Dodge Dakota Crew Cab - V

impy2 · July 2000

practice, practice,

ignore this post if it shows up. I am having problems posting messages.

impy2 · July 2000

Good news and bad news. I took a service rep for a ride today because when he took alone he could not hear the spark knock. (I know how to make it do it) The good news is that I could duplicate the problem for him and he did hear the spark knock and he also came to the conclusion that what I was hearing was spark knock. The bad news is that my computer is not setting any codes what so ever. He is going to make a couple of calls to the big wigs at chrysler and see what can be done and if there is a TSB for this problem. He told me that the spark knock I am hearing is not severe enough to cause damage, but it is bad enough not to ignor. This guy I took for a ride is not a "mechanic" he is a suit and tie service rep from Michigan and he knows his stuff. I found out that the 4.7 liter is NOT equipped with knock sensors. He believes my problem could be a vaccum leak. I just have to sit tight until I hear from him. He said they may replace my computer. He does not want to reset it because the problem may arise again. Like I said I did not develop this problem until the 2000 mile mark. I have 3000 miles on it now. Anyone with a 5-speed 4.7 liter please try this and let me know what you hear. roll up all of the windows and turn the radio off. Let the engine get to its normal operating temperature. I hear it best on a hot day. for best results put it in 3rd gear, get the RPM's to 2500 and punch it!!! let it go to about 4000. Up a hill is prefered. Listen close for spark knock. It is tough to hear if the conditions are not right. thank you. They are going to let me try to duplicate the problem on another truck on the lot. (5-speed 4.7 liter) next week. I hope it pings like crazy, then I will not feel inferior. Thank you.

ozark · July 2000

The Quad is still doing great (within 500 miles of 15,000 mile oil change). We have left the humid south for a few weeks stay in Northern New Mexico and Colorado. Am posting from a nephew's machine in Denver but getting ready to head up to the mountains tomorrow to do some fishing.

I have seen a lot of F-150 Supercrews on the road but not too many Quads. At a campground in Albuquerque the guy in the next cabin had a Supercrew so we swapped stories. He couldn't believe I got my 4x4 for what his two wheel drive cost.

themacguy (a little off topic) Next time you are in Sante Fe drive up to Chimayo and next to the old church there is a place that sell flavored tortillas and the best chilli relleno burritos in the state. The place is called Leona's.

steve234 · July 2000

I just saw the most interesting thing. According to JD Powers, the 4th highest ranked manufacturer in quality is Daewoo. Toyota, Dodge, Ford and Nissan among others were rated below average. This is why I do not have much trust in what I read anymore. Obliviously, something is being left out of the published facts.

bookitty · July 2000

Ferous, I have rocks in my garden that I remember when they were still loose soil. Does that give you some insight?

Bookitty

bpeebles · July 2000

Welcome to the REAL world of marketing. MOST of the "awards" , "ratings" and such can be traced to MONEY flowing from the manufacturer to the "award-giver".

I KNOW that "Consumer Digest" is in this category (As opposed to "Consumer Reports" that DOES NOT ACCEPT ANYTHING from the manufactures.)
Do you know where this JDPowers gets its income from?

As many engineers will tell you.... A given set of data can be made to show ANYTHING you wish. It is all in how you graph it.

I learned this lesson very well thru a popular TV-rating firm. They asked my family to participate in their rating system by keeping a log near the TV.... Once they learned that my family did not watch the shows they they wanted to 'promote' they simply stopped accepting our inputs every week.

bpeebles · July 2000

Question?...

When you hear an automobile is best 'in its class'...Who defines what the 'class' is?

Wait a minuite... lets pick one ourselves;

A- Size
B- Weight
C- Color
D- Wheelbase
E- Fuel-capacity
F- Brand
G- _______________(Fill in your own)
H- All of the above

themacguy · July 2000

statistics.

dakotahell · July 2000

Refer to post 576 on Dakota Crew Cab IV for specifics of problems.

I am finally happy (I think) with my 4WD Dakota Sport. Just wanted to give an update of my post outlining the problems and dealership [non-permissible content removed] I was going through. I drove my Dakota 400 miles to another state/dealership. On the way it developed a "howl" in the rearend above 50 mph to go along with the other problems described in post 576.

I took the Dakota to an independent shop in SE Idaho, (Steve's Repair Inc.) and had them do a diagnosis and estimate. While the rearend was still torn apart, the manager called the local Dodge dealer and had the Service Manager and the Shop Foreman come by during lunch to have a look at what they found. The Dodge Service Manager was very dismayed at the work that had been performed by the Colorado Dealership. Here is what was found and what the Ron Sayer Dealership fixed for me.....All of these guys were great. Keep in mind this rearend had been overhauled not even a month ago.

Rear Diff was set up incorrectly and had 18/1000 backlash. Should be 7/1000s.

Pinion Bearings preload was too tight.

Side Bearing Adjusters were cross threaded.

Side gears were loose on axle.

Fuel pump went out on them while they were testing it.

The whole rearend was replaced minus the axles. The new sidegears tightened up the fit just fine.

It was thier opinions (both Steve's Repair and Ron Sayer Dodge) that many of the parts that the Colorado Dealership said were replaced were never replaced at all, but just tweaked, and tweaked VERY incorrectly.

The differences:

The howling is gone.
The clunking in forward gears is gone.
The clunking in reverse is still present but very acceptable compared to what it was.
Gas mileage was improved by 3.5 mpg.

Whew, hope that is it and I can learn to trust my dakota now....gotta cancel that extended Chrysler service contract now. I was advised to never take a vehicle back to my local dealership given what they did the rearend of my Dakota.

Happy ending so far.

steve234 · July 2000

I have said it many a times in the past, if you are not satified with the resolution of a problem with a new vehicle, you probably need a new dealer. You should write a letter to DC detailing what the original dealer did wrong to your vehicle and maybe praise the dealer that did fix your problem. Let them know the facts.

cowtownaggie · July 2000

Hi All,

Hope someone can help. I am looking for a oil pan drain valve to fit my 4.7L. I have seen / gone to the fumoto site (www.fumotovalve.com) & they have a pretty good one (like their warranty also). However I am looking for other options / different types. Does anyone know where I can find them?

Also, does anyone know what size, pitch, etc. the drain plug in the 4.7 is? I could not find it in the Big Orange Book.

Thanx for the help

PDS

jumpmstr · July 2000

The surveys are good except for two things. They only look for problems in the first 90 days (I know, I know initial quality) and problems are not ranked. Minor problems get the same rank as major problems. A broken cupholder or jiggling glovebox has the same weight as a blown transmission. So, if the transmission falls out of 10% of model A and 25% of the cupholders break in model B, then according to J.D. Powers, model A has a higher initial quality. Moral of the story, never expect an objective opinion from someone getting a piece of the action. This is just my understanding on how the J.D. Power survey works. Enlighten me guys if I'm wrong.

Disclaimer: Been wrong in the past, will be wrong again in the future, but I learn something everyday.

Menchar · July 2000

I am considering the Dakota CC Sport, but it sure looks like you can't put air on it. Edmunds options list shows air conditioning bypass required for a sport package, and bypass means no air conditioning! Air included in SLT, but that means all of that chrome must be there too.

Thanks.

qc2001 · July 2000

i have never looked at the sport list, because i like the little extra sound dampening and such of the SLT. i would consider this a mistake by edmunds, and check it out with your dodge web site MSRP pricing and make sure that it allows you to add AC, but i will surely guarantee that you can.

Evan

victx · July 2000

You can get a sport with AC, I am ordering a 2001 that way. If you get the sport package you have to add AC, the SLT package includes AC.

themacguy · July 2000

until mine arrived and I asked my salesperson to literally walk out to the transport and tell me if it had a/c or not while I waited on the phone 300 miles away! She came back on and said it did, so I committed - rather 'cautiously.' But didn't sign or promise anything until I saw it for myself.

I work with data constantly; computer generated and paper. I could not for the life of me figure out how they put that on their order sheets. NO ONE to date at D/C has been able too either. BUT, I believe you'd have to physically write down that you DIDN'T want a/c to not get it. %-)

mcnekev · July 2000

Like many of you here, I am having the same problem with my 99 club cab with the 3.9 V6. I have been round and round with Chrysler about this and just started the arbitration process. It seems that the problem is in both the V6 and V8 engines. What is happening is the timing on the computer is not working out just right. There has been a software release for the V6 but that is all I have heard. I was the first to get the software from my dealership and I can say that it still does not "fix" the problem.

What happens is whenever there is a knock the timing will be retarded by a 2 degree interval. Basically you loose 3 to 5 HP per retard. So far, in one driving I have lost between 18 and 30 HP and boy can you tell a difference. I thought I was driving a 4 cylinder!!!!! And this is the only solution. Supposedly the timing gets reset back to the standard setting when you next turn over the engine. So basically, they are temporarily hiding the problem by taking away HP. If you are having this problem as well, start asking about the software upgrade released from National Customer Service. Also give serious consideration to Arbitration because the problem does not and will not go away!

pirat · July 2000

Hi happy Dakota owners!
I have 4.7 auto 4X4. I've got 12.500 miles on it and it makes 15 miles/gal. I've not have any serious problems so far, knock on wood, besides thinks we all know like ticking, hard shifting from time to time etc. I try to do all service by myself, because I believe cars/ trucks run well as long as they don't see mechanics. I change oil every 3000 miles. Now I would like to change transmission fluid. This fancy transmission has no drain plug, at least I can't find it. Does it mean that you have to get soaked in fluid by removing the whole pan. I've also checked the level of fluid and it's way too high. Maybe I don't know how to check fluid, but it shouldn't be a brain surgery. The stick is wet like an inch above upper hole. They say do not overfill. When I brought the truck home when it was new, the engine oil level was to high as well. I guess they simply don't care. If trucks leave factory like that how they supposed to run well. I would appreciate if someone could respond to my post, especially if someone knows how to change transmission fluid. By the way, why manual doesn't say capacities of transmission, brake system etc. They tell you what needs to be done and list all the steps, but they don't give you enough info so you can really do it. Maybe they assume nobody is doing those things anymore and we read manuals for fun. Thanks for attention!

steve234 · July 2000

There may be exceptions, but most automatics did not have required maintenance until recently. Since the pan has to come off to replace the filter, the incentive to provide a drain hole is not great for any manufacturer. With the potential for mishaps with the valve body exposed, most manufacturers do not want transmission work done by owners. It is rare enough to find any mechanic that is competent to work on transmissions and letting joe blow do it himself is scary to them. In the future, there will probably be a move to install external oil filters and drain plugs, but we are not there yet.
On the oil level, if you do not follow all the instructions, it will read high. Make sure you are on level ground with the engine warmed up, parking brake on and the transmission in neutral. If all that is in effect when you checked, then take it back to the dealer and have them siphon the excess out or give you a good explaination for the situation. I would also have them check the dipstick PN. It is not unheard of, when several different models go by,that someone accidently grabs the wrong dipstick from the bin.

bja4 · July 2000

Does DC still offer the Sport/Plus package. I know they did for 2000 models. This Sport/Plus package was discounted and comes with the AC, fog lights, interior overhead lights, engine light, tire and handling package, and 31" tires.

rassom1 · July 2000

Has anyone seen any pictures of the 2001 Dakota's?
There rolling off the assembly line but have not seen any pictures yet.

Surely there must be some pictures out there.

badassbob · July 2000

I havent seen any pictures either....Im curios about the "new" front fascia and Wheel Styling..

chad

impy2 · July 2000

I got the chance to drive a Quad Cab with a 5.9 liter V8. I did not realize how powerful my 4.7 liter was until I drove the 5.9 liter. I am not sure if it was because the quad is heavier than my club cab, but the 4.7 liter felt just as powerful as the 5.9 liter. The 5.9 liter felt like it had more "brute" towing power out of the hole, but for the difference in cubic inch I would have to say that the 4.7 packs a better punch. By the way, how come the 5.9 liter cannot be matched with a 5-speed? You cannot get the 5-speed with a 5.9 liter in anything unless you buy a 2500 Ram. That means it is not a matter of matching up the engine with the tranny. Any ideas on why it is available on the 2500 Ram but not on the 1500 or the Dakota? And why can't they make a 4x4 Dakota club cab with a 5.9 liter? A 5.9 liter Dakota with a 5 speed would be great!!!!! Talk to you guys later.

bpeebles · July 2000

This seems like a great opportunity for me to expose my observations.

When I took delivery of my 4.7L Dakota, the Oil level seemed WAY too high on the dipstick when measured using 'normal' methods.... (Let sit for a while to allow oil to collect in pan)
However
When I checked the oil level immediately after driving, it was spot-on where expected on the dipstick.

Another complication came at my 1'st oil change when after putting 5 quarts in the crankcase, the level on the dipstick seemed just fine. The dealer REFUSED to put the 6'th quart into the engine and declared that the owners-manual and service-manual (BOB) were both WRONG These documents indicate that the 4.7L holds 6quarts of motor oil)

FOr those of you that have changed their own oil int the 4.7L....How many quarts do you use?

pirat · July 2000

When I change the oil I always pour 5 quarts and the level is perfect. Either the manual is wrong or so much oil stays in the engine. I visited my dealer about high trans. fluid level and he said that he would have to drain and refill. This way I will have fluid changed for free. I'll just pay for new filter and gasket.

impy2 · July 2000

I just changed my oil. (myself) I have the 4.7 liter. I used 6 quarts of castrol 5W30 and a mopar filter. (the one recommended). I started it up and let it run for 5 minutes so I could check for leaks around the new filter. On flat ground after sitting for 5 minutes the oil level was exactly on the "full" mark. Remember that if you use a different size filter this will dictate how much more or less oil you will need to use. Stick with the original filter and you will not have to guess. Or if you use another filter, compare it to the original and see if they are the same volume. I ran into this problem with my grand am. The owners manual says 4.5 quarts. I used a smaller high performance fast flow filter made by amsoil. It only took 4 quarts. this filter was small!!!!

impy2 · July 2000

look at post #130. I also let the oil drain for 2 hours. (first oil change.....wanted to make sure all the oil was out) If you do not let all the oil drain out, there still may be 1/2 quart left in the engine. The 6 quart capacity is assuming that NO oil is left behind on the interenal parts or in the valve train. A good 2 hour drain will assure that 99% of the old oil is out. I am not crazy about these "quick lube" places. They claim that they can change oil in 10 minutes or less, but they end up leaving old oil in the engine just by simply not letting the oil drain long enough. I like to change my own oil. It gives me a chance to look over the under carriage while the oil is draining. I may sound a little crazy about the draining process, but a good oil change is the most IMPORTANT part of preventive maintenance. Oil is life of the engine.

bja4 · July 2000

I used 6 qts of oil with oil filter change. I let it drain for a hour. I never checked the dip-stick when done. I figured some oil was left in the oil containers when filling back up. I don't like the oil drain plug. The plug should point straight down; not at some 45 degree angle (stupid design). The oil filter is in a little better place for servicing than the old 92 Dakota(still a pain and messy).

playhard_50 · July 2000

Recently purchased a Dakota CC 2WD with the 4.7 V8. Mileage for the first tank of gas was just under 13 and seems to be even lower on the second (I've got just under 500 miles on the truck and the driving is pretty much 1/2 highway, 1/2 local). This mileage seems pretty low compared to some of the other postings on this board.

I've been adding Marvel Mystery Oil during break in, and will continue to do so until the oil is gone (another two tanks or so). For those who have used M.M.O. during break in, did you notice any difference in mileage after you switched back to straight gasoline?

Thanks.

resqman · July 2000

I ran five or six tanks with MMO. Mpg has come up 1-3 mpg since I stopped using mmo.

bpeebles · July 2000

(impy2)&(bja4)
You both mention somthing I had not considerd. The fancy oiling system with the hollow camshafts and all must hold some amount of oil. This accounts for the apparent 5-quart capacity.

It would be a poor design indeed if this was allowed to drain into the pan while not running.Repeated dry start-up conditions for several seconds means early death to an engine.
Studies have shown that most engine wear occours during cold startup/warmup.... engines that run for long periods at a time have very little wear. IE....Crude-oil pumping stations, Ships, taxiis, ...etc

bpmanning · July 2000

Does anyone know if it is possible to replace the 5x7 power mirros with the 6x9 power mirrors? Or do you think it would be to cost effective? I have the smaller ones and think that I may want the larger ones. The only option my new truck didn't have that I would have liked to have. I haul a 16ft Lund pro-sport boat and would like to have a little bit more visability. Any comments would be appreciated. thanks.

resqman · July 2000

I wanted the 6x9 when I bought mine. Bought one off the lot with the 5x7. Called the parts department. The 6x9 run about $140 for the pair. Dealer installation would run about $150. $300 for mirrors. I don't trailer anything so I could not justify the cost.

You might be able to sell the 5x7 on ebay or other web sites to recoup some of the cost.

jcody1 · July 2000

They are a since to install. Simply pull of the door panels and the mounting studs/nuts are right there. The electrical harness simply unplugs. When you pull the door panel off there is no need to unplug the harnesses from the planel. Just let it (carefully) hang while you switch the mirrors. I had to replace one of the mirrors on my 98 club cab Dakaota.

bigal31 · July 2000

Let oil drain,FIGHT with the filter as to not make a mess(ya right) by that time oil should be all empty..Put Mobil 1 synthetic 5-30W,6 quarts with Mobil 1 filter(#M1-204).No problems all is well..This is the end of my report.
Allen-

Menchar · July 2000

Are any of you tall people? I am 6'4" and 230 lbs, I wonder if anyone of these dimensions has driven the CC for any length of time. I could go sit in one at a dealer lot (and I'll do so) but that's not the same as living with the vehicle. Another aspect to fitting into the CC is the tilt steering wheel column. Looks like you can't get one on the Sport - only on the SLT. Seems like you can get pretty much everything else in the sport as is on the SLT (including air), save for some insulation.

Thanks for any info/advice.

ohc_baby · July 2000

I've got two tall friends with Dakotas and they love it. I'm 6'2" and have a 2001 on the way. You can get the tilt/cruise with the sport as the Deluxe Convenience Group (code AJK). Every SLT option is available for the Sport with little price difference, except for the extra insulation under the hood and footwells that the SLTs get.

mailman54 · July 2000

I am 6'6" 200 lbs and have a 2000 Dakota Regular Cab, not even the Club or Crew Cab. I have plenty of head room, but leg room is a little snug. I tilt back the seat slightly and it works fine. I can't imagine not having enough room in the Club or Crew Cab Dakota.

Mailman

tiltboy · July 2000

I would try and find one with a power seat if I were you. You can tweak it alot of different directions and customize your fit. Hope that helps.

samg42 · July 2000

for those who are interested. Owners-Quad Cab 177 lists the first 01 sighting

resqman · July 2000

I got a '00 Quad cab. I'm 6'1" and 225lbs and I am a little disappointed with the head room. There is a reinforcing bar in the roof which causes a dip in the head liner of at least an inch. That is just wear my head reaches the ceiling. I find that what is left of my hair brushes the headliner.

I have the power bucket seats. I find that I have to recline the back of the seat with the power seat in the full down position to keep off the headliner. The headrest is definitely not. The top of the head rest comes to the base of my skull. Perfect position to snap my neck in a wreck.

Plenty of length for the legroom. Thigh room is a little tight. I think the thigh room is mostly the design of the bucket seat since the sides come up high on the seat portion.

I have taken my Quad on 3 road trips since July 4.
1000 mile round trip, 1800 mile round trip, and 500 miles Saturday. I begin to feel achy between my shoulder blades after about 250 miles. This is problably due to the reclining of the bucket seat and holding the wheel with one hand.

Like the vehicle for round town. Family enjoys the vehicle. I really love the four doors.

bud2you_50 · August 2000

Hi, Do the new headers do they still give you that loud roaring noise or have they become "tamer". If not, do they make a pipe or something that you can lower the sound so you don't keep getting pulled over by the police for exessive noise..expesially when you actually step on it?

impy2 · August 2000

To make a long story short, my 2000 Dakota 4.7 liter has been experiencing heavy spark knock ("pinging") between 2700 and 4000 RPM's. The dealer has ruled out EGR valve and the computer has not set any trouble codes. If I run 93 octane fuel I get NO spark knock at all, the truck performs better, and gets better fuel mileage......BUT.....The owners manual says not to use premium fuel. (the reason is because the additives in premium fuel can harm the fuel injectors over a period of time.) My dilema is that should I run premium fuel until they find a fix or should I stick with 87 octane and just let the engine "ping" like hell? The dealer believes that my problem lies within the computer. The computer is divided up into several cells. Each cell is responsible for different throttle positions. The cell that controls the throttle from 2700 to 4000 RPM's must have a defect in it. I get NO spark knock using 87 octane above 4000 and below 2700 RPM's. The dealer said that replacing the computer will do no good unless they can find one with a matching ECM code. I have no clue what that means. I am very disapointed in the way that Chrysler is handling my problem. They are basically saying they cannot fix problem unless the computer sets a trouble code. I have been back and forth to my service dept. and I get the same answer. Will they replace the truck if I can prove that there is no fix for my problem? By the way, I had a Grand Am with a Quad-4 engine. The owners manual said not to use premium. I used premium anyway because of light spark knock. I put 80,000 miles on the vehicle before I traded it. The premium fuel never changed the performance the of the car....only for the better. How long does it take for these additives to harm the injectors?

themacguy · August 2000

I'd say go to (or call) a nearby dealer that you haven't been to yet, and ask them for the zone rep's name and number. Explain to them that you're NOT one of their customers, you just didn't want to get into a hassle at YOUR dealer. Get the guy to go to lunch with you in YOUR truck, let him look at your paperwork (or give him copies) and get this process working from the TOP DOWN. If he's a stick in the mud, let him know that you're going to take this to arbitration or worse, turn it in as a lemon (under your state law, whatever it is). Chances are good however, that he'll help you out just fine. I've done this with both GM and Ford, with good results both times. Hope it helps.

impy2 · August 2000

Let me start by saying that the owners manual says to use 87 octane only in the 4.7 liter V8. The reason is because over time, premium fuel (92 or 93 octane) can harm the fuel injectors due to additives in premium fuel. Mopar makes a high performance PCM for the 4.7 liter. My understanding is that the WHOLE computer is replaced and not just a chip. This high performance PCM is supposed to add 15 to 18 HP and requires the use of PREMIUM fuel. This makes no sense. When the PCM is installed I assume the injectors are not changed. My question is why would mopar say that premium fuel is harmful to the injectors and then turn around and require the use of premium for the high performance PCM. Premium fuel is premium fuel no matter what is done to the PCM. I hope everyone followed me on that. The reason I say this, is because I am forced to use premium fuel (I have the factory PCM) because the use of 87 or 89 gives me heavy spark knock under load. I get NONE at all when using premium and the trucks performs better. Chrysler is still scratching their head trying to figure out why I get heavy spark knock, and told me to use premium for the time being until they find a fix. I should tell them I want a certified check for the price difference between the cost of 87 and 93 octanes over the time period until they find a fix. I pay 20 cents more per gallon using premium. This adds up over time!!! This amounts to $4.00 more at each fill up (using a 20 gallon fill up) I am keeping track just in case and have all my receipts.

iowabigguy · August 2000

When I took delivery of my Quad there was a small tag on the cigarette lighter. I don't have it any more for an exact quote. What I recall it saying was mileage should improve after several thousand mile and you should use 87 octane UNLESS you are towing or hauling a heavy load. I think someone is feeding you bull about the additives causing damage over time to the injectors. I have been told and have read that one of the purposes of the additives was to clean the injectors.
One interesting note, When I was researching extended warranties the main reason I did not select the DC extended warranty was it specifically excluded injectors on the gas engines. Rick

themacguy · August 2000

The higher lead content of 'avgas' hurts special type spark plugs, but back to reality some of the added stuff in the unleaded premium blends DO help to clean the injectors; not hurt them. As for the seals, that may be another matter, as certain additives might be messing with the O-rings or something. That may be an issue. Whatever. Surely different O-rings would fix any issue there.

As far as the computer goes - so go the high end chips, as well - it/they require premium due to their remapped torque/hp curve & advanced ignition settings. Keep up with your expenses, monitor your daily mpg & watch your temperature readings. All may be of some importance sooner than you think.

Getting them to pony up their Holy Grail - a replacement PCM - is going to take some doing. ALL of the auto manufacturers use them and ALL of the snobs think theirs NEVER fail. Porsche started using them in the 83 944 and 84 911 models & up (I've had several of each) and I never met a mechanic who saw an ECM (their PCM) fail that could easily get the manager to replace it, under warranty or not. They would do everything short of rebuilding the block to avoid replacing one. I just started buying them from a 'parter' out in Arizona - to heck with Porsche and their sanctimonious crap - and fixed every computer problem I ever had from the start for a couple of hundred bucks in an hour or so. So stay on em!

troch · August 2000

I was looking for a more aggressive sound and at the same time increase the power. Any comments on Gibson vs. Flowmaster vs. others?

Thanks,

Mark

Oh, I was originally thinking split rear, but seeing that Gibson doesn't recommend towing with it, I'll probably go with the swept side.

towcrazy2 · August 2000

A quick aside...

GOOD to be back on a forum that's more hands-on/technically oriented!!! After a lapse in time, I went to the owners club only to find lot's of good stuff about '01 styling changes, etc., but very little about the mechanics of these unique trucks.

For what it's worth... My '00 Quad 4X4 has the 5.9 and 3.55 RA. After much research, pricing, etc., I ordered the Borla cat-back "package," which includes a K&N air filter... Should be here by the weekend, and I plan to do the install myself.

Chose Borla partly because of reputation, partly because of anticipated performance/fuel economy gains and partly because of stainless steel construction (versus "aluminized" steel).

The Quad Cab package was $425 plus shipping ($460 at the doorstep in Michigan), and was back-ordered from CA for about a week.

I've been keeping a close eye on mileage, and will be anxious to note any gains once the new system is installed. However, I understand that the computer requires approx. 100-200 miles to "adapt" to the free-breathing intake/exhaust.

Will keep any & all posted on the install and results if there's an interest.

HEY!!! Anyone install a roof rack on their Quad yet!!?? I'm desparately seeking experiences/insights!!!

towcrazy2 · August 2000

TROCH - I, too, went with the conventiional side outlet versus duals... As the handle hints, I'm concerned with towing.

If you haven't already, you might want to check out Borla's website... If you're interested in the sound, there are some sample audios.

Dodge Dakota Crew Cab - V

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