when I am traveling. This is my first car with XM radio, and I think it will be hard to give up when the free three month subscription runs out. I might just have to sign up.
Tom
I really don't often take long trips, though. I can probably survive without cruise, but it's nice to know that I can have it without spending a fortune.
Tom
Cobalt LS Sedan with floor mats and side body molding:
MSRP: 15925
Dealer Discount: -1430
Rebate: -1500
GM Card earnings: -2159.58
Purchase Price: 10835.42
Of course I did not include the Tax and DMV cost plus the 67.50 dealer charges to the above price as it varies from state to state.
I don't know what to do.
I know some people advocate changing oil a little early since the manufacturer is trying to be a good corporate citizen by extending the change interval. I change early myself, but still go by the computer. Just do it when the computer indicates 25% life remaining.
BTW, the manual requires at least yearly changes if you are a very infrequent driver.
Numerous people on the Hyundai forum (with 100k powertrain and 60k bumper to bumper std. ) have paid $1000 or more for a 120k AFTERMARKET warranty (you fill in the paperwork and hope to be reimbursed from ACME co.) this is downright stupid. The fact they can work it into the financing for $20/mo makes it more saleable.
I purchased numerous cars in the 80's and early 90's with just 12mo bumper to bumper. Unbelieveable this was the standard for 20 (50?) years before. Reliability was also poor compared to now. (remember the good ol days?)
For cars (nissan, honda,ford etc) with 3/36 bb and 5/60k powertrain standard a bumper to bumper 8yr /120kmi bb extension for a cheap (under 20k) sedan should be around $800. For more expensive vehicles loaded with electric sliding doors, 4wd, navi, etc we're talking about $1200. For the Chevy one would expect about $500 or so. Much more than this and you should pass.
Many people get taken for $2000 or more for these in the dealer's finance office. Honda's warranty used to be offered online by several dealerships but I think they terminated the practice. I believe Honda's extended warranty is available until the 36k mile mark for $100 more than around time of purchase (under 6kmiles). Others may be similar.
Warranties can be shopped just as cars can by getting 10 or so dealers to compete end of month.(sales quotas). 20 or more bids could be solicited. Just email for the best price from the dealership and they may give you the finance officers email.(or just forward it to him)
Good luck
--jjf
Did you purchase a "extended warranty" when you bought your car. Is it realy worth it or it's more like a last minute gamble?
I don't know what to do
List $19,250, with $1500 rebate, paid $17,041 cash. Purchased at Hanks Chevy in Ozark, MO. Known the owner and family(taught sons who now run the dealership) for over 20 years. Easy to work with, and they threw in a couple of basketball tickets in our University's new arena.
All in all a good experience.
after $2000 in taxes, title, license, etc, and $1600 for an extended gm warranty (probably a poor choice on my part) i financed about$15,300 at 8.9% apr. I hope to refinance in another year after i have built up my credit.
feedback? how did i do?
To preserve the warranty, you should have the VERY minimal services required by the owner's manual performed and documented. All this means is, basically, during the first 100,000 miles, an oil and filter change according to the car's computer (usually between 5,000 and 10,000 miles) and a tire rotation and inspection every other oil change, plus an air filter change every 30,000 miles. Costs for the oil change should be about $40 at the dealer (or much less with coupons from the dealer, they will put you on their mailing list) and $100 for oil change plus tire rotation plus inspection. You should NOT be paying for "minor and major service" as recommended by the dealer at old-fashioned 7,500, 15,000 and 30,000 mile intervals - those $150-$300 services are mostly "snake oil" designed to make you feel like a good car owner.
The only upgrades over the owner's manual services MIGHT be:
1. Oil changes at the 50% remaining oil life point, instead of running the oil out the full indicated life, using the dealer provided oil OR going to the 5% remaining life point, BUT substituting full synthetic oil (Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum are my favorites) for conventional oil at your oil changes - just carry in a jug purchased at Walmart.
2. Brake fluid flush and change for about $120 every 30,000 miles or 3 years or brake pad replacement, whichever comes first. Brake fluid is the most neglected fluid change in cars, because there isn't a quick and easy machine that will automate the process, like on transmission fluid and radiator coolant changes. But brake fluid is actually the fluid MOST SUSCEPTIBLE to contamination and hence degradation in performance due to absorbing moisture from the air, which lowers its boil point and increases the risk of brake failure due to brake fluid "boiling" at the overheated caliper when driven in, say, mountain conditions.
3. Auto transmission fluid changes for about $100 every 30,000 miles, time doesn't matter.
4. Coolant changes at the first 50,000 miles then 30,000 miles after that.
Yeah, I know the owner's manual claims both the transmission fluid and coolant are long life items, but I would rather err on the side of caution since these fluid changes are cheap and easily done.
DO YOUR SERVICES AT THE DEALER. Do your repairs at a good independent shop that works on Chevy's. I know this sounds like the reverse of normal, but dealers have all the required washers, filters, fluids, while oil change shops and other independents often use "universal" fluids, or take other shortcuts, or strip drain pan bolts. On the other hand, many dealers send out (subcontract) their actual repairs (as opposed to high profit maintenance services) to independent garages anyway. Not always, but often. Independents can often do timing belt replacements (not required on our Cobalts, just an example) as well as the dealer but much cheaper.
And dealer receipts for warranty required services (the oil changes, tire rotations, and inspections) can really help if something major goes wrong. Supposedly Toyota refused to accept some third party oil change receipts during their sludge fiasco on grounds they weren't "real."
Good luck with your Cobalt, it will take good care of you if you take good care of it!
Previous owner was obviously a heavy smoker and, as you probably know, the car doesn't have any features to speak of ... but I don't care about those things. My husband in particular is actually very enthusiastic about the crank windows. Power windows in his old car stopped working long ago, and are $$$ to fix.
I was originally looking for a newer Cobalt or a Malibu, but couldn't resist this opportunity to save money. I admit, I am a little nervous to see how the reliability factor will pan out. I get the impression the Cobalt has been significantly improved each time. Only thing concerning me thus far is that the trunk is suddenly hard to physically open, like the key doesn't pop it or something. I've started using the trunk release instead.
Oh, and the fact that I'm not sure if it has the absorbing plastic that is supposed to be put in as an answer to lack of side airbags (recall). It sure doesn't look like it, and it's not listed on the carfax, but then, I don't know if it would be. I'm going to have to take it to a Chevy dealer for the recall plastic.
I was thinking of buying a Cobalt next year but It's the winter that scares me a bit cause we get lots of snow here to.
Also, the Cobalts that my dealer was selling are ALL $5000 off MSRP, they have a big selection of coupes,sedans, LS,LT, SS all available at the same discount dollars. The money off each car is the same which means the % discount will be all different. I am getting a manual tranny with very few options so the savings % is very high at 31% of MSRP.